**Need advice on Watercooling my Lian Li V2100B* Similar to Vadim Gaming PC's!!**

[blazarcher]

I am planning on watercooling my Lian Li V2100B. I will be watercooling an Intel Core i7 930, EVGA X58 Classified MOBO, and 2 or maybe 3 GTX480's. I will have 3 radiators all in one loop for this setup. I'll have a 480mm Magicool Radiator, a 240mm radiator, and a Single 120mm XSPC radiator. The reason I am going with Magicool is because they will fit in the lower section of the case where there is limited space. Here is a picture of the case I found on the internet...


And here is how I want it to look like eventually.. First the exterior...



Now here is a very rough estimate of how I want the interior to look like...



Here is how the tubing and fittings (I want to go with Koolance but will stick with bitspower) will look like (ignore the excessive radiator setup)



And the GPU setup when the GTX 480 DD waterblocks come out...



NOTE I am not sure whether to go with PrimoChill Clear Coils or should I go with Pearls?

Anyways, I was wondering where I should get my side panels cut. I need them to look exactly like how it looks above. Has anyone worked with Performance-PCs before? They offer custom modding services as well and was wondering if it's ok to go with them. Lastly, are they any good at sleeving PSU cables? I am spending 100 dollars having my enermax 1050W PSU sleeved by them and was wondering how they would come out.

The water travels in this order: ****Look at my latest posts, my setup has changed a bit****

Reservoir > Pump > 120.4 Radiator > 120.2 Radiator > CPU block > northbridge block > 120.1 Radiator > VGA waterblocks > returns to the reservoir.

Going with two separate loops reduces the flow rate of my CPU loop considerably. This is why I am going with a single loop not to mention it is less messy.



Anyone have any idea whether the GOLD from the CPU block my deteriorate over time?

NOTE, This is my FIRST time watercooling. I know this is a bit ambitious but if your gonna go watercooling, you might as well go 100%.

[blazarcher]

If anyone would like to recommend any other fan other than the Noiseblocker M12-S3 HS for LOW noise/CFM that would be great. But for now I'll stick with these fans. The M12-P is actually even better but since it's a PWM version, it has a noticeable motor noise at low RPM's.

I was wondering where I could get an Enermax 1050W PSU sleeved (UNI-sleeved like in one of the pictures above). I am will to spend anywhere from 100 dollars to 200. Performance-PCS offer sleeving services but they don't specify how it will be sleeved.

[Inglewood78]

damn, thats quite a bit of change you are spending there. Don't forget to post up some pics when you are done

[blazarcher]

damn, thats quite a bit of change you are spending there. Don't forget to post up some pics when you are done

I sure will. But it will be a while till this all comes together. I am waiting for danger den to come out with some GTX480 waterblocks before I buy everything. Also the Magicool 240mm radiator are on back order so I'm gonna have to wait for them to restock on them.

I still need to get those side panels cut however, without those modded side panels, those radiators will be USELESS.

[blazarcher]

Just another update, I've decided to ditch the Enermax PSU for the Silverstone Strider 1500W PSU. Not only does it cost 100 dollars more but it has 50% more capacity. NOW this is what I call serious future-proofing. Think I made a good choice? Let me know.

[Church]

Check for reviews from trusty sources. I'm still prefering revolution 1250 with it's overall set of often best in class parameters, like quietness, voltage stability under load and high efficiency. It's looks also help a bit for moding projects
If i'd ever need more then it's power, i'd go for dual psu-s or 1700W liquid cooled psu.

[blazarcher]

Check for reviews from trusty sources. I'm still prefering revolution 1250 with it's overall set of often best in class parameters, like quietness, voltage stability under load and high efficiency. It's looks also help a bit for moding projects
If i'd ever need more then it's power, i'd go for dual psu-s or 1700W liquid cooled psu.

Yeah, actually I've checked reviews of both PSU. The 1250W Enermax isn't as good as the 1050W version. Odd I know but they are actually "different" version of the same PSU. The 1250W being the cheaper version. I can't find the review off the top of my head but they preferred the 1050 over the 1250 because it was not only quieter but MORE efficient.

I understand that the Enermax has the HIGHEST EFFICIENCY of all PSU currently out right now. But with the new GTX 480 and the upcoming ATI GPUs, this PSU will be pushed to its MAX.

