ASUS Striker II Extreme

[Trigger5521]

Did you mentioned this before?
Im kinda scare now, how many people out there are using the Striker II Fusion block? I know of many using the Maximus SE block and Blitz Extreme block, but I heard this time the S2E block has a different material (Got it from Triggers thread)

What exactly caused this? Can it really be the fusion block? I think Trigger mentioned he used this horribly liquid that looks like the main responsable.

Slim I know 100% the GTX has aluminum top..still uncertian is if fusion block is aluminum or copper. I think it's copper.

[slim142]

No, not in this thread that I recall. Mixed metal loops are a big NO-NO in watercooling. This is because of Galvanic Corrosion. In fact, aluminium in a WC loop is a big NO-NO. Aluminum does nasty things!

There are quite a few people using the stock block, but there are also quite a few people who purchase ThermalTake Liquid Cooling kits too ().

I had heard the same thing about the SIIE block, but I am not willing to take my chances, plus I do not want to add the restriction of going from 1/2" ID to 3/8" ID just for the block. I spent far too much money on the WC loops and far too much on the board to rely on that stock block.

Just my opinion, to each is own...but my recommendation is get some EK or DangerDen blocks and do it up right, you'll be much happier in the long run.

Now, who wants to guide me in OC'ing this board. I can't find stable beyond stock clocks after upping from 0704 to 0901!!!
I had to reinstall Vista x64 because for some reason it went un-activated and would not take my key.

Is not that I dont want to listen to you Skinnee, but I want to give that block a try. Changing Heatsink City would cost some money and not really into spending money on mosfet coolers and SB heatsink if its not neccesary.

I used primochills prue PC fluid..supposed to be corrision inhibitor. BS. Apogee GTX is garbage aswell because it has an aluminum top.

Skinnee...I had no idea the GTX used a ALM top. Thought I had done enough homework...Live and learn.

Ordered ek blocks for the whole sha-bang now and a d-tek fusion v2. All 1/2 so I should have a top notch setup when it's said and done.

Is your Rad and pump ok?

[slim142]

Slim I know 100% the GTX has aluminum top..still uncertian is if fusion block is aluminum or copper. I think it's copper.

Well it looks pretty much like copper.

[Warboy]

No new Bioses yet?

[slim142]

Well ASUS just released two and they are not like pmp that bring us new BIOSes every two weeks.

[Tyke]

I used primochills prue PC fluid..supposed to be corrision inhibitor. BS. Apogee GTX is garbage aswell because it has an aluminum top.

Skinnee...I had no idea the GTX used a ALM top. Thought I had done enough homework...Live and learn.

Ordered ek blocks for the whole sha-bang now and a d-tek fusion v2. All 1/2 so I should have a top notch setup when it's said and done.

Gotta agree, I have a full setup of EK blocks and it works perfectly!! The Fusion block does not cool the SB well enough, but does a decent job on the NB.

[DaMulta]

I think I like the new bios


On other notes I have ran the block with a maze4 with out those problems.


I have a 120GTX with it's own pump ready to be installed.
Been waiting on a res, and a few other things. But I think I'm going to rig it out anyway

DD-CPX1 12V Pump--Small pump
DD12V-D5 Pump Fixed Speed by Laing
Danger Den Single 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir
DangerDen - 9800GTX blocks

[Leeghoofd]

I had absolutely no issue with the Maximus SE block... think this is just a mixup of bad fluids and components, think very little to do with the fuzion block as we would have had many more reports from day one if this happenend...

[FatboyHK]

Finally I started OCing on my new build (see my sig for spec)

This is my first OC project on the Intel camp, I was on the AMD camp for the last 2 build. So I am pretty much still on the learning curve now

First thing I notice is that this board have soo many options in BIOS and is pretty difficult to start with. But with the hint from Anandtech (Their S2E review comes with a OC tutorial for this board, I don't know why they did that but it is a godsend for me), I have a good starting point.

I started with RAM first, I cranked up FSB to 1600 while lowered multiplier to 6x. Ran memtest86 v3.4 for a round, seem ok.

I cut a corner a bit and try to boot into Windows for a Orthos run. but I was greeted immediately with BSOD :P I Increased CPU Voltage to 1.2v and that solved the problem. Ran Orthos for an Hour without issue, then I went back to BIOS for more.

