Asus Maximus SE X38 WC with MIPS Mosfets, SB,NB

[neo_rtr]

Scope of work: Modification of the Asus Maximus SE X38 and removal of the original Fusion Block.
My existing build is this


By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-20

Cpu: QX6700

By neo_rtr at 2008-02-12

Geil PC2-6400 DDR2-800 Dual Channel Kit GX22GB6400UDC
I run them at 900MHz, CAS 4-4-4-12

By neo_rtr at 2008-03-08

Water Cooled solution is based on the following parts

- D-TEK FuZion CPU Accelerator Nozzle Kit
- D-TEK FuZion CPU
- Laing DDC-1T-PLUS
- Alphacool Laing DDC Pro/Ultra top
- Feser One - F1 - Cooling Fluid - UV Blue
- ClearFLEX 60 Premium 3/8 ID
- ATX PSU Starter 20pin
- ThermoChill PA120.3
- 1/4 BSPP 3/8 D-TEK Hi-Flow studs
- Cape Coolplex Pro 25

The replacement part will be a
• 2 x EK-Backplate Mosfet ASUS 1, 3, 3a
• FuZion Intel 775 Pro-Mount Set
• 1 x MCH034 Northbridge
• 1 x MCH003 Southbridge
• 2 x MCH150 Mosfet

Will look something like this



It has been said by MIPS that the fittings should be ¼” and the threads should have max. 5mm, if your fittings are longer than 5mm, then must use the distance rings which are included to every freezer.
Thus the of the HI-Flow Hose Barb - 3/8" (G-1/4" Thread) with the following specifications Thread Length: 4.5mm (.18") should fit and the distance rings are not needed.

http://www.dtekcustoms.com/ProductIm.../DT-G14-38.jpg
HI-Flow Hose Barb - 3/8" (G-1/4" Thread)
Chrome Plated Brass with O-ring retention groove
• Barb Size OD: 3/8" (11.2mm at largest point)
• Barb Size ID: 7.9mm (.31")
• Thread Size: G-1/4"
• Material: Chrome Plated Brass
• Thread Length: 4.5mm (.18")
• Total Length: 30mm (1.18")
• Recommended Tubing: 3/8" ID

1 x MCH034 Northbridge Freezer with 2 Distance rings
Northbridge Freezer:
Dimension bottom plate: 60 x 45 mm
Dimension: 60 x 45 x 10mm (L x B x H)
Weight: ~127g
Bottom plate: 5mm
Platting: Brass 5mm
Thread Size: 1/4´´

1 x MCH003 Southbridge Freezer with 2 Distance rings
Southbridge Freezer:
Footpoint bottomplate: 40 x 38,5mm
Dimensions: 49,5 x 40 x 14mm (L x B x H)
Weight: ~117g
Bottomplate: 5mm
Platting: Brass 5mm
Thread Size: 1/4´´

2 x MCH150 Mosfet Freezer in with 4 Distance rings
Mosfet Freezer:
Footpoint bottom plate: 75 x 16mm
Dimensions: 90 x 17 x 15 mm (L x B x H )
Weight: ~123g
Bottomplate: 5mm
distance plate: Brass 5mm
Platting: Brass 5mm
Thread Size: 1/4´´

The side panel of a Stacker 832 is able to fit 4 fans. Iam using the latest from Noctua NF-P12 120x120x25 mm 1300 RPM 92,3 m³/h 19,8 dB(A) 1,68 mm H2O
Note: I had to cut a small piece of the side panel as it was hitting on the PA120.3 Noctua fans


By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-24

I also plan to use Revoltec Fan-Adapter 80-120mm 2x on the side panel.
The configuration will be: Top 2 to exhaust. Lower 2 Intake with Fan adapter. Given the fact that the motherboard is inverted the CPU is at the lower end thus the BFG 8800GTX OC is placed near the top back fan, exhaust and the hot air is taking straight out of the case.

Same fans have been used on the PA 120.3

By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-17

Front Intake i have one more Noctua and the one fan from Stacker832 with a fanduct


By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-20

The Top 4-in-3 Device Module has the 2x HDD with 2x Coolink Silent Savior 80mm


By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-20

Current Status:
Iam waiting for some parts to arrive before i can proceed further.

In the mean time if you have suggestions for removing the fusion block pls PM me.

[Talonman]

Nice job, and I have to believe your upgrades will pay off for you.

[jabski]

nice build neo

[neo_rtr]

Current Status:
Iam waiting for some parts to arrive before i can proceed further.
It is interesting to discover that building a PC requires parts from 4 or 5 different countries.
At the time been, i have the following on order due to the fact that sourcing them locally was not possible.

