Rotary Fitting leaking!! Suggestions needed.

[Fatfool]

Use Bitspower rotary compressions.

Such as this double rotary:



Or this triple rotary:



But in your tubing size.

I know, I know, you'd rather eat at McDonalds...

To be honest, other than the cost, I'm quite apprehensive as that sort of rotary actually has even more chance to leak.... (more rotary joints after all)

Full cover block - 100 USD
Rotary Fitting - 20 USD

Something's wrong here. Sure both aren't mass produced parts and both are targeted at enthusiasts but that kind of price comparison shows the absurdity of the price of a fitting. Full cover blocks obviously demand higher investment and time to design. Those C & C machines aren't cheap to rent either. But fittings manufacture?
Reason? Full cover blocks are produced in different and completing designs by ~ 10 companies. they range from ~80 USD (eg XSPC) to 120 USD (eg watercool) for single GPU blocks.
Rotaries have like ~ 3 companies making em'. Plus it's the focus product of 1 of them and that company dominates the market. For the other 2, it's a sort of side business.

[Fatfool]

My apologies, I should have mentioned that I've only used the enzo compressions and 45 rotaries. Both have been top notch, I'd put them up against my BP's which is a pleasant surprise! I've pulled very hard on the enzo 45 to see if I could make it leak. No leaks so I'd recommend them to anyone -- if you can find enzos in the size you need. TO be completely honest, the BP style compressions have a better finish IMHO. You would have to be very picky (and I am) to notice. I've asked several people that have seen my rig and no one can tell the difference (but me).

I think this is because the BP's are silver plated whereas the enzo's are nickel? For the price difference, enzo are the best price performance ration I've used.

That 90 you showed looks like a koolance... Does it have a red o ring?

I see. Well, that's good. Generally, I haven't had any problems with vanilla compression fittings so far. The only rotary enzo I can find in my size is the 90 degree 1/4" ones. but that'll do. How do I attach the hose to the barb securely? any herbie clips?

BPs are silver plated?! didn't know that... won't it tarnish? And if that's why it's so expensive (to manufacture, the silver should be negligible), then shouldn't their matt black ones be cheaper? But no? those are even more expensive haha. I generally don't give a damn about the plating so long as it's not something silly and reactive. Never had any corrosion anyway. I prefer pre mixed coolants instead of messing around with distilled and PT nuke so I guess that helps.

Did i mention that the case doesn't have window?

That 90 degree 1/2" rotary doesn't have a red o ring. It came in a plastic packet. the sticker on the packet is in Deutsch. Number 62138




Lemme start making a list of stuff to order.. maybe I'll get 6 enzo rotaries. Gotta plan as I'm using a freight forwarder to ship it half the way across the globe. Living on a small island in an unknown part of the world has its disadvantages. Thankfully the currency isn't that far from the USD. 1 USD = 1.3 SGD.

[Fatfool]

It's not a rotary. A rotary lets you swivle it AFTER you tighten the oring down. The BP's ones in the pic here have a seperate ring that allows it to rotate. The Feser doen't besides it a pure 90 degree, and the inside is much more restrictive than the BP ones.

Feser says rotary, but it's not in my book. Typical Feser.

Where it's leaking looks more like a hose size problem.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=244290

Oh come on it is a rotary. just a very leaky one that leaks from both the rotary area and the thread area.





There's even that one that rotates on its own when the case door is opened and shut.

Hose problem? can't be. I'm using it for 1/4" ID, 3/8" OD tygon tubing. the rest of the fitting's don't leak like this.

[Fatfool]

I was also afraid about my 45ºC rotaries (TFC ones...) but fortunately for me, they don't leak. I think that you should try to buy new ones, you may get better luck...because Bitspower in Europe is ridiculously expensive.


PS: how the heck do you have all of that with only a 120mm rad?????????

if it's expensive in europe, imagine how expensive it'll be if I buy it from the US and then ship it half way across the world to south east asia. Then imagine how much more it costs to me as we earn say about 1/2 to 1/3 of what a typical west european would earn.

sure the taxes ain't that high and income rates aren't as low as developing countries like China and India but you get the idea.

[Fatfool]

You see 2 tubes goes out on back... prob rad back mounted

yep. there's another 120mm feser behind there.

I figured that I'd either be playing games (load on the 5870) or encoding (load on the QX6700). not both at the same time so why not allow some load balancing instead of going for like a 240 or 360. the temps should be fine if I don't do some silly stress test on both the proc and the card. I was right

[Fatfool]

Have you tried contacting Feser? Maybe they can give you a replacement.

