Glad the Germans were able to help once again (Bosch).
Good luck.
Glad the Germans were able to help once again (Bosch).
Good luck.
Thanks, Wezly.
Arrggghhh ... a tough day in South Florida. Practiced my jigsaw skills - trying to see if I can cut a decent corner. As you can see from this pic, I'm not doing too well. Will try again tomorrow. Have tried 18TPI and 24TPI blades, with various saw settings. No blood, so I guess that is the good news. And yes, I know water jet is the way to go, just trying to do it myself
At least there was a nice sunset...
cutting anything with a jigsaw and going for perfection is...well a noble goal...unattainable but noble. just cut shallow file to depth. lotta work...and yes water jet IS the way to go :P
since my tax return was smaller then hoped for and i've been sick the last couple weeks (my paycheck that supposed to be covering all my bills henceforth: 67$ or 1 day of work...it's gonna be slim pickings for a while...then by the time i get caught up it'll be that time when you're buying everything in sight for the new kid...i'm afraid it's gonna be a long time coming before i can start my next build...meh maybe they'll be nice and release the bulldozer series of processors by then :P anyways...
STOP SENDING PICKS OF FLORIDA YOU'RE MAKING ME MISS IT EVEN MORE!!! (from florida living in nebraska...i'm paying for any past/present/future sins) (jk post as many pics of fl u want <--from the bay/washington county area)
Your rounded cuts using a jig is WAY better looking than mine, Sharon. We're talking light years. Been brainstorming on ways to make rounded corners using a drill and router combo. We'll see how that turns out. We could send it off to have it water jetted, right?
But I fail to see the fun in that? heh
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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That's the best wayOriginally Posted by shazza
I know water jet is the way to go, just trying to do it myselfWill be doing it the same way myself too
. Already got my jigsaw ready waiting for a better blade... and dremel... and drilll... and files
Specs:
HW: Lian Li PC-A71F | i7 920 | P6T Deluxe | HD5870 | 6GB OCZ Platinum 2000mhz | AX850W | Asus Xonar D2X 7.1 | Intel X25-M 80GB SSD | WD 2TB Caviar Green
WC: EK-FC5870 | EK Supreme HF | Swiftech MCP655 with EK top | ThermoChill PA120.2 | ThermoChill PA120.3 | EK Multioption 250
Other: Scythe Gentle Typhoon fans | Aqua Computer Aquaero | Bitspower Comp. Fittings
Not a problem shazza.. . .the deed is done, it'll be here likely Tues/Wed.
Circles SucQ!
If your annoyed by sigs telling you to put things in your sig, then put this in your sig
Bribery won't work on me...just say NO to AT!!!
You will figure the best way to do it shazza , i'm sure of it
Also would like to inform that you that my system is back up
-to big to say it all- i can only use up to 4 lines
you should make a jig, something like a piece of string(something stronger maybe) and an anchor point to get the perfect curve
My appologies for popping in here Shazza, I've been a long time lurker of your work. Fellow Floridian here as well.
I'll echo 4GOTTEN. I've cut a lot of aluminum, and 99% of the magic is done with a solid set of files. To put it in perspective, I have twice the money invested in files as I do the jigsaw, and they are by far the better productivity investment.
Another method for you, a bit less complex than a router jig, and using techniques you are familiar with: Cut your corners with a hole saw, and then use a jigsaw to connect the outer edge of the "dots". Again, this will take a fair bit of filing to finish, and you'll want a modest collection of half round files to finish the curve-to-straight transitions cleanly, but its one method I have used a number of times with success.
Another critical tip if you haven't already discovered it or it hasn't already been mentioned: Use a cutting lubricant. It will make a bit of mess, but your workpiece and your tools will thank you for it. It also makes the actual process of cutting much smoother for the operator. They make application-specific fluids and/or waxes you can buy, but even a drop or two of 3-in-1 on your blade before you make a cut will have a noticeable impact.
G'luck, and thanks for sharing.
Thx, 4GOTTEN. Even if you can't build your system right away, you can still participate in the forum, so that's not all bad. And, having a new baby on the way has to be very exciting - congrats!
LOL ... I don't know if I can do it or not, but gonna practice some more.
Can't wait to see how you go.That's the best way
Good deal - I think the little hole near the top middle might be a key, but I haven't figured it out. I'm going to laugh when you get it apart in 3 minutes - but will be glad!Not a problem shazza.
