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Thread: Water cooling the Asus Maximus SE X38

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    Water cooling the Asus Maximus SE X38

    NOTE: This OP get's updated as new info rolles in...
    I would like to discuss in detail the best way to water cool the ASUS Maximus SE using Aftermarket blocks.

    There is another thread dedicated to running the Maximus SE on the stock ROG cooling:
    Official Water Cooling Thread of the Stock Maximus SE ROG NB Club: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=164610

    Here is our collection of LOADED NB temperatures reported my various members. I would like to see more aftermarket loaded NB temperatures hit the chart.
    Please feel free to submit your data, and this chart will be updated.
    We are looking for the hottest temperature, your NB can hit, under max load!
    We are giving both the ROG stock cooling, and the aftermarket blocks full credit, for being able to keep a NB happy at idle by default.
    That is why I felt recording the NB temperature at idle was not worth it. I was really more interested in the failing point.
    This log's purpose was to simply record how high our NB temps were able to climb on the Maximus SE, using our current cooling solutions.

    When making a submission, it would be helpful if you populated this line with your data:
    ABC Member ---- NB volts -- NB Loaded ------------------- CPU ------------- Ambient ---- NB Block
    XXXXXXXX -------- X.XXv ------ XX°C -- 1HR Prime95 -- Q6600 GO @ X.XGHz ---- XX.X°C ---- EK S-MAX Acetal


    Some lessons I think we have learned about the Maximus SE:

    1) If you are running the stock ROG cooling, and decide to remount it using a higher quality TIM, you may see as much as a 10°C drop in NB temp under max load.

    2) If you decide to go with an aftermarket water block, you can possibly see another additional 10°C drop in your NB temp under max load.

    3) Raju found that loaded NB temps over 47°C have been prone to failures, during longer Prime torture test runs. This is not an exact number, nor should it be considered as such. It is simply ment to help give you a better idea, of what NB temp you might wan't to avoid, for the best system stability. I don't believe it is a hard line drawn in the sand that can't be crossed, but rather use it as a guide myself, and was grateful for the information posted in his findings.
    Raju's and Bingo13's Maximus SE review: http://www.anandtech.com/mb/showdoc.aspx?i=3149



    Members reported loaded NB temp's in the 'Aftermarket Block Club':
    ABC Member ---- NB volts -- NB Loaded ------------------- CPU ------------- Ambient ---- NB Block
    Creek Tha Gray --- 1.61v ------ 20°C -- OCCT at 30min - Q6700 GO @ 3.9GHz ---- 24.6°C ---- EK S-MAX (Vapor Phase Change user)
    Talonman --------- 1.60v ------ 22°C -- 4HR Prime95 --- Q6600 GO @ 3.8GHz ---- 12.7°C ---- EK S-MAX Acetal
    Nikhsub1 ---------- 1.52v ------ 25°C ---------------------- Q6600 @ 3.7GHz --------------- MCW30
    Talonman --------- 1.55v ------ 26°C -- 1HR Prime95 --- Q6600 GO @ 3.8GHz ---- 16.6°C ---- EK S-MAX Acetal
    Dangals ----------- 1.52v ------ 27°C -- 1HR Prime95 --- Q6600 GO @ 3.6GHz ---- 18.5°C ---- EK S-MAX Acetal
    neo rtr ------------ 1.63v ------ 28°C -- 1HR Prime95 --- QX6700 @ 3.6GHz ------ 18.1°C ---- Sixdesign sold by MIPS
    neo rtr ------------ 1.70v ------ 28°C ------------------ QX6700 @ 3.6GHz ------ 19.0°C ---- Sixdesign sold by MIPS
    WFO -------------- 1.46v ------ 30°C -- Folding 48Hrs -- Q6600 GO @ 3.7GHz ---- 21.1°C ---- EK S-MAX Acetal
    neo rtr ------------ 1.70v ------ 33°C ------------------ QX6700 @ 3.6GHz ------ 24.0°C ---- Sixdesign sold by MIPS
    Durkadurka -------- 1.52v ------ 34°C -- 2HR Prime95 --- QX9650 @ 3.8GHz ------ 24.0°C ---- EK S-MAX Acetal
    Clunk ------------- 1.74v ------ 35°C -- Prime over night -- Q6600 @ 3.6GHz ----------------- DangerDen Maze4


