loooks good.. i love black themed cases. cant wait to see final product.
loooks good.. i love black themed cases. cant wait to see final product.
Hey! this case is going to be beautiful!
I hope you don't mind me for asking, but WHERE did you get your stuff
powder coated in Stockholm?
I found these beautiful socket/button head screws in titanium:
http://www.kullagergrossisten.se/pro...9622a673433227
http://www.kullagergrossisten.se/ind...9622a673433227
http://www.kullagergrossisten.se/ind...9622a673433227
They are expensive as hell, but I just love the titan color!
And your wife already know now! how much all nice screws cost
so she will not be in chock if you go ahead and buy some more!![]()
I'm getting these beautiful screws for my next build!![]()
Last edited by Vargher Warg; 02-18-2008 at 05:05 AM.
Be Reasonable! - Demand The Impossible!
nice work man
must buy some lian li,the cases are beautiful
Main rig
Intel i7 940@4.0ghz under TRUE 120 Black - Gigabyte EX58 UD5 - 6GB SuperTalent DDR3 1600 mhz - Sapphire Radeon 5870 1GB DDR5 Vapor-X - Corsair HX1000W - 2x320GB Samsung F1 RAID0 - Pioneer 212 - CollerMaster HAF932
Peripherie
Samsung T220 22" - Razer Lycosa - Razer Deathadder - SteelSeries QCK+ fnatic - SteelSeries Siberia v2 - Logitech X530 - Canon Smartbase MP390
Mobile
Acer Aspire One - Sapphire blue - Atom 1.6ghz/1gb ram/16gb/Windows Xp Home Sp3
Wow it looks great! Keep up the good work...and nice to see this being made from a viking![]()
I was looking for this myself, but had a hard time to find any
that was not so expensive, so in the end I made an order from
Studiedata/Danmark and bought AC Ryan's MeshX & Hexx
and an alu-sheet and some black acryl.
But the alu-sheet is only 1mm thick! and you wanted 2mm?![]()
I made an order for these Items:
http://www.studiedata.dk/shop/ac-rya...l%99-349p.html
http://www.studiedata.dk/shop/ac-rya...l%99-345p.html
http://www.studiedata.dk/shop/ac-rya...l%99-321p.html
http://www.studiedata.dk/shop/ac-rya...l%99-313p.html
Logan! Sorry for hijacking your thread!
Be Reasonable! - Demand The Impossible!
Blue wire from the DDC is the signal wire, RPM. If you plug it into your cpu socket fan header, it gives you pump rpm read out in Everest etc and what ever bios protection your board has.
thanks for the support guys!!
@NysoO, I couldn't tell you the part number as I walk into the Solna shop and just buy it straight outta the box. But I also have bought some random sizes in a mix package I found at Bauhas the other day. It may be the Bauhas stuff. . .BTW, ALU Platt 2000mm*1500mm*1mm was 749:- or something like that there. Could be a little wider, but I know it was 2000mm long and only 1mm thick.
@Vargher Warg my PC'ing was done here, but see if you can get a better price than what I got. And let me know how much that shipping was from DK, and how dark that Ryan AC plexi is, I'm interested in that!
They say the definition of madness is doing the same thing and expecting a different result.
Howlin' Pelle Almqvist
Project Log Completed: all internal v1000
I'm going to visit CGT in my sportlov så we'll se what the 2000 * 1000 * 2mm sheet will cost. Through mail he said that it would cost 486kr + moms which is ~600kr for us. Think it's a really nice price.
I love seeing build like this, inspires me to make a custom case with all the bells and whistles.
-yonton228/timmy
Hi!
I just received the Acryl and the MeshX I ordered last week.
(the Alusheet and the Hexx-mesh is coming soon - i had to split the order)
OK! the acryl is not black 'per se', I'd rather call it a smoked grey tint.
But that's allright with me, now you could see some of the interior of
your PC without a light behind the acryl - I really like this smoked grey tint!
(If you're looking for 'no see through' and really black acryl - this is not it)
It came well wrapped with cardboard around it.
The shipping from Denmark was 170 DKK
to the front door of my house - for these two Items.
1 DKK is about 1.25 SEK so I paid 214 SEK for the shipping.
(Visst fan va titanskruvarna snygga?)
Regards!
