Project: Lian-Li P80 & PA140.3

[kgtiger]

Hay Gk I like your handy work with the HHD bracket, looks really good.
The Lian-Li casters look a bit like there from a skateboard
I have been reading up on the Koolance TMS-200 board and Koolance's TMS-EB200 Expansion Board and trying to compare them to the T-Balance mcubed bigNG/miniNGs Expansion Board.

At this stage I have still not made up my mind yet as to which one I will get.

Hi Arthur, I am sorry to hear for your loss, it's a trying time.
I have been through the loss of a family member just some two months ago, keep your head up mate.

Ive red the tests. You made it sound like the block was mediocre, when in fact i would put it side by side with the XT. The sub 1C difference is worth it in my eyes when you consider that the HK is much less restrictive than the XT. You can do the silicone mod on the HK and it would be in front of the XT while still beeing less restrictive. They both have theire pro's and con's, but dont make it loook like the HK is wastly inferior to the XT when in fact its not.

Thanks ExA for taking the time to read the testing that Vapor has done, he really has done some excellent work there.

However, I am not sure how you can say I made the HK block " sound like the block was mediocre" I in no means stated or gave the impression in any way that,
"the HK is wastly inferior to the XT".
I do admire your passion for the Heatkiller block. I do admit I was not happy to read that HK had lost the crown,
but are really looking forward to Watercool's new version of the HK when that finally happens.
At this point there is no retailer selling the HK in Australia(that I can find, PCCG did, but don't now) and at this point I will buy the HK block from overseas.

I did state that "thou HK may not be the coolest WC block, temps wise."
The HK is now the second best block for cooling CPUs, first place now goes to Swiftech Apogee XT"

This statement is correct, the HK block is second compared to the XT, as found in Vapor's review.

As to your statement "The sub 1C difference is worth it in my eyes when you consider that the HK is much less restrictive than the XT

Well this is also ture, to a point. In Vapor's graphs the HK is 0.19 GPM more restrictive than the XT. To me that is only a tad less restrictive.

As for the "silicone mod" I to agree it does help the Hk drop about 1C.
It also helps the XT in the same manner, (also found out by Vapor in the 10-20-2009 Swiftech Apogee XT test report) so the silicone mod works just as well for both blocks.
So as I see it the XT is the best block by 1C, but to me it really just comes down to looks with the HK.
As I stated " I still feel its the best looking"

Please feel free to write a reply to what I have written, however as this is GK's work log, with respect to him, I will not be post further comments on this matter.


Looking forward to your next update GK, as for testing the HK on the 775, I also have not seen any, also have not been looking either.

[Antioch]

Well, from a quick glance and a person who is also interested in picking up a controller - I feel that the koolance is the worst of the 3. Why? Simply because it offers 3 separate fan channels while the BigNG and Auqaero offer 4. The koolance does offer a "pump" channel, but I don't know if this can double as a 4th fan channel.

[aka_GK]

Hay Gk I like your handy work with the HHD bracket, looks really good.
The Lian-Li casters look a bit like there from a skateboard
I have been reading up on the Koolance TMS-200 board and Koolance's TMS-EB200 Expansion Board and trying to compare them to the T-Balance mcubed bigNG/miniNGs Expansion Board.

At this stage I have still not made up my mind yet as to which one I will get.

thanks
yep, they do, it is a good idea for somebody's rig to use skate wheels

I bought TMS-200 because it has enough power per channel to handle a pump without any tricks like powerboosters on aquaero. Only 3 channels for fans is no probs for me as I don't need more, in addition I have built-in case 2 channel controller which handles at least 3 fans per channel.
Moreover koolance board have full range of accessories needed (aquaero doesn't afaik)

Each chanel in TMS-200 can handle 24W, so we can say that there are 4 chanels like in aquaero and bigNG. Anyway at least one channel will be taken by pump, we are in liquid cooling section, aren't we?

Looking forward to your next update GK, as for testing the HK on the 775, I also have not seen any, also have not been looking either.

oh yeah, I have plans to test limits of my CPU soon and the weather favors

[Antioch]

Yes, perhaps. For my intentions though I'd like 4 separate channels so I can use 2 channels for each rad and give me a more flexible control over the fans. It may be the watercooling section, but I leave my pump on full and like to control the fans for maximum silence.

