WC in an Antec P182

[Card Nox]

Lol no problem . And thanks for your opinion, I indeed heared that the BIP performs pretty well cause of the tight space between the fins, which automatically means that it performs well with high CFM.

I want to spin my fans @ app. 900 rpm. Although connected to a RAD the air movement will make some more noise then when they are being used as a casefan. Therefor i will probably drop the speed to 600 or so.

Nja, i think the choice of the RAD will not make a difference of 5 degrees, but i just want to make sure i buy what's actually the best value-for-money for me

[LsdBoy]

Dose any one know if the thermalright mosfets + sb/nb blocks will cool my striker extreme enough with my E6750 @ 25% OC? I will be getting this h2o upgrade for a start:
Lain dcc 18w + petras top
D-tek Fuzion + nozzle kit
EK-RES150 Rev.2 Multi-Option Reservoir + anti cyclone kitt
Danger Den Acetal FillPort
That will go with my:
MCR320
2xalphacool gpu blocks.
The loop will go res-pump-radiator-cpu-gpu-gpu-res or res-pump-gpu-gpu-cpu-rad-res. The second one will look best in my p180b.

[WoZZeR999]

@Card Nox: I would go with the MCR if you want low cfm fans. Thermochill may be a tad better, but it's also way too thick to put in the top (or almost anywhere in the tiny P182).

@LsdBoy: First on the Mosfets, I noticed that the P182 has a dead spot in the corner, even with the 2 fans there. The NB/SB should be fine with a fan in the upper HD area, but you will want some other form of cooling for the PWM area. The Thermalright may work ok since it has a larger height, I'm not sure because I never ended up actually using it on my mobo. As for the loop, what kind of GPU's are you running, because 2 will dump a decent amount of heat. A 25% O/C isn't that much, so it may work out ok, but the temps will not be as low as they could be (if that is even your primary goal).

[LsdBoy]

@Card Nox: I would go with the MCR if you want low cfm fans. Thermochill may be a tad better, but it's also way too thick to put in the top (or almost anywhere in the tiny P182).

@LsdBoy: First on the Mosfets, I noticed that the P182 has a dead spot in the corner, even with the 2 fans there. The NB/SB should be fine with a fan in the upper HD area, but you will want some other form of cooling for the PWM area. The Thermalright may work ok since it has a larger height, I'm not sure because I never ended up actually using it on my mobo. As for the loop, what kind of GPU's are you running, because 2 will dump a decent amount of heat. A 25% O/C isn't that much, so it may work out ok, but the temps will not be as low as they could be (if that is even your primary goal).

I have 1 120mm noctua NF-s12 @ 7v in the rear, and 3x120mm noctua NF-s12 @ 7vin the top outside my p180 sucking the air out. My gpu's are 2x6800gs. My goal is not super low temps, but i want low temps and a silent system.

My current rig is:
Astek WaterChill Antarctica ghetto modded to fit socket 775
2xAlphacool NexXxoS NVXP-3
Alphacool Laing DCC 10w + ultra top
MRC 320 radiator
+6x120mm noctua NF-s12 @ 7v. But my orginal nb/sb + mosfetscooling isen't good enough and the system shut's itself down when i play a game o long without a fan blowing at the NB + mosfets.

I'm thinking of having the Thermalright HR-05 SLI/IFX "High Riser" @ my nb with the base @ the rear fan. Then a Thermalright HR-05/IFX "High Riser" for my SB. My striker E has enough space betwen the pci- 16x ports and it would not block my standard pci port where i have my x-fi extreme music.

[WoZZeR999]

For the water loop, you would probably be fine, since you are looking for silence over the best temps possible. You may want to look into getting a spot cooler for the PWM area, as the NB area should have a decent amount of flow.

Have you tracked the temps of the NB and PWM after your long gaming sessions?

[Card Nox]

@ WoZZeR999, Thermochill is indeed way to thick. MCR = 4mm thicker then the others. Sjee why did Antec not build it 1 or 2 CM higher

@ LsdBoy, i understand u want feedback but maybe it's usefull to make a new topic so that it will be 1 subject per topic?

[WoZZeR999]

I wish the P182 was just a tad taller, wouldn't have to have my fans in push. I will keep that in mind for the next mobo/case purchase though, which ever comes first.

[Tw1st3d]

Yeah why didn't didn't antec make it just 1 damn cm higher... T_T

When hand heals (was bitten by a stupid dog)

I'm going to cut a hole in the 5.25" drive baycage so i have that and a dual radiator in front at same time.

There is space for 1, 5.25" drive in the top, if the radiator is tad smaller than MCR220 or have the fittings at the buttom..

Hope its helpfull..

[Card Nox]

You are overwelming yourself with RAD's

This guy here : Build link
Has a Alphacool NexXxoS Pro III Radiator - Rev. 2 and it seems it's not hanging over the motherboard at all, and even if so it's just a tiny bit. The nice thing is that he also has his fans in pull mode.

[xisio]

check my project.