Done that. First reply:

What kind of block is this? I think the block does not have the right g1/4 thread.

[Humminn55]

(yes, I use multiple tubing types with Feser one black. Not recommended but no coagulation though )

You mean you're using Feser One Purple. And good luck getting the stains out it'll leave in your MicroRes. Had to trash one after using the same crap a couple of years ago.

[Fatfool]

After you locate the problem with the leak, be sure to take that block off your video card and check for water just to be safe.

Problem has been located. I've run my finger on the other side of the fitting. All's clear. no liquid marks either. the feser one black leaves a lot of dye when it flows and dries up so I'm safe

Still using the comp because of this haha!

[Humminn55]

Done that. First reply:

Don't you know? There are Feser G1/4 threads and then everyone else's G1/4 threads.

[Fatfool]

You mean you're using Feser One Purple. And good luck getting the stains out it'll leave in your MicroRes. Had to trash one after using the same crap a couple of years ago.

it says black but yeah. it looks like a very dark purple.

So far so good on the micro res. the liquid level has dropped but there hasn't been a stain.

[Orangey]

On my GPU block (EK 5850) you must use a spacer or a fitting with a stubby thread on the copper side. The reason being that the thread on that side is shorter. Maybe someone can expand on this, I'm not exactly an expert.

I don't know if this helps but thought I would mention it as my block was leaking in the exact same place until I used a spacer.

As far as replacements go, a (Bitspower) "cube" elbow fitting might be small enough even when combined with a mini dual-male G1/4" adaptor.

[ButtSprinkles]

koolance fittings dont have threads becuase no one buys them

All the comp fittings on my setup are koolance, btw. No Problems and its been running for about 6 months now.

Anyway back on topic...

...Yeah, um, Feser basically just said "STFU, noob."

[mbreslin]

2 small things to add..

You mentioned something about a rotary that moves when you open the case door, yes they're called rotaries and yes they move, that doesn't mean I'd want any of mine moving all the time and expect none to ever leak. They're convenient in that you may change your mind on the direction you need them to face or something like that but to just be moving them or even just 1 all the time I don't think I'd chance it. (I know your problem fitting probably isn't moved I'm just speaking generally).

I was a complete beginner and went with all bitspower compressions/rotaries and I'm sure I was much harder on them than I should have been trying to get everything how I wanted it. Tweaking and removing and bending and what have you and I've never had 1 leak that wasn't completely my fault (not tightening fitting enough or fitting became loose when trying to move a rotary counter-clockwise after loop is filled). Yes they're expensive but so far they seem worth it to me (newbie proof and no leaks after many rebuilds).

Good luck.

Edit: Probably too late for a change but I went with 20 noctuas and just recently changed to 20 s-flex F's, I love them. You can turn them down to where they push more air than noctuas and they have nearly the same noise signature and most importantly they're not horribly ugly. If you like the look of them disregard, if you don't care that once you put a grill or something in front of them they practically stop pushing anything but a hint of air disregard.

[Fatfool]

next Reply:

I think danger den blocks are with Bspp 1/4 which is not exactly like G1/4"

[Sneaky]

You have to be careful with some of the rotary fittings - at each rotary connection there is a small o-ring inside there, which may leak if you put too much force on the fitting, which would end up tilting the connection just enough that it would break the seal with the o-ring and case a leak.

If you're set on using rotary compression fittings, look no further than the BitsPower range of fittings - these are by far the best rotary/compression fittings available on the market today, and as said above, you really shouldn't have problems with leakage if you put a bit of force on the fitting via the tubing

[Fatfool]

On my GPU block (EK 5850) you must use a spacer or a fitting with a stubby thread on the copper side. The reason being that the thread on that side is shorter. Maybe someone can expand on this, I'm not exactly an expert.

I don't know if this helps but thought I would mention it as my block was leaking in the exact same place until I used a spacer.

As far as replacements go, a (Bitspower) "cube" elbow fitting might be small enough even when combined with a mini dual-male G1/4" adaptor.

I compared the feser fitting with the 1/4" straight barb fitting the danger den block with. It definitely has a shorter thread. (as in the threading extends more for the danger den fittings.

as for the cube, it's this one?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=22950
It's not a rotary though...

[Fatfool]

2 small things to add..

