Subscribed, very nice![]()
Subscribed, very nice![]()
Xtreme SUPERCOMPUTER
Nov 1 - Nov 8 Join Now!
Athlon64 3700+ KACAE 0605APAW @ 3455MHz 314x11 1.92v/Vapochill || Core 2 Duo E8500 Q807 @ 6060MHz 638x9.5 1.95v LN2 @ -120'c || Athlon64 FX-55 CABCE 0516WPMW @ 3916MHz 261x15 1.802v/LN2 @ -40c || DFI LP UT CFX3200-DR || DFI LP UT NF4 SLI-DR || DFI LP UT NF4 Ultra D || Sapphire X1950XT || 2x256MB Kingston HyperX BH-5 @ 290MHz 2-2-2-5 3.94v || 2x256MB G.Skill TCCD @ 350MHz 3-4-4-8 3.1v || 2x256MB Kingston HyperX BH-5 @ 294MHz 2-2-2-5 3.94v
You want a 3-/4-pin remover tool, it looks something like this:
I have that Sunbeam model, I don't know who else makes them or how they compare. But I'm sure there's better out there.
The spot you're looking for is the "holes" in the connector on the side, not the "top" as you pictured.
You don't necessarily need that specific tool though. Pretty much anything you can fit inside those holes to press the little "release" will work just fine.
I hope that helps, sorry if I wasn't more clear!
Inside my murderMod TJ07:
XFX 780i - Q6600 @ 3.2GHz - TRUE Black - 4x2GB Mushkin Athlon XP 1066MHz DDR2
MSI GTX 260 Core 216 OCv3 896MB - Silverstone Decathlon DA800
Seagate 7200.11 500GB in RAID 0 (OS) - Seagate 7200.11 1TB (Storage/Backup) - Stealthed Pioneer DVD-RW
tried that (I have the sunbeam tool) thats a female fan header, not the male, the tool you pictured is for male fan headers
Current System:
eVGA 680i SLi "A2" P30 BIOS
intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 (currently at stock)
OCZ ReaperX 4GB DDR2 1000 (running at DDR2 800 Speeds with cas4)
320GB Seagate 7200.10
XFX 8800GT XXX 512MB (stock clocks)
auzentech X-Fi Prelude
PC Power and Cooling Silencer 750 Quad Copper
Win XP Pro
Dangals, huge thanks for your guide! The staples method is perfect for anybody, who hasn't special tools. I used double staples, because single don't push the pin holders properly.
I sleeved my 24pin ATX in 3 days and felt free when it was done
Guys, why don't you make extensions for cables instead of sleeving PSU cables? They can be used if you want to change the PSU and doesn't void the warranty.
Umm... I think I'm missing the white (-5V) cable. Is this normal?
Doesn't look that there is one here:
http://www.techaddicts.net/reviews/hx620/hx620.html
Last edited by Zehnsucht; 04-25-2009 at 03:20 AM.
I Are DuneCat
I Controls The Spice
I Controls The Universe
Cooler Master ATCS 840 | Corsair HX 520W | Asus P5Q Pro | Q9550 | HD4870 | Corsair Dominator 4GB PC8500 |
D-Tek FuZion v2 - EK RES 150 - Swiftech MCR-220/320 - Swiftech MCW-60 - DDC 3.2 + Petra's Top
It's not meant to be there, on newer PSU's (including mine) it's not thereI don't know why, but it works without it
![]()
yep, I don't have white cable too
Toughpower 850
yeah you dont need it.... I think its white because its always empty because I have never seen a PSU with a white wire....
all wires of identical color are the same function and can be mixed and matched.
anyone else with any input on pin removal of fan extension cables? (fan controllers/ 3 pin->molex adapters) nothing I've gotten my hands on so far has worked (sunbeam kit, 0.7mm pencil, nozzle from a can of air)
Current System:
eVGA 680i SLi "A2" P30 BIOS
intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 (currently at stock)
OCZ ReaperX 4GB DDR2 1000 (running at DDR2 800 Speeds with cas4)
320GB Seagate 7200.10
XFX 8800GT XXX 512MB (stock clocks)
auzentech X-Fi Prelude
PC Power and Cooling Silencer 750 Quad Copper
Win XP Pro
for the 3-pin fan connector there are 3 windows on the side of the connector. In these "windows" you will see the metal connector itself. There are tabs that stick up from the connector holding it inside the plastic. With a pushpin or thumbtack, press the tab down until you can remove the wire from the plastic piece. For the 4-pin molex side, there are usually 2 or 3 tabs that extend out from the circular pin if you look down from the top of the connector. I take that same pushpin and carefully push those tabs back into the circular pin, allowing me to remove the pin from the plastic molex piece. Hope that helps, and if not, i'm sure your answer is somewhere within this thread, just browse it for a little.
