X

    Subscribe to New Ads!

    Receive weekly ads in your inbox!



Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 26 to 50 of 68

Thread: Why you should use biocide pt. 2 **WARNING: graphic!** also, pump disintegration...

  1. #26
    Xtreme Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    150
    The state of the impeller reminds me of when a radiator is added to a loop without having water run through it to clean the inside and then you get those shavings inside the loop from inside the radiator. I've seen those slowly act as an abrasive on pumps before and start to whittle down the pumps impeller.

    Sure looks nasty inside, this is one reason I go for transparent acrylic blocks on my graphics cards (EK 480 Nickel) and Transparent Pump Tops (XSPC DCC+ Top). I can clearly see what's going on with regards to algae.

  2. #27
    Xtreme X.I.P.
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Bend, Oregon
    Posts
    5,693
    I would clean it all up and run it again. There isn't anything mechanically lost in the pump from what I can see. As long as the two bearing surfaces are still good at the ceramic white ball and the impeller vanes are in tack..a little surface scuffing should affect performance at all. If you wan you could probably even use some light sand paper to smooth out the outside of the impeller.

    Not sure what chemicals are ok, but as long as it doesn't attack the plastics or metals, it should be fine to clean with as long as you neutralize and rise it well in the end.

    Getting a hose barb for your faucet would probably be helpful too:


    You can find these at most home improvement centers, helpful for flushing.

  3. #28
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    33
    Quote Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post
    I would clean it all up and run it again. There isn't anything mechanically lost in the pump from what I can see. As long as the two bearing surfaces are still good at the ceramic white ball and the impeller vanes are in tack..a little surface scuffing should affect performance at all. If you wan you could probably even use some light sand paper to smooth out the outside of the impeller.

    Not sure what chemicals are ok, but as long as it doesn't attack the plastics or metals, it should be fine to clean with as long as you neutralize and rise it well in the end.

    Getting a hose barb for your faucet would probably be helpful too:


    You can find these at most home improvement centers, helpful for flushing.

    Martin, but isn't tap water not safe, warm or not, since it contains lots of minerals?

    How safe is that? Especially when you're mixing metals in your loop.
    Don't think that is such a great idea. Sure it's convenient, but not safe.
    Last edited by daedao; 05-01-2011 at 07:20 AM.

  4. #29
    Xtreme Guru
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Latvia, Riga
    Posts
    3,959
    daedao: but it's at great flow/pressure, and for sure will wash out more residue from whatever left in rad from soldering or from rad usage from whatever algae usage or those LC premixes, then it will leave on it's own from minerals dissolved in tap water. And you can rinse after tap water with distilled.

  5. #30
    Xtreme Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    France
    Posts
    950
    It's like when you clean your car, you rinse with demineralized in order to avoid stains when the droplets dry up.

    24/7 running quiet and nice

  6. #31
    Xtreme X.I.P.
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Bend, Oregon
    Posts
    5,693
    Quote Originally Posted by daedao View Post
    Martin, but isn't tap water not safe, warm or not, since it contains lots of minerals?

    How safe is that? Especially when you're mixing metals in your loop.
    Don't think that is such a great idea. Sure it's convenient, but not safe.
    Do you think the radiator and block manufacturers are flushing with distilled water?

    Do you think the water used in their flushing process is even potable water?

    I highly doubt it....the whole water purity push is all marketing from those selling you double distilled ultra pure snake oil.

    There is also nothing to stop you from running some distilled down there after the initial scrub. Mineral deposits are not going to happen in an hours time.

    I've used tap water for testing and flushing for years, never had an issue. I wouldn't suggest it for filling a system, but I've tried that too (filtered). The problem is not everyone's tap water is exactly the same quality.

    Regardless, I think we would all be horrified if we saw the water quality in those radiator plants and we worry about potable tap water minerals?

    I wouldn't worry about it...just flush with some distilled afterwards...