FuZion Intel 775 Pro-Mount Set
http://www.dtekcustoms.com/index.asp

Retention backplate for Mosfet ASUS 1, 3, 3a water blocks.
http://ekwaterblocks.com/

ASUS Maximus Freezer Set
http://www.mips-computer.de/index.htm

Revoltec - Cold Cathode Twin-Set, 100mm, Blue
Revoltec - Fan-Adapter 80mm -> 120mm, UV Blue
http://www.shg.biz/
( I just have to do that “night rider Kitt” style) Already having Cold Cathode Twin-Set 300mm that planning to place under the chassi by the radiator to pimp my ride!!

1/4 BSPP 3/8 D-TEK Hi-Flow studs
ClearFLEX 60 Premium 3/8 ID
Feser One - F1 - Cooling Fluid - UV Blue
Feser Aqua - FA - Ultra Pure Water
http://www.vcore.dk

Arctic Silver ArctiClean 1 & 2
http://www.komplett.se

I did made the misstake and did not prepare my shopping list, resulting to some last minute purchases with additional shipping cost.

I also believe it is fare to mention that the service and support provide from Vcore and MIPS has been excellent.

[neo_rtr]

Today i was very excited as i received the package with the freezers.
Nicely packaged sent by airmail. From the day of purchase door to door 4 days! Excelent.
Each freezer is nicely packed in a air bubble bag.

By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-14


By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-14

Before I start I notice that the bottom place is not mirror like. This is the same for all freezers.

This is the Southbridge freezer

By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-14

Nice copper with 2 distance rings and plastic washers.

It has been said that: the fittings should be ¼” and the threads should have max. 5mm, if your fittings are longer than 5mm, then must use the distance rings which are included to every freezer.
Thus the of the HI-Flow Hose Barb - 3/8" (G-1/4" Thread) with the following specifications Thread Length: 4.5mm (.18") should fit and the distance rings are not needed.

Now that i try it on this happens

By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-14

The one with out the distance ring is not airtight. meaning that i must use the distance ring, who by the way was a prastic ring. So one side fits the freezers and the other from the barb the ditance ring.


By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-14

[neo_rtr]

Forgot to mention that
For the Mosfets you will need the pads from the original fusion block
For the Northbridge you will need the backplate and the screws from the original fusion block.
For the Southbridge screws, washers are provided.

[headala]

Great pics; thanks for sharing.

Please let us know how the performance is.

I especially like the "Nickel Impression" MIPS blocks

[Talonman]

Not many of us have got a real good look at these blocks yet...

I think more than a few of us will be watching to see how your build turnes out.

Keep up the fine job, and thanks for the good documentation too.

So to recap, are you saying your last NB picture is going to be the way you install it, or will you need 1 distance ring on each barb?

[dude_500]

That will be awesome! I have that board but I'm still using stock SB and MosFET's. I have an MCW30 on the north bridge. I just pulled out 2 of the 4 screws holding the clamps on and cut off 1 mm from the ends of them and put them in to hold the base in but let the clamps swing free. Then it can go up to almost a 4.5" span

[neo_rtr]

I examine the barb and the "base" of the freezer. MIPS is correct when saying that the threads should have max. 5mm
The total lenght should be 5mm.
Meaning that i measure the lenght of the screw it self that is 4,5mm
now if you take into account that the thread (or screw part) is self, of the thread is 4,5mm + 2mm distance + 0.5mm of the O-ring it comes to 7mm total lenght is 7mm
So YES must use the Distance Rings that MIPS supplied


By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-15

Edit: should read aprox 2,5mm

By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-15

Probably the G1/4 to 3/8 Sort fitting bard is the one to use if you dont want to use the distance ring. Will need someone to confirm the lenght of the Thread
The closest i can get to is the EK G1/4 to 3/8" Short Fitting Barb but not been able to find the dimension of the thread in mm

[neo_rtr]

Northbidge

By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-15

- Here you can take a look on the inside.

Mosfet

By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-15

- Here you can take a look on the inside.

and again with barb (but with out the distance ring) Also notice that the screw will be going from underneath the motherbord

By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-15

- CloseUp

By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-15

[neo_rtr]

Base Finish and Flatness . The surface is pretty smooth
Could not get the reflection some of us are used to.
Maybe some lapping here will give a minus degree more??

Northbridge base finish

By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-15

[headala]

Doesn't have to be a mirror, it just has to be flat. But lapping it will tell you if it's flat or not by the wear patterns at the beginning.

