My Lian-Li 343B Case 3-loop Project - Initial Pump Testing

[disruptfam]

updates?

[lazy]

updates?

i was just going to ask the same thing

[Cascades]

Well, the three pumps were making a weird, low-frequency noise that I could stop by pressing on the center of the vertical panel. I tore the system down and will be getting in some 1/4" sound-proofing material tomorrow to place on that panel. Hopefully that will stop this weird noise.

To be able to apply the sound-proofing material easily, I took apart the case. Here's a picture of the case with all the panels out:



Here's a couple of pictures of the pumps and the pump shelf:




Sunbeam Fan Controller: This is a great little fan controller that can control up to 20 watts on each of the four channels. However, the LEDs on the front are way too bright and can light-up a dark room! To reduce their brightness, I installed a 10K-ohm resistor to the center lead (Gnd Lead) of each of the LEDs and this worked great. Channel 1 controls the fans on the vertical MCR-220 radiator to the left, Channel 2 controls the fans on the MCR-220 radiator on the top panel, Channel 3 controls the fans on the MCR-320 Vertical radiator to the right, and Channel 4 controls the remainder of the fans in the case. Thanks to Jason Padrick on OC Forums for this idea.

Here is a picture of the placement of these 10K-ohm resistors:



I should have everything back together this weekend.

Cheers!

[~aoe~]

I have the same fan controller, and wanted to disconnect the LEDs. Question is, can I simply cut the wires thereby breaking the circuit, or do I need to reconnect the circuit after breaking the connection with the LEDs?

I think the LEDs are placed in parallel with the rheostats, so breaking the circuit should be ok, but not sure.

[Cascades]

If you want to completely disable the LEDs, just cut the center leads. You could cut the lead where the lead bends down and slightly move it out of the way. If you ever wanted the LEDs to work again, just resolder the leads back together.

The variable pots are not in the same circuit as the LEDs.

[louie101086]

i love it feed me more updates

[~aoe~]

If you want to completely disable the LEDs, just cut the center leads. You could cut the lead where the lead bends down and slightly move it out of the way. If you ever wanted the LEDs to work again, just resolder the leads back together.

The variable pots are not in the same circuit as the LEDs.

Thanks for the info. Sounds simple enough that even I should be able to manage that

Keep up the good work.

[Cascades]

More notes:

**A note about pushing 7/16” tubing onto 1/2” barbs: I have read about different techniques of pushing the tubing onto the barbs, and I tried every one of them. But what really works well for me is to use a very small amount of olive oil on the barbs and push the tubing on firmly. Works great every time! To get the tubing off, make a very slight cut on the end of the tubing with an exacto knife, and the tubing easily comes off of the barb. To re-attach the tubing, cut the tubing evenly and reapply. (You loose about 1” of tubing)

[egraphix]

i used warm distilled water-not boiling but hot.. dipp the end in for like 5 seconds and the tips become very loose and easily slip on to the barbs with absolutely minimum force. once it dries up/cools down its tigher than tight! i also used metal hoseclips-but come to think of it, they are not even needed...

[dr4gon]

For the rheobus sunbeam fan controller, you can actually instead of cuttting just pull the wire out of it's socket in the middle. That should get rid of the LED.

I've never heard of olive oil, I've only heard of using water based lubricants since I wouldn't want anything greasy getting in my loop. I just used the near boiling hot water dip for 10 seconds and I always managed to get it on.

[Cascades]

The amount of olive oil I use is so minimal that there is no contamination in the loop because it's applied to the outside of the barbs... I have tried the hot water method without too much success. Whatever works for you

[Clue69Less]

The amount of olive oil I use is so minimal that there is no contamination in the loop because it's applied to the outside of the barbs... I have tried the hot water method without too much success. Whatever works for you

Your project is looking excellent! I recently bought the same case for an ultra-quiet recording studio computer build. I'm psyched to get it going. Keep up the good work. How much will the powder coating cost?

[CyberDruid]

Thanks for the shots of the stripped case: that's endless possibilities there...

[troisanh]

nice build, subscribed.

[Cascades]

Your project is looking excellent! I recently bought the same case for an ultra-quiet recording studio computer build. I'm psyched to get it going. Keep up the good work. How much will the powder coating cost?

