Laing DDC pump repair PCB mod

[Martinm210]

martin - i watched your video and noticed that the coil assembly came off while you were desoldering the wires. I'm thinking that the 10W pump has more winds on each of the 6 coils compared to the newer DDC3.1's giving the DDC3.1 higher RPM output and amp draw.

My question is, if anyone has tried re-winding the 10W pumps with lesser winds to bring it up to DDC3.1 specs and using the Toshiba pcb. If i had spare pumps to try out, i would do this. Count the number of winds/coil of the 18W version and wind the exact amount on the 10W version.

Yeah, I didn't intend for the coil to come out that way, it actually made more work for me in gluing it back in there, but it was easier to remove the coil wires that way without tweezers.

I'm not an electrical guy, but I assumed the winding difference was not so much the number of windings, but the orientation of the windings? The DDC3 series pumps have the windings wrapped parallel to the perimeter. Completely different magnets as well. You could always try it, but I don't have any deceased pumps left now...they have all been brought back to life..

I've notice that your are installing an heatsink on the SANYO PCB.
Is it usefull for the Toshiba too? It came just as showed before, w/o heatsink I mean. I'm using my revived pump @10V, it's a bit hot.

The pump on the left is the dead one. It has this coil :

This is the back of the revived one (sorry for no preview and bad soldering):

Swapping the red rotor with the blue one will make the pump operate better? I still have some probs understanding the color revisions of Laing impellers...

Not the smaller PCB version, it looks like it's made specifically for the Sanyo IC. I don't think there is room for it inside the case either on a DDC3 pump, there is just enough room for the toshiba PCB. The Sanyo also has the IC on the bottom where the Toshiba sits on top.

The Toshiba on the DDC-1 could use one of the magnets as a heat sink though, it sits about 3/4 directly below one of the large magnet flat spots, so I did just that when I did the DDC1/Toshiba. I scraped away the paint on the magnet and put some heavy/thick TIM on the IC. The DDC-1 also doesn't draw as much current on the Toshiba, so heat should be lower anyhow.

I would simply look into heatsinks for the casing base if you want to cool a DDC3.

He does have that decoupler/heatsink that extends beyond the base. That would help spread the heat:

http://cgi.ebay.com/DDC-pump-bottom-...ht_1207wt_1005

Or you could make your own, or Koolance, or Swiftech is coming out with one....lots of options.

Not sure on the impellers if it makes any difference or not. I know the current tops are designed for the smaller inlet opening on the blue impellers, so but I'm not sure what is different internally if anything.

I kind of like the Toshiba on the DDC1 pump as it is. It's quite a bit smoother in sound than the DDC3 pump and I suspect it's more powerful than the Sanyo on a DDC-1. The noise was a bit too much on the DDC3 for my taste, but it's not bad on the DDC-1. More tinkering and testing is in order on the Toshiba/DDC-1..