[neo_rtr]

I wouldn't mess with it, should be fine the way it is. For something like the NB, flatness is the most imortnat thing. And I would think as well as MIBs machines ther stuff, it's very flat. Just make sure you rub some TIM into the blocks surface before you mount.

Very nice stuff by the way, I've always liked their brass top plates.

andyc

Thanks for the post. No iam not going to lapp the surface.

[neo_rtr]

Custom made backplate for the Southbridge.
IT is in fact the AMD one from the D-Tek fusion , just cut it on my kitchen table and drilled it with a 3mm drill.


By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-15

I believe that b efore i start the build to "fix it (better looks)" but if not it fits as it is..

[neo_rtr]

Great pics; thanks for sharing.

Please let us know how the performance is.

I especially like the "Nickel Impression" MIPS blocks

The Nickel Blocks should have the following part nr's

ASUS Chipset Freezer Nickel MCH1003
ASUS MAXIMUS Chipset Freezer Nickel MCH1034
ASUS Maximus Mosfet Freezer Nickel MCH1150 (you need 2pcs)

Or you can get the "SET" with part nr MCH1415 at 159,90€

[evil-98]

oh man for a second i read that you cut the mount with a kitchen knife LOL

the freezer looks awesome i like the brass, i bet your board ways a ton now.

[neo_rtr]

Iam waiting for parts to arrive before i can proceed further.
In the mean time i am trying to find information about "how to remove the fusion block"
There are several good posts out there about it. The general idea is "heat it" but also "cold it" has been proven to work, but most likely heat it is the preffered method. The use of a flat screwdriver to loosed up the NB, SB, solder iron, hair dryer, artic cleaner 1 between chip and heatsink, etc.
as i have no experience on this will document my try as well.
ps: my board hs been running since dec07 so i dont know how hard it will be to remove the fusion block,

[Talonman]

Good luck neo... You already know my stance I'm sure.

Heat fan, and Acetone.

[neo_rtr]

FuZion Intel 775 Pro-Mount Set


By neo_rtr at 2008-02-18

Retention backplate for Mosfet ASUS 1, 3, 3a water blocks.
http://ekwaterblocks.com/


By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-18

[neo_rtr]

Talonman was kind to provide a collection of posts regarding the removal of the Removal of Fusion Block
Many thanks to all the guys that contribute with much effort to this collection.

This is all the posts I can find on the matter:
My advice on the removal of the stock ROG cooling:
It took me a good 10 minutes with the hair dryer, warming the heat sink, before the stock goop let me gently wiggle the ROG cooling free.
Remove the 4 screws and all pins before starting. The entire cooling rig is all connected, and will want to move as 1 big unit.
You will need to make sure to give the SB some heat too. It has to let go at the same time that the NB does.
Never pull up! Just gently wiggle side to side. It will start to move when it's ready. Pulling up can cause your NB'es IHS to come off too. Most of us like it on, and think it works well with waterblocks.
Ware a glove as the sink get's hot with the hair dryer's heat blowing on it.
Mine was coaxed off successfully.
Try to avoid over heating the mobo if possible. Mabey use a towel as a heat shield for the chips?
The stock goop will be semi-molten when it slides free. It is the ideal time to use some acetone to clean the rest off.


From Malik:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...4&postcount=96 click for pictures

Below are some pics showing the removal of the N/S bridge heat sinks. With the help of cadaveca I came up with the idea of refrigerating the Maximus Formula MB (with the plastic covering)for 3 hours in order to remove the north/south bridge heat sinks. Heat didn't loosens the thermal compound found on this motherboard for me but cold temperatures did. Once the board was chilled for 3 hours the north/south bridge heat sinks popped right off without any real force. I offer this advice as a possible solution for removing bonded type of thermal compound from the north/south bridge heat sinks. Please keep in mind that applying either heat or cold or both temperatures can damage your motherboard. You try this at your own risk.


NB.



NB HS.


SB.



SB HS.

Sidenote:
This method is not for everyone and you do so at your own risk.

Why we should re-paste everything.I re-pasted everything with MX-2 [/B]



To remove the heatsink i used a compressed air can,turn it upside down and spray the top of the heat sink for like 8-10 seconds a liquid should come out making the sink very cold, so cold it should come right out,sure beats waiting for it in the fridge

just figured id point this out, look at how little contact area the TIM is making to the stock NB heatpipe cooler

I had to pri the heat pipe off of the south bridge so i could remove the north bridge. its very easy to pop off i might add.

