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  1. #1
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    Thanks. I did, but it was the same. So I tried to change all the cores' multiplier one by one before blued(or greened) them out by disabling the Turbo, and it was the same.

    So I tried the same thing, plus enabling Real Time Ratio in OS.. And it worked! Sorry, first time build and first time overclocking



    GA-P67A-UD5 | i5 2500K | Armageddon + Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM 120mm + Slip Stream 1200RPM 140mm | Ripjaws X 8Gb 1600 CL8-8-8-24 + Turbulence II 2x3500RPM |
    Gigabyte GTX 460 1 GB Super OverClock | C300 128GB | Caviar Green 1TB + HDD Cooler 2x4500RPM 100mm | HD501LJ 500Gb + HDD Cooler 2x4500RPM 100mm |
    Case Fan 140mm + 2 x Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM 120mm | WPN311 Wireless PCI Adapter | USB 2.0 Hi-Speed 5-Port PCI Card | DVD-RW/DVD+RW Drive | HX650 |
    Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit


    [SIGPIC]http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1654868[/SIGPIC]


  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by kadombing View Post
    Thanks. I did, but it was the same. So I tried to change all the cores' multiplier one by one before blued(or greened) them out by disabling the Turbo, and it was the same.

    So I tried the same thing, plus enabling Real Time Ratio in OS.. And it worked! Sorry, first time build and first time overclocking

    VERY very odd.
    What bios version are you using?
    Usually a cmos clear with the power plug disabled fixes weird stuff like that.
    Though I flashed f6d in MS DOS with spiflash.

    I disabled real time ratio in OS, always kept it disabled, and I always had everything else disabled (except bi directional prochot), and I never had a problem with the multiplier lowering.
    I also have all power saving stuff (besides screensavers) disabled in windows.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Falkentyne View Post
    VERY very odd.
    What bios version are you using?
    Usually a cmos clear with the power plug disabled fixes weird stuff like that.
    Though I flashed f6d in MS DOS with spiflash.

    I disabled real time ratio in OS, always kept it disabled, and I always had everything else disabled (except bi directional prochot), and I never had a problem with the multiplier lowering.
    I also have all power saving stuff (besides screensavers) disabled in windows.
    Oh, I didn't reset the cmos. I'm using F6. Actually I too disabled everything else, but somehow it didn't worked with real time ratio disabled. Couldn't be bother to reset cmos at that time.

    Another thing is that EasyTunes wouldn't let me change ratio from the OS because all the arrows were messed up like a graphical error. But after rebooting(and making a different profile) it worked.


    GA-P67A-UD5 | i5 2500K | Armageddon + Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM 120mm + Slip Stream 1200RPM 140mm | Ripjaws X 8Gb 1600 CL8-8-8-24 + Turbulence II 2x3500RPM |
    Gigabyte GTX 460 1 GB Super OverClock | C300 128GB | Caviar Green 1TB + HDD Cooler 2x4500RPM 100mm | HD501LJ 500Gb + HDD Cooler 2x4500RPM 100mm |
    Case Fan 140mm + 2 x Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM 120mm | WPN311 Wireless PCI Adapter | USB 2.0 Hi-Speed 5-Port PCI Card | DVD-RW/DVD+RW Drive | HX650 |
    Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit


    [SIGPIC]http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1654868[/SIGPIC]


  4. #4
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    Hey guy, sorry to hear you got that nasty bug like me. For the record, I also have a Creative X-Fi Xtrememusic on one of the PCI slots. I was extremely annoyed with all of this cold boot issue and (knock on wood) i think i might have cracked it for the last 2 days. I don't want to bring anyone's hopes up but it appears to be extremely related to the CPU clock + PCI card + the power line of the house going to your system + the quality of the Active PFC on your power supply unit. ( Did i just mention like 90% of the components, lol)

    So what i did first was bought a voltage regulator that connects my rig + monitor only and as soon i fired it up it registered that my line was overvolting and the unit was correcting it. Next i lowered my CPU down to 4.6 ghz and left the voltage a little bit higher - same as for my 4.9 ghz stable clocks. Ram was set to 2133mhz Cl7 as with its specs. At these settings my machine was having problems cold booting before w/o the voltage regulator but now it seems to be running fine for the last 2 days w/o any cold booting issues. At the same time i noticed a bit higher values for the 3,3v line from ET6 with the voltage regulator which suggests that the Active PFC of my power supply was not coping properly regulating the voltage from the house line. Also i noticed that BCLK exactly at 100mhz was making things more stable than to let the mobo default it at 99.8mhz.

    First i would suggest to try and lower your CPU speed down to like 4.4 ghz with memories at the right specs and slowly build it up multi by multi until it starts cold booting or if it is cold booting w/o any CPU overclocks try and get a voltage regulator - it is always better to have one anyways (~30$). Right now if i increase the CPU multiplier to 47 it has issues cold booting from the first time but it is stable once it boots to windows, up to 49 multi with 2133mhz ram. This is all still testing things but so far i had like 5 successful cold boots w/o any problems with 2133mhz ram (XMP - profile1).
    Last edited by TurboDiv; 02-11-2011 at 11:09 PM.
    i9 9900K/1080 Ti

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by kadombing View Post
    Oh, I didn't reset the cmos. I'm using F6. Actually I too disabled everything else, but somehow it didn't worked with real time ratio disabled. Couldn't be bother to reset cmos at that time.

    Another thing is that EasyTunes wouldn't let me change ratio from the OS because all the arrows were messed up like a graphical error. But after rebooting(and making a different profile) it worked.
    DEFINITELY reset the cmos. I found that the board was giving me 8x PCIE at 100 mhz (auto) and 99.8 and below, but was giving me 16x at 100.1 or 100.2. When I reset the cmos, auto gave me 16x PCIE again.

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