    Members reported loaded NB temp's using the stock 'Republic of Gamers' cooling:
    ROG Member ---- NB volts -- NB Loaded ----------------------------- CPU
    bill d ------------- 1.30v ------ 34°C ------------------------------ Q6600 @ 2.4GHz
    TheSamuri -------- 1.54v ------ 34°C -------------------------- Q6600 GO @ 3.9GHz (Reseated W/MX-2, NB was 48°C)
    Renegade5399 ---- 1.65v ------ 34°C --------------------------- E6850 GO @ 4GHz
    ragge86 ---------- 1.65v ------ 36°C ------------------------------ Q6600 @ 3.8GHz
    .OCX ------------- 1.57v ------ 38°C ---Orthos Beta for 10 hours --- E6750 @ 3.4GHz
    initialised --------- 1.52v ------ 39°C --- After 10mins of SP2004 ---- E4500 @ 3.2GHz
    NysoO ------------ 1.60v ------ 39°C -------------------------- Q6600 GO @ 3.6GHz
    raju -------------- 1.65v ------ 39°C --- Prime95 Torture Temp ---- Q6600 @ 3.6GHz (Reseated W/new TIM, NB was 49°C)
    DerekFSE --------- 1.50v ------ 40°C -------- Running Orthos ------ E6400 @ 3.6GHz
    BulldogPO -------- 1.65v ------ 40°C - 24/7 QMC crunching clocks -- Q6600 @ 3.8GHz
    giorgos th. ------- 1.47v ------ 41°C ------------------------------ Q6600 @ 3.60GHz
    neo rtr ----------- 1.70v ------ 42°C ----------------------------- QX6700 @ 3.6GHz
    Aldy402 ---------- 1.63v ------ 43°C -------------------------- Q6600 GO @ 3.825GHz (NB was 62°C-65°C, loaded on air)
    weescott --------- 1.74v ------ 43°C ----------------------------- Q9550 @ 3.8GHz
    j0nnyr0773n ------ 1.54v ------ 44°C -------------------------- Q6600 GO @ 3.6GHz
    Clump ------------ 1.62v ------ 46°C ---- After 1HR of Prime 95 ---- Q6600 @ 3.6GHz

    If you go through the removal of the stock ROG cooling, and officially join the Aftermarket Block Club, or ABC as we like to call it , it is my firm belief that you will be enjoying lower temps.

    __________________________________________________ _____________________________________
    Some aftermarket water blocks that are known to work well with the Maximus SE:


    CPU - D-TEK FuZion (Get optional nozzle kit), EK-Supreme - Plexi, EK-Supreme Acetal, Enzotech SCW-1 Sapphire,
    Swiftech Apogee GTX (Get optional copper top), Danger Den MC-TDX (For quads), Danger Den TDX (For single or dual core) (Get optional brass top on either TDX model),
    Aqua Computer Cuplex XT Double Impact (Get a G1/4 version!)
    Note: AC XT, DD MC-TDX, DD TDX, and SCW-1 are still unconfirmed fits. The EK and Aqua Computer blocks also favor high flow.


    MOSFET - EK-Mosfet ASUS 3a (X38), EK-Mosfet ASUS 3a - Acetal (X38), Sixdesign sold by MIPS.


    North Bridge - EK-NB S-MAX, EK-NB S-MAX Acetal, DangerDen Maze4, Sixdesign sold by MIPS,
    Swiftech MCW30 (Caution: Some have problems with the MCW30 being a tad too small.)
    Quote Originally Posted by Aldy402 View Post
    I just switched out the fusion block for a mcw30.
    I can confirm that it fits, but it takes a little manipulating...
    It only works with the hard mount.

    South Bridge - EK-NB/SB ASUS 3, EK-NB/SB ASUS 3 - Acetal, EK-NB/SB ASUS 4 - Acetal, EK-NB/SB ASUS 4 - Plexi, Sixdesign sold by MIPS.
    Quote Originally Posted by nowakjan2000 View Post
    I used the MCW30 on the SB chip and it fitted well. The only thing I had to do was to reposition (change the direction) the metal holders on both sides of the block. Otherwise it wouldn't fit.
    __________________________________________________ _____________________________________

    Some reference links:
    Aqua Computer Cuplex XT Double Impact sold in the US: http://www.sharkacomputers.com/