  7. #32
    Chasing After Diety
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Absolutely Speachless :O
    Posts
    11,929
    Quote Originally Posted by Sparky View Post
    Uh oh it looks like I had a major problem with my pump and I didn't even realize it... the stuff isn't just algae slime, there are PLASTIC SHAVINGS all over the thing and the edges of the impeller are rough (
    its platicizer sparky..

    nothing to freak out about... and it was most likely in solution until u drained it, where though friction it got deposited on the walls.

    Quote Originally Posted by daedao View Post
    Martin, but isn't tap water not safe, warm or not, since it contains lots of minerals?

    How safe is that? Especially when you're mixing metals in your loop.
    Don't think that is such a great idea. Sure it's convenient, but not safe.
    to wash, its fine..

    i do it all the time, because you wont get 60psi though anything but city water line.
    And you will require that much psi at times to push lodged stuff out.

    Its important that you rince tho.

    As martin said, it has a lot to do with your city water supply.
    If you live in france where its heavily flourated, i wouldnt risk rincing anything out.

    If u have hard water, once again, calcium despoits are a PITFA, so i rince out.

    I would never fill with city tap water tho, over time if u let it out, it starts to smell bad.
    That itself should tell you the quality of water.

    Now if i lived in Des Moines, Iowa; Austin, Texas; and Sioux Falls, S.D., i wouldnt mind using TAP water as long as i kept it topped off, and flushed frequently..... As those cities probably have the cleanest tap water.
    Last edited by NaeKuh; 05-01-2011 at 10:38 AM.
    Nadeshiko: i7 990 12GB DDR3 eVGA Classified *In Testing... Jealous? *
    Miyuki: W3580 6GB DDR3 P6T-Dlx
    Lind: Dual Gainestown 3.07
    Sammy: Dual Yonah Sossoman cheerleader. *Sammy-> Lind.*

    [12:37] skinnee: quit helping me procrastinate block reviews, you asshat. :p
    [12:38] Naekuh: i love watching u get the firing squad on XS
    Its my fault.. and no im not sorry about it either.

  8. #33
    I am Xtreme-ly Unemployed
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Palmdale, CA USA
    Posts
    1,935
    Sparky, try using Weiman Instant Tarnish Remover on the copper blocks after scrubbing any loose biomass out of the blocks--it should completely strip them (I've had a FuZion base go black before without any sort of scrubbing-removable deposit being present). Keep in mind that this stuff will also strip any sort of anti-tarnish coating off as well, wear gloves, neutralize with dish soap and running water. It's worth a shot as a last resort.

    As for the "black plastic shavings" you were noticing, my first thought would be to check the carbon bearing seat (the cup that the ceramic bearing pops into on the underside of the rotor)... aside from that, NaeKuh may be right.

    Rubycon's H2O2 suggestion is interesting... something I haven't tried before.

    Q-Tips, toothbrushes, and 99% IPA should do a pretty good job cleaning up most of the other parts (like the POM block internals, fittings, pump internals, etc.). Just keep the IPA away from tubing, seals, and anything acrylic and rinse all parts thoroughly after cleaning with IPA. Most people freak out over the use of IPA but, provided that appropriate precautions are taken, it can be used safely.

    As a side note, most of the DDC impellers will disassemble with a simple twisting motion, requiring very little effort:

    Quote Originally Posted by Petra
    Correct, the pins are for balancing... however, the 2-piece impellers in the DDC-3's aren't glued. A counter-clockwise twist will allow you to remove to top portion for service/cleaning and it snaps back into place with a clockwise twist. Granted, I'm not sure why the OP's would have done that while in operation... unless, perhaps, the upper portion of the impeller wasn't installed properly at the factory or something.

    The old DDC-2 impellers, on the other hand, are either really tight or glued--they have the same internal latch setup but I've never been able to get any of my DDC-2 impellers to budge... every DDC-3.x I've tried could be disassembled very easily.

    There are 6 tabs on the inside of the upper portion of the impeller which snap into cutouts on the lower portion of the impeller (I've marked both with arrows below).


    I'm doing science and I'm still alive...

