Official Water Cooling Thread of the Stock Maximus SE ROG NB Club:

[Talonman]

Just got the board and I have a few questions.

I can't really justify taking the heatsink off of my new $300 board, so I thought about ways to improve whats there, and thought that every day while it's at load and hot, if I just turn the NB screws a quarter turn, it'll push the trash glue out a little at a time. Could this be possible?

That glue looks pritty thick. I would be afraid that the glue wouldn't care, and you could strip your screws, or warp your mobo if you overtighten a block to it.

I would say +1 for creative thinking, but probably won't work.

[Jedda]

my 'MB' is running at 38*. Is MB the ambient?

Nope. It's an inboard reading usually midway between the cpu socket and RAM slots.

[initialised]

Got mine. Hopefully get it up and running tonight!

[Jedda]

I'll get the NB under water today and report back along with some pics of my new HSPC Tech Station bench from Petra's.

By the way, after working with a Tech Station I may never go back to a full covered case again. Man what a dream these things are to work on when testing, just incredible.

andyc

Yeah, if you're any kind of tinkerer they really give you open easy access.
There's a lot to be said for getting your hardware up and running on one while you mod a final case too.
Only downside is kidz n pets.

[dude_500]

I decided that I would take off my northbridge to reseat it today, and it was totally worth it. I got 33* load instead of my old 41*.

When I poped off the whole thing, the southbridge stayed down and the pipe came out of it so I didn't get a look at the southbridge TIM. I'm sure it's the same as north, but is it worth taking it off to redo? From what I've read the southbridge doesn't really matter, especially because I'm not doing Crossfire.

I'll post pics/specs once I get up to my max overclock. I think it'll go quite high considering I'm running 3177mhz on my Q6600 G0 with stock voltage (1.28 load after droop).

[Talonman]

Yes, do keep us posted...

[Jedda]

When I poped off the whole thing, the southbridge stayed down and the pipe came out of it so I didn't get a look at the southbridge TIM.

Worth putting TIM on the block/heat-pipe join. Some miss doing that.

[dude_500]

Before, my Delta between cpu and cores was 7 degrees which is quite normal. Now, it's -5 degree delta which is fundamentally impossible as far as I know. (53 CPU, 48 core 0). This changed after I updated 401 to 901 BIOS. Anyone having this bug?

[jonny_ftm]

I personally think it is useless
Try to monitor temps by plugging them than unplugging them, if you see a notable change...

They also are known to be too loud (small fans with high rpm)

[Aldy402]

WOW

I just added the block to my loop and what a difference
it was NOT remounted
I initially left it out of my loop but was running a BTX style case so I don't think the heatpipes were working as efficiently as they could

temps were 54-58 idle/ 62-65 load
now its 37 idle / 43 load max

1.63v NB

loaded with OCCT ram slider all the way to the right
just my d-tek fuzion and this block on a pa120.3

[Talonman]

WOW

I just added the block to my loop and what a difference
it was NOT remounted
I initially left it out of my loop but was running a BTX style case so I don't think the heatpipes were working as efficiently as they could

temps were 54-58 idle/ 62-65 load
now its 37 idle / 43 load max

1.63v NB

loaded with OCCT ram slider all the way to the right
just my d-tek fuzion and this block on a pa120.3

Thanks for the post, and glad to hear your getting much better results on water. Good temps on the stock install too.

Origional post updated with your data!

[Renegade5399]

Will this fit the X38?

[jonny_ftm]

Will this fit the X38?

It is in the Discontinued Products list
You should go with a MCW30 from swiftech

[WFO]

Either my board and MCW30 are seriously out of spec or this thread needs updating. For me the MCW30 is not a direct bolt on replacement for the North Bridge!!! A spacer needs to be backed out and a mounting screw ed at least 15 degrees or one of the mounting plates on the MCW30 needs to be notched and angled out at least 1/8th inch. Those that claim it is direct bolt on replacement are wrong!!!! Be prepared for a Mickey mouse installation if you ordered one for this board!!! /me goes to EK for a proper waterblock. I won't be using the Mickey Moused MCW30.

[mouawad]

Either my board and MCW30 are seriously out of spec or this thread needs updating. For me the MCW30 is not a direct bolt on replacement for the North Bridge!!! A spacer needs to be backed out and a mounting screw ed at least 15 degrees or one of the mounting plates on the MCW30 needs to be notched and angled out at least 1/8th inch. Those that claim it is direct bolt on replacement are wrong!!!! Be prepared for a Mickey mouse installation if you ordered one for this board!!! /me goes to EK for a proper waterblock. I won't be using the Mickey Moused MCW30.

i used the springs + nut with my mcw30 on my Maximus, no dramas at all.

it's a tight fit but that just means there's less chance of rocking - well my NB is sitting @ 30c under load with 1.5v so i think it's doing ok

[Eastcoasthandle]

Below are some pics showing the removal of the N/S bridge heat sinks. With the help of cadaveca I came up with the idea of refrigerating the Maximus Formula MB (with the plastic covering)for 3 hours in order to remove the north/south bridge heat sinks. Heat didn't loosens the thermal compound found on this motherboard for me but cold temperatures did. Once the board was chilled for 3 hours the north/south bridge heat sinks popped right off without any real force. I offer this advice as a possible solution for removing bonded type of thermal compound from the north/south bridge heat sinks. Please keep in mind that applying either heat or cold or both temperatures can damage your motherboard. You try this at your own risk.


