Retail Q9650 Overclocking Thread

[NapalmV5]

right.. i fully understand the q.. look guys i wont talk about psu anymore/anylonger and you can add temps/cooling to that

this thread/forum have drained all my nerves of/for that..

all the info on temps/cooling/psu/voltages/you name it is thruout the thread..

no one has to believe my claims.. but ive been proven time and time again.. and like ive said before.. my q9650s are nothing special others have better q9650 than i do

if the amationed ^ vcore/vtt + why @ post #1628 + everyone else that have contributed.. some a lot of their work/time (Jor3lBR) to the thread is not satisfactory enough.. well for goodness sake just get an ep45+q9650 and find out for yourselves already!

[tool_462]

right.. i fully understand the q.. look guys i wont talk about psu anymore/anylonger and you can add temps/cooling to that

this thread/forum have drained all my nerves of/for that..

all the info on temps/cooling/psu/voltages/you name it is thruout the thread..

no one has to believe my claims.. but ive been proven time and time again.. and like ive said before.. my q9650s are nothing special others have better q9650 than i do

if the amationed ^ vcore/vtt + why @ post #1628 + everyone else that have contributed.. some a lot of their work/time (Jor3lBR) to the thread is not satisfactory enough.. well for goodness sake just get an ep45+q9650 and find out for yourselves already!

Its a very long thread, I wasn't doubting your claims, just asking what your load temps were?

Would've taken you 1/10th the time to answer it than type that rant.

[Zucker2k]

Its a very long thread, I wasn't doubting your claims, just asking what your load temps were?

Would've taken you 1/10th the time to answer it than type that rant.

I concur; let cooler nerves prevail people. Napalm gets a little bit defensive because of prior contestations.

[nascasho]

I read some reviews on the Nirvana, thats why I got it. They were pretty close to the TRUE as far as temps went. I am considering either going water, or getting one of those CoolIT systems. to get this proc up to safer temps.

[xguntherc]

ive been running these voltages since last year

the 1.2125vider @ 1.58vcore @ bios
the 1.2500vider @ 1.60vcore @ bios

whos got the balls to run that?

so many inquire about vcore yet only so few got the balls!

Getting a little (ocky these days huh Napalm.. haha jk jk. I'm not baggin, you totally have the right. You can do some crazy stuff with CPU's. but you are (ocky. lol.

I believe ur claims, people that are in this thread lately napalm were not around when you posted all that info, so they don't know.. 65 pages takes a long ass time. I understand your sick of answering questions.. but some people are new to this thread with the latest prices of this wonderful chip. I want to sell my 1.21 VID Q6600 and get a spare Q9650..

Also, My board (crappy like you all say) only can go up to 1.45 VTT voltage. Sadness I know. I think a newer BIOS revision can go higher. but I'm not sure. but I'll crank my vcore this week and see how it goes. even though my ambients are high these days now it's getting 100F outside.

oh and nas, the nirvana may be close to the TRUE, but when you get into high overclocking area's like 3.6 Ghz + like your trying to do.. the TRUE will always win, not to mention you can slap a better fan on there and really kill other coolers.

[nascasho]

oh and nas, the nirvana may be close to the TRUE, but when you get into high overclocking area's like 3.6 Ghz + like your trying to do.. the TRUE will always win, not to mention you can slap a better fan on there and really kill other coolers.

Win by how much? I see these coolers cost $60+ and the black one on frozenCPU looks sweet for $70. I don't know if it would be worth the difference in temps or not or put the money towards a WC setup? And I would assume these coolers + two scythe fans for best results? I hope I'll get around 6C+ better performance?

Here at around 80F at 1.25V my temps are 46,46,46,49 IDLE. Load it'll peak 58C-ish.

thanks for the response btw!