[kgtiger]

I bet you also plan to push/test that CPU to its limits, but whats that got to do with the weather, at -20C do you plan on going outside with it ?

As for the Koolance TMS 200 there is a 2amp limit per channel GK.

I just went to dsumanik review
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=225585, but I see you have also been there.

The more I look at it (TMS-200) the more I like it, I think I will also get the TMS-EB200 Expansion Board, as I need to buy it in from overseas,
I might as well go all out and get the optional Koolance INS-FM16 flow meter.
However I think I will use the AquaComputer inline temp sensor to monitor water temps.

[aka_GK]

I bet you also plan to push/test that CPU to its limits, but whats that got to do with the weather, at -20C do you plan on going outside with it ?

With balcony door opened I can easily get 10C room temperature

As for the Koolance TMS 200 there is a 2amp limit per channel GK.

I just went to dsumanik review
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=225585, but I see you have also been there.
The more I look at it (TMS-200) the more I like it, I think I will also get the TMS-EB200 Expansion Board, as I need to buy it in from overseas,
I might as well go all out and get the optional Koolance INS-FM16 flow meter.
However I think I will use the AquaComputer inline temp sensor to monitor water temps.

yep, isn't it the same?
P = U*I = 12V * 2A = 24W

As for the flow meter I guess FM-17 is better looking and less restrictive than FM-16, but more expensive too. I also think of getting one

Aquacomp temp sensor is good looking one, nice choice

Yes, perhaps. For my intentions though I'd like 4 separate channels so I can use 2 channels for each rad and give me a more flexible control over the fans. It may be the watercooling section, but I leave my pump on full and like to control the fans for maximum silence.

ok, it's each others'. I pursuing max silence too

[kgtiger]

AAARRR Damm! Man you are Totally right I did mean the INS-FM17, the, nice straight one, that looks just O so sexy, not the, chuck a Uee around the block INS-FM16 lets just restrict heaps of water flow sucky one.

My humble apology GK, You are now the man!

[.raw]

I think ive never seen a russian worklog bevore But this one is very nice i have to admit!

I really like the individual style of the cpu cooler and the color scheme

Keep up the nice work

[aka_GK]

I've managed to pass major part of tests and tasks in university and will have time to work here, I hope I'll please you with some test&overclocking setup pics/results soon

I bought two cans of Motip primer today and as I have no previous experience with it I would like to ask you some questions if you don't mind
1. You can see plastic primer on the right hand side, can I (and should I?) apply several layers of simple primer after plastic one? I am gonna paint pump case and it is a bit dented, I'd like to flatten it.
2. Should primer completely dry before applying next layer? for simple primer this time is 2 hours as it stated on the can.

I think ive never seen a russian worklog bevore But this one is very nice i have to admit!

I really like the individual style of the cpu cooler and the color scheme

Keep up the nice work

thanks, I hope result will not dissappoint you

[Arthur]

Hey @aka_GK,

How's the Moscow? Its gotta be freezing right now. We are waiting updates for new year mate, show us what you got down there bro.

Cheers,
Arthur

Edit: Damn, you are pretty fast actually.

[aka_GK]

Hey @aka_GK,

How's the Moscow? Its gotta be freezing right now. We are waiting updates for new year mate, show us what you got down there bro.

Cheers,
Arthur

Edit: Damn, you are pretty fast actually.

It is not that cold right now, especially comparing to the temps few days ago


I sincerely hope to receive NB fans before new year and assemble the rad, but aquatuning delivery is sooo slooow If not, I'll be able to get them only after January 10th because of very long russian New Year celebrations

[Raiden]

nice project !!!

Keep up the good work ..

[Arthur]

It is not that cold right now, especially comparing to the temps few days ago


I sincerely hope to receive NB fans before new year and assemble the rad, but aquatuning delivery is sooo slooow If not, I'll be able to get them only after January 10th because of very long russian New Year celebrations

Hey bro,

When there is cold like freezing to death, I have to do only a few options in my mind. Here's one of them LOL! They gotta be all fine on that temps what you got out there.



and of course



I giving you a bottle of Absolute which you wanted in new year bro. Cheers.

