Quote Originally Posted by yngndrw View Post
Hey, I'm just wondering what is the black bottle in this image:
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...rk-7-23-09.jpg

As well as what pressure testing setup will you be using ?
That's a 9oz C02 paintball bottle/tank. Thought I needed it to block that port, but have realized that I do not if I open both red-handle ball valves 100% and just tweak the C02 with the main valve.

I will be using N2, but still waiting on the reg. Filed a dispute with paypal earlier today.

Quote Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337 View Post
Those joints don't look proper at the HX.
You need to make sure the steels clean, the flux is applied heavily enough, and the copper and steel are both hot enough. Looks like you melted the rods on.
Quote Originally Posted by [XC] gomeler View Post
^^ Yup. HX joints don't look correct.
I agree that it doesn't look correct on the outside. It looks like a cold braze. Not being argumentative here, so please don't take it that way. This is just FYI. I seem to be a bit of a "Blobber". I add more than is absolutely necessary. I like the joints to look what? "Full and complete"? I don't know exactly how to say it. The fittings where definitely hot and I think the "inside" of the joints are pretty good actually, but I did start running into problems later as I was trying to "form" the "cap". However, after 10.5 housr it does appear that I've lost 1 inch of vacuum. So, I have to assume it's a leak in the AC fittings. First guess--the HX.

Also, I cleaned those HX joints up with a wire brush and a couple of needle files, so I could get a better look at them. But, Yes, we all agree that they don't look right. Guess I'll break out the mapp/oxy.



Quote Originally Posted by ultralo1 View Post
On your HX joints, you did heat the fittings and then apply the braze, you did just get the brazing liquid and put it on there.

I dosent look like you had the fittings hot enough. They should be a dull to bright cherry red before you put the braze rod to them. The fittings should be hot enough to melt the braze, it should not be the flame that melts it.

When pressure testing with vaccum you only are using 14.7psi to test with. Vaccum testing should not take the place of pressure testing.

You also need a micron gauge to do the vacuum correctly. Not a must have but pretty close IMO.

Looks pretty good so far.

I did not know that you went to the chiller section, I dont usually cruise the wet side.

As above, I think the fittings were hot enough during the initial braze, but the HX was sucking the heat while I was trying to "form the cap".

I'm still waiting on my N2 reg to arrive. Without it--I can't pressure test. So, that's the only reason that I am doing a vacuum test--trying to make progress with what I have atm. If I could currently pressure test--I would. It would help me pin-point a leak. But I can't, so vacuuming was an option. Yes, I will be pressure testing.

Yes, I understand the value of pressure testing v. pulling a vacuum. And I would definitely like to have a supco vg64, but they are ~$200. I was hoping to get past this project before investing--considering all the other money that I've already spent. But I may go ahead and pick one up. We'll see..... Right now, it looks like I need to purchase another N2 reg....



I'll work on those 2 joints and see if I can't improve them...... Thanx Everybody!