However, if I went with the Silverstone, not only will it NOT be pushed to the max (meaning less overall noise) but it will be ready for any future GPUs as well.

Also, the Silverstone has MUCH longer cables and the case itself with its black ?polished? case looks SO MUCH better than the matte version of the Enermax. If you take a look at the pictures above, that Lian Li V2000B has the same PSU as well and it fits in perfect. Now imagine the Enermax being there instead, which would look better? Anyways, the Silverstone will be more efficient because it won't be pushed 100% and as we know with all PSU's, they perform worst when they are maxed out (also when running at extremely low loads). Finally the cables when they are "uni-sleeved" would be much better if I went with the Silverstone PSU because the cables are "extremely long" compared to the Enermax. This way I could make it look some what similar to the setup shown above. Because of this, I can't think of any other reason why not to go with the Silverstone over the Enermax. Sure the customer support of Enermax is much better and yeah, it also has the better reputation. But in terms of quality and craftsmanship, down to the soldering, the Silverstone wins here. Not only is it more powerful but it's quieter AND better looking by far.

[blazarcher]

Anyone know what those two things are?

[Church]

Actually Mod87+/Pro87+ pro have higher efficiency (revo+ rated silver, these lines - rated gold). But top of those lines are 900W and 700W respectively. As for 1250W being different and worse .. wierd .. only thing i now that's different in 'em is - in north america 1250W is sold under line name Galaxy Evo (with insides being almost 99.9% same as revo @worldwide), and in some reviews it was rated even higher (except efficiency though. as from review sounded that it's efficiency is a bit downtuned compared to revo+(though who knows if it's not simply because of 110V voltage being used @NA), but few minor flaws fixed, as in some components soldered more solid way).

[Waterlogged]

Anyone know what those two things are?

Those are reservoirs. Many res's of that type are made of aluminum and should be avoided. There are a few that are made from Delrin (aka POM), copper and brass that are OK to use. Those particular res's look like they are from AC.

[blazarcher]

Those are reservoirs. Many res's of that type are made of aluminum and should be avoided. There are a few that are made from Delrin (aka POM), copper and brass that are OK to use. Those particular res's look like they are from AC.

Why exactly are these to "be avoided"? Do they add "stuff" to your loop? (Like delrin) I'm actually going with the XSPC Aluminum radiators, are those alright? GRUNTVILLE have a review of the reservoir and they say that "The annodization process serves two purposes, it makes it look good and will prevent any chemical reactions that could lead to corrosion in your cooling system". Since these are made to fit 3/8" tubing, these reservoirs are very restrictive and will increase temps. Because of this, I won't be going with these. But I can see how these "might" cause trouble with your loop (adding harmful material). However, the XSPC radiators seem fine because the water isn't on "direct" contact with the bare aluminum.

[Waterlogged]

Why exactly are these to "be avoided"? Do they add "stuff" to your loop? (Like delrin) I'm actually going with the XSPC Aluminum radiators, are those alright?

Aluminum + copper or brass = galvanic corrosion (which is very bad). Also, the thermal transfer of aluminum is lower than that of brass or copper which hurts performance, so I would seriously consider choosing some different rads.

BAH!, I hate edits.

GRUNTVILLE have a review of the reservoir and they say that "The annodization process serves two purposes, it makes it look good and will prevent any chemical reactions that could lead to corrosion in your cooling system". Since these are made to fit 3/8" tubing, these reservoirs are very restrictive and will increase temps. Because of this, I won't be going with these. But I can see how these "might" cause trouble with your loop (adding harmful material). However, the XSPC radiators seem fine because the water isn't on "direct" contact with the bare aluminum.

GRUNTVILLE is wrong about "The annodization process serves two purposes, it makes it look good and will prevent any chemical reactions that could lead to corrosion in your cooling system". The only type of anodizing that has a chance of delaying the process is hard coat anodizing and it needs to be 100% prefect for it to have a chance, which is rare. Hard coat is also much more expensive than standard ano which most companies feel isn't necessary for their bottom line enhancement.

[Vinas]

Yup, do your homework before you start this or you'll be sorry in the long run. Stay away from mixed metals at all costs. If this is your first WC build then you've got your work cut out for you. Take it slow!!!

