Lapping the Heatkiller 3.0 [Top tip: DON'T DO IT!]

[Ozzfest05]

everytime I lapped anything I lap for 10 minutes while watching tv and take a break as your hand cramps up then I go at it again I lapped my TRUE over the course of 3 days so when I lap something I lap it good

[fgw]

as somebody already asked:

what about the ihs?

if the ihs itself is not completely flat it might have been in better contact with the unlapped block before lapping.

if the block was convex before lapping and the ihs is concave this might have resulted in perfect contact. now lapping the block completely flat and putting it on the still concave ihs might lead to a bad contact in the center of the ihs, just at the die area!

check the ihs and report back...

[Jor3lBR]

Don't mess with German craftsmanship it's already perfect!

Jks aside too bad I would try to re-lap it using the 15min each direction in straight angle rule and start with lower grid.

Another important thing you didn't mention: Is the cpu lapped?

[Martinm210]

Yeah, this same thing will happen with the Fuzion blocks if you try to lap them assembled.

If you want to lap them you always need to take them apart first and lap with the base all by itself.

The bowing doesn't show until they are assembled, but at least this confirms the base is actually bowed slightly..

[Kashelz]

everytime I lapped anything I lap for 10 minutes while watching tv and take a break as your hand cramps up then I go at it again I lapped my TRUE over the course of 3 days so when I lap something I lap it good

Damn, you can not lap things so long time, you will take off to much of water block material, after all it can all ended up with damaged block base after all
I dont know about base thinness of HK 3.0, but Enzotech-LUNA base is only 1mm, after all I think HK ir even more thinner, maybe 0.5 to 0.7mm as it performs really great!



So too much long laping will damage block after all, thats my opinion, and no need to lap more as the base is flat pretty soon when laping with correct type of sandpaper

[BiNGE]

I've polished the base without any adverse effect and it took the machine marks out, but these findings are correct the bottom is bowed slightly.

[zlojack]

I put this block on a glass table the day I got it. I could have told you it has a very slight bow without having to lap it to find out

That said, it has much less of a bow than the Supreme.

Have you tested your newly flat HK on a lapped CPU?

[Nickel020]

The bow is very slight though, definitely smaller than on the EK Supreme and EK Supreme LT. Can't talk about the Fuzion V2 because that's currently in use

[NaeKuh]

HES if your gonna relap it after you pulled the base off, start with 200 grit -> 800 grit.

Use 200 grit sp until you notice your sanding the entire base. Then use 400 -> 600 -> 800. You can go 1000 if you want.

But start at 200.

HES i was told not to jump sand paper when lapping. By jumping sand paper, you create uneven surfaces, so go 200 -> 400 -> 600 -> 800

[zlojack]

One concern I'd have with relapping now is the thickness of that base. Does anyone know how thick it actually is?

[Apollo4g]

Is your CPU lapped? what is it @?

[Serpentarius]

get a drill .. with sanding heat bit

get the wool cover, with polishing compound

it's cut the works to 2 mins tops and you're done

[BDW88]

Damn and I was going to lap my HK 3.0 CU got the sandpaper and everything...

Is your cpu lapped btw?

[HESmelaugh]

Yes my CPU is lapped.

Thanks for the feedback and tips, everyone. I'll give lapping it diassembled a go and see what happens.

[generics_user]

screw that base, get a new one dirctly from watercool in germany and cut the old one in 2 pieces so we know how deep those channels are

[HESmelaugh]

screw that base, get a new one dirctly from watercool in germany and cut the old one in 2 pieces so we know how deep those channels are

That's another nice idea. Though I've already messed with the base and I guess one of these measuring caliper thingies would do the job of telling the channel-depth less destructively.

[scamps]

...
- Shane is willing to wreck his stuff in the name of science...
...

What have you done to the nice cooler

[oRIDDLERo]

Dude, I commend your effort non the less. Now that you've gone this far. Try removing the base, lapping again, reassemble and see if the bow performance comes back. Would be interesting to see if the distortion comes back after removing the base.

Or, you could just forget I ever mentioned this if it's to painful.

andyc

I am very curious if this works as well! I wonder if they manufactured the bottom plate to bow or if it was flat to start then deformed after mounting (intentionally or unintentionally).

I guess you could tell right away when you remove the plate and begin lapping if it is the mound that deforms the plate you would have a reverse pattern from what was seen in post 1 of this thread.

[davidm71]

I was reading of the benefits of lapping so I like an idiot lapped the Heatkiller 3.0! Its pretty smooth and flat now. No damage that I can detect. I did a mock TIM spreading and I can say that it spreads pretty evenly for a block that use to have a slight raise the size of a quarter. Personally I don't think it will amount to a hill of beans in temp savings or not. Its all how you apply your tim anyhow. I guess I'm old school in that I would like as much as flat contact against the cpu. I didn't see that happening before...

[HESmelaugh]

Well, it looks like the second part of this thread was eaten by the downtime-goblin...

I relapped the base of the HK after removing it from the top. That way, when you attach the lapped base back to the top, it bows again and you basically get exactly what you started out with. Same bow, same temps, etc.

So if disassembled the block before lapping, it didn't hurt your temps.