NB.



NB HS.


SB.



SB HS.

Sidenote:
This method is not for everyone and you do so at your own risk.

[iadstudio]

dunno how you came up with that, but thanks! I'm not sure how I feel about putting my new mobo in the freezer, but I know I don't like the looks of that TIM.

[Eastcoasthandle]

dunno how you came up with that, but thanks! I'm not sure how I feel about putting my new mobo in the freezer, but I know I don't like the looks of that TIM.

I first tried heating it as others posted that it worked. Well, it didn't work for me at all. So, I talked to another user who told me that his arrived and the board was very cold. He took the N/S bridge heatsink off with no problem while the board was cold. So I tried it myself and wouldn't you know, it worked. It popped right off with no fuss (unlike before). I didn't use the freezer but the fridge.

Here is the original post:

Benefit? YES!!!

I popped mine second board as soon as I got it..came off easily...first board would run 50c or so under 1.45v, now I can run 1.8v, and barely top 41c, using ceramique.

It actually seems now that the southbridge connection to teh NB heatsink dictates temps...but also because I am using thermal probes attached to various places I am aware that both SB and NB temps are not reported accurately in ANY instance....both heatsinks are 2c higher by thermal probe than reported temps by on-board sensors.

the heatsink assembly , after changeing paste, seem quite good...it's the stock TIM that fouls things up!

[mouawad]

to each their own i guess but the hairdryer worked fine for me too.

i've done this on 2 boards now as my first had a brownout.

[jonny_ftm]

It's not heat that loosens the thermal compound found on this motherboard but cold temperatures. Once the board was chilled for 3 hours the north/south bridge heat sinks popped right off without any real force. I offer this advice as a possible solution for removing difficult north/south bridge heat sinks do to the type of thermal compound used. Below are some pics I took to show what the TC, heatsinks and chipset looks like after removal.

Just for the beginners: condensation could kill the board, so be carefull. Also, I won't be surprised if later you can get some oxydation on valuable components with such a process. Heat is more "physiological", as the board heats up on load. But, good idea for a really recalcitrant heatsink (anyhow, a really good heating would do it in all cases, just could need time)

[Eastcoasthandle]

Just for the beginners: condensation could kill the board, so be carefull. Also, I won't be surprised if later you can get some oxydation on valuable components with such a process. Heat is more "physiological", as the board heats up on load. But, good idea for a really recalcitrant heatsink (anyhow, a really good heating would do it in all cases, just could need time)

No, there is nor will be any oxidation on valuable components. The results were perform to mimic outdoor results when under deliver (during a cold day). Although I wouldn't suggest this with everyone, an alternative was needed because the heat method did not work for me. The fact that it did work (under close observations, understanding of the cold air in my fridge, placement of the entire box and no condensation) made for an effective alternative for removing the N/S bridge HS that otherwise would not come off.

[giorgos th.]

Also watercool my NB.With the Q6600 @ 3600 and the 8800GT in the loop,with ~23C room temp i have ~41C load with 1.47Vmch after many many hours of gaming and double Orthos.

[Talonman]

Origional post updated with your data.

Thanks for the post.

[nowakjan2000]

Hi everyone, this is my first post in this thread. I have the following problem:
I've watercooled my rig (see the signature) and my CPU temp is about 60C in idle state. I reassambled the water block applying AS 5 between CPU and D-Tek, changed all the fittings and hoses to one dimension - 1/4" and still have no idea why it gets so freaking hot? Any help for an unexperienced watercooler (this is my first loop, and I haven't had any experience with watercooling before)? Will appreciate!!

[jonny_ftm]

Hi everyone, this is my first post in this thread. I have the following problem:
I've watercooled my rig (see the signature) and my CPU temp is about 60C in idle state. I reassambled the water block applying AS 5 between CPU and D-Tek, changed all the fittings and hoses to one dimension - 1/4" and still have no idea why it gets so freaking hot? Any help for an unexperienced watercooler (this is my first loop, and I haven't had any experience with watercooling before)? Will appreciate!!

I think you should post it elsewhere as it has nothing to do with this topic (about NB temperature)
Also, when you make a new topic with your issue, don't forget to mention the pump, tubing size, radiator, your loop components order, your CPU stepping, and what you use to read your CPU temperature
Good luck, and try to post in the right place...