[penguins]

check check and check again to make sure parts aren't aluminum, or even cheap steal pieces, i remeber a post not to long ago here or another forum where someone got some bunk res screws that started rusting.if you're not sure i bet waterlogged can tell you if it's got aluminum in it : ).

you're going to want to make sure you're getting brass or copper everything bassically. nickle plated brass or copper, painted anodized brass or copper. that stuff

[blazarcher]

Yup, do your homework before you start this or you'll be sorry in the long run. Stay away from mixed metals at all costs. If this is your first WC build then you've got your work cut out for you. Take it slow!!!

Yeah, I've heard from others that it's not good mixing metals in a single loop. But if you've got Feser One, it should be fine to mix some aluminum with copper??

My CPU Waterblock is Gold plated solid COPPER, the graphics cards will also be COPPER, the radiator is aluminum. The northbridge/southbridge waterblock is COPPER as well... Does that mean I should stick with COPPER throughout? Will the aluminum reservoir cause any problems in the long run? (XSPC)

And lastly what do you think about the triple DDC pumps... I saw a video of them running really LOUD because there were still some air bubbles left. How would I go about undervolting these?

[blazarcher]

I've got a picture of the ALL COPPER Danger Den GTX480 waterblocks...


Now I just hope they come out with a gold plated version to match with my CPU waterblock. In about 2 weeks after the ALL-COPPER version, the Nickel version will come out.

[NaeKuh]

so make an uber expensive waterblock for an uber expensive card.

That all copper block wont be cheap, and a all nickle block will be more.

i think im really gonna wait for the revision on fermi.

[blazarcher]

Even though I told myself that I will stick with a SINGLE loop because of the pressure/flow I can get from the three XSPC tops in one loop. However, one thing that keeps bothering me is the fact that the CPU will be vulnerable to the HEAT of the graphics cards... Would it be better going to 2 Seperate loops??? One for the CPU and the other for the northbridge/southbridge+the graphics cards?

[Proximon]

Just another update, I've decided to ditch the Enermax PSU for the Silverstone Strider 1500W PSU. Not only does it cost 100 dollars more but it has 50% more capacity. NOW this is what I call serious future-proofing. Think I made a good choice? Let me know.

Marketing wins again.

Strider 1500W is capable of 110 amps on the 12V rail(s), the only thing that matters.

Enermax Galaxy Evo 1250 will put out 104 amps.

Antec TPQ-1200 ... rated for 100 amps

Here's a big list of 75+ amp PSUs, ranked and with links to reviews.
http://rankedpsulist.dabbledb.com/pu...sorhigher.html

[blazarcher]

Marketing wins again.

Strider 1500W is capable of 110 amps on the 12V rail(s), the only thing that matters.

Enermax Galaxy Evo 1250 will put out 104 amps.

Antec TPQ-1200 ... rated for 100 amps

Here's a big list of 75+ amp PSUs, ranked and with links to reviews.
http://rankedpsulist.dabbledb.com/pu...sorhigher.html

Thanks for the link. When I buy PSU's I usually focus on their amperage and their build qualilty. The Silverstone wins hands down. Not to mention, it has the wattage for future products.

Now you might say that only amps matter.. But wattage also matters.. This is why I went for the Silverstone.

[Waterlogged]

Yeah, I've heard from others that it's not good mixing metals in a single loop. But if you've got Feser One, it should be fine to mix some aluminum with copper??

My CPU Waterblock is Gold plated solid COPPER, the graphics cards will also be COPPER, the radiator is aluminum. The northbridge/southbridge waterblock is COPPER as well... Does that mean I should stick with COPPER throughout? Will the aluminum reservoir cause any problems in the long run? (XSPC)

And lastly what do you think about the triple DDC pumps... I saw a video of them running really LOUD because there were still some air bubbles left. How would I go about undervolting these?

Have you read this?

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=226632

I'm not saying it's guaranteed to happen but it is a risk you take by using any premix coolant.

As for the XSPC res (or any anodized aluminum for that matter) this,



is also a potential outcome when used in a loop that isn't 100% aluminum.

IMO, triple DDC top is a moronic joke, unless you plan on doing an uber geothermal type loop where you have 100+ feet of tubing/hardline, you don't need that kind of power. If your insistent on multiple pumps, go with 2 DDC 3.25's. They have almost 6 feet more total lift and generate a little over 2PSI more than the 3.2(355).

[blazarcher]

Have you read this?