  9. #34
    Xtremely High Voltage Sparky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Ohio, USA
    Posts
    16,048
    I scrubbed the top of the impeller real good (still dark gunk on it) but the plastic doesn't look bad. I think it'll be OK, if I can get it clean. Same with blocks and radiator. I'm going to buy some radiator flush at the auto store and see if that helps.

    Petra, I tried the twisting motion on the impeller and all it did was cut my hand How much force does it take to get this daggone thing apart lol.
    The Cardboard Master
    Crunch with us, the XS WCG team
    Intel Core i7 2600k @ 4.5GHz, 16GB DDR3-1600, Radeon 7950 @ 1000/1250, Win 10 Pro x64

  10. #35
    I am Xtreme-ly Unemployed
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Palmdale, CA USA
    Posts
    1,935
    Quote Originally Posted by Sparky View Post
    Petra, I tried the twisting motion on the impeller and all it did was cut my hand How much force does it take to get this daggone thing apart lol.
    Like I said, usually it takes very little effort to remove the upper portion of the two piece impeller... I did encounter the occasional stubborn DDC-3.x (and they would cut me up a tiny bit), but the only ones I could never manage were the orange/red impellered DDC-2s.
    I'm doing science and I'm still alive...

  11. #36
    Xtremely High Voltage Sparky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Ohio, USA
    Posts
    16,048
    Figures I have to have a really stuck one.
    The Cardboard Master
    Crunch with us, the XS WCG team
    Intel Core i7 2600k @ 4.5GHz, 16GB DDR3-1600, Radeon 7950 @ 1000/1250, Win 10 Pro x64

  12. #37
    Xtreme Addict
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    1,171
    this thread has to be one of the most extreme instances of algae I've ever seen. Yuck.

    The strong hydrogen peroxide sounds like an excellent idea, though I'm not sure where you would buy it.

    I've used DOW Scrubbing Bubbles and radiator flush on a number of occasions. The Scrubbing Bubbles are good about getting stuff out of the rad. I just squirt the rad full, let sit for 10-15 min, flush, and rinse. I would think if you do this a few times coupled with some radiator flush, it should do the trick.

    Martin's idea of doing a force flush afterwards would be a good idea. Ive done that many times also with rads while hooked up to the kitchen faucet. I do follow with a distilled rinse to get the tap water out.

    Even with all of this, you may want to run an inline filter for a bit once you put it all together and crank it up.

  13. #38
    Xtreme Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    102
    Wow, that's the worst looking loop I think I've ever seen. I'd flush everything out like there was no tomorrow and only stop when it's 100% clear.
    Watercooled Murdermod Silverstone TJ07
    Asus P8P67 Deluxe B3
    Intel Core i7 2600K
    8GB G.Skill DDR3 1600Mhz
    eVGA 480 GTX SLI
    8.5TB (1x Seagate 1TB 7200.12, 2x Hitachi 3TB, 1x Seagate 1.5TB 7200.11)
    Corsair AX1200 PSU All Custom Cables
    Westinghouse 24" 1920x1200
    Windows 7

  14. #39
    Xtreme Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    613
    I'm so Glad none of you saw my old Koolance or Thermaltake big water then : ).

    this wasn't as bad... hahaha
    If your annoyed by sigs telling you to put things in your sig, then put this in your sig
    you know you're addicted to watercooling when:
    Quote Originally Posted by Onoff312 View Post
    You started with a $200-400 budget and have ended up spending over $1000-2000

  15. #40
    Xtreme Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    271
    Quote Originally Posted by voigts View Post

    The strong hydrogen peroxide sounds like an excellent idea, though I'm not sure where you would buy it.
    https://shoppingcart.purehealthsyste...tegory-s/3.htm

    If you're unfamiliar with handing this material, please research it carefully BEFORE acquiring it!