Removing the pins from a molex connector is easy peasy, just use the "inside" pen from a ball point pen, and use the top hole to stick into the connector.
I Are DuneCat
I Controls The Spice
I Controls The Universe
Cooler Master ATCS 840 | Corsair HX 520W | Asus P5Q Pro | Q9550 | HD4870 | Corsair Dominator 4GB PC8500 |
D-Tek FuZion v2 - EK RES 150 - Swiftech MCR-220/320 - Swiftech MCW-60 - DDC 3.2 + Petra's Top
guys hes talking about the female end of an extension cable - I have no Idea how to remove those sort of pins although I too have tried for quite a while to get them out ....
ooooOOOOOOoo! i get what he's talking about, now i just have to find one around here to figure out how to get it apart...
yeah, I've been fighting with them since the day before i posted up those pics a page back, lol, no harm done, easily confused item, lol....guess its what I'm getting for wanting to replace the extensions on my kaze master with black....the fans were easy, lol...its just those *bleeping* extensions that are driving me nuts
Current System:
eVGA 680i SLi "A2" P30 BIOS
intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 (currently at stock)
OCZ ReaperX 4GB DDR2 1000 (running at DDR2 800 Speeds with cas4)
320GB Seagate 7200.10
XFX 8800GT XXX 512MB (stock clocks)
auzentech X-Fi Prelude
PC Power and Cooling Silencer 750 Quad Copper
Win XP Pro
I know you can get the end off of the kaze extensions that goes into the controller, thats how I sleeved mine. I can't remember the exact way I did it but I think its pretty straight forward![]()
yeah, I sleeved by working out of the other end, but I picked up a bunch of black male and female fan headers, and am trying to figure out how to swap out the female end without having to cut and re-crimp...although...some creative cutting might work, lol
yeah, the controller end IIRC was just lift the plastic tab and pull the wire out
Current System:
eVGA 680i SLi "A2" P30 BIOS
intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 (currently at stock)
OCZ ReaperX 4GB DDR2 1000 (running at DDR2 800 Speeds with cas4)
320GB Seagate 7200.10
XFX 8800GT XXX 512MB (stock clocks)
auzentech X-Fi Prelude
PC Power and Cooling Silencer 750 Quad Copper
Win XP Pro
I sat up all last night and read this whole thread. This is by far the best guide I have ever seen. Thanks for starting it Dangals and to everyone that has participated. This is great!!!
Edit:I went back through the thread looking for the screwdriver someone used a dremel on to get the pins out and I can't find it.
Last edited by Rilla927; 04-27-2009 at 12:05 PM.
Awesome guide. thank you for all the informationbut Will Sleeving the Psu void the warranty ?
Intel i7 2600k, Asus p8p67 EVO, Thermalright Archon, G.Skill RipjawsX 8GB, Asus EAH6970 DCII, Corsair AX850W, Asus xonar essence ST, Coolermaster HAF 932,
Crucial C300 128GB, WD Caviar Black 1 TB, Samsung F3 1TB.
The world needs your support.
Join The XS WCG team and help cure Cancer, AIDS, and other diseases.
Warranty:
Take the sleeving off if you have a non-modular PSU. If you have a modular: Take off the sleeved cables and take the sleeve off of the non-modular ones.
The original sleeve (out of factory) removed is usually not an issue. "It can happen that it burned or that you didn't like the look". Alterations like soldering etc, is more of an issue if someone doesn't want to give warranty. But especially in this "recession" the companies are very very helpful. We have asked many PSU-manufacturers and they said the same: sleeving the cables does not affect warranty. But I don't say the company-names to not get sued afterwardsJust call your company if you worry.
I sent a fully individual wire sleeved tx750 (died on me the instant I finished sleeving it) back to corsair and they accepted it no questions asked
![]()
Bookmarks