actually no, to find out what exactly the problem is it would help a lot if you would use only 2 sticks first and then try to get them working right, and then add in the other 2 sticks. i saw tony convinced you to try 2 sticks first and it seems to work at stock speed now?
tinus, i know... i never said there wont be any corrosion, but knowing so much about it, you must know that corrosion always happens, even if you only use copperthere will be corrosion, but from what ive heard and experienced myself, its so few it really isnt that big a deal unless you use the loop for 5 years or more, and even then its unlikely it will corrode so much that itll leak.
nice, thanks for the headsup!
ill check if i can find somebody who can supply us with it...
heheheh yes
basically, even if you use copper only, you should use an additive to slow down corrosion, it should keep the water clear and nice to look at and the mixes usually kill off bacteria and algae as well and prevent a minature cycle of evolution to form in your watercooling loop ^^
thanks for the headsup!
we didnt go for acryllic tops since machining them would cost too much iirc, but its kinda weird... i wouldnt expect cnc prices in asia to be high at all....
we will continue to work on that and will try to get other tops
hmmmm let me check and get back to you, if i forget to pm you send me a pm as a reminder, thx
yeah... the difficult thing is finding the balance of spending all your resources on making it a plug and play board so even our wifes/girlfriends could configure itand actually adding nice new features like clock dll and gtl options which are not easy to master, but are a big part of what ultimately differentiates this board from a normal mainstream board...
sure we could make it a plug and play board anybody can configure within a few minutes, but then who would be willing to spend so much money on it if it doesnt have all the advanced options in bios?
hmmmm so 1:4 400 defaulting to 2t should get the strap working fine then?
its really weird that you have several kits that cant run 1t though...
from my experience its very seldom that a kit cant run 1t.... hmmm
hmmmm are you sure its a 2t thing? so as soon as you manually set 2t the memory does work stable?
i suspect its an advanced timing thing... corsair is known for tweaking their spds well, so they probably set some good subtimings through the spd, while the other kits dont have such a fine tuned spd and the bios might set too tight subtimings by default.
yes, but then again i dont think we should try to make everything plug and playable, i will try to churn out some guides so unexperienced users can get a rough idea what timings to use and maybe copy paste some basic timing and option presets, and work on a list of tested and known to be working memory
thanks again for taking your time to post some useful feedback!
telo, about corrosion, exactly what i experienced and was told, there is always corrosion if you dont use an additive, and yes, alu and copper mixes corrode faster than copper copper or alu alu mixes, but the difference is tiny.
when you actually see corrosion, then thats just a layer on the surface of the metal which is a few atoms thick... and once you have this layer of oxidized and corroded atoms on top of the base of the metal, the corosion slows down big time, since there is no longer a direct contact between the metal bases and the water and lose metal atoms and oxigen atoms floating in it...
the corrosion will only be a problem if you use a waterblock that is very restrictive at one point and a very powerfull pump, so the flow speed is extremely high at one point, constantly wearing off layer after layer of corroded atoms and then eat itself into the metal base.
but even if this happens, think about it... how thick are the waterblocks at the spots the flow speed is extremely high? the thinnest parts, some fins, are probably 1mm thick or more... itll take months if not years to corrode them away. at least from what ive been told from my physics teacher and several wb gear mfgs.
hmmm culd just be an older 8500, the initial wolfdales needed quite high vcore to reach 4ghz
4ghz with 1.2v is really nice... the best ive seen is 1.1v iirc... and thats a really really sweet cpu
GTFouts, so during post you see the actual cpu speed as it should be, and the multi of 9.5, but in windows it drops back to 9x, right?
what setting do you use in the windows power management panel?
what happens if you increase the multi in windows using aegis panel?
when you use a low multi and the 1333 memory divider and push up the fsb in windows using aegis panel bit by bit, what happens? how high can you get the memory?
sashin, you cant install windows even at stock speed?
did you load optimized defaults and tried again?
what temps is your cpu at? could you try a different hdd?
can you try using only one stick of memory and see if that works?
what settings did you run the cpu and memory with initially that worked and then started to get more and more unstable?
Chris_redfield, could you please post your bios settings in detail? thanks!
ask lardarse... im not sure what exactly he and the engineers did in g27
hmmmmm let me check it to be sure, but im pretty certain its reading the options wrong...
what version of the panel are you using?




there will be corrosion, but from what ive heard and experienced myself, its so few it really isnt that big a deal unless you use the loop for 5 years or more, and even then its unlikely it will corrode so much that itll leak.

Just use a corrosion inhibitor, and it should be fine for a lifetime of the motherboard, I assume.





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