[OC Nub]

Jab-tech has the Ultra120 Extreme for $51.99. Pretty good price.
http://www.jab-tech.com/Thermalright...P-pr-4388.html

[xguntherc]

nas.. those temps of 46 46 46 49 on idle.. are those at stock CPU speeds? or overclocked. my room during the winter gets cold, but during the summer I keep the AC around 78F just to keep the AC bill down. at stock speeds my CPU sat around 30c.. and overclocked it was around 38c If I remember right, but now I'm under water, and at 4.0 Ghz and my temps are around 28-31c idle.. even now it's getting up to 78F in my house.

if your temps are 46-49c at stock speeds, those are terrible temps and you should try a reseat, what thermal paste did you use? I think you'd get a good increase using the TRUE..

[BababooeyHTJ]

I read some reviews on the Nirvana, thats why I got it. They were pretty close to the TRUE as far as temps went. I am considering either going water, or getting one of those CoolIT systems. to get this proc up to safer temps.

I upgraded from a Nirvana to a True, both lapped, and that thing dosen't touch my TRUE not by a long shot.

[nascasho]

nas.. those temps of 46 46 46 49 on idle.. are those at stock CPU speeds? or overclocked. my room during the winter gets cold, but during the summer I keep the AC around 78F just to keep the AC bill down. at stock speeds my CPU sat around 30c.. and overclocked it was around 38c If I remember right, but now I'm under water, and at 4.0 Ghz and my temps are around 28-31c idle.. even now it's getting up to 78F in my house.

if your temps are 46-49c at stock speeds, those are terrible temps and you should try a reseat, what thermal paste did you use? I think you'd get a good increase using the TRUE..

I am currently at 3.4Ghz w/ 1.25V in the BIOS. I've already reseated twice and my ambients are about 80 - 85F and same results spread, and with a line across the cores. The thermal paste I use is AS5.

I will pick up that TRUE. Can you recommend a good LED fan to use with them? Scythe are good, but no LED's.

[BababooeyHTJ]

I am currently at 3.4Ghz w/ 1.25V in the BIOS. I've already reseated twice and my ambients are about 80 - 85F and same results spread, and with a line across the cores. The thermal paste I use is AS5.

I will pick up that TRUE. Can you recommend a good LED fan to use with them? Scythe are good, but no LED's.

Pick up a couple of Yates from Petra's.

[nascasho]

Pick up a couple of Yates from Petra's.

I assume you mean these Yates?

Linky

[BababooeyHTJ]

Yes, Sir!

[nascasho]

Okay, probably last question. There is probably a dedicated topic for this but...

Prolimatech Megahalems or TRUE 120? Only because I hear the TRUE only dominate when lapped... i don't feel like lapping...

[xguntherc]

I don't know much about the Megahalem.. the TRUE is tried and trusted by thousands. buy one used lapped. You usually can find them on enthusiasts web sites for sale pretty often.. I have one lapped, but I'm keeping her for a rainy day.

Also nas, you said you used AS5. a line across the cores. how big was that line? like from one side to the other. and how fat was it.. if so that is to much.. with thermal paste, even on these Quads. you're ok with using a slightly smaller than a Pea sized DOT, right in the middle of the CPU. then when you add the cooler, twist each side a little at a time so it adds pressure evenly. that is best way. a line across it all is probably to much. and to much actually traps the heat in. Also AS5 is no longer the best TIM. it's been beat out by a good 2-3c by MX-2, ICD7, or OCZ Freeze. I personally use MX-2. that will also help with a few degree's.

[BababooeyHTJ]

Over in the air cooling section there is a thread where someone, I forget who, said that the Megahalems needs lapping too. I don't know how badly. I wouldn't run my TRUE without a good lapping, the base was BAD. If you really dont want to lap you cooler and I can't blame you because it's a pain in the *** you might want to look into that Xigmaek (or however it's spelled) dark knight. Ask around in the air cooling section.

[nascasho]

Was just about to buy the TRUE until I saw this...

http://www.antec.com/Believe_it/product.php?id=ODM3

For my case anyways. I may consider putting the money towards WC'ing only because I can mount the RAD internally now. It'll cost me $300 though... want to learn.

I should probably start another topic about this though.

[xguntherc]

yes you should start another topic about this. also the 1200 is a big case, you could easily get a nice radiator and put it vertical in the drive bay's. I've seen many people do that on there 1200's and even in the 900. it will work. there is plenty of room.