I do not know why Aquatuning has such a slow shipment time to you but it should be related with your location I suppose. I also hope to get my currently order before new year. And then I can start to modify my top panel and rad replacement at that time.

Your worklog will be fine, you just enjoy your new year mate.

Thanks,
Arthur

[shazza]

Congrats on doing well in school, aka_GK. I'm looking forward to your comments on the Koolance controller.

[kgtiger]

Hay GK, how dented, is dented?
As this primer, like all primers, is really only there to prep the surface to be painted, so when you do paint it (top coat/colour you want) it can stick better and also give better area coverage.
If you spray a light coat, let completly dry and sand back, it want really fill much of the dent.
The best stuff for dents and to fill scratches is automotive body filler, normaly just called bog. It a two part mix, really easy to use.
All car panal beaters use it (by the ton) to fill dents and imperfections. Once mixed up, fill the dents, let dry and sand back.

Have a very Marry Christmas and an excellent new year. Enjoy the long russian New Year celebrations my friend.
Be safe and throw a snow ball for me.
As Christmas day is looking like it's going to be 38 Deg c here in Perth.

[aka_GK]

nice project !!!

Keep up the good work ..

thanks, glad you like it

Hey bro,

When there is cold like freezing to death, I have to do only a few options in my mind. Here's one of them LOL! They gotta be all fine on that temps what you got out there.
<snip>
and of course
<snip>
I giving you a bottle of Absolute which you wanted in new year bro. Cheers.

I do not know why Aquatuning has such a slow shipment time to you but it should be related with your location I suppose. I also hope to get my currently order before new year. And then I can start to modify my top panel and rad replacement at that time.

Your worklog will be fine, you just enjoy your new year mate.

Thanks,
Arthur

haha thanks I've never tryed Absolut or Danzka, my favourite drinks for celebration are
and

Congrats on doing well in school, aka_GK. I'm looking forward to your comments on the Koolance controller.

Thanks Sharon, I'll try to provide with some info on this soon

Hay GK, how dented, is dented?
As this primer, like all primers, is really only there to prep the surface to be painted, so when you do paint it (top coat/colour you want) it can stick better and also give better area coverage.
If you spray a light coat, let completly dry and sand back, it want really fill much of the dent.
The best stuff for dents and to fill scratches is automotive body filler, normaly just called bog. It a two part mix, really easy to use.
All car panal beaters use it (by the ton) to fill dents and imperfections. Once mixed up, fill the dents, let dry and sand back.

Have a very Marry Christmas and an excellent new year. Enjoy the long russian New Year celebrations my friend.
Be safe and throw a snow ball for me.
As Christmas day is looking like it's going to be 38 Deg c here in Perth.

take a look at this, I've tryed to paint it as it is and this is what I ended up with (what a rhyme )


This dents are barely noticeable when plastic is not painted
I've heard about two-component filler but unfortunately I have no place near home to buy it.

Now I am going to sand all paint down and to think what I can do with this, It would be perfect if I manage to find filler.

And lucky you are with your weather
Snowy days are coming to Moscow - time to get my snowboard out of its package

[aka_GK]

Merry Christmas everybody and have happy New Year!
I wish to thank you for your feedback here, it is much appreciated

In Russia Christmas is celebrated at January 7th, that is why we work until December 30-31th and then have 10 vacation days


Small update:
Aquatuning rep in Moscow just said that my Noiseblocker fans and some other stuff arrived! I'll be able to get them before New year
stay tuned

[charles_h]

Fantastic work and amazing photos!

I really like your attention to detail and the enthusiastic energy you convey. Your work is a pleasure to follow and I enjoy the welcome addition of your cats.

Looking forward to following your future updates!

[aka_GK]

Fantastic work and amazing photos!

I really like your attention to detail and the enthusiastic energy you convey. Your work is a pleasure to follow and I enjoy the welcome addition of your cats.

Looking forward to following your future updates!

Hey Charles!
thanks for the kind words, I appreciate it

and you should know what I want from you still waiting for news about res holders

[aka_GK]

update time!