Glad you're back up and running, wardYou will figure the best way to do it shazza , i'm sure of it
Also would like to inform that you that my system is back up
Hmmnn ... I know there is an attachment to do circles, just not sure the arc is small enough. My problem is not so much following the lines, just making the tighter turns, if that makes sense.you should make a jig, something like a piece of string(something stronger maybe
If this were meant to be a showpiece PC, I'd go to a water jet and call it a day. But, the objective is to learn how to do new things - I'll figure out something. I've googled "Cutting rounded corners in metal with a Jigsaw" and multiple permutations for hours
looking great!
i like carrots
My appologies for popping in here Shazza, I've been a long time lurker of your work. Fellow Floridian here as well.
I'm glad you dropped by, Warfarin88! I appreciate the tips.
I'll echo 4GOTTEN. I've cut a lot of aluminum, and 99% of the magic is done with a solid set of files. To put it in perspective, I have twice the money invested in files as I do the jigsaw, and they are by far the better productivity investment.
I hear ya - I know I'll have to file. I guess I am just trying to get as smooth a cut as I can, because I don't want to use edge molding and I'm a bit worried about my ability to file everything smooth. But - in one of my practice cuts, I was able to cut within the arc of my corner - which I thought might work, if I can do a good job filing out to the edge - filing practice coming up!
Another method for you, a bit less complex than a router jig, and using techniques you are familiar with: Cut your corners with a hole saw, and then use a jigsaw to connect the outer edge of the "dots". Again, this will take a fair bit of filing to finish, and you'll want a modest collection of half round files to finish the curve-to-straight transitions cleanly, but its one method I have used a number of times with success.
That's the method my husband suggests - I was just worried about getting the saw started close enough to the outer edge of the hole, but I can see where that might be a good method for me to try. (Filing, I know
Another critical tip if you haven't already discovered it or it hasn't already been mentioned: Use a cutting lubricant. It will make a bit of mess, but your workpiece and your tools will thank you for it. It also makes the actual process of cutting much smoother for the operator. They make application-specific fluids and/or waxes you can buy, but even a drop or two of 3-in-1 on your blade before you make a cut will have a noticeable impact.
Yep, I've got some lube - admittedly I didn't use it on my practice cuts, but I'll give it a try today.
G'luck, and thanks for sharing.
Thank YOU for sharing your tips!
Do you have access to tools to do this?
Otherwise jigsaw + filing should be the way to go. Stock up on elbow grease!
Myself I'm not comfortable with anything beyond drills/dremels/nibblers, so I'm hoping to learn a lot from your progress and success here (I consider water/laserjet a last resort...I have this irrational idea that a project loses some of that magic handmade essence as soon as it goes under the CNC...)
just make sure you cut in the right direction...
j/k <3 looking forward to more!
Ha - I was waiting for someone to comment on my directional skills
I hear you on sending it out for cutting. Absolutely no disrespect to those who do, it's just that this is a hobby for me, and I'm under no time pressures to finish.
Yes, HE does have a router. I've just asked Lou to take a look at Cyber's guide (you should have seen the look I got when I asked if he had a router). I saw that guide when I first started looking, but thought it was beyond me - one more power tool to mess up, ya know. But now that I see what I can/can't accomplish with the saw, it may be the best way for me to get the smooth edge I'm going for.
Thanks for reminding me about that link! Really appreciate all the help you guys are giving me. Now where is Graeme when I need him - I know he'll have some good tips as well.
Last edited by shazza; 02-08-2010 at 07:41 AM.
Those cuts you have there look great to me. Smooth round corners and no wavy lines as the jigsaw wanders about lol.
It would be nice to have the money to have parts cut by water jet or to have someplace that does that nearby, but don't think you can beat the satisfaction of knowing that you've made something with your own hands. Great work there and look forward to seeing more.
Appreciate the comments, Red-5 and p0Pe.
More practice today. Spent lots of time researching CyberDruid's method - seriously considering it. BUT, it's all based on getting a good template/jig - and just don't know if I can do that. Also have to learn the router - not sure I'm up to adding another potential killer to my arsenal.
Did more corner practice, but these shots show my attempt to cut two rounded corners by first drilling a hole, and connecting the outside. Setup/measurement was casual, and the cutout has not been filed - I soon realized I did not have the right size file after a few swipes. To clarify - the cut I'm talking about is the rectangular cutout on the bottom - not the mangled ones on the top left.