Personally, I'd spend the $51 dollars and get the TRUE.. add a nice fan to it. Overclock your Q9650 to where you want it.. and then slowly learn more about water-cooling, and wait for that 200mm RAD to be released, and actually used, and or reviewed to see if it's any good. if so, get it.. but I'd rather not.. or wait and get a water loop, either way. I'd get the true because it's just a great cooler. you can use it while you learn, and build your water loop. (That is what I did) and I'm saving it, because there will come a time where you want to go back to air, or you'll need to upgrade, want a new CPU block, your pump dies, something. and you'll need a air cooler and wish you had something like the true so you could still use you high, nice clocks..

Personally, I give Antec a B+ for trying. lol. but until that is released. I'd not bet on it at ALL.. not only do we know nothing about the type of rad, how well it handles heat, how big it is in comparison to ur regular dual, and triple rad's. but ANY rad on the market. ANY, other then maybe the PA series, and the Feser Rad's. ANY other RAD needs fast, high RPM, CFM heavy fans to blow through the rad. I'm sorry but the 200mm fan on the antec may be a nice fan, but it runs very slow.. what 900rpm. it moves 100CFM+ of air only because of it's size, there is no way it pushes hard enough to be a good fan to use on a radiator.

I could be wrong, but I just don't see that fan being strong enough for a radiator, unless they pulled some magic on that 200mm rad.

Either way, good luck. you might want to start a water thread! (in Liquid Cooling section of course)

[nascasho]

yes you should start another topic about this. also the 1200 is a big case, you could easily get a nice radiator and put it vertical in the drive bay's. I've seen many people do that on there 1200's and even in the 900. it will work. there is plenty of room.

Personally, I'd spend the $51 dollars and get the TRUE.. add a nice fan to it. Overclock your Q9650 to where you want it.. and then slowly learn more about water-cooling, and wait for that 200mm RAD to be released, and actually used, and or reviewed to see if it's any good. if so, get it.. but I'd rather not.. or wait and get a water loop, either way. I'd get the true because it's just a great cooler. you can use it while you learn, and build your water loop. (That is what I did) and I'm saving it, because there will come a time where you want to go back to air, or you'll need to upgrade, want a new CPU block, your pump dies, something. and you'll need a air cooler and wish you had something like the true so you could still use you high, nice clocks..

Personally, I give Antec a B+ for trying. lol. but until that is released. I'd not bet on it at ALL.. not only do we know nothing about the type of rad, how well it handles heat, how big it is in comparison to ur regular dual, and triple rad's. but ANY rad on the market. ANY, other then maybe the PA series, and the Feser Rad's. ANY other RAD needs fast, high RPM, CFM heavy fans to blow through the rad. I'm sorry but the 200mm fan on the antec may be a nice fan, but it runs very slow.. what 900rpm. it moves 100CFM+ of air only because of it's size, there is no way it pushes hard enough to be a good fan to use on a radiator.

I could be wrong, but I just don't see that fan being strong enough for a radiator, unless they pulled some magic on that 200mm rad.

Either way, good luck. you might want to start a water thread! (in Liquid Cooling section of course)

Thank you. You helped me too much! The TRUE it is. Thanks again bro.

[xguntherc]

ur welcome.. good luck with ur overclocking.

On another note, when I had a single GTX 260 and a hx520. I was told a better, bigger PSU would be a good idea. and that it would help with overclocking.. So I got one. the 750w Quad I use now.. But then I added another GTX 260. I am now wondering if I am close to the same area as I was before, and I just don't have enough solid PSU power to help with my overclocks.

The reason I say this is because after I got the better PSU, but before I got the second 260. I was able to boot at speeds of 4.275 Ghz, and be stable enough for some Benchies, and I loaded at 4.3 Ghz but wasn't stable.. I tried last night to OC my CPU, and I went to vcore's that I've not done in the past, thinking I'd go over my 4.3 Ghz personal best.. and I could not even load at 4.3 Ghz.. Not even with 1.42v and I did it with less before. So this makes me wonder if it's PSU related now that I'm running SLI, (Oh and Water cooling) So I'm now running SLI, and Water on the same PSU..