I set to 1800 FSB, multiplier still at 6x. Run 3 round of memtest and seem ok. I decided to take this, don't wanna stress all the way to 2000 MHz at this moment. Then I crank multiplier back to 9.5x and intent to stabilize on this setting (CPU @4275 MHz, RAM @ 1800 MHz 9-9-9-28).

Tried to boot into Windows, greeted with BSOD again. Pump CPU voltage to 1.3v, boot is ok but Orthos failed immediately. Pump again to 1.35v and 1.4v, Orthos could run for 30 minutes before Core #1 gave in.

Tried several small pump and I found that I need 1.43v to have a Orthos-stable setup. Run for 10 hours and I was satisfied with it. But I see that CPU Core temp was as high as 72c, and the max CPU temp reported by the chipset was at 65c, is it ok??? MCP temp is good, it pretty much stayed at 57c as I have a fan blowing to the SB, not from the top but from the side, i think it is a good setup and I will show some photo once I finish OCing.

Then I tried to run 3dmark06 with Orthos in the background. Seem good but it lasted for several round only. It failed when it try to start a test and showed a black screen.

Then I tried to run 3dmark06 alone and I hit the same issue. Hmm, finally saw something challenging in this OC project :P

Now I dropped to 9x to see what will happen. If the same thing occur then I can safely bet it is a RAM issue. Let's see how it goes

[skinnee]

Skinnee...I had no idea the GTX used a ALM top. Thought I had done enough homework...Live and learn.

Thats what all of this is...live and learn! I am just trying to pass along what I know about WC'ing. I know more about WC'ing than I do OC'ing...thats for certain!

Slim I know 100% the GTX has aluminum top..still uncertian is if fusion block is aluminum or copper. I think it's copper.

IIRC (I'll try to find the article), the Fusion Heatpipe system on the SIIE is copper plated aluminium. I remember reading that somewhere, now I have to find it.

Is not that I dont want to listen to you Skinnee, but I want to give that block a try. Changing Heatsink City would cost some money and not really into spending money on mosfet coolers and SB heatsink if its not neccesary.

I completely understand where you're coming from Slim, I'm just trying to help you spend your money wisely, don't go through the mistakes other have had to endure.

If you are going to run the Fusion block, I would run it in a seperate loop, don't run it in your CPU or GPU loop, you can't avoid galvanic corrosion, but you can keep it away from other components.

[skinnee]

Ugh!!!!!

I just went to give the board another OC attempt. Now, I power the thing on, it runs for 3-4 seconds and powers off, LCD poster does not go past CPU Init.

Bad CPU or bad board? HELP!!!

[FatboyHK]

Then I tried to run 3dmark06 with Orthos in the background. Seem good but it lasted for several round only. It failed when it try to start a test and showed a black screen.

Then I tried to run 3dmark06 alone and I hit the same issue. Hmm, finally saw something challenging in this OC project :P

Now I dropped to 9x to see what will happen. If the same thing occur then I can safely bet it is a RAM issue. Let's see how it goes

OK, I dropped to 9x multiplier and seem the problem is solved... 3dmark06 seem to be able to run on and on, and CPU voltage can be lowered to 1.35v also, temps are much acceptable, more core temp is around 60c.

But just when I thought it is a job well done, I hit another issue. Real Player had problem playing video, sometimes the whole screen (not only the Real Player window) would freeze for several seconds. I stopped RealPlayer and try WMP, my screen flickered like a dicso and my PC hung.

I cranked up my CPU voltage again all the way back to 1.43v, but still hit the same problem....

Now I just dropped to 8x multiplier , let's see how it goes...

[slim142]

I had absolutely no issue with the Maximus SE block... think this is just a mixup of bad fluids and components, think very little to do with the fuzion block as we would have had many more reports from day one if this happenend...

I also think it was a bad mix of fluids. That Pure PC liquid doesnt sound good at all, but I cant say anything since I never tried it. I wonder why he didnt just bought a bottle of UV Green coolant

Im planning on using Feser One UV Blue Liquid on my setup, hopefully this is safe for my CPU, NB and both GFX cards.

Thats what all of this is...live and learn! I am just trying to pass along what I know about WC'ing. I know more about WC'ing than I do OC'ing...thats for certain!

