It just means that I feel that it is not really reasonable... but very tempting at the same time![]()
It just means that I feel that it is not really reasonable... but very tempting at the same time![]()
Thanks for the comments Guys.
I agree, internal is hella more convenient but it's just not going to work into this design. My hope is that the result will be worth the inconvenience.
Yes, I used the 1/4" Flexo PET on FC's build. As dualbrain say's, there's a superior product available which I assume he's told you how to get. This is his discovery so I'm not going to comment further.
No.![]()
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No worries!
Something tells me you have a few new PMs.
As FC said; murderMod will be available as a complete modded TJ07 or you can choose the parts you like and use your own case.
Reason has never resulted in anything exciting for me while temptation, well, that's a different story.![]()
Really nice man, as soon as i get enough cash for my water calling build, I can look up to this as I have a TJ07 =)
That's right
Well, I have two more questions.
I read the thread again but could not find anything about the precise kind of tape you used to attach the window. Have I missed anything, and if not, would you share this secret with us?
I have the same question concerning the stuff you used to remove the Silverstone logo, have you asked your friend if it was available as a consumer product?
Last edited by -Gab; 07-13-2008 at 02:54 AM.
Yes, but we have 14 days![]()
Thanks for the comments Guys.
For the window adhesive, there are lots of products that do the job nicely. 3M make a variety of thin, two sided tape that stick like sh|t to a blanket.
As for the logo removal; I forgot that I only responded to Evil by PM regarding that. I asked my dude and he didn't tell me if its avaiable as a consumer product, but he did tell me that the active component is HIGHLY hazardous to not only your health, but the health of your future offspring. Needless to say, I was horrified. The bottom line is that I'm actively looking for a solution that is a lot less toxic. Removing Silverstone logos isn't worth dying for - or producing children with gills.![]()
The air comes in through the side with the PA120.3 (right side) assisted by two fans attached to the inside of the rad - pulling. An inch or so away is the PA120.2 which has two fans on the outside (left side) - pulling through the rad and out. What FC chooses to do with the warm air at this point is up to him.
w3rd.
You'll be fine with the Flexo PET.![]()
Anyone know if Silverstone sells replacement parts for the tj07 ?
I received my Techflex today, it looks real nice, can't wait to start building!!
But I'm still waiting for a lot of parts, and I gotta find some nice paint!! I don't wanna have it powdercoated, as I'll have to paint some plastic parts, too, and I'm afraid of not getting the same "color"...
Should I use my airbrush-pistol for painting?? I'm a bit unsure, haven't worked with that thing for ages...![]()
amazing work man.. and craftsmanshipp..
Er... another question here!
I was wondering whether the front USB header shown here:
... could be replaced by any 3/5" unit, like this one: http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/...ack::7110.html ?
Actually, there seems to be a few Murderbox admirers here in France... oh, and of MDPC too![]()
Last edited by -Gab; 07-15-2008 at 04:18 PM.
Hey Charles if your still around i think you should look at this:
I was busy drooling at your wallpapers of this lovely build when i noticed something out of the ordinary.
The inlet and outlet of the Fusion are backwards. If i'm not mistaken, the loop order is res > pump > rad > CPU > GPU > GPU > res ?
If that's the case then your pumping liquid into the outlet of the CPU block, which shouldn't be encouraged. The other option is that the loop goes GPU > GPU > CPU > pump > rad > res > GPU ..., but i don't think you'd make the mistake of trying to pump through the res backwards!?
If i'm missing something don't hesitate to ease my mind!
Here's a relevant pic:
XS WCG Rules: #1: don't pull fart_plume's finger #2: Dave aka Movieman, don't give him your phone number if you like your hearing
XS WCG Note: There are 2 sets of points, WCG and Boinc. WCG = 7x Boinc
Project: Dark Matter (<- link) - Asus Maximus II Formula, Intel X3330 3.4ghz @1.32v under load, corsair ddr2 1066 8gigs, evga gtx260 core 216, pc p&c 750W, EK Supreme HF Nickel, iandh 175 res, Swiftech MCP355, Black Ice GTX G2 240, Lian Li v1200b
silverstone tj07 build log
Thanks for the comments Guys.
Not that I'm aware of but I've only inquired about side panels. The side panels are all slightly unique - sometimes a set will fit more than one case, sometimes not. Something to do with the case "U" design i reckon.
Good stuff Bro, looking forward to your work log.
I don't know what to say about airbrushing since I don't do it. I'm a huge fan of powder coating as you can imagine. If you paint the plastic parts 1st you can then take them to a powder coater for reference and they can most likely match them pretty closely.
I'd first like to say that France is at the top of my list for places I plan to visit before I kick the bucket.
As Dragon says, that unit fits no problem.
I'm still around.
The loop is: pump > cpu > gpu1 > gpu2 > res > rad1 > rad2 > pump
The reason I chose to reverse the in/outs of the Fuzion was to keep the hoses from crossing each other as they entered/exited the block. As we all know, the barbs on the Fuzion are so freakin' close together, its a challenge to get clamps of any kind on. Now try to imagine sleeving and heat shrink as well... When I attempted to go into the "in" fitting, the hoses were practically on top of each other - especially when then going up to the 1st gpu. Because of the "U" elbows I needed coming off the top gpu, I wanted to come off the right barb which meant going into the right barb of the 1st gpu. The problem is that the Fuzion "in" barb is in the center of the block while the "out" is off to the side and I couldn't get the thing to work without having the two hoses cross each other - which looked crappy. I tried a number of variations and the solution I was happy with was what you see now. It's my understanding that the major reason for going in through the "in" barb is related to air and bleeding. This wasn't a problem at all. This build was actually one of the easier to bleed of all the machines I've built.
I hope that answers your question Bro. I think I've probably done a horrible job of explaining myself but I'm tired and my brain has gone lumpy.![]()
Ture, that's part of it. But an even greater reason is that the central inlet is positioned in the center of the block (duh!), which is right over the core under the IHS. By using the normal inlet the water is directed straight at the core, giving the best heat absorbtion. I don't know how much of a temp difference we're talking, i'm not sure it has been tested, but i know the theory is right.
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