Maybe I'm wrong. I don't know. Just thought I'd post and see what you guys say.. Maybe I should just get a 1000w PSU.

[m4gg0t]

I need help getting my my Q9650 to 4.2GHz. Every time i try it locks up 10sec into post and if it gets past boot it doesn't load windows. Running 4.00GHz is fine but i want to try for higher clocks.

[InfinityG35]

ur welcome.. good luck with ur overclocking.

On another note, when I had a single GTX 260 and a hx520. I was told a better, bigger PSU would be a good idea. and that it would help with overclocking.. So I got one. the 750w Quad I use now.. But then I added another GTX 260. I am now wondering if I am close to the same area as I was before, and I just don't have enough solid PSU power to help with my overclocks.

The reason I say this is because after I got the better PSU, but before I got the second 260. I was able to boot at speeds of 4.275 Ghz, and be stable enough for some Benchies, and I loaded at 4.3 Ghz but wasn't stable.. I tried last night to OC my CPU, and I went to vcore's that I've not done in the past, thinking I'd go over my 4.3 Ghz personal best.. and I could not even load at 4.3 Ghz.. Not even with 1.42v and I did it with less before. So this makes me wonder if it's PSU related now that I'm running SLI, (Oh and Water cooling) So I'm now running SLI, and Water on the same PSU..

Maybe I'm wrong. I don't know. Just thought I'd post and see what you guys say.. Maybe I should just get a 1000w PSU.

What are your max clocks on a the hx520? Because Im running into some PSU issues as well (at least I think). Anything over 4ghz is just unstable. But I want to make sure its the PSU before I buy something else.

Running a Zalman ZM-600HP with 4*16A rails and a GTX285. Prime/Memtest/Linx stable, yet Crysis/3dmark06 = instant crash.

[xguntherc]

you're probably ok with a 600w psu.. although I'm not sure how good of PSU's Zalman make.. Maybe you could upgrade to a PCP&C or a Silverstone or something. but I don't know. I'm not the best with the PSU info, that is why I asked in the thread also.. ya know!

[BababooeyHTJ]

What are your max clocks on a the hx520? Because Im running into some PSU issues as well (at least I think). Anything over 4ghz is just unstable. But I want to make sure its the PSU before I buy something else.

Running a Zalman ZM-600HP with 4*16A rails and a GTX285. Prime/Memtest/Linx stable, yet Crysis/3dmark06 = instant crash.

Download the new OCCT and run the PSU test. It will run something along the lines of furmark and linpack. It will stress your psu far more than any other program and give you a nice graph of the bios reading of your 12v line.

[InfinityG35]

Download the new OCCT and run the PSU test. It will run something along the lines of furmark and linpack. It will stress your psu far more than any other program and give you a nice graph of the bios reading of your 12v line.

Thats right, what an awesome program the OCCT test. My PSU passed it. I was really scared, as it pulled a continuous 550Watts for 1 hour out of the socket . But it passed, so not bad for a 600watt PSU right? So how on earth could it then reboot at only 350watts of load?

My overclock was 12 hour prime blend stable, multiple hours of linpack and intel burn test, as well as memtest 8 hours. Weird man.

But after a lot of messing around, I found out that both the PCI1 and PCI2 connector of the Zalman ZM600-HP are connected to the same rail as the CPU. So when my CPU was clocked to anything above 3.4ghz, the system would reboot when loading 3dmark or crysis warhead as it could not provide enough power to my GTX285 (while the power led was showing normal operation ).

The solution is simple: Use the dedicated PCI1 power line for your GFX, and use a HDD power line for the PCI2. Then combine 2 molex of the HDD line into one by using the 2 molex to 6 pin adapter (supplied with your graphics card) That did the trick Apperantly it can now draw power from a less loaded line and remain stable

So anyone with a GTX280/285/295 or Any other heavy GFX can use this trick to remain stable. The PSU can handle much more than you think, no need for a replacement yet

So YESS im now aiming for 4.2Ghz