I decided not to powder-coat the case because the cost was getting a little out of hand. Two shops quoted me about $150 for everything. Besides, I added the sound-proofing material to the inside and almost get the same effect

Most of the other parts have been ordered and I will be updating the pictures next week.

[disruptfam]

any update's cascades?

[Cascades]

any update's cascades?

Oh yeah....

Got everything put together and it's running at 4GHz prime95 stable. I did get it up to 4.2GHz, but throttled it back for 24/7 use. The OCZ Flex Ram is running 1200MHz right now and I haven't pushed it at all.

I did have a problem with the onboard RAID0 controller showing there was an error any time I ran Diskeeper, but that was with an earlier BIOS. Now that the 9/13 bios is loaded, I need to test the RAID0 setup again.

The PWM is running a bit warm, so I added a fan to blow across it. I'm still looking for a PWM waterblock for this motherboard.

My daughter took her camera back, so I will have to wait until she brings it back so I can take a bunch of updated pics. In any case, here is one of the motherboard side. There isn't a whole lot of room to work in there with the two hard drive brackets on the floor.



Here's a couple of benchmarks I ran:





All in all, the system is running very fast and very cool with all of these loops. I should be updating the pics in the next few days.

Cheers!

[disruptfam]

WoW looking good cascade's the hd's won't be in that spot when you rig is completed will they??

[Cascades]

WoW looking good cascade's the hd's would be in that spot when you rig is completed will they??

Yes, as there is no where else I can place the five drives. They won't fit on the pump/reservoir side of the case. It isn't really a problem if I need to work on the motherboard because they can be removed very easily. All of the drives have long data and power leads attached to them.

Oh, I forgot to mention this.... I am running an Enermax Infiniti 720w PSU and it has a problem. If I try to shut the system down, the power to the motherboard shuts off, but one of the +12v rails stays powered-up. The pumps and fans keeps running. I have to reach around to the back of the PSU and flip the switch off. Looks like I need to get a different PSU next week.

[.Logic]

Oh, I forgot to mention this.... I am running an Enermax Infiniti 720w PSU and it has a problem. If I try to shut the system down, the power to the motherboard shuts off, but one of the +12v rails stays powered-up. The pumps and fans keeps running. I have to reach around to the back of the PSU and flip the switch off. Looks like I need to get a different PSU next week.

Don't get a new PSU!! The pumps and fans are supposed to stay on for a while so the remaining heat is dissipated from the system (feature of the PSU, I think it's called cool guard or ever cool I'm not sure). If you leave the PSU on, you will see what I mean

[Jedda]

Yep! That's no bug, that's a feature. lol

# CoolGuard: The new patent feature, running not only PSU fan after shutdown, but all system fans to get the
# Heat out of the system and increasing system lifetime by up to 20%

[septim]

and how long (minutes) does this feature last?

[Cascades]

CoolGuard.....

[peebee]

Could you please show again a newer picture of the Pumpside?
I am thinking everyday of the way to install my pumps. It is getting on my nerves. I must have the case soon. (february it will be mine :-p ) The swiftech reservoirs seem to be the best choice to me.

I am using 2 DDC+ pumps with an alphacool-top. It has an inlet above like petra´s top an a second inlet in the front close to the outlet.

I would like to place a tee (d-tek has nice ones or just a usual tee). One tube will directly go into the reservoir and the other one goes directly into an inlet of the pumps top. so another tube will lead from the reservoir into the other inlet of the pump. But I have no idea, if I have enough space in the Pump-side of the case for that.

Maybe a pic from above with removed Top? Is there a pic in your files?
Should be complicated with the PSU, is it?

[Cascades]

I should have the camera back in a day or so. I can not take off the top because the top radiator is connected to the 3rd loop.

If you are using reservoirs, why would you use a tee? The MCRES-MICRO reservoir does a very good job getting rid of the bubbles.

Res->Pump->Radiator->CPU->Res

The power supply is mounted higher than stock to give clearance to the pumps that are mounted low on the vertical panel. I suggest you get the case first so you can see how everything fits together.

Cheers!