** Official ** Gigabyte UD3 P45 Series -- EP45-UD3 / EP45-UD3R / EP45-UD3P

[Kumakichi]

Finally got all my parts in and have been running my system this weekend. Just running at stock mghz but playing a little with voltages. System was easy to setup and happily it liked my 4 ram sticks. CPU runs very cool so far but the northbridge runs very warm. Maybe I should consider aftermarket cooling.

Also I salvaged my Tuniq Tower by grinding on the mounting bracket. Just in case anybody else has this heatsink all you have to do is grind off the 2 nubs that stick out. Otherwise it doesn't fit betweent he heatsink/heatpipe setup that comes with the mobo.

[fasttruck860]

Where do you see a lot of problems?


This board is extremely stable, extremely forgiving, extremely inexspensive.

I didn't read through the whole thread, but I thought I saw people having problems with some of the bios'. At any rate this looks like the board for me. I'm looking forward to my first non Asus board.

[Kumakichi]

I didn't read through the whole thread, but I thought I saw people having problems with some of the bios'. At any rate this looks like the board for me. I'm looking forward to my first non Asus board.

I actually read thru the entire thread and then went back and read parts again. Helped out a lot with initially settings and I'm still checking things again. This is my first gigabyte board and so far I'm loving it. GL with your board when you get it.

And your present system sounds a lot like my old pc that just recently folded. Bad psu bit the dust.

[Homeless2]

Is it just me, or is easy tune the only program that reports the 12v rail correctly on this board?

[SpeedEuphoria]

For me it is

[njl]

Does anyone know what aftermarket heatsink will work to replace the mosfet heatsink along the left side of the board? I want to strap my Thermalright HR-05 on the northbridge, but the stock heatsinks are connected by the heatpipe.

You don't *need* to replace the stock mosfet cooler.

If you want to replace the NB cooler, just twist the NB cooler w/heatpipe and it will come loose from the mosfet cooler.
You may want to take everything off the board when you do this so you don't break anything :-)

BTW I have the Thermalright HR-09 but have *not* fitted it to the board as it is just a bit too short in my oppinion. It *just* covers the outer-most mosfets and since you can read that they don't run warm in this thread (and they don't) you might as well stick with the stock.

To be sure I removed the blue heatshield and put a near-silent 120mm fan close to both of them - no problems.

[stasio]

Is it just me, or is easy tune the only program that reports the 12v rail correctly on this board?

Everest Ultimate Edition 4.60.1591 read correct also

[stn0091]

You don't *need* to replace the stock mosfet cooler.

If you want to replace the NB cooler, just twist the NB cooler w/heatpipe and it will come loose from the mosfet cooler.
You may want to take everything off the board when you do this so you don't break anything :-)

BTW I have the Thermalright HR-09 but have *not* fitted it to the board as it is just a bit too short in my oppinion. It *just* covers the outer-most mosfets and since you can read that they don't run warm in this thread (and they don't) you might as well stick with the stock.

To be sure I removed the blue heatshield and put a near-silent 120mm fan close to both of them - no problems.

Really now...hmm...I'll give that a try tomorrow.

EDIT: Mind sharing how many volts you're running through the northbridge? I set it at 1.58v for my overclock (quad 475x9) and, based on touch since there doesn't seem to be a sensor for it, the northbridge feels pretty dang hot compared to my 4870X2, which idles at 50°C.

[njl]

Really now...hmm...I'll give that a try tomorrow.

EDIT: Mind sharing how many volts you're running through the northbridge? I set it at 1.58v for my overclock (quad 475x9) and, based on touch since there doesn't seem to be a sensor for it, the northbridge feels pretty dang hot compared to my 4870X2, which idles at 50°C.

I'm running about 1.4V if I remember correctly.

However my goal is 500x9, so I might have to go higher. Just have to sort out my memory settings, since I cannot get above 480x9.

I have it watercooled now, but when I was on air I was using the Thermalright HR-05 (had to lap it to get it flat though) and it worked just as well. I only went to water to get rid of the fan noise.

[Ravynmagi]

I need some help with my FSB.

I noticed I'm having issues with FSB speeds at 470MHz and higher. I can boot up the computer and get into Windows. And can even run Prime95 for a couple hours with FSB speeds up to 500MHz, but usually no more.

I'm kinda confused, if I can Prime95 with blend at 500MHz FSB for 2 hours, I'd think 470MHz would be a cake walk, but it also fails Prime95 after a couple hours or less usually.

I'm trying to find out what the highest FSB is I can get. So I'm doing the following and hopefully someone can tell me if I'm flawed or not in my thinking...

I set my CPU multiplier to 6x.
I set my CPU voltage to 1.3625v which should be way more than plenty for the lower clock speeds.

When it comes to FSB I am thinking the most important voltage is the MCH. So I cranked that up to 1.5v.

I haven't gone any higher yet. I haven't been able to find a good way to install my 40mm fan on the heatsink. So I'm using an Antec Spot cool (looks like a 80 or 90mm fan on a flexible arm) right over my NB blowing at full speed (2,200 RPM). That Gigabyte cover over the heatsink, while looks pretty, doesn't seem very practical.



Anyway, I'm cooling my NB as well as I can.

I'm not sure, but I think the VTT might be something I need to increase with my FSB too? I decided to start raising it as well. I went with 1.3V, but that didn't help, so I raised it to 1.4V, which still didn't seem to help either.

Idealling I'd like to reach 470 or 472. So I can ran my Q9550 at 8.5x472=4012MHz.

So I'm testing with 6x472 which is only 2.8GHz, so the 1.3625 Vcore should keep that from being a factor. I tried 1.4 VTT and 1.5 MCH.