  16. #41
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    85
    Even though it isn't needed, I have an unstoppable desire to spray scrubbing bubbles all over my bathroom

    Happy Cleaning.
    QuagsQube: i7-980x / SLi GTX680 / Rampage III Formula / 6GB PC12800 / AX1200 / U2-UFO Case / RealSSD C300 128GB / X25m G2 80GB / 6010x1080 res / Watercooled
    Laptop: G73JH-A1

  17. #42
    Xtreme Addict
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Aland Islands, Finland
    Posts
    1,139
    Quote Originally Posted by Rubycon View Post
    https://shoppingcart.purehealthsyste...tegory-s/3.htm

    If you're unfamiliar with handing this material, please research it carefully BEFORE acquiring it!
    Might as well buy a new rad for that price
    Asus Crosshair IV Extreme
    AMD FX-8350
    AMD ref. HD 6950 2Gb x 2
    4x4Gb HyperX T1
    Corsair AX1200
    3 x Alphacool triple, 2 x Alphacool ATXP 6970/50, EK D5 dual top, EK Supreme HF

  18. #43
    Xtreme Addict
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    1,783
    Quote Originally Posted by Sparky View Post
    Well the biocide I mean to use it silver. It's working beautifully in my other rig.

    I can't even seem to get the two waterblocks clean, and those I can scrub. How am I going to get the radiator clean?? I might have to replace everything. I can't afford that

    Does anyone have any idea what happened to cause the impeller of the pump to be killing itself like this? Up until I took it apart the pump's been running great, flow has been amazing. Temps were getting worse but that's due to the coating all over everything.... Oh man this sucks so bad
    Well, I use a submersible pump and depending how bad will pump water + bleach and then water + clr, finally flush with water (just tap water) all right in the kitchen sink. If you're paranoid you could flush with distilled but it's not caused me any problems. After a while it will take most of that black crap right off. The stubborn parts I just use a toothbrush and dish soap. Don't ask how I know :-)


    The setup is pretty easy and the pumps can be found at your local do-it-yourself store. The lower block in the pic below had some black gunk in it and the process above cleaned it all out -- this is at the end of the cycle just pumping clean water through it for about a hour or so.

    Last edited by Vinas; 05-02-2011 at 04:56 AM. Reason: added pic
    Current: AMD Threadripper 1950X @ 4.2GHz / EK Supremacy/ 360 EK Rad, EK-DBAY D5 PWM, 32GB G.Skill 3000MHz DDR4, AMD Vega 64 Wave, Samsung nVME SSDs
    Prior Build: Core i7 7700K @ 4.9GHz / Apogee XT/120.2 Magicool rad, 16GB G.Skill 3000MHz DDR4, AMD Saphire rx580 8GB, Samsung 850 Pro SSD

    Intel 4.5GHz LinX Stable Club

    Crunch with us, the XS WCG team

  19. #44
    Xtreme Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    319
    Wow dude, your tubing was a completely different color and you waited that long to clean the loop.....? I think I'll cut my losses if my stuff is that bad when I rebuild in 3 months. But my tubing hasnt changed colors in a year in a half and my water is still crystal clear so I think I'll be ok.
    MM H2gO - Win 7 Pro
    2 PA120.2 Thermochill
    MCP355 w/XSPC res top
    i5-2500k @ 5.0ghz w/Heatkiller 3.0
    Corsair HX850 - M IV Gene-z
    GTX 480 w/DD 480 ni/cu

  20. #45
    I am Xtreme
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Grande Prairie, AB, CAN
    Posts
    6,127
    Quote Originally Posted by Wolf132 View Post
    Wow dude, your tubing was a completely different color and you waited that long to clean the loop.....? I think I'll cut my losses if my stuff is that bad when I rebuild in 3 months. But my tubing hasnt changed colors in a year in a half and my water is still crystal clear so I think I'll be ok.
    What are you using for tubing?

  21. #46
    Xtremely High Voltage Sparky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Ohio, USA
    Posts
    16,048
    Quote Originally Posted by Wolf132 View Post
    Wow dude, your tubing was a completely different color and you waited that long to clean the loop.....? I think I'll cut my losses if my stuff is that bad when I rebuild in 3 months. But my tubing hasnt changed colors in a year in a half and my water is still crystal clear so I think I'll be ok.
    I thought it was just algae slime on the inside of the tubes, you know, where light could get to it...