Be Reasonable! - Demand The Impossible!
Could you do me a favor and take a picture of the Acryl with a) normal lighting in the room and b)with some sort of lighting behind it (if you had CCFl's or LED's that would be perfect) so I can see how grey and/or dark it is? Those prices are pretty good compared to what Simglas takes locally for something similiar. I am interested in black or darker Acryl, but I'll wait and see what you got.
How's the mesh?
And yes, those screws were nice, about the same price as I paid for the domeheads -lol
They say the definition of madness is doing the same thing and expecting a different result.
Howlin' Pelle Almqvist
Project Log Completed: all internal v1000
Unfortunately I don't have any camera at home for the moment - sorry!![]()
But I found these pictures when I did my research before I bought mine :
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/foru...pic.php?t=1635
http://www1.acryan.com/_acrylpanel/index.shtml
As you can see It's not very dark, I would not call it black.
The acryl is a translucent blackish/dark greyish panel, and it may not be
what you're looking for - but it has a nice price.
Right now I'm looking for a more "black acryl panel" to put
as a window on my TJ07, so I'll tell you if I find one in or near Sweden.
Akriform in Sollentuna has all sorts of plexi, and a friend bought last year
from them, a very nice dark and more black acrylpanel .
http://www.akriform.se/ (rökfärgad eller röktonad acryl)
It was also translucent so you could see through, but the color was
more dark and more blackish than the AC Ryan's panel.
I think he bought it for around 500 SEK, you could give them a call and ask!
I'm planning to visit them myself in a near future to see if they have some?
The MeshX is perfect for my plans, you could bend it at the edge of a table
and have any form you like to have, this mesh don't have any good airflow though!
For a good airflow I recommend the HexxMesh which has 75% free airflow.
The MeshX only have about 50% of free airflow, so It's maybe better off
to be used as building material or similar.
Regards!
Last edited by Vargher Warg; 02-18-2008 at 12:53 PM.
Be Reasonable! - Demand The Impossible!
LOL- I think those guys are up the street from me!! I'll have to drive by there. . .
They say the definition of madness is doing the same thing and expecting a different result.
Howlin' Pelle Almqvist
Project Log Completed: all internal v1000
Got some new screws!!!! 16cm!!
Get a load of those teeth baby!
hehe, sorry, not really for the build, but they're brand new and were hard to get a hold of them in the EU as they're the '08 series. Going to Rjukan, NO next weekend finally!
anyway here's a few pics of what I did tonight. . .
and tapped out to M4 thank you very much. . .
more later. . .
They say the definition of madness is doing the same thing and expecting a different result.
Howlin' Pelle Almqvist
Project Log Completed: all internal v1000
So you are going Rjukan? The place in Norway?
Well if it's that place, I gotta say. It rocks man.
Norway rocks for skiing if thats what you're lookin for.
I'm sad, cause you are leavin. That means no more updates for a while. Sad, but true.
Gonna miss you and your V1000 case.
Great work man. Carry on. Love your work. And your case.!!!!!
My gaming rig
Core i7 920 C0/C1@ 2.66 Ghz
6gb Corsair Dominator 1600mhz
2xClub3D HD 4890 in CrossfireX
DFI LP UT T3eH8
Lian Li PC-V2100B PlusII
MIST 1000w
LG W2600HP-BF
Samsung Spinpoint F1 1TB
Water cooling system
MCR-320 and MCR-220
D-Tek Fuzion V1
7/16" ID 5/8" OD
MCP-655
They say the definition of madness is doing the same thing and expecting a different result.
Howlin' Pelle Almqvist
Project Log Completed: all internal v1000
Small update
I've been collecting some fittings for some time, trying to decide what to use with the blocks that I own.
On friday, a long awaited package came straight from China (thanks Vincent!).
Are these not beautiful???
Shame that I learned also on friday, that they won't fit any block I own!!! So the big, moral dilema came down to spending another 800-1300kr on new blocks to make these fittings work, or just using the barbs that I have. The blocks that I own are the D-Tek Fuzion and the MCW-60; the rad is the PA120.2 (which would need reducers to fit the BP's). I can post pics of the blocks and rad (which I have a special treat for you there) later, when I get closer to set-up, but here's barb pics for now, so you can see the difference between them and the BP's.