My memory is using 2.0D with 5-5-5-15 timings and 2.1v but I had already tested the memory up to 500MHz with these settings in MemTest86 and Prime95 Blend, and they didn't create any errors (using low CPU multiplier and FSB and high memory multiplier so only the memory was really stressed).

I haven't really played with the other voltages much when trying to overclock my FSB. Not sure if the PLL or the CPU ref or the MCH ref, or the ICH, or etc would help. Do I need to play with some of these other voltages? If so, which would be the most likely? I'm guessing MCH ref, but does that go up or down?

Thanks.

[Jor3lBR]

Hi guys I'm organizing a Group Purchase for the complete MIPS waterblock kits for these boards (all the series).

People who are interested please post here:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/Forums/...d.php?t=210836

Read above.

[Homeless2]

Everest Ultimate Edition 4.60.1591 read correct also

That worked, thanks!

[The Viper]

Ravynmagi: Im sorta having similar issues. My CPU can run Orthos Smallffts for over 30minutes w/o error, but blend is giving me error after 22-28minutes, even after raising my MCH to 1.3. My memory is only a little over stock and has passed 25minutes of memtest Test 5. The MCH Reference will automatically change as you change the MCH Vcore, as long as you have them set manually in Bios. Im gonna start slowly raising the CPU PLL and CPU termination and see if that has any effect on Orthos Blend Stability...if anyone can enlighten us on the impact of changing these settings, that would be great.

[fatguy1992]

Whats the max safe MCH voltage?

Thanks.

[Ledge]

I think this is close to my max OC. I doubt it's stable but, good enough to run Super Pi and Everest.

[stn0091]

Installed my HR-05...

The mosfet heatsink can be removed from the heatpipe. Remove both heatsinks from the board and just keep twisting and pulling until it slides off.




Mosfet heatsink with heatpipe removed




HR-05.




The Gigabyte faceplate is held on by adhesive so I took it off...




And put it on the new one!!




All that red is ruining this blue theme I have going now.

[SpeedEuphoria]

On mine w/ the F7a bios I had best results with MCH ref of .66, this is with CPU term of 1.2, if you raise the VTT the it will raise it but ET6 still shows it as the VTT is still 1.2.

Well after some testing of different settings/bios I have found what the issue is w/ the noise from the board w/ DES on.

The factory non beta bios's(F4/F5) according to what it says on Gigabyte's site

With support for VRD 11.1, GIGABYTE’s DES Advanced allows the motherboard to switch to 1 Gear phase switching during idle, allowing for a dramatic increase in power savings.

and

The 6-Gear feature may vary by model. Gear 1 phase switching requires 45nm processors with PSI signal enabled

Well they do Not!, they only go down to 2 Phases of power, C4E AFAIK is the "VRD 11.1" which is a even lower power state. Then they also will not down volt the CPU to .9V when you change the FSB/CPU clock speed. If you leave the CPU stock then you get 3 boxes("1","2", "3") in DES if you change the Vcore or CPU clock then you get no boxes(same on all BIOS's), either way the boxes dont seem to do anything from what I see. I dont see much either from C2E/C4E on either bios either, If I disable them or enable them in any of the current bios's it doesn't change anything as far as voltages or phases go.

Now the Beta bios's(F6a/F7a) they do go down to use 1 Phase power this is with C1E/C2E/C4E all turned off, so only EIST is on. Also they will do this when you overclock the CPU and go down to .9v as long as you keep the Vcore on "Normal" if you change to "Auto" it will still work but since your OC'd it will raise the Vcore instead of keeping it at the stock Vcore like "Normal" does. The BIG problem is that this board Screams when only running on 1 Phase, like its too much power being drawn for just 1 phase.


So for now I have went back to the F5 bios to keep 2 phases on under low power as the F4 would not even boot with 425x9 settings.

Still trying to figure out how to keep the board running 2 phases and undervolt the CPU to .9v. I think I will look into or try RMclock as thats what I used on my old AMD rig and worked great.

[fatguy1992]

stn0091, looking nice

How hard was it to get the heatpipe of the mofset HS?

Also do u think it would be possible to put one on the SB?

[stn0091]

stn0091, looking nice

How hard was it to get the heatpipe of the mofset HS?

Also do u think it would be possible to put one on the SB?

Not hard at all; very little force is required to make the initial twist to break that glue holding it. After that, twist it back and forth and it'll come out easily.

I'm sure a low profile heatsink would fit. I have this one here but I didn't think it was necessary to put it on.

[njl]

stn0091, looking nice

Also do u think it would be possible to put one on the SB?

According to Thermalrights site you should be able to fit the HR05 SLI (if I remember correctly), however there's really no need. If I touch the heatsink it's only slightly above ambient, so I don't see why you' need additional cooling.

[BuGjAE]

@The Viper , try to lower Mch Refernce first before you change the Vtt may be 0.68-0.66 and see if gonna be stable yet . Mine use Mch reff 0.68 for E8600
So, you can share your setting

[radaja]

@bugjae,in your sig it says you are using bios f3. i thought f3 was for the UD3R not P.i was trying to find f3 for the UD3P and someone said the first one for it was f4.can you let me know if this is a typo or if not can you post a link

[BuGjAE]

Yes I have F3 Bios for UD3p just use save the Bios before I flash tothe other one,I uploaded it if you want http://uploading.com/files/ZX2RSZMB/ep45ud3p.rar.html

[Jor3lBR]

Yes I have F3 Bios for UD3p just use save the Bios before I flash tothe other one,I uploaded it if you want http://uploading.com/files/ZX2RSZMB/ep45ud3p.rar.html

How come the older release BIOS working better then revisions? Seen that happen with my DFI before but never the release one...

[radaja]

thanks bugjae. i knew i saw somewhere some one using f3 on the UD3P.