I call this one First Blood
My new logo:
It was dark outside by the time I took the shots, and the patio lighting is not good. I'm sure the neighbors are enjoying my drilling and cutting practice sessions!
I'm now confident I can cut a decent opening for something like a radiator grill, or perhaps the window if the panel was to be painted. Still doubt I can achieve a clean cut all the way around, but will be practicing my filing.
Last edited by shazza; 02-08-2010 at 05:29 PM.
Vroom vroom.
Project:
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Amazing stuff here, this is one of my favorite builds around. I have been following this thread from the start, although i have not been an active user, and only joined this forum a while ago. Past that i have just been drooling over build logs as a guest for quite some time now.
Wee bit off topic; what camera are you using? Pics are amazing, clear and bright. Are you just using natural lighting?
Stunning shazza!
Project:
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Yep - I originally considered investing in a Rotozip, but given my experience with the dremel, I wasn't sure it was a wise move. Also ... as I recall you had some difficulty with the RZ at first - did you ever get it mastered? (That's not a shot - am seriously interested, since Charles also swears by the RZ).
Welcome to XS, vistageek. And, thanks for dropping in. I really appreciate it, since I often assume my baby steps are boring folks to death.
As for the camera - most of the shots in here are with the Canon 5D Mark II. All of the shots from the last couple of weeks are with natural light - except the last two where the sun had set, and all I had were patio overhead lights. I use a tripod religiously (always). I shoot in RAW, process lightly in Lightroom (except for silly ones like my new logo, where I go a bit overboard). Photography is still new to me, but it's a hobby that fits nicely with PC building.
vistageek your build has inspired me to atleast start sleeving my cables...once i get my tax return in...eventually...(last time i direct deposited my taxes...well i still haven't gotten the return!!! (from 2 years ago) so hopefully i'll get this years in a few days... finished my taxes got them accepted etc etc. about a week and a half ago...was supposed to get return yesterday...supposed to. but they've never been on time. so we'll see...
i practiced removing the molex connectors with my thumbnail...it worked pretty well...until it broke...then i tried doing it with a paper clip...it was 2 fat...same with screwdriver...so besides from filing down all the paperclips i can find what's the fastest/best way to get the cables free...
So for this week I'm either gonna be super busy this week making up for time i've not been at work(working from 8am to 9pm plus my extra strong does of fatigue from fighting this crap)...or if my doctor gets his way i'll be at home all week (got mono appearantly i'm still super extremely contagous...)...(BS) so if that's the case i'll take some before pics and post them, and wait for the sleeves/paint...unfortunately after that i'm expecting a long long gap in my build...so more time to watch everyone elses :P
EDIT: ...what i meant to post the first time before the long story... like the logo ^^
I love the RZ, but I can't say that I've used it for making cuts like you're trying to do.
It does have a circle cutter attachment, though, that'll cut anywhere from 1" - 20" diameter circles. So you could probably use it for some nice 45 degree cuts. To me, this seems like a more optimal solution than a jig.
http://www.thefind.com/hardware/browse-rotozip-circle
Just be forewarned that it has some kick to it. Not saying that you can't handle it as I know that you have some skill, but it can get away from you easily if not anchored by something. And it helps to pick up an aftermarket carbide cutting bit as the ones that come with it aren't that great. The one that I use looks like a drill bit, but it's shorter and has sharper cutting edges:
On Youtube there's a lot of DIY circle cutter tutorials:
http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...rch_type=&aq=f
Last edited by Xion X2; 02-08-2010 at 06:12 PM.
Project:
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Hay Shazza I could hear you calling out.
I have sent you a PM, this is just the middle bit of the story.
To cut tight circles with your jigsaw you will need a blade that is narrow (not thin as in width) but as in from the tip of the tooth to the back edge,
as if you where measuring it lying flat on your work bench.
A narrow blade will cut a tight curve easier and faster than one that is bigger as the back edge will hit the outer edge of the material as it goes around the corner.
As you are cutting thing aluminium you need a blade that has smaller teeth but not to small that they clog up.
When cutting out anything you will find, on one side of the line will be waste and on the other side will be the piece you wish to keep.
You will not be able to cut a tight radius (circle) with one fast smooth cut using a jigsaw, as the blade will get stuck as you start to turn.