You mentioned something about a rotary that moves when you open the case door, yes they're called rotaries and yes they move, that doesn't mean I'd want any of mine moving all the time and expect none to ever leak. They're convenient in that you may change your mind on the direction you need them to face or something like that but to just be moving them or even just 1 all the time I don't think I'd chance it. (I know your problem fitting probably isn't moved I'm just speaking generally).

I was a complete beginner and went with all bitspower compressions/rotaries and I'm sure I was much harder on them than I should have been trying to get everything how I wanted it. Tweaking and removing and bending and what have you and I've never had 1 leak that wasn't completely my fault (not tightening fitting enough or fitting became loose when trying to move a rotary counter-clockwise after loop is filled). Yes they're expensive but so far they seem worth it to me (newbie proof and no leaks after many rebuilds).

Good luck.

Edit: Probably too late for a change but I went with 20 noctuas and just recently changed to 20 s-flex F's, I love them. You can turn them down to where they push more air than noctuas and they have nearly the same noise signature and most importantly they're not horribly ugly. If you like the look of them disregard, if you don't care that once you put a grill or something in front of them they practically stop pushing anything but a hint of air disregard.

Yep. I was worried about that moving rotary as well. I started a thread on it too But all seems fine for now.

as for bitspower fittings, too expensive in my opinion. If I really had to use bitspower only, I'd rather trash my entire liquid cooling loop, buy another 5870 and crossfire it on air. Gonna try Enzotech this time.

as for the noctuas, yep weird colour. I have 2 S-Flex 1600 RPM for my case too. they'll probably do better on my rads but I like bizarre stuff. Gotta have those grills there. Not gonna lose part of my finger to them. There's one on the back radiator too. Dangerous to move the case around if there's an exposed fan at the back. Btw, this casing has wheels so I often move it around and open it even when it's running.

[Fatfool]

All the comp fittings on my setup are koolance, btw. No Problems and its been running for about 6 months now.

Anyway back on topic...

...Yeah, um, Feser basically just said "STFU, noob."

Koolance seems a little icky to me.... not sure why but the brand has never seemed favourable. it seems like 'ZOMG LOOK AT ME', you know.... attention whoring. But I may be wrong. They don't have rotaries too.

[Fatfool]

You have to be careful with some of the rotary fittings - at each rotary connection there is a small o-ring inside there, which may leak if you put too much force on the fitting, which would end up tilting the connection just enough that it would break the seal with the o-ring and case a leak.

If you're set on using rotary compression fittings, look no further than the BitsPower range of fittings - these are by far the best rotary/compression fittings available on the market today, and as said above, you really shouldn't have problems with leakage if you put a bit of force on the fitting via the tubing

yep. I've figure out how those rotaries work now. but that fitting is definitely leaky. shifting it around doesn't solve that break in the O ring so it's probably toast.

I'm pretty sure bitspower are the best. but even they leak. (though probably a lower chance). I'll be taking my chances with enzotech and herbie clips.

[astrodanco]

Any rotary is going to leak if one abuses it. They're not wheels. They're not meant to be rotated often.

[Fatfool]

Any rotary is going to leak if one abuses it. They're not wheels. They're not meant to be rotated often.

YES I KNOW. but that fitting that moves is not the problematic one. the leaking ones are those which don't move and are connected to my FC block and CPU block.

[Waterlogged]

Koolance seems a little icky to me.... not sure why but the brand has never seemed favourable. it seems like 'ZOMG LOOK AT ME', you know.... attention whoring. But I may be wrong. They don't have rotaries too.

Then I guess these are figments of the imagination.

http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...=&inc_subcat=1

(Pardon some of the flaky search results)

[Fatfool]

Then I guess these are figments of the imagination.

http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...=&inc_subcat=1

(Pardon some of the flaky search results)

Okay. their term is 'swivelling elbow'. me bad! but arg! no compression ones. only quick disconnects.

[Waterlogged]

Okay. their term is 'swivelling elbow'. me bad! but arg! no compression ones. only quick disconnects.

Koolance does things the simple way, this way they keep their SKU numbers low. Simply mix/match/add a fitting/compression to any swivel fitting you want and you can achieve the same effect as any BP.

[Fatfool]

Koolance does things the simple way, this way they keep their SKU numbers low. Simply mix/match/add a fitting/compression to any swivel fitting you want and you can achieve the same effect as any BP.

You forgot the last line.

'At an even higher price than BP'