Dtek 3/8"
Dtek 3/8" compared to the 1/2" (which I tried to use, but with 1/8" walled tubing, forgedddaabowwwtit)
3/8" BSP 3/8" Barb - Nickel (rad fittings, shame I have to use sealing tape)
Here's some custom fittings/elbows/T's that Martin made for me, which I'm very proud of, and hoping to use somewhere, as they are just so damn cool!
![]()
Some fittings mounted on the MCW-60 to show you clearance
Same block, with BP's
Can you say clearance? Nope. There isn't any. I thought, well you could use the BP's, if you cut away the delrin under the metal hold-down plate in the front, but then what would that do to the overall integrity of the delrin, if I shaved off 1-2mm for clearance? Usch, not worth it.
So it's either buy new blocks, or use the barbs instead. I'm really torn on that, because it comes down to looks vs performance. And that's a whole can of worms right there. I might wait to see what the results of nikshub1's testing of the EK is compared to the fuzion, before I make my mind up. It's only money right??
Anyway, I had 4 hours of mod time last night, so I spent an hour taking pics (that you've seen), and trying to get the BP's to fit on anything I have, and then roughly three hours doing the sleeving on my ATX. Yeah, I know, it's been done before, but I really like the look of it, and think it came out pretty good.
It was about here though, that I said, what the hell am I doing???? Do I really want to go down this path. . . .
One brand new Seasonic PSU warranty just voided. . .
But I have to agree with Mekrel when he posted this 'I've re-sleeved my PSU, as I don't like the fishnet stuff most PSU's come with'. Even Seasonic didn't have the best quality sleeving. Which makes you wonder, I paid over 1200kr for this PSU, the least they could do is use decent sleeving. Oh well.
Getting the pins out was no easy feat. I used the Sunbeam tool kit for pin removal, and they have a handy tool for 24ATX pin's, and even with that, it was an extreme PITA. It wasn't until the 6th or 7th pin that I discovered a little trick that made it easy peasy. Push harder.![]()
Anyway, it was still time consuming and I'm still stressed over the job and wondering if I got all the wires in the right place. We'll see.
Here I realized that it was going to be a long night. I cranked up my ipod (10,000 songs on shuffle I was bound to hear something I liked) and started chanting 11 more to go. 11 more to go
Ahh, the finish line was in sight!!!! I not only wrote down a spec sheet with a drawing of every wire placement on the pin, but I took pictures of the ATX pin before the job. And used tape to number the overall placements. Hence the blue stuff you see. . .
Looking better
3 Hours later (damn, no speed record), and I was done!!!!!
Not too shabby eh? I guess it will look a lot better in the case.
That's about it for now. Still lot's to do. . .
They say the definition of madness is doing the same thing and expecting a different result.
Howlin' Pelle Almqvist
Project Log Completed: all internal v1000
Nice sleeving job, your patience has paid off![]()
I like the sleeving job!
Where did you order the stuff from in China? I live in China, and can only find that stuff at a few stores.![]()
Did you try here?
They seem to have almost everything. .
They say the definition of madness is doing the same thing and expecting a different result.
Howlin' Pelle Almqvist
Project Log Completed: all internal v1000
Well,
my mini-vacation ice climbing in Rjukan was a total bust. For various reasons. But the biggest reason was 8c weather and rain making it the warmest winter in like 250 years or something.
I blame this:
so, bad news for me, good news for you. I did some work (2 mini projects)last night and I'll post pics later tonight after work. . . .
They say the definition of madness is doing the same thing and expecting a different result.
Howlin' Pelle Almqvist
Project Log Completed: all internal v1000
Sorry to hear about your vacation.
But anyway it is good for us. Good to see you back on track Logan.![]()
My gaming rig
Core i7 920 C0/C1@ 2.66 Ghz
6gb Corsair Dominator 1600mhz
2xClub3D HD 4890 in CrossfireX
DFI LP UT T3eH8
Lian Li PC-V2100B PlusII
MIST 1000w
LG W2600HP-BF
Samsung Spinpoint F1 1TB
Water cooling system
MCR-320 and MCR-220
D-Tek Fuzion V1
7/16" ID 5/8" OD
MCP-655
AHHHHH!!! Had written a really long post, only to fubar it before posting. AHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!! Makes me want to cry. . .
