If it was me then I guess my job would be wiping the drool off my chin while I am pushing the trolly around
As for the perspex, I find it easier to cut thicker perspex, like 4-4.5mm up as thin stuff below 3mm can chip easy.
I am guessing you are going to use Solvent cement to join the perspex together, having sheets a little bit thicker is also easier to help keep them square and straight,
plus there is less bowing and saging with thicker perspex.
I think 4.75mm perspex is a good place to start, you might need thicker for the bottom of the case as if it is going to sit flush on the floor/table, without feet/legs.
Then you will need to counter sink all the screws in the bottom of the case thats holding the motherboard/pump on so they are flush and don't stick out and scratch the floor or table.
Having thicker perspex means you have more meat to work with when counter sinking, you don't want the screws pulling through or cracking the perspex because its to thin.
Also if the bottom is thin it will flex when you move it, this will in time make it crack around the screws as they are applying pressure agenst the perspex.
This flexing will also give the impression the case is unstable and of cheep quality.
The torture rack for example is all 10mm/3/8 thick.
I would also suggest using atleast 6mm to suport the PSU as it is hanging over your motherboard.
Something like a L shape that is Solvent cemented to the side wall and the top to make a strong and ridged box within a box, remember that PSU is not really that lite.
I only commented on this as you stated bellow your drawing that you where going to, "Using 3/16” thickness acrylic for all walls"
So what do you do for a job?
Looking forward to your next update.

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