[QUOTE=awhir;2596002]

From systemviper
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...90&postcount=1



This is the post from CLUNK
with the following note
UPDATE 18-10-07: CAUTION! - I have seen a couple of people damage their boards so far because the thermal cement that Asus use is just too strong. See this post for what can happen if you aren't careful enough. If possible, remove the fusion block and replace the thermal cement on the NB and SB BEFORE you fire the board up for the first time. The cement seems to harden and cure when it gets hot, so be aware of that.

So, I started by removing the Fusion block - it came off with a small amount of pressure. I used a small pair of fine nosed angled pliers. I covered the area close to the NB with masking tape, so the PCB wouldn't get scratched if there was any slippage, and gently used the angled nose of the pliers to lever up the block. Start at one corner and work your way along and you should hear the cement give way as you get to the next corner. The SB came off at the same time for me, but if not, just use the same method, and take your time.
http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/723-post10.html

And here when things went wrong by RevolutionX
http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/1330-post164.html

I just wanted to further confirm that removal of the NB heatsink on the Maximus Formula (non-SE) was a snap with the circuit freeze spray as was stated earlier. I sprayed it on the SB and the heatsink came loose on its own. The NB I sprayed for about 3-4 minutes and pryed it gently with a screwdriver and it popped right off. I've been using my MB for a month prior to removal of the NB heatsink. The freeze spray costs 8 bucks at Radio Shack or Fry's electronics. I also reused the backplate of the NB by removing the bolts with a plyer and widening the holes a little with a drill. I used the SB heatsink as a backplate for the SB. I used the rubber washers that were allready on the SB and extra plastic washers to ensure that there was enough space between the backplate, the PCB, and the motherboard tray. The cement was removed easily from the NB and SB with acetone as someone stated earlier.

[neo_rtr]

I started taking off the 4 screws around the Northbridge and then i removed with a bent long noise plier the plastic pins from the south bridge and the mosfets

Removing the plastic pin off the mosfet
I did the following press it with the noisetip and with my fingernail press it again to come out from the other side.

By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20

Removing the South/North Bridge

I started with a COMPRESSED AIR CAN to cool it down. Besides the fact that it came all over did do a thing. Both chips are rocksolid and nothing i did made it better.
At the time i try to put dentalfloss between the heatsink and the chipset to see if there is a gap so i could try that first. Well that did not work.
Then i tried to move it sidewise. nope that did not helped either.
I tried to put a plastic card and see if i could get anywhere under the heatsink but as the space is limited came up empty handed.

Took the hairdryer and sterted with it. after several minutes i trought give it a go.. BIG Nothing. either chips didnt want to move a mm.

Back to the aircan. with the MB inverted pressed for several secs and in did it become very cold. Then again try to move it sideways.nothing.

After spending about 1 hour trying to cold.warm,cold etc i was ready to give up.
then .....

I cut a piece of a credit card.put it between the MB and the heat sink. again some with the aircan to get it cold and then put the tip of the screwdriver and with a twist i heard the CRACK!!! resulting to 5 years of my life scared sh...less.
But to my big surprise the SB come off!!!
So i did the same for the NB with the same crack and 5 more years gone,

By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20



By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20


By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20

Apparently the thermalp ast ASUS is using was rock solid. Pieces that i removed after where hard like stone and did not gave much to heat.
Remember that i been using the MB since Dec07 about 3months solid.

The SB ws removed clean with very few traces of the thermal paste.
The NB was few spots what i tried to clean with ArticClean 1,2 with no luck. After about 1hours used aceton and it removed in a sec.
This brings me to the point. IF it was posible to put some aceton between the chips and the heatsink it would make life much easier to remove them. Just need a way to get it there.

[neo_rtr]

I used the thermalpad from the original mosfets and installed the MIPS freezers with backplates from EK.
the screws provided by MIPS fit with the backplates.


By neo_rtr at 2008-02-20

The Northbridge
Used the original backplate and screws to install it. fits perfect.

By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20
Also take a look at the SB, IT come below the VGA and gives plenty of space for the tubbing. 3/8 iam using



By neo_rtr at 2008-02-20


By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20

backplates

By neo_rtr at 2008-02-20
All of them worked of just fine..


By neo_rtr at 2008-02-20

[neo_rtr]

Well I will go from the following loop.
PA120.3 Mosfet1->Mosfet2->CPU->NB->SB->tank->pump
the reason it that it just fits the iverted MB better in my case.

By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20

the gtx8800oc is and will not be WC. maybe in the future
What you need to look is how nice the SB and the tubbing fits.

By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20

There is enough space and the tubbing is not getting on the vga

By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20

In place and ready for test!!

By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20

By neo_rtr at 2008-02-20

[TopherTony]

I love MIPS as well. Here are some photos from my sig build. On an evga 680i. Too bad the board cant do the blocks justice