Starting over:
After my trip to Norway was ruined (1600km and 20hrs later) due to bad weather, I came home early and decided to alleviate my sadness with a little work.
Got these in the mail today, and can I say they are beauts!!!
Fine craftsmanship!
Have to give a big thanks to my friends in China (Vincent and the gang) for sending me these connectors which solves the MCW60 problem. Now the fittings will work, no problems! Check out this thread as it gives you a better idea with the end result.
So my next dilema is this. And I wouldn't mind you guys weighing in a little here as I need some opinions. I'm torn between what I should do with the front panel. I have three idea's, ranging from easy to hard in difficulty in accomplishing them. Here they are:
Idea's
1. Use Lian Li bay covers to stealth front. Use bay cover over DVD, and cut up a cover to use for Fan Control Panel. Difficulty- easy.
2. Use a smoked grey/black acrylic piece as the front panel. Would have to have the DVD slot door Laser/water cut for perfection, and then could do the FC panel myself. Would not sit flush w/ case. Difficulty -medium.
3. Use a 1mm alu panel (sanded and polished) for front cover. Use 1-3 led's to light behind panel allowing you to see into the front of the case. Would expose DVD and FC wiring (not sexy). Would need to do same laser/watercutting for the DVD door slot as number 2. Would want it to sitt flush with case. Difficulty - hard.
The difficulty ratings are based on my skill sets, which are none.
Moving on. I wanted to uniform the color a little more inside the case, and decided that these would do nicely to replace the stock heat spreaders on 4GB's of Crucial Ballistix 8500's that I have.
I got the pure copper spreaders to match the heat sinks on the Mobo. The directions seemed simple enough.
Take this:
Add this:
Strip it:
Get this:
Not bad eh? Too bad that efter doing 3 sticks with no problems, I was feeling confident and either A)pulled too hard, or B)the glue was too strong on the spreaders resulting in C)me pulling to hard. Because I ended up with a Micron D9 in my palm. Long story short, there was much crying because I realized that I voided the warranty by touching the spreaders in the first place. After balling like a small baby ( and I know what that sounds like because my son reminds me all the time), I manned up and did the only thing I could do - order another set.
Amazingly DDR2 prices and Crucuial having been falling through the floor, and overnight I watched Komplett drop the price by a couple hundred crowns. I got another set pretty cheap. So now I have 5GB's of ram and one 32bit OS. Looks like I need to upgrade my OS soon. . .
My next project involves the Thermochill PA120.2. I originally wanted to chrome it, and after calling, and calling, and calling around, I found someone who would only charge me a leg (allowing me to keep my arm) to do it. If I did the prep work my self. IE sand and strip.
Now I wish that I had taken pictures of stage 1 and 2, but i didn't. Stage 1 involved me taking an old baby bum rag and some handy paint remover, and applying said remover to said rag to said rad. And after a few wipes, it was done. No kidding. I literally applied the remover to the not so thick TC paint, and it came off faster than I could get my camera on. Literally a 3 minute job.
Feeling enthused, I moved to stage 2. Stage 2 involved my sanding the rad to a mirror finish. Why mirror? Because that's what the chromers said I had to do.
I started with 320grit and worked my way up increasing the grit size (or really decreasing) by 200 or so all the way to 2000 wet/dry. I did this all by hand. By hand because I don't have a sander. I wish I did now. All in all, I thinkit took me close to 10 hours of sanding and polishing. I didn't take any pictures here either, because by the end, I was so tired in the arms, that I couldn't lift the camera.
Stage 3 involved me polishing the rad with some Autosol. Here I found an attatchment buffer for my drill which I took advantage of. And when I was done, I said to myself - 'self, who needs chroming? This thing puts the bad in bad-azzzz!!!!!! '
BEHOLD THE VIRGIN PA120.2 IN ALL IT'S GLORY!
Do you get a twinkle in your eye?
Can you say mirror finish??
More:
Little in-thread advertising:
And a last shot of the sides w/flash:
I love it!!! It came out so much better than I hoped, and I really like the copper ends. Schwiiiiiing!
Now I just need to decide on the front and I can come closer to putting the whole system together.
They say the definition of madness is doing the same thing and expecting a different result.
Howlin' Pelle Almqvist
Project Log Completed: all internal v1000
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