And I really appreciate your comments here. When is your first time water cooling, you really want to know all the risks to be carefull.

IIRC (I'll try to find the article), the Fusion Heatpipe system on the SIIE is copper plated aluminium. I remember reading that somewhere, now I have to find it.

I also read this a second ago lol. Hopefully using UV Blue Feser coolant wont have any of this kind of effects.

I completely understand where you're coming from Slim, I'm just trying to help you spend your money wisely, don't go through the mistakes other have had to endure.

Like I said, I really appreciate the help

If you are going to run the Fusion block, I would run it in a seperate loop, don't run it in your CPU or GPU loop, you can't avoid galvanic corrosion, but you can keep it away from other components.

Unfortunately, I cant afford two pumps and two rads

Ugh!!!!!

I just went to give the board another OC attempt. Now, I power the thing on, it runs for 3-4 seconds and powers off, LCD poster does not go past CPU Init.

Bad CPU or bad board? HELP!!!

Try removing battery and clearing CMOS.

[Anemone]

Sure to feel for folks struggling with this board. Its a good thing Asus is continually tweaking the bios, but soooo many problems

[FatboyHK]

I cranked up my CPU voltage again all the way back to 1.43v, but still hit the same problem....

Now I just dropped to 8x multiplier , let's see how it goes...

Seem ok at 8x, but I really want to achieve my target, which is 4275 MHz.

I think it is a matter of stabilizing my CPU with higher voltage. But since I am not very familiar with C2D CPU yet, I am a bit hesitate.... What is the safe limit that I should never exceed on this E8500? I heard it is about 1.45v for us average people, but it is the value taken in CPU-Z or set in BIOS?

[DaMulta]

Ugh!!!!!

I just went to give the board another OC attempt. Now, I power the thing on, it runs for 3-4 seconds and powers off, LCD poster does not go past CPU Init.

Bad CPU or bad board? HELP!!!

mine did that with the CPU

1. Don't have the block on their right

2. Dead CPU

This was for any setting with me tho, is this just ocing?

[slim142]

Seem ok at 8x, but I really want to achieve my target, which is 4275 MHz.

I think it is a matter of stabilizing my CPU with higher voltage. But since I am not very familiar with C2D CPU yet, I am a bit hesitate.... What is the safe limit that I should never exceed on this E8500? I heard it is about 1.45v for us average people, but it is the value taken in CPU-Z or set in BIOS?

Recommended not to go over 1.40v, 1.42 would be the absolute maximum if you need those extra two for stability but no more than that.

I try to keep mines at 1.39-1.40

[FatboyHK]

Recommended not to go over 1.40v, 1.42 would be the absolute maximum if you need those extra two for stability but no more than that.

I try to keep mines at 1.39-1.40

read from BIOS or CPU-Z?

[skinnee]

mine did that with the CPU

1. Don't have the block on their right

2. Dead CPU

This was for any setting with me tho, is this just ocing?

Try removing battery and clearing CMOS.

Tried the battery and CMOS trick, nope. I have also reseated the CPU and block, no dice. We had an electrical storm the other night...wonder if the CPU got fried during that, my own fault for not having a UPS.

Its passed my 30 days with NewEgg...wonder if they'll do anything or I just need to buy another Proc.

I also think it was a bad mix of fluids. That Pure PC liquid doesnt sound good at all, but I cant say anything since I never tried it. I wonder why he didnt just bought a bottle of UV Green coolant

Im planning on using Feser One UV Blue Liquid on my setup, hopefully this is safe for my CPU, NB and both GFX cards.

Feser One is fine, I do not know if it has corrosion blocker in it...check that. I only used the Feser UV Dye in my loop, although on my next build, I won't use UV dye either, just UV reactive tubing and run distilled water and some biocide.

And I really appreciate your comments here. When is your first time water cooling, you really want to know all the risks to be carefull.

No problem, I've become a little over-passionate about warning people on galvanic corrosion since I made the mistake myself.

I also read this a second ago lol. Hopefully using UV Blue Feser coolant wont have any of this kind of effects.

If the Feser has corrosion blocker, this will delay the corrosion from taking over, won't stop it...only slow it.

Like I said, I really appreciate the help

NP!

