Rotary Fitting leaking!! Suggestions needed.

[NKrader]

just use duct tape.

[MUGEN02]

It's funny how everyone recommends BP rotaries even though they were the first to start leaking and we still see topics about them leaking pop up from time to time. The only rotary fittings I don't recall seeing a "help, my rotaries are leaking" topic about are Koolance. I could be wrong on that but honestly, I really don't recall seeing any "leaking" topics about them. If I'm wrong, please link me.

Koolance Tim responds

"Fittings with multiple o-rings have more areas of potential failure. We have taken steps to improve their reliability. The largest change has been in switching to EPDM rubber (black) o-rings from the earlier silicone (red). It makes swiveling joints a little harder to rotate and QDCs a bit harder to connect/disconnect, but the material is more robust. We have also reduced fit tolerance on many fittings.

Our EPDM o-rings are available separately on our website, but not all types of fittings can be serviced in that way. Later angled nozzles and female QDC fittings are permanently sealed. Generally, the internal o-ring material will match the thread collar o-ring (which is visible)."
http://forums.koolance.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1467

[astrodanco]

Simply mix/match/add a fitting/compression to any swivel fitting you want and you can achieve the same effect as any BP.

I disagree. A single fitting that combines compression with rotary is not the at all the same as screwing a compression fitting into a rotary fitting. A single fitting that combines barb with rotary is not at all the same as screwing a barb fitting into a rotary fitting. It doesn't take very much thought about the mechanics of the situation (tube torque causing the separate fittings to unscrew from each other) to realize that either. This is why Bitspower makes barbs and compressions with built-in rotaries. They're not just trying to create specialized parts where multiple parts connected together would do just as well. Multiple parts connected together would NOT do just as well in this case. Fittings with built-in rotaries and fittings which combine multiple functions into a single fitting are a a real breath of fresh air.

[Church]

Also integrated ones are cheaper then one you make with screwing in compression or barb into rotary. I don't know how might differ flow resistance between rotary with G1/4 and separate barb/compression vs integrated one, but i'm guessing that integrated might have larger ID, no?

[Waterlogged]

I hope you guys will forgive me if I play the world's saddest song on the smallest violin for you when you say you have to use all these swivel fittings in your builds because you can't figure out a way to properly radii a tube in a case the size of a closet.



I'm from the old school days when you got e-castrated for using an elbow, so I use as little of the stuff as possible out of habit...and in much smaller cases than you guys. Your builds will still look good without all that crap if you would just be willing to put in a little serious effort during layout.

[IMG]snip[/IMG]

Koolance Tim responds

"Fittings with multiple o-rings have more areas of potential failure. We have taken steps to improve their reliability. The largest change has been in switching to EPDM rubber (black) o-rings from the earlier silicone (red). It makes swiveling joints a little harder to rotate and QDCs a bit harder to connect/disconnect, but the material is more robust. We have also reduced fit tolerance on many fittings.

Our EPDM o-rings are available separately on our website, but not all types of fittings can be serviced in that way. Later angled nozzles and female QDC fittings are permanently sealed. Generally, the internal o-ring material will match the thread collar o-ring (which is visible)."
http://forums.koolance.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1467

I stand corrected, thanks for the link MUGEN02.

[Fatfool]

I hope you guys will forgive me if I play the world's saddest song on the smallest violin for you when you say you have to use all these swivel fittings in your builds because you can't figure out a way to properly radii a tube in a case the size of a closet.


I'm from the old school days when you got e-castrated for using an elbow, so I use as little of the stuff as possible out of habit...and in much smaller cases than you guys. Your builds will still look good without all that crap if you would just be willing to put in a little serious effort during layout.

In my case, it was required. This case wasn't designed for such large radiators so I had to work around it. To cool both the graphics card and processor (both have high heat output), I'd need at least 2 X 120mm radiators. But only a single 120mm could be inside the case as the second one would interfere with the full cover block. Not just any slim one either. I had to get a highly efficient one. But the size of an efficient one required the use elbows to divert the inlet and outlet around the large radiator. I'd rather got with normal compressions too. but when you're working in such a case, despite its size, it was never meant for such large rads.