    EK's link: http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/izdelki_eng.php
    Recommended Authorized EK Dealer: http://www.petrastechshop.com/

    MIPS link: http://www.mips-computer.de/


    Some valuable info posted by neo_rtr that may help you order correctly for the Maximus, if you opt to give the 'Sixdesign sold by MIPS' blocks a try. (Note: Some pict's on Pg35 & 37 of this thread..)
    FYI - Lot's more pict's of these bolcks in neo's build thread: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=176881
    Quote Originally Posted by neo_rtr View Post
    The replacement parts will be:
    • 2 x EK-Backplate Mosfet ASUS 1, 3, 3a
    • FuZion Intel 775 Pro-Mount Set

    The Nickel Blocks should have the following part nr's:

    ASUS MAXIMUS Chipset Freezer Nickel MCH1034. (NB block)
    ASUS Chipset Freezer Nickel MCH1003. (SB Block)
    ASUS Maximus Mosfet Freezer Nickel MCH1150. (MOSFET block, you need 2pcs)

    Or you can get the "SET" with part nr MCH1415 at 159,90€

    It has been said by MIPS that the fittings should be ¼” and the threads should have max. 5mm, if your fittings are longer than 5mm, then must use the distance rings which are included to every freezer.
    Distance rings are needed unless you use G1/4 to 3/8 Sort fitting barb...

    http://www.dtekcustoms.com/ProductIm.../DT-G14-38.jpg
    HI-Flow Hose Barb - 3/8" (G-1/4" Thread)
    Chrome Plated Brass with O-ring retention groove
    • Barb Size OD: 3/8" (11.2mm at largest point)
    • Barb Size ID: 7.9mm (.31")
    • Thread Size: G-1/4"
    • Material: Chrome Plated Brass
    • Thread Length: 4.5mm (.18")
    • Total Length: 30mm (1.18")
    • Recommended Tubing: 3/8" ID

    1 x MCH034 Northbridge Freezer with 2 Distance rings
    Northbridge Freezer:
    Dimension bottom plate: 60 x 45 mm
    Dimension: 60 x 45 x 10mm (L x B x H)
    Weight: ~127g
    Bottom plate: 5mm
    Platting: Brass 5mm
    Thread Size: 1/4´´

    1 x MCH003 Southbridge Freezer with 2 Distance rings
    Southbridge Freezer:
    Footpoint bottomplate: 40 x 38,5mm
    Dimensions: 49,5 x 40 x 14mm (L x B x H)
    Weight: ~117g
    Bottomplate: 5mm
    Platting: Brass 5mm
    Thread Size: 1/4´´

    2 x MCH150 Mosfet Freezer in with 4 Distance rings
    Mosfet Freezer:
    Footpoint bottom plate: 75 x 16mm
    Dimensions: 90 x 17 x 15 mm (L x B x H )
    Weight: ~123g
    Bottomplate: 5mm
    distance plate: Brass 5mm
    Platting: Brass 5mm
    Thread Size: 1/4´´

    To Order from MIPS:
    goto http://www.mips-computer.de/
    goto watercolling
    goto MIPS
    goto MAINBOARD SETS
    goto ASUS Maximus Freezer
    goto to the bottom "Bestellen" click it brings you to the shopping card
    click on Zur KAsse
    Click on Worldwide shipping for USA, or EU Shipement DHL for EU
    Click on Weiter

    Enter your details
    Anrede: title
    Vorname (*): First name
    Nachname (*): Lastname
    Firma: Firm-Company
    Straße (*): Street
    PLZ (*): ZIP
    Ort: City
    Land: Country
    you can figure out the rest
    Telefon etc.
    http://dict.tu-chemnitz.de/ is a dictionary site. give it a go

    and click on Weiter

    After than and once confirmed you will receive an email to pay via paypal.
    Once done MIPS will let you know.
    For me it was done same day, Monday and 3 days later i had the goods.
    Any questions email the guys at MIPS, they have been very helpfull!!
    hope this helps-
    The Sixdesign blocks, sold by MIPS:
    Quote Originally Posted by neo_rtr View Post
    I used the thermalpad from the original mosfets and installed the MIPS freezers with backplates from EK.
    The screws provided by MIPS fit with the backplates. MIPS in action...

    Quote Originally Posted by Pete View Post
    MIPS sell them, they have nothing at all to do with making of them. They are made by Sixdesign.