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=226632

I'm not saying it's guaranteed to happen but it is a risk you take by using any premix coolant.

As for the XSPC res (or any anodized aluminum for that matter) this,



is also a potential outcome when used in a loop that isn't 100% aluminum.

IMO, triple DDC top is a moronic joke, unless you plan on doing an uber geothermal type loop where you have 100+ feet of tubing/hardline, you don't need that kind of power. If your insistent on multiple pumps, go with 2 DDC 3.25's. They have almost 6 feet more total lift and generate a little over 2PSI more than the 3.2(355).

My god, that is disgusting! I'm planning on using Feser One so this might be an issue. What should I do? Go with the Clear version or just use regular distilled water with some sort of additives?

I understand that Triple DDC might seem like a joke to some but I'm seriously considering undervolting these to about 10.5V. Dunno how I'd go about doing that but it should definitely be quieter than two 3.25's running at 12V.

I'm also a bit confused about the whole aluminum vs copper argument. Are you saying that I SHOULD go with ALL aluminum or just all COPPER? Basically I should stick with one or the other.

[RCG_Bex]

All copper - aluminum isn't as good - DO NOT MIX

I wouldn't bother yer backside with Feser, Potential to crack acrylic, heavily clog your blocks and is just nasty end of.

If you want colour, get coloured hosing and using distilled water and a silver kill koil. I've got PC Pure clear running in my rig atm until I can be bothered changing... EC6 clear is also very good.

~Bex

[blazarcher]

All copper - aluminum isn't as good - DO NOT MIX

I wouldn't bother yer backside with Feser, Potential to crack acrylic, heavily clog your blocks and is just nasty end of.

If you want colour, get coloured hosing and using distilled water and a silver kill koil. I've got PC Pure clear running in my rig atm until I can be bothered changing... EC6 clear is also very good.

~Bex

I really don't care if it has color or not lol if you haven't noticed I'm using black tubing... I'm ok with clear but I chose Feser One mainly because it offers better cooling than regular distilled water.

And if I do go with distilled water, wouldn't I need to add some sort of additives like HydroX or whatever it's called?

[Waterlogged]

My god, that is disgusting! I'm planning on using Feser One so this might be an issue. What should I do? Go with the Clear version or just use regular distilled water with some sort of additives?

I would go with distilled and PTNuke and/or Killcoil. There really is no guarantee that the colored Fester fluid won't gunk up the loop, and temps are likely to be a few degrees worse anyway. Every test I've seen comparing temps of Fester's fluid to other common coolants, the reviewer adds crap like water wetter to the distilled water to worsen it's performance and make the Fester stuff look better, even then, it usually comes out a draw.

I understand that Triple DDC might seem like a joke to some but I'm seriously considering undervolting these to about 10.5V. Dunno how I'd go about doing that but it should definitely be quieter than two 3.25's running at 12V.

There is very little difference between all the DDC models in the term of actual noise. The biggest change, which also isn't much, is the pitch of the different models. I re-visited your OP and honestly, I think 1 DDC 3.25 would be fine with your proposed loop.

I'm also a bit confused about the whole aluminum vs copper argument. Are you saying that I SHOULD go with ALL aluminum or just all COPPER? Basically I should stick with one or the other.

If your dead set on using a part that is aluminum (such as the XSPC res), then your better off going with an all aluminum setup...blocks, rad, res, fittings, etc., just be aware that your temps are really going to suffer. How do I know?...first hand experience. I built this system a while ago as an experiment and was very disappointed with the results (so disappointed, it only lasted about 3 months before I switched it over to a real loop). I had set the temp warning in BIOS to 65°C and it would routinely go off while at Youtube watching videos. There was no OC on the CPU either. In short, your better off avoiding aluminum all together.

Copper, brass, nickel plate, gold all work well together and will give much better temps. It's also easier to find all the parts you'll need made of these materials as well.

Here's some other things I would change from your OP as well. Forget about the teflon tape, it's not meant to work with the thread style the fittings we use have. The Sunbeam pin extractor kit is junk, I have one and don't use it. This is the best ATX pin extractor tool but it's a bit pricey. This is also a very good ATX pin extractor and is a bit more reasonably priced. It can also easily be used on floppy and 3 pin connectors as well, unlike the first one. I have both and use which ever one is closest at the time. For the 4 pin molex, I use one similar to this one though mine is from FrozenCPU.