My inner voice recently sad to me, why the hell you're sitting on your butt and playing L4D2? Guys and girls at XS are clicking refresh button and waiting for something interesting! So I went to my frosted balcony and

quickly sanded HDD mount,


primed

sanded again and applied two layers of black matt color... but ran out of paint, need to buy more

assembled test setup to overclock the cpu and test everything out
first channel on Kaze Master shows pump rpms and ambient temp


Coretemp showed 36/38 °C Idle, I guess I need to remount CPU block




and meanwhile I am selling all hardware I will not ever be using and one guy wanted to buy stock Lian-Li case 140mm fans. I was removing them from the front panel and one thing really surprised me:
Lian-Li placed separate PCB to connect 3 fans together and did it so that you can easily change stock fans, connect them together and monitor their rpms (even if built-in Lian-Li controller doesn't use rpm wire).
Thermaltake usually just solders fans together and you will not ever use them again




I hope since now updates will be coming faster

[-TYPHOON-]

It looks really cool

[kgtiger]

Nice update GK.
If you don't have and panal beaters near by you to get some from.
Just try spack filler.
Spack filler is just very fine plaster that is mixed with water to make a past, you normaly use it to fill hole's and cracks in the walls of house's.
You may find it a little porous, meaning it will suck in the paint like a sponge at first.
Just let the first coat of primer fully dry before applying the second coat of primer and you should be sweet.

One other thing you could use is wood putty that you would use in woodworking to fill nail holes and cracks.
It's normaly an oil base filler that drys hard and can easily be sanded back and then painter over.

Just see what you can find, you will find something champ.

[aka_GK]

It looks really cool

Nice update GK.
If you don't have and panal beaters near by you to get some from.
Just try spack filler.
Spack filler is just very fine plaster that is mixed with water to make a past, you normaly use it to fill hole's and cracks in the walls of house's.
You may find it a little porous, meaning it will suck in the paint like a sponge at first.
Just let the first coat of primer fully dry before applying the second coat of primer and you should be sweet.

One other thing you could use is wood putty that you would use in woodworking to fill nail holes and cracks.
It's normaly an oil base filler that drys hard and can easily be sanded back and then painter over.

Just see what you can find, you will find something champ.

Sure I will, thanks for the tips


I am finalizing my order at PPCs (last one for this build, I hope ), so I need to know whether I have everything for proper cable management or not, as it is very hard (almost impossible) to get stuff like connectors, pins, extenders here in Moscow.

Internal USB cable that was with Koolance board is ok, but 10" SATA cable I bought previously is not long enough, 12" should be fine.




This is how TMS-200 going to be mounted.


painted TMS-200 bracket:


Also I have a bunch of parts primed, but not painted yet. Store that sells my paint opens on 11th January, I have to wait for a few days
Koolance temp sensor (sorry for the fur )


Misc. screws for rad bracket and MB tray

[kgtiger]

Can you not just cut the sata cable, and add 2"-3" and solder it back up?
Will need to add some heatshrink to it, but would be cheaper.

Also, have a look at the top of the Koolance temp sensor, can you see the black dots around the inside, near the wires.
That is from silicon, the mortal enemy of paint.
It repels the paint when it is wet, stopping you from getting an even coverage.
Just get some solvent like mineral turpentine and wipe down the affected area.
As it is only primer, it will also remove the primer as well.

If you like the dots, don't bother, if they bug you, give it a go.

[aka_GK]

Can you not just cut the sata cable, and add 2"-3" and solder it back up?
Will need to add some heatshrink to it, but would be cheaper.

hmm, I really have no idea how SATA cable looks inside but according to lots of golden pins at the end of connector I always imagine lots of wires inside that are impossible to solder back once cutted, am I wrong? that's why I've never thought of cutting this cables, but it is a nice suggestion, I guess exact length I need is somewhere between 10" and 12", may be I'll go this way

Also, have a look at the top of the Koolance temp sensor, can you see the black dots around the inside, near the wires.
That is from silicon, the mortal enemy of paint.
It repels the paint when it is wet, stopping you from getting an even coverage.
Just get some solvent like mineral turpentine and wipe down the affected area.
As it is only primer, it will also remove the primer as well.

If you like the dots, don't bother, if they bug you, give it a go.

yeah, I've noticed that sponge like thing, but I think when covered with black paint those dots will be barely visible, it doesn't bother me