    Yes, it was stupid to leave it go that long /facepalm But what's done is done.

    I'm going to pick up radiator flush stuff today and see what I can do with that stuff.

    I'm almost thinking that the stuff on the pump impeller I don't want to worry about too much - I mean seriously, if I can't scrub it off with a brush and hot soapy water, what are the odds of it just coming off while in warm distilled water? But that also seems like a bad idea too, so no clue yet what I'm going to do with it yet. I'm going to focus on the radiator and blocks first, then worry about the pump.
    The Cardboard Master
    Crunch with us, the XS WCG team
    Intel Core i7 2600k @ 4.5GHz, 16GB DDR3-1600, Radeon 7950 @ 1000/1250, Win 10 Pro x64

  22. #47
    Chasing After Diety
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Absolutely Speachless :O
    Posts
    11,929
    do the hail mary.

    Get mouthwash.. and no im not kidding, and pour it inside your rad.

    The Alcohol concentration should disolve any organic matter it contains, and leave a nice fresh minty smell to it. lol...

    At this point i think even a rad flush might not work properly so im gonna go recomend a heavy oxide, like alcohol.

    The rad should be safe from alcohol.
    Nadeshiko: i7 990 12GB DDR3 eVGA Classified *In Testing... Jealous? *
    Miyuki: W3580 6GB DDR3 P6T-Dlx
    Lind: Dual Gainestown 3.07
    Sammy: Dual Yonah Sossoman cheerleader. *Sammy-> Lind.*

    [12:37] skinnee: quit helping me procrastinate block reviews, you asshat. :p
    [12:38] Naekuh: i love watching u get the firing squad on XS
    Its my fault.. and no im not sorry about it either.

  23. #48
    Xtreme Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    452
    Biocide overkill me thinks

    I did the same thing in my 1st loop. You really only need 2 drops no joke.
    Current Rig - Sandy H20 - i2600k @ 4.6ghz - P8P67 Deluxe - 8 GB DDR3 1600 - - Custom H20 Kit - DD Moonsoon - GTZ - Swiftech 360 - D5- 2x GTX 460 in Sli - Corsair TX850W - Corsair 800 D - Loving Life

  24. #49
    Xtremely High Voltage Sparky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Ohio, USA
    Posts
    16,048
    Quote Originally Posted by NaeKuh View Post
    do the hail mary.

    Get mouthwash.. and no im not kidding, and pour it inside your rad.

    The Alcohol concentration should disolve any organic matter it contains, and leave a nice fresh minty smell to it. lol...

    At this point i think even a rad flush might not work properly so im gonna go recomend a heavy oxide, like alcohol.

    The rad should be safe from alcohol.
    LOL really? That sounds... interesting

    Quote Originally Posted by Quad-Damage View Post
    Biocide overkill me thinks

    I did the same thing in my 1st loop. You really only need 2 drops no joke.
    No that's not it. I had NO biocide in this loop. I've had too much before in my first loop and it just made things a little murky and funny, nothing like this at all.
    The Cardboard Master
    Crunch with us, the XS WCG team
    Intel Core i7 2600k @ 4.5GHz, 16GB DDR3-1600, Radeon 7950 @ 1000/1250, Win 10 Pro x64

  25. #50
    Xtreme Legend
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Plymouth (UK)
    Posts
    5,285
    Quote Originally Posted by NaeKuh View Post
    do the hail mary.

    Get mouthwash.. and no im not kidding, and pour it inside your rad.

    The Alcohol concentration should disolve any organic matter it contains, and leave a nice fresh minty smell to it. lol...

    At this point i think even a rad flush might not work properly so im gonna go recomend a heavy oxide, like alcohol.

    The rad should be safe from alcohol.
    The other one that I heard about, but have not tried yet, is.....

    Tablets/solutions for cleaning (by soaking) dentures


    My Biggest Fear Is When I die, My Wife Sells All My Stuff For What I Told Her I Paid For It.
    79 SB threads and 32 IB Threads across 4 rigs 111 threads Crunching!!

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •