I was supposed to get that set from another place ordering from performance but they said performance is waiting on their shipment from the manufacturer.... damm.... hey ranker would you be kind enough to link me to each part in the set so I can make sure Im getting the right ones....performance links ofcourse...thanks
I bought the bigNg and sensorbus directly from mcubed at the following link.
http://www.mcubed-store.com/catalog/...php?cPath=1_35
It was expensive shipping, but Performance PC was not carrying a lot of this stuff back when I purchased. Actually, if you register at the mcubed store and then go back in, the prices drop for some reason.![]()
The shipping was by air and had tracking.
I just today received the digital sensor expansion set and purchased from performance PC. I think I calculated that if you buy from Performance PC versus Austria (mcubed), it basically is a wash. I would buy from PPC if buying today since they have everything.
If you look at my pictures, you will see a Tee before the reservoir. This has a $15.00 temperature probe that screws in and plugs into the bigNG to measure the water temps. I actually bought two of the temperature probes and left one outside of the case and one in the water loop. I then calibrated the temp probe to the digital sensor (more accurate) and made the same shift to the one in the water to get a more realistic water temp.
Pretty neat stuff to mess around with. This thread started me wanting this.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=114624
Last edited by Snyxxx; 06-05-2007 at 03:32 PM. Reason: Forgot some stuff
MM Extended U2-UFO CYO (Duality front, Standard back, Horizontal Mobo brace) Anodized Black || eVGA X58 || Intel i7 920 || 6 GB Corsair Dominator PC3-12800|| eVGA 295GTX || Asus Xonar Essence STX || VisionTek 650 TV Tuner || 1 300GB WD Velociraptor || 1TB WD's Black Ed. || LG 22X DVD-Writer || Lite-On 20x DVD-Writer || Corsair CMPSU-1000HX PSU
CPU Loop: DDC-2 w/ XSPC Reservoir Top -> Swiftech GTZ -> Thermochill PA120.3 (Push: 3 Scythe S-Flex G)
GPU Loop: DDC-2 w/ XSPC Reservoir Top -> (Koolance VID-NX295 FC block) ->Thermochill PA120.3 (Push: 3 Scythe S-Flex G)
Chipset Loop: DDC-2 w/ XSPC Reservoir Top -> Alphacool Silentstar Dual HD waterblock enclosure -> Bitspower Black Freezer eVGA x58 MOSFET-> Bitspower Black Freezer eVGA x58 NB -> Thermochill PA120.2 (Pull: 2 Scythe S-Flex G)
2 x Dell 2408FPW LCD || Logitech Z-5500 Digital 5.1 || Logitech G9 Mouse || Logitech G15 LCD Keyboard || Logitech Quickcam Ultravision || Sennheiser Headphones
Can you give us a link to this please? It might be something I am interested in as well.Originally Posted by Snyxxx
Here is the link to the temperature probe.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=20435
I bought the G1/4 Tee from Sharka.
First of all I wanted to thank Synxxx for the link. I always appreciate people who are interested in what is really going on in their loop to do some simple experimentation.
Dude... and you complain about the Aquaero being expensive? That BigNG thing is a $100 and doesn't even come with a LCD or a way to easily mount in your box due to it's odd shape.
I just can't believe adding NB, SB, and two useless mosfet blocks only dropped flow .5LPM. That's nuts. What change did you see in your CPU temps with the added blocks? That's a TON of heat for a pa120.2...
Phenom II 940 BE / ASUS M4A79 / HD5770 Crossfire
3770mhz CPU 2600mhz NB | DDR1040 5-5-5-15 | 900/1250
afireinside,
I could not believe it either, but it is certainly true. Ran the flow test many times and the results were the same.
I was only going to add the NB/SB blocks at first to the GPU and CPU blocks and run the flow test.
However, once I got everything out and undone, I did not want to redo that again for awhile and added the two MOSFET blocks since they must mount from the bottom of the MB. I hate that design.
My temps did not change but a degree or two if I remember correctly. I think it may be in my post somewhere. All four of the blocks added were low restriction type.I think the storm and EK FC block grabbed all the flow and everything else just did not matter that much.
Seeing is believing for me though.
Seriously stop trying to post on all threads about AC products. We get enough of that crap from you already. It's obvious that you'll dig a thread up just for the sake of pimping AC's name.
Who cares about an LCD in the first place? Most people don't even look at their LCD. I have a Matrix Orbital and dumped it the 1st week. I'm not going to be starring at my LCD. Why? Because I got betterto do. Another reason? mcubed's software and widgets provide me all the info I need on my sidebar without having to glance under my desk.
LCD's great for the bling but it offers little use. Sorta like most AC products.
MM Extended U2-UFO CYO (Duality front, Standard back, Horizontal Mobo brace) Anodized Black || eVGA X58 || Intel i7 920 || 6 GB Corsair Dominator PC3-12800|| eVGA 295GTX || Asus Xonar Essence STX || VisionTek 650 TV Tuner || 1 300GB WD Velociraptor || 1TB WD's Black Ed. || LG 22X DVD-Writer || Lite-On 20x DVD-Writer || Corsair CMPSU-1000HX PSU
CPU Loop: DDC-2 w/ XSPC Reservoir Top -> Swiftech GTZ -> Thermochill PA120.3 (Push: 3 Scythe S-Flex G)
GPU Loop: DDC-2 w/ XSPC Reservoir Top -> (Koolance VID-NX295 FC block) ->Thermochill PA120.3 (Push: 3 Scythe S-Flex G)
Chipset Loop: DDC-2 w/ XSPC Reservoir Top -> Alphacool Silentstar Dual HD waterblock enclosure -> Bitspower Black Freezer eVGA x58 MOSFET-> Bitspower Black Freezer eVGA x58 NB -> Thermochill PA120.2 (Pull: 2 Scythe S-Flex G)
2 x Dell 2408FPW LCD || Logitech Z-5500 Digital 5.1 || Logitech G9 Mouse || Logitech G15 LCD Keyboard || Logitech Quickcam Ultravision || Sennheiser Headphones
i wonder what your results would be if you replaced that storm with a fusion...
Core i5 750 3.8ghz, TRUE 120 w/Panaflo M1A 7v
ASRock P55 Deluxe
XFX 5870
2x2GB GSkill Ripjaw DDR3-1600
Samsung 2233RZ - Pioneer PDP-5020FD - Hyundai L90D+
Raptor WD1500ADFD - WD Caviar Green 1.5TB
X-FI XtremeMusic w/ LN4962
Seasonic S12-500
Antec P182
Just curious, are your barbs 3/8" or 1/2"? I know your tubing is 3/8"
Edit: ahhh thread revival
Heatware | Abit IP35 Pro | Intel E6750@3.8Ghz 1.56v | Storm R2 | Ballistix DDR2-8500 | Sapphire HD3870 512MB@TBA | MCW60 | WD Raptor 74GB | WD2500KS | OCZ GameXSteam 600w | SoundBlaster Audigy 2 ZS | DT770/80Pro | WinTV PVR-250 | Antec P180 | 7 Yate Loon D12SL-12 | AQ50Z | PA120.2 Custom Painted | BIP GTS 120mm | MasterKleer 7/16 Tubing | VX924 | G15 Keyboard/G5 Mouse/Steelpad QCK+
His barbs are 1/2" and his tubing is 3/8". I just did a similar build with the new Primoflex LRT. It's a nightmare to get on, but it'll NEVER leak and the bend radius of the new stuff is even better than the old stuff.
Please note: I am not here to provide any kind of official NCIX support on these forums.
For faster (and official) service please contact me at Linus@ncix.com, or please contact our customer care team at wvvw.NCIX.com (Canada) or wvvw.NCIXUS.com (America)
Heatware: http://heatware.com/eval.php?id=25647
Correct, 1/2" barbs and no leaks.
I thought 7/16 over 1/2 was a nightmare enough, I have it somewhat mastered now. It is much tougher on plastic barbs than metal ones.
How do you go about putting 3/8" over 1/2"? I'd like to venture down this but I really don't want to go through hell and back in order to do it. Do you boil the tube ends and then slip it on? I was looking at this tubing: http://www.jab-tech.com/Tygon-Silver...7-pr-4103.html
I need the silver for a build I'm making![]()
Heatware | Abit IP35 Pro | Intel E6750@3.8Ghz 1.56v | Storm R2 | Ballistix DDR2-8500 | Sapphire HD3870 512MB@TBA | MCW60 | WD Raptor 74GB | WD2500KS | OCZ GameXSteam 600w | SoundBlaster Audigy 2 ZS | DT770/80Pro | WinTV PVR-250 | Antec P180 | 7 Yate Loon D12SL-12 | AQ50Z | PA120.2 Custom Painted | BIP GTS 120mm | MasterKleer 7/16 Tubing | VX924 | G15 Keyboard/G5 Mouse/Steelpad QCK+
Yes, I take a glass of water, put it in the microwave for two minutes just when the boiling bubbles appear. I then dip one end of the hose in it for about 10 seconds and push it onto the barb. I then cut the right length of tubing and then repeat with the other end.
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