**Need advice on Watercooling my Lian Li V2100B* Similar to Vadim Gaming PC's!!**

[Waterlogged]

Really? I had no idea that reviewers would do that. Honestly the only reason I am not going with distiller water is because I'm not very good with measuring and determining the right amount of PTNuke or whatever additive I use, to mix with a liter of water for example. xD IF you were to recommend a concentration how much of each additive would you add to a liter of distilled water? Is PTNuke + Killcoil a good combination? Or should I just stick with one. I am really looking for the best performing/least maintenance requiring liquid/coolant. -- And on a side note, a lil' color wouldn't hurt either (Still, if it requires more frequent maintenance, I can live without it)

Best mix would be to start the loop with 1-2 drops of PTNuke and have a killcoil inside the loop somewhere. Like that, when the drop(s) of Nuke fade out, the silver ion content from the coils would have been building up to do it's job. This setup is about as low maintenance as possible.

We've learned over time that Fester is only willing to hand out samples of their products to reviewers that will give their products favorable reviews, by whatever means necessary. Here are 2 such rigged reviews.

http://www.bjorn3d.com/read.php?cID=1704&pageID=7761 Not sure why this twit decided to try windshield washer fluid as a coolant but he did. I'm guessing it might have something to do with not being right in the head.

http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2008...uid_shootout/1

...and as far as non conductive claims, here's the truth about that.

One DDC is enough? -- And I thought my setup is restrictive. Keep in mind that I will be adding an additional XSPC RX120 and two Aquagratix COPPER waterblocks.

I am thinking about going with maybe... 2... but I still think three is good.

Well, I think 1 DDC 3.25 should be good enough to get you ~1GPM but 2 will be enough to pretty much guarantee 1.5GPM minimum.

BTW, I'd like to add in some Quick Disconnects.. I was thinking the Koolance VL3N due to its low drop in water flow yet it is a "no-spill" design. I have a question though... Kind of a noobie one but w.e. How exactly does it work? If I am going to connect two radiators for example and wanted to have the Quick Disconnects on both ends.. Would I have to use a female and a male connector for BOTH ends? Or would one male and one female connector be sufficient.

For each tube to part connection you want, you'll need 1 male and 1 female. . .so for each part (say a rad), you'll need 2 male and 2 female.

I've decided not to go with Aluminum... It's too much trouble lol. Instead of the XSPC Aluminum reservoir.. I was thinking of going with the FrozenQ liquid fusion reservoir. It's pricey yes.. But take a look at this...

Good decision on the XSPC. As for the FrozenQ, meh...not really my style. Just beware, he has had a handful of res's that developed some problems. . .bad glue joints, damaged CCFL, etc. Most of which I recalling him taking care of.

I've decided that I am going ALL-COPPER. Unfortunately, they do have a tendency to get discolored. Is there a way to reduce this ill effect?

Nickel plating is the most common method. There is also stuff like Brasso and Tarn-X that you can rub onto the sides and non contact points of the bottom that will slow or prevent the oxidation process. You do not want to put it on any of the contact points or inside the water channel inside the block as it will hurt thermal transfer. Honestly though, the discoloration doesn't affect thermal transfer, so it boils down to a bling factor.

I also heard that the Sunbeam is junk lol. I took it out and am going with all three of those kits you recommended xD

Anyways.. Thanks a lot for your insight in watercooling. This is my first time and am a bit overwhelmed.. Well not really xD

On another note, I still have to wait another 1-2 weeks for them to restock on the radiators... *sigh This build seems like it will never finish.

The most important thing is no matter how long it feels like it's taking, never rush. Take your time setting up and you'll avoid having to RMA expensive stuff and wait even longer.


Is there a reason for the Magicool rads? Swiftech makes the sizes your after for a little cheaper and they work a little better, and more importantly, they're in stock.