    Quote Originally Posted by Pete View Post
    (The 'EK-NB S-MAX' block on the NB, 'EK-NB/SB ASUS 3' on the SB, and 'EK-Mosfet ASUS 3a (X38)' on the MOSFET's.)

    Quote Originally Posted by Exahertz View Post
    (The 'EK-NB S-MAX' block on the NB, 'EK-NB/SB ASUS 3' on the SB, and 'EK-Mosfet ASUS 3a (X38)' on the MOSFET's.)


    Quote Originally Posted by nowakjan2000 View Post
    (The 'EK S-MAX Acetal' block on the NB, 'EK-NB/SB ASUS 3 - Acetal' on the SB, and 'EK-Mosfet ASUS 3a - Acetal (X38)' on the MOSFET's.)

    Quote Originally Posted by Creek Tha Gray View Post
    An updated pic with all EK waterblocks
    EK-Supreme - Plexi, EK-Mosfet ASUS 3a (X38) - Plexi, EK-NB S-MAX - Plexi, and EK-NB/SB ASUS 4 - Plexi.

    Quote Originally Posted by nikhsub1 View Post
    Some pics with the MCW30 plumbed in...



    Quote Originally Posted by Clunk View Post
    The standard DangerDen Maze4 Intel chipset block fits perfectly on the NB.
    Quote Originally Posted by Scooby View Post
    Don't know if you guys know of this....
    Dtek FuZion Intel 775 Pro-Mount set...

    The FuZion Pro-Mount set allows fitment to 775 boards with minimal bracket intrusion and utilizes a metal backplate to prevent motherboard warpage due to mounting pressures.
    Found them here at jab-tech.com.
    Talonman's Maximus, with a Pro Mount installed. Lot's of room for R68 coils around the CPU, to catch some good air:
    FYI - On the Pro-Mount, the mounting bolts stop themselves from being overtightened.


    The backplate:



    FYI - If you do opt to air cool some of your Maximus, below is listed some possible options.
    For the MOSFET:
    Quote Originally Posted by Scooby View Post
    From Thermalright website, I highlighted where it applies to the Maximus.


    If ordering online, if it does not mention that the HR-09 U/S is "Type 2" then the component is a "Type 1".

    Note: if you guys are going to use the Thermalright HR-09U Type 2 on your mosfets especially the one by the I/O plate side you will notice that the two capasitors make for a tight fit when installing the heatsinks. I took a Dremel to one of the fitting and sanded it down a bit to thin it down and BAM!!! When Installing it did not even touch the capasitors. Sorry no pics but I thought for those of you who want to do this should know.

    Sites that I know of that carry the HR-09 U/S Type 2:
    Sidewinder.com

    SVC.com
    Some Thermalright HR-05's on the NB and SB, and HR-09 Type 2 on the MOSFET'S.
    Note: The HR-05's seem to work well on the SB, but the NB'es IHS is larger than the base of the HR-05.
    Scooby's Maximus:



    For the SB:
    The Enzotech low profile, Forged Copper CNB-S1L sink can work here, providing your willing to rotate it 90° from the norm, and permanently attach it.
    I did on my Maximus SE using 100% Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive. She's on there for keeps, and now is making excellent chip to sink contact!



    Tips:

    On advice as whether to use a TIM or Pad between MOSFET block, and the Maximus...
    Quote Originally Posted by Exahertz View Post
    Pads

    TIM is just not suited for this application

    >The MOSFET blocks don't have much support except for one off-center mounting point on each end allowing it to wobble a lot. If you use TIM it could be continusily squished in many different ways that it could be moved right out from under the block.

    >While using pads they will stay in place much better.

    >you also cant acheive the pressure required to make good TIM contact.

    >Furthermore, if you dont use a back plate there will be a little bowing and the MOSFET chips in the middle may not make any contact at all!

    >pads are a lot thicker than TIM, so they will form to the bow a little better.