Unfortunately, I cant afford two pumps and two rads

I wish I had one of each to send you...but I don't at the present moment, a friend of mine needed them, so he got them first.

[tekjunkie]

I cannot for the life of me get my rig stable even @ stock speeds(prime fails after 4 hours on one core with 0901) with the OCZ RAM. I am gonna try putting my gskills on and see.

[slim142]

read from BIOS or CPU-Z?

Use either Probe II or Everest. BIOS shows voltage at idle only.

Tried the battery and CMOS trick, nope. I have also reseated the CPU and block, no dice. We had an electrical storm the other night...wonder if the CPU got fried during that, my own fault for not having a UPS.

Did the lightning shut your pc down?

Its passed my 30 days with NewEgg...wonder if they'll do anything or I just need to buy another Proc.

I know for CPUs is only 7 days...

Feser One is fine, I do not know if it has corrosion blocker in it...check that. I only used the Feser UV Dye in my loop, although on my next build, I won't use UV dye either, just UV reactive tubing and run distilled water and some biocide.

It has corrosion protection against Copper, Aluminum, Brass and another one I cant remember

If the Feser has corrosion blocker, this will delay the corrosion from taking over, won't stop it...only slow it.

So you are saying corrosion like Triggers will happen no matter what? If so, how long should I expect it to happen?
Is there anything that wont make this happen?
I was told Feser liquid by itself wouldnt do anything like what happened to Triggers as long as I dont mix the coolant with anything else.

I wish I had one of each to send you...but I don't at the present moment, a friend of mine needed them, so he got them first.

aaah!

I cannot for the life of me get my rig stable even @ stock speeds(prime fails after 4 hours on one core with 0901) with the OCZ RAM. I am gonna try putting my gskills on and see.

Sorry to hear that Tek
Maybe RAM incompatibility like you said?

[skinnee]

Did the lightning shut your pc down? I know for CPUs is only 7 days...

Yup, just found that out about the Egg. I think the lightning and the crappy power situation in my office killed it.

It has corrosion protection against Copper, Aluminum, Brass and another one I cant remember

So you are saying corrosion like Triggers will happen no matter what? If so, how long should I expect it to happen?
Is there anything that wont make this happen?
I was told Feser liquid by itself wouldnt do anything like what happened to Triggers as long as I dont mix the coolant with anything else.

I don't know if you will see the same results as Trigger (his are quite bad), but yes galvanic corrosion will eat through the metal (Copper, Alu and Brass) in your loop.

You can flush your loop every 2-3 months, thats about the only way to extend the life of your loop. For this, I recommend distilled water and biocide, add some Feser UV Blue Dye (same as my CPU and Chipset loop)if you want the color. But flush and replace the liquid every 2-3 months.

[TheGoat Eater]

was -it OEM CPU - RMA to Intel FTW - very fast (within a week)

[tekjunkie]

Yup, just found that out about the Egg. I think the lightning and the crappy power situation in my office killed it.



I don't know if you will see the same results as Trigger (his are quite bad), but yes galvanic corrosion will eat through the metal (Copper, Alu and Brass) in your loop.

You can flush your loop every 2-3 months, thats about the only way to extend the life of your loop. For this, I recommend distilled water and biocide, add some Feser UV Blue Dye (same as my CPU and Chipset loop)if you want the color. But flush and replace the liquid every 2-3 months.

I have been reading a lot about WC and from what I have read, distilled water and zerex is FTW. If you can't get zerex then get hydrx.

[slim142]

I don't know if you will see the same results as Trigger (his are quite bad), but yes galvanic corrosion will eat through the metal (Copper, Alu and Brass) in your loop.

so Galvanic corrosion happens no matter if you use distilled water, coolants, anticorrosion liquids etc etc??? There is no "safe" combination?

You can flush your loop every 2-3 months, thats about the only way to extend the life of your loop. For this, I recommend distilled water and biocide, add some Feser UV Blue Dye (same as my CPU and Chipset loop)if you want the color. But flush and replace the liquid every 2-3 months.

Ok so if I decide to use just Feser UV Blue Coolant and clean my loop every 3 months, Im risk free?

With everything you told me, Im concluding that everybody who has water cooling should have galvanic corrosion happening inside their loops, am I wrong?