My "murder" project.

[charles_h]

Thanks for the comments Guys.

Ps : I'm first for the murderMod TJ07 005 top grill ^^

Absolutely. Right after Fried Chicklettes and Steffen.

I am still looking for a I/O shield.. I am trying to steal one from my brother-in-law.. but he is resisting!

You must tell him RESISTANCE IS FUTILE. Or just take it while he sleeps.

For the IO Shield. Why don´t you ask directly at EVGA? Lost mine too and had 2 days later a new one

Cheers Steffen, I sent them an email.

try contacting evga, foxconn or bfg cause they're all the same 680i boards. foxconn makes them and evga and bfg rebadge their names on em. i think xfx may use the same board to but i dont remember, haven't looked at that series since last summer when i built a pc for a friend and used one.

i was up at Lowes yesterday and stopped by the electronics section and found those cable clamps, they were made by a different company but i got them and they work great. great idea Charles

Done and glad to hear you found those clamps.

Hey, I don't know if it's any help, but I have an extra I/O shield for my XFX 680i LT that I'm not using. It's leftover from my RMA, I forgot to send it back, lol. If it'll work, you can have it for free. Call it for the good of the cause.... the murderMod cause!!!

Cheers hiyah, very kind of you. The varmint I need has two Ethernet ports - I don't recall if the LT version has one or two...

10 please

Sweet! I'm pleased to announce that bulk orders of 10 or more come with a handsome set of Acrylic steak knives.

lyl he does have a problem bleeding that loop fully, with his scenario of tipping the case on the front, air will get trapped in his fuzion block...

anyway this is still not quite finished, so he can still invert the cpu block to the proper orientation...

hmmm... It only takes about 10 mins to fill and fully bleed all the air. How much faster would it be to invert the block do you think? I always thought the in and out designations on the block were more for flow design than trapped air.

i do have to say that it looks painfully restrictive to airflow though

It's actually pretty good. There's a considerable amount of airflow. Obviously without a fan, this wouldn't be adequate for an air cooled config.



Project Update: I figured I'd mount the EK blocks to the cards in hopes that that would help summon an IO shield of build finishing. This is my 1st experience with EK products so I followed the instructions carefully. After joining the card to the block, I noticed there was a gap as a result of the power regulator block not being flush with the water block. I tried reseating it a few times with no luck. I then switched to an other ALU power reg block and it had the same problem. It appears the Nickel block is the culprit. The other Nickel block is fine. Shame the problem isn't the ALU block as I have two of those from the original copper blocks.





Golly! Almost no ram contact.





There's the problem - the ALU block is on an angle - yikes!


Bottomline: the IO Shield is no longer holding up the build...

[lyl]

hmmm... It only takes about 10 mins to fill and fully bleed all the air. How much faster would it be to invert the block do you think? I always thought the in and out designations on the block were more for flow design than trapped air.

Here's what the D-tek manual says

Apply high quality thermal paste such as Artic Silver to the CPU core. Place the water-block down until it rests atop the CPU. Make sure
the waterblock orientation is that in which the outlet barb is placed at the top when the computer is upright to help bleed any air bubbles
in the block when filling. This also positions the “D-TEK” label upright.

But like i said, if you have bled the system correctly, I dont see why there would be a problem. Im going to go out on a limb and say Charles has enough WC experience to fully bleed a loop And I dont see the orientation effecting the flow very much at all either.

Your orientation gives the cleanest look, and i think you should go with that It's a murderbox, amirite


Sorry to hear your troubles with the EK block, Charles... At least your project snag is better than a missing I/O shield!

[charles_h]

Thanks guys.

Here's what the D-tek manual says


But like i said, if you have bled the system correctly, I dont see why there would be a problem. Im going to go out on a limb and say Charles has enough WC experience to fully bleed a loop And I dont see the orientation effecting the flow very much at all either.

Your orientation gives the cleanest look, and i think you should go with that It's a murderbox, amirite


Sorry to hear your troubles with the EK block, Charles... At least your project snag is better than a missing I/O shield!

Cheers lyl, good to know. In this case, I might flip the block around. I think the hoses will look neater with the pump going to the "out" barb. This would put the block at a 90 degree angle in relation to the D-Tek logo. If orientation is just about bleeding issues then no worries, It's good exercise wrastling a fully loaded TJ07 around.


Project Update: Nickel block en route. IO Shield still MIA.


RIP George Carlin.

[Friedchicken]

One call to EVGA, and they are shipping one out to me at no charge. I've had several dealings with their RMA and support staff and have had great experiences with them every time.

I highly recommend their products for the warantee/support alone.

[charles_h]

Project Update: I picked up the replacement EK block earlier in the day (thanks to Quoc@ Petra's) and FC brought the IO Shield to me Thursday aft. Threw some paint on the IO Shield and installed the new block on the video card. Decided I'd crank away till late into the night since I was stoked to finally get the last pieces. Put the loop together but will wait till the AM to fill. Still have to button up a few things but I thought I'd take a quick night shot before packing it in, to give you guys a taste.





Many more to follow.

[Steffen]

Yeah what the sh*t is this? Sleeved tube´s
It looks damn awesome!

[LogAn'sRun]

Project Update: I figured I'd mount the EK blocks to the cards in hopes that that would help summon an IO shield of build finishing. This is my 1st experience with EK products so I followed the instructions carefully. After joining the card to the block, I noticed there was a gap as a result of the power regulator block not being flush with the water block. I tried reseating it a few times with no luck. I then switched to an other ALU power reg block and it had the same problem. It appears the Nickel block is the culprit. The other Nickel block is fine. Shame the problem isn't the ALU block as I have two of those from the original copper blocks.

Golly! Almost no ram contact.



There's the problem - the ALU block is on an angle - yikes!

This is a little OT, but I just got my 9800GTX block today (also Nickel woOt) and I'm wondering now if I have the same problem. The Nickel block appears to be fine, as I laid a ruler across the ram sinks and they're perfectly straight. I think I have a problem with the alu block though, it curves slightly away from the card. That's not supposed to do that right? I mean, I would have to use some pretty thick pads to fill the gap. Can someone tell me if this is the same issue?? Do I need to replace this block or the Alu-piece, or is it normal? (no experience here).

[charles_h]

Thanks for the comments Guys.

Wow, but that is not pretty noisekilling!

I have had a similiar mount with these HDD-Silencers and it was mounted on the bottom of the HDD attached to the side of the 5,25 bracket like yours. That was pretty much more silent. Maybe you would like to check the difference. It´s worth it.

I use rubber bushings between the brackets and the case to reduce vibration and sound but I'll definitely look into those, cheers.

Just out of curiosity, why did you sleeve the 6pin PCIe power connections individually?

I assume its because of the aesthetics?

Yes.

This is a little OT, but I just got my 9800GTX block today (also Nickel woOt) and I'm wondering now if I have the same problem. The Nickel block appears to be fine, as I laid a ruler across the ram sinks and they're perfectly straight. I think I have a problem with the alu block though, it curves slightly away from the card. That's not supposed to do that right? I mean, I would have to use some pretty thick pads to fill the gap. Can someone tell me if this is the same issue?? Do I need to replace this block or the Alu-piece, or is it normal? (no experience here).

Ah man, sounds like you've got the same problem.

On mine it was the block that was the problem, not the Alu piece. Quoc @ Petra's theorized that the threads in the Nickel block are most likely at an angle.

I reckon you'll need a new block, on mine the angle resulted in the ram not making proper contact with the block. Yours may not be as bad but for the price of these things, it should be perfect, yes.