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Thread: Can I repair a leaky rad.?

  1. #1
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    Can I repair a leaky rad.?

    So I thought I finished my build tonight, But when bleeding my loop I found a major leak on my new XSPC RX360 rad. I used the wrong screw in a coulpe of the fan holes a now two major leaks. Does anyone know a or sucessfully fixed a leak before or am I screw and just throw it any order a new one?
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  2. #2
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    hey its very fixable depending on hole size....I grabbed the wrong screws in my build in my monsta radiator and thought it was junk afterwards and was very pissed, but I JB welded it together and im currently doing a leak test now and its at 18 hours total run time with no leaks so far...dont fret bro get JB weld.

  3. #3
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    AHHH Yes JB WELD!!! A gift from the gods!!!! thanks I will pick some up first thing in the morning. Thanks Again!
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  4. #4
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    I was gonna say rapid epox but that will work fine
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  5. #5
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    Dont go near Evostik radiator repair glue - its awful and doesnt work. Totally ruined my rad with it trying to fix a tiny pinhole leak. Now cant get at the leak to seal it properly due to the glue. Seems to have stuck to the rad like iron yet somehow not sealed the hole. Useless.

    JB or 2 part Epoxy gets my vote, but remember to remove the paint in the area of the hole to get a good seal. Good luck .

  6. #6
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    Personally I wouldn't trust my thousands dollar computer on some cheap JB weld or epoxy, it would really sucks if the patch burst in couple months and fried everything within the case. If you don't feel like buying a new one I suggest you to take it to a repair shop and get it welded or fixed properly.
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  7. #7
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    Just use super glue. Did it with my tfc rad. No leak for half a year now
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  8. #8
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    You may want to put a little patch of epoxy over the super glue fix, last I checked super glue was water soluble
    Last edited by ecat; 05-09-2009 at 01:41 AM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ben805 View Post
    Personally I wouldn't trust my thousands dollar computer on some cheap JB weld or epoxy, it would really sucks if the patch burst in couple months and fried everything within the case. If you don't feel like buying a new one I suggest you to take it to a repair shop and get it welded or fixed properly.
    well my other options was to shoot it with my magnum....

  10. #10
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    Why not just solder it closed? Remove as much paint around the area as possible and rub on some flux with a q-tip and solder it. Good as new afterward!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sadasius View Post
    Why not just solder it closed? Remove as much paint around the area as possible and rub on some flux with a q-tip and solder it. Good as new afterward!
    What iv always used on all the rads iv fixed.

  12. #12
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    I used this once: http://www.aquatuning.at/product_inf...eitkleber.html . After itīs dry, itīs like you welded it^^
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  13. #13
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    still going strong on JB weld at 24 hours or so...now...

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sadasius View Post
    Why not just solder it closed? Remove as much paint around the area as possible and rub on some flux with a q-tip and solder it. Good as new afterward!
    I don't want to solder and burn off half the paint for two tiny pin holes plus the leaks are on the out side of the rad. so if it springs a leak it will spay out not into the pc. Well I set the JB around 9:00am so I will leak test tonight after the wife and kids go to bed around 12ish.
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  15. #15
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    That's why man invented touch up paint. Comes in all colors. Heck if you have a goth sister you can use her nail polish.

  16. #16
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    There is no way touch up paint after you burned the paint off will look the same. You would have to strip the whole rad and repaint to get a nice even coat.
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  17. #17
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    So JB weld is going to look better?!? Take a pic after your done! Reason also that you don't use JB weld on a rad is because of Galvanic corrosion. Will not take long before the metal around the JB weld will eat away and it will fall out. JB weld is an epoxy steel resin so that should have a nice reaction with your copper over time. Silver solder however is harmless and you will have a rad until you get rid of it.
    Last edited by Sadasius; 05-09-2009 at 07:51 AM.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by KaptCrunch View Post
    don't use a blow torch use a electric iron to solder (60-80watt) so solder can adhere to copper
    Exactly....What he said! Reason being is that it not only releases toxins but you will unsolder other joints in the rad. Use the electric soldering iron and some silver solder and your good to go. If you use a good brand of silver solder it has flux built in to it and will spread evenly when used. I use Bernzomatic myself.

  19. #19
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    I've been using JB Weld on a rad now going on 13 months. I only run distilled water and PT Nuke with no signs of corrosion. I don't think JB Weld does corrode. People seriously underestimate what this stuff is capable of. JB Weld is one of the most incredible things and is by no means just some cheap fix. Soldering a rad is a very touchy business, and it doesn't take much to unsolder other things and do more damage. I have a hard time imagining how you are going to get something like a copper radiator hot enough for silver solder with a soldering iron.

  20. #20
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    Yes! Fixed mine with metal-metal glue
    (bison dutch brand i thinks )
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  21. #21
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    Managed to pull the Evostik crap off the repair job on my bust rad (case screw fell off my desk into the fan while gaming and pinholed the rad - how unlucky was that!). The only upside was it took all the paint from nearby with it. Bought some Araldite Precision 2 part adhesive (Wanted long cure stuff, they only had 2, my first choice the epoxy was water resistant not water proof, so went with adhesive) and gave that a go yesterday. Its supposed to take 6 hours to set and 16 hours to cure, 20 hours in and its set but not fully cured by my eye - I expected that though as its supposed to be used as an adhesive. Ill give it til this afternoon then a quick 10 minute test with a low power pump.

    Thanks for the inspiration to try again . Fingers crossed it works.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by voigts View Post
    I've been using JB Weld on a rad now going on 13 months. I only run distilled water and PT Nuke with no signs of corrosion. I don't think JB Weld does corrode. People seriously underestimate what this stuff is capable of. JB Weld is one of the most incredible things and is by no means just some cheap fix. Soldering a rad is a very touchy business, and it doesn't take much to unsolder other things and do more damage. I have a hard time imagining how you are going to get something like a copper radiator hot enough for silver solder with a soldering iron.
    scared me for a moment there from above post Sadasius about jb weld its been going for amost 48 hours with no leaks so far with jb weld......

  23. #23
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    jb weld is fine. its not going to fall apart or breakdown.
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  24. #24
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    OK JB weld seems to be working ran for about 6hours until my ddc failed :[ Had to order my third pump now my d4 died last week it was time to upgrade anyway. So what next I have been on this build for 3 weeks now. Any way thanks guys the JB seems to be working.
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Taylor01 View Post
    OK JB weld seems to be working ran for about 6hours until my ddc failed :[ Had to order my third pump now my d4 died last week it was time to upgrade anyway. So what next I have been on this build for 3 weeks now. Any way thanks guys the JB seems to be working.
    ran mine testing for 55 hours straight I called it good dont think I need to go any further...I did double layer the jb weld though let it cur for 24 hours then added another layer on it...

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