[DemonEyez]

I just got myself a HK 3.0 ( did not lap it). Now this is what it looks like with TIM on it:



Pressure is max, according to the info in booklet it's around 250N

From the looks of it the TIM does make very good contact in the middle but not around the edges.
Do I need to lap the IHS of my Q9650? my hunch says yes. I get the feeling the TIM has to be much more equal distributed over the CPU block for optimal contact and performance

[eRazorzEDGE]

i would try lapping the CPU, if you don't plan on warrantying it, that is. it'd be interesting to see the TIM imprint after wards.

[defect9]

it looks fine. you want the best pressure in the middle anyway, since that's where the cores are, and where the heat is generated first. by lapping it and the CPU you run the risk of making it so that the edges have the best pressure, and the middle doesnt get what it needs for pressure.

this thread already stated that lapping the HK and the CPU will give you NO IMPROVEMENTS. so... don't worry about that 1c you might get. You're better off adding more fans in push-pull, or more powerful fans, over lapping.

[gOtVoltage]

Well ,,
From the look of the STOCK HKBase," it puts preshure in a line". Arnt Intel Cores lower and this preshure is now above the cores instead of in the middle? If so i guesse the line is designed to run only One way for Intel correct. So Then you have the Phenoms they need a Nickel or Quarter size CIRCLE of preshure in the middle.

HK is designed to put preshure where the Intel chips need it. Make shure that you Install the Block so this patch/line runs across all your cores for Intels. If its mounted Pacth going opisite of cores , you may see higher temps because two cores wont get cooled as much. You can clearly see that. Phenom/PhenomII Die is Dead center not a line down the center or lower.

I wonder if it can be modded to apply a better circle contact patern instead of a line. This W/b is designed for Intel but they also sell it for PhenomII. Im tempted to get one but am afraid it wont give me the correct contact patch im looking for.

Note:
If you look at the Base "bolt pattern" it explains why it leaves a line insted of a circle.
Two short width sides =2x screw at each end, Thus less force than the long sides x3 screw.
I woulda made the block with 8 or 4 bolts for the Base instead of 6. This would make a perfect circle .

Beside that ,
Thermal paste,,how much and why

Even with a UNLAPPED W/B Hes using too much paste. about 75% is sqeezed where its not needed.

Once its lapped(OP) you will use a lot less . Actually Half or even "less than" half the Amount you would normally use.

A lot of people still use a Grain size dot. That is actually too much with these ne W/B's and better IHS's . Even a half grain dot can be too much depending on surface of W/B alone .

I usually use half a half dot ,,then spread to a almost see through haze method. MXII, AS5 NT1 and that G stuff will all use half the normal amount or less.

I did experiments a while back when the V1/V2 came out . I took the Bow out to use on Stock IHS . It actually performed the same or better and well with a lot less paste. The best gains were with the W/B and IHS lapped .


Experiments come in handy ,, Try this method before you alter the W/B back to a bow. You might find it interesting.


1st
Put on amount of Paste youd normally use,,

2nd
place and mount W/B.

3rd
Remove and wipe off W/B only not IHS.

4th
Do not wipe the IHS,,Respread the paste thats left on IHS.
(plasti wrap finger) works well for this or glove.

5th
I do the above two times back to back . The C's should drop each time.

If the temp goes up , instead of down ,,you only need to perform method #3ONCE.

I origanally used the drop meathod for about 10years , the drop and Squish method with w/b. Ive since found this to be Too much on a lapped surface while using the New paste over last few years.

Some paste will react better than others on a smoother surface. Even though the IHS is stock and rough. The W/B still has twice as fine and prabally 4x as many Micro pores from lapping .It will only use half the amount to do the same job. Thus when you apply the normal amount it just gets turned into a insulation and sqeezed out the side.

A sloppy or well applied paste makes or breaks a great Lap Job

The Heatkiller is growing on me .Its a bit bulky and Bolts coulda been resessed more or use of shorter head. Overall nice rugged type block it seems.

Well im Old school ,,
what my little V1 gets me with lapped base(stock IHS 720BE).
Just a quik little run. My CPUvid 1.55and NBvid is 1.45v @1.56vcore here




I dont know the best method , but i do know this does work with any W/B regardless of it Being lapped.

gOtVolTage

[DemonEyez]

Well ,,
From the look of the STOCK HKBase," it puts preshure in a line". Arnt Intel Cores lower and this preshure is now above the cores instead of in the middle? If so i guesse the line is designed to run only One way for Intel correct. So Then you have the Phenoms they need a Nickel or Quarter size CIRCLE of preshure in the middle.

HK is designed to put preshure where the Intel chips need it. Make shure that you Install the Block so this patch/line runs across all your cores for Intels. If its mounted Pacth going opisite of cores , you may see higher temps because two cores wont get cooled as much. You can clearly see that. Phenom/PhenomII Die is Dead center not a line down the center or lower.

...
gOtVolTage

That's what I was thinking also. The cores of a quad are just below and above the horizontal line, I get the idea that the outer area's are getting to little pressure from the looks of it, and the two outer cores are running warmer, this seems to be the case because two cores run like 10 to 12 degrees hotter than the other two. With my former D-Tek Fuzion rev1 block the differences were more like 5 degrees.

The placement of the block is correct i think. Also when i look at these pictures:




The quadcore manifold is vertical. If I were to turn the block 90 degrees, so that the pressure line becomes vertical,then it would indeed put the most pressure on the the cores.
But then the quadcore nozzle would become horizontal and you don't have the water injected above each core-package, which will result in higher temps.

I'll try you method of applying the TIM. Sounds you know what you're talking about. I agree that it looks i've used too much TIM