[Intern]

I think it would be a problem for me to have my PA120.3 in the top, since the PA is just to thick or the case isnt high enough. Ur choise how to see it :P
The mosfet cooler might be in the way aswell...

Maybe Ill just mount it external on top of the case, or on the back like xisio. Time will tell

[Card Nox]

@ xisio, nice build, only a pity that you mixed two kinds of metal. Furthermore is has nothing to do with my needs because i wanted everything internally.

@ Intern, yes it's way to thick to be fitted in the top. You could choose to have or your fans or you RAD outside the case and the other component inside.

[xisio]

@card nox, No problem with this, its anodized aluminium, and i used Faser One in system, dont worry about mixed materials. Check any page where you can buy it, ex. http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/...productid=2349

Additional Notes
Aluminium special continuous casting profile coloured anodized
Absolutely corrosion-resistant
Sufficient cooling performance for all common CPUs

[Card Nox]

I'm using all Copper components. I don't want to add any chemical fluids to improve my temps with 1 degree. Don't really like it, besides i'm going to use black tubes so any visual effect would be invisible, except for in the RES.

[Card Nox]

Wow, i totally forgot about this place. Just for the people who are interessed in seeing how i did things there's a little log.
My apologies for the bad pic quality. All pics are clickable.

Before:
(without 8800GTS)

Main waterkoeling parts pics:
* XSPC X2O Delta Universal : *


* EK Water Blocks EK-FC8800 GT/GTS (G92) SLI ready - Acetal : *


* Swiftech MCW30 Northbridge universal : *


* Swiftech MCR320 360mm : *


* Laing DDC-Pumpe 12V DDC-1T : *


* XSPC Acrylic Reservoir for Laing DDC : *


* 10mm (3/8") Schlauchanschluss G1/4 mit O-Ring (High-Flow) : *


* Tygon R3603 : *


Till here the parts, let’s instal it all.

* Move 1 : Resevoir on pump installed *


* Move 2 : Stripped case *


* Move 3 : Painted case *
Yes I know about the drip there


* Move 4 : Taking apart the mobo *


* Move 5 : Mounting the CPU *


* Move 6 : Placing the NB *


* Move 7 : Installing the GPU *
-

* Move 8 : Putting tubes into place *
- -

* Move 9 : Leak testing *
- -

* Move 10 : Result *
- - - -

RAD -> NB -> CPU -> GPU -> RES/Pump ->
Will try to put it:
RAD -> CPU -> NB -> GPU -> RES/Pump ->
But it’s hard to go from NB to GPU.

Temps
Idle & Max temps :
Core #1 = 27 & 46
Core #2 = 25 & 46
Moederbord (SB not NB!) = 40 & 42
GPU = 36 & 41
GPU surrounding = 31 & 35
GPU environment = 27 & 29
HD #1 = 40 & 45
HD #2 = 40 & 45
* CPU temps are read with Real Temp, others with Everest Ultimate
* Pump @ 11v, 3 outtake fans @ 7v no airintake (all Scythe S-Flex 1600), doos closed, sidepanel on = deadly silent

E7200 @ 3,4Ghz (9,5 * 358 ) with 1,2V in BIOS and 1,152V @ stresstesting

I already bought a HD4870, but need to buy a WCblock for that so..
Cya!

[Mick64]

Here's mine. You might get away with just the bottom 120.2. I fitted the external 120.3 because I have a very hot running Q6600...

[Card Nox]

The prev. post was my old build, here the new one with some other tubing.

PICS ARE CLICKABLE

Inside


CPU & NB


Fillport


Bitspower G14 Silver Shining Rotary 45 Degree IG14 Adapter


View from the backside


Tygon black with orange antiknik (@ the fillport)


’ Cablemanagement’


Outside
Can't make enough pics of that, that Gun Metal is soooo nice *drewl*

[AndrewZorn]

Either mount the radiator externally, or bring it all the way to the 'front' if on the inside, and might be able to slip the edge of the motherboard BEHIND it.

Did NOT read the whole thread.

EDIT holy crap I guess I should have didn't realize the age...

[Card Nox]

^^ Andrew

[2low4u]

Yeah old revive. Should be moved to Work projects maybe?

[MJR]

I tried that rad setup in a p182 and it wouldn't work. Not enough mobo clearance. I ended up replacing the blackIce stealth with a thermochill, mounted fans internally and rad on top.

[Oli4v]

Very nice nox (lemmy from hardware.info), I didn't saw the new pics of your case yet

painting is very nice ! an the loop is clean !

I see you got yourself a nice pair of dominators? :p

[armeniandave]

This was my first P180 watercooling system. It was also the inspiration for making my brackets! Maybe it will help you.

[AndrewZorn]

That fillport holder... is exactly what I've been trying to construct some form of for a WHILE! Are they for sale, super-cheap?

[Oli4v]

That fillport holder... is exactly what I've been trying to construct some form of for a WHILE! Are they for sale, super-cheap?

I think it's just a pom holder for the EK multires reservoirs and other reservoirs