Have the mind set that you can cut into the waste as often as you need to, with out going over the line, if you cut over the line you damage
the piece you intend to keep and this will stuff up the whole job.
However as the waste is just scrap, you can cut into that with no consequence to the piece you intend to keep.
With that in mind you also need to understand you don't need to keep a constant speed with a jigsaw.
When you get to the start of the curve, slow down to the point that you nearly stop, slowly turn the jigsaw into the curve as you move around the bend so the blade follows the line.
If you feel that the blade is starting to grab, pull back a bit, say 1/4" and then start to cut some more but this time, not on the line but into the waste.
Remember the waste piece is just scrape that you will throw out anyway, so it doesn't matter what it looks like when you finish as long as you don't cross that line.
You may need to pull the blade back more that ¼” from where you have just cut.
This will give the blade a bigger gap between the waste and the line, which will let the blade turn without grabbing.
Then just start cutting again along the line, you may need to do this two or three times to get around the corner.
Take your time, move slowly and you will find that you can cut just about any shape out with a jigsaw as long as there is waste to sacrifice.
I love your new logo too.
Last edited by kgtiger; 02-09-2010 at 06:22 AM. Reason: Saw the new logo!
Thanks for more info on the Rotozip, Xion. It looks like a good tool to have - but I'll be looking at divorce Florida style if I bring any more stuff into the house right now.
Graeme - thank you so much for your detailed explanation. Lou keeps telling me I need a scrolling blade - I can' seem to readily find one for cutting aluminum. (and, I didn't understand the part about being smaller from front to back, as opposed to being thinner - duh, yeah, I am such a novice). I think my best attack strategy is to drill out four holes in the corner and connect them. Just have to get the drill press setup, because that's the best way for me to get the holes right.
Again - thanks all. I know I'm not building parts for the space shuttle here, but it's important that I learn to do it right. I have some ideas for future builds that will incorporate my learnings with this build.
I think I know what KG means, and he's absolutely right. He's talking about the width of the sides of the jig blades.
What I'm calling the "side" is what has the brand name and TPI rating on it (not the thickness of the blade.) So, some jig blades have sides that are this size:
|--|
Others, this size:
|-|
To illustrate, it would be a blade the width of the first from the top in this photo or the second one up from the bottom:
See how much thinner they are? The thinner sides will allow you to make radial cuts better since the back end of the blade won't be bumping into the excess metal outside your cutting area as much. Think of it like trying to make a U-turn in a school bus as compared to a Volkswagen Beetle. Sort of the same principle.
Last edited by Xion X2; 02-09-2010 at 10:36 AM.
Project:
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Ok let me try to give you a better understanding of what I mean.
As you are cutting a straight line, it's the teeth at the front of the blade that are doing all the cutting work.
The width of the teeth determines the how much material is cut out, and allows the rest of the blade to move between the now separated pieces.
I used the word "narrow" I now see I should have called it the depth of the blade.
If I was to cut a tight radius with a blade that had a depth of 1" and a "thickness of say, 1/16" like a standard ruler.
As I turn the jigsaw to follow around the line of the tight radius, the back of the 1" blade will rub up against the edge.
This will limit how much I can turn the blade before it jams and starts to bounce around.
Now if I was to change the blade to one that had a "depth" of 1/4" and kept the "thickness to, 1/16" as the depth is narrower the turning circle will be smaller giving me tighter radius
as the angle it can now turn inside the 1/16" cut is greater.
It's a bit like how a big truck needs the whole road to turn a sharp corner and a small car can turn easily in it's own lane.
Does this make any sense to anyone?
Just use the blades you have got Shazza, as you go around the corner, if the blade starts to grab or bounce around, just go back a bit and cut some of the waste out to give the blade a bigger gap to turn in.
You may well need to do this 3-4 times on your way around and you may end up with a 3/16" gap around the inside of the corner, it's only waste, no biggy.
The thing is to take your time, go slow, the more you can remove with the jigsaw the less you will have to file down later and to me thats a good thing as filing sux, it's just one up from sanding.
As for scroll saw blades, he is on the right track as yes the depth of the blades are really narrow and can cut really really sharp angles, however there either a hand tool or a bench scroll saw, different tool.
You could alway take his advice if you want and get a new toy to play with.
Time for bed anyhow as it is 3.17 am.
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