This was the built in cofig previously:




I couldn't liquid cool my card with that built in rad. The case door simply wouldn't close if there was a FC block on.

It's not because of poor planning. I planned this loop for months, measuring and re measuring the dimensions.

[Fatfool]

just use duct tape.

That's a quick fix. not one that'll hold for long.

[Fatfool]

Wow. Fantastic results after using it with that leakage previously:





I'm not even sure it's just the fitting on the left that's leaking anymore.

My card is still fine though. No liquid got between the block and card. Looks like no more games or even usage on that rig till the enzo fittings arrive. sheesh..... btw feser told me to contact the dealer.

[rootz0r]

Seems like Feser is trying to dodge the blame on this on =/... Hope those Enzo fittings work better for you.

[Waterlogged]

Well, it looks like you might be learning that Fester isn't a really good company to support, a little late but your learning.

I would have gone with a Swiftech MCR120 on the door which would have allowed you to use a standard straight compression fitting instead of the swivel that is leaking. With the sheer amount of water cooling hardware available nowadays, there is almost always an answer to avoid swivels/angled fittings.

[Fatfool]

Well, it looks like you might be learning that Fester isn't a really good company to support, a little late but your learning.

I would have gone with a Swiftech MCR120 on the door which would have allowed you to use a standard straight compression fitting instead of the swivel that is leaking. With the sheer amount of water cooling hardware available nowadays, there is almost always an answer to avoid swivels/angled fittings.

TBH, I'd have gone for EK rads if given the choice to choose again. I'd even be able to move the back mounted radiator's fan into the case. arg! why didn't EK have those rads back then!!

the MCR120 would have worked for elimination of swivels on the blocks but I doubt it'd have been able to keep the QX6700 and Radeon 5870 anywhere near decent temps.

btw it's not just 'the swivel that's leaking' it is 'The swivels that are leaking'. the one on the processor is leaking too though it leaks slowly onto the northbridge cooler where the liquid evaporates so it doesn't cause hell to break loose.

[Waterlogged]

TBH, I'd have gone for EK rads if given the choice to choose again. I'd even be able to move the back mounted radiator's fan into the case. arg! why didn't EK have those rads back then!!

the MCR120 would have worked for elimination of swivels on the blocks but I doubt it'd have been able to keep the QX6700 and Radeon 5870 anywhere near decent temps.

btw it's not just 'the swivel that's leaking' it is 'The swivels that are leaking'. the one on the processor is leaking too though it leaks slowly onto the northbridge cooler where the liquid evaporates so it doesn't cause hell to break loose.

I think the EK's might still be a bit too thick for that area. I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss the MCRs, they were designed by BillA after all. Not sure what RPM your Noctua is running at but compare the Fester to the MCR (non stacked) for some eye opening results.

[Fatfool]

Seems like Feser is trying to dodge the blame on this on =/... Hope those Enzo fittings work better for you.

yep. hope they work out fine with herbie clips this time. Now i just gotta wait for it to bounce around the US before being shipped here.

Specialtech seems to be helpful though.

[Fatfool]

I think the EK's might still be a bit too thick for that area. I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss the MCRs, they were designed by BillA after all. Not sure what RPM your Noctua is running at but compare the Fester to the MCR (non stacked) for some eye opening results.

Ok now that is eye opening. those noctuas run at 1300 RPM, nearly smack in the region where the lines intersect. maybe the MCR inside and EK outside would have been better. though the EK at that RPM may not be doing so well either.

[Fatfool]

Well, the 'RMA' procedure went smoothly. Mr Adrian Mundy saw the pictures and will ship the replacements without myself needing to send the leaky fittings there. He went the extra mile sending it outside of the EU, more like half way round the globe to Singapore (Tiny island in south east asia) where I live.

So guys, thats www.specialtech.co.uk for you.