    > the amount of cooling required to cool the MOSFET chips is minimal. so theres no need for high proformance TIM

    Tip: use the pads that are removed from the original MOSFET cooler as their the perfect cut size.
    Talonman's advice on the removal of the stock ROG cooling:
    It took me a good 10 minutes with the hair dryer, warming the heat sink, before the stock goop let me gently wiggle the ROG cooling free.
    Remove the 4 screws and all pins before starting. The entire cooling rig is all connected, and will want to move as 1 big unit.
    You will need to make sure to give the SB some heat too. It has to let go at the same time that the NB does.
    Never pull up! Just gently wiggle side to side. It will start to move when it's ready. Pulling up can cause your NB'es IHS to come off too. Most of us like it on, and think it works well with waterblocks.
    Ware a glove as the sink get's hot with the hair dryer's heat blowing on it.
    Mine was coaxed off successfully.
    Try to avoid over heating the mobo if possible. Mabey use a towel as a heat shield for the chips?
    The stock goop will be semi-molten when it slides free. It is the ideal time to use some acetone to clean the rest off.


    Note: Lot's of members have had better luck using cold, insted of heat to remove the stock cooling.
    Quote Originally Posted by C'DaleRider View Post
    I used the cold spray method....but sprayed much longer than 10 seconds. I bought a can of circuit freeze spray (it's used to trace down circuit problems that occur when the circuit heats up....spray the circuit to cool/freeze it down, etc.) I tried first with a short shot of spray..., and had remarkably little success. I then sprayed the block, on top and both exposed sides (the sides w/o the heatpipe entering/leaving the block) for maybe 30 sec., or even longer. I know the entire block ended up covered in frost as was the surrounding part of the motherboard. I didn't use the motherboard proper to lever upon, though. Instead, I put a very small piece of wood along side the block and that's what I pried upward against. The entire NB section then just popped off lickety split. Only took a second or two of easy prying.....and I was quite worried about the IHS coming off as I had run the board on aircooling for well over a month prior to doing this.

    Other things I'd consider to use as the "fulcrum" block.....a Molex fan connector, a thumb drive.....anything about a 1/4" tall or so to get the screwdriver off the motherboard and give you more leverage, so you can pop it off without having to twist the screwdriver, esp. against the motherboard itself. The slight increase in height will give you a lot of leverage, making it very easy to get the HS off......and it removes any chance of damaging any traces on the motherboard. I wouldn't worry about the frost that happens on the board.....your board will stand cold much easier than heat....just make sure you let the frost you create dissipate before you hook it back up to electricity. There are even companies that'll cryogenically freeze your electronics....supposed to align the molecular structure in all the metal to give better performance. Heard they do a lot of car parts for racing, too. (Pistons, rings, valves, metal brake rotors, etc. All for enhanced performance.)
    Quote Originally Posted by deepcover View Post
    I just wanted to further confirm that removal of the NB heatsink on the Maximus Formula (non-SE) was a snap with the circuit freeze spray as was stated earlier. I sprayed it on the SB and the heatsink came loose on its own. The NB I sprayed for about 3-4 minutes and pryed it gently with a screwdriver and it popped right off. I've been using my MB for a month prior to removal of the NB heatsink. The freeze spray costs 8 bucks at Radio Shack or Fry's electronics. I also reused the backplate of the NB by removing the bolts with a plyer and widening the holes a little with a drill. I used the SB heatsink as a backplate for the SB. I used the rubber washers that were allready on the SB and extra plastic washers to ensure that there was enough space between the backplate, the PCB, and the motherboard tray. The cement was removed easily from the NB and SB with acetone as someone stated earlier.















    Last edited by Talonman; 05-13-2008 at 02:24 AM.
    Asus Maximus SE X38 / Lapped Q6600 G0 @ 3.8GHz (L726B397 stock VID=1.224) / 7 Ultimate x64 /EVGA GTX 295 C=650 S=1512 M=1188 (Graphics)/ EVGA GTX 280 C=756 S=1512 M=1296 (PhysX)/ G.SKILL 8GB (4 x 2GB) SDRAM DDR2 1000 (PC2 8000) / Gateway FPD2485W (1920 x 1200 res) / Toughpower 1,000-Watt modular PSU / SilverStone TJ-09 BW / (2) 150 GB Raptor's RAID-0 / (1) Western Digital Caviar 750 GB / LG GGC-H20L (CD, DVD, HD-DVD, and BlueRay Drive) / WaterKegIII Xtreme / D-TEK FuZion CPU, EVGA Hydro Copper 16 GPU, and EK NB S-MAX Acetal Waterblocks / Enzotech Forged Copper CNB-S1L (South Bridge heat sink)

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