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Thread: Swiftech Apogee Drive Mini Review

  1. #26
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    Nice review.

    I have two of these in two different sys.
    Both have been pushing thru the cpu,NB and gpus
    on an intel and an AMD for about 6 months now.
    One was on an older s939 sys.

    When i first used them with just the cpu only i could hear the flow.
    They are much quieter with the nb and gpu,s added.

    (ponders the soldering volt mod)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vapor View Post
    There's a lot less voodoo in watercooling than is assumed
    The only thing future proof in electronics, is the electricity itself.

    Any one who relies on only one source of information is a fool.

  2. #27
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    Another great review Martin!!

    Thanks again!

  3. #28
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    So, other than the bottom of the case lacking feet, I can convert my 12v Apogee to an 18v and drop a top on it? Sweet! Its been collecting dust in my garage for the past several months.

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by mstrmold View Post
    So, other than the bottom of the case lacking feet, I can convert my 12v Apogee to an 18v and drop a top on it? Sweet! Its been collecting dust in my garage for the past several months.
    Yes, as long as it's a blue impeller pump, you can convert any of them from the normal 12V/10 Watt to a 12V/18 Watt pump by soldering a bridge across that connection. Or, you could run a switch off the two points and have it switchable 10W/18W.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post
    That's good info to know..I didn't even know there was a revision.
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  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post
    Yes, as long as it's a blue impeller pump, you can convert any of them from the normal 12V/10 Watt to a 12V/18 Watt pump by soldering a bridge across that connection. Or, you could run a switch off the two points and have it switchable 10W/18W.
    Thanks Martin, it does indeed have the blue impeller, and it has a 3.3 sticker on the corner of the PCB. So, I just simply solder the last contact to the next contact to the right to go from 12v to 18v? sweeet.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by mstrmold View Post
    Thanks Martin, it does indeed have the blue impeller, and it has a 3.3 sticker on the corner of the PCB. So, I just simply solder the last contact to the next contact to the right to go from 12v to 18v? sweeet.
    No, it goes from 10 watt to 18 watt. Not volts, always 12 volts.

  8. #33
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    Smile

    Can i put tec at the back pump to cool down.
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  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by kumar View Post
    Can i put tec at the back pump to cool down.
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  10. #35
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    we should start watercooling pumps

    i have a feeling im going to buy another apogee drive... lol

    i already have 2, but one of the fittings broke on one of them

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big_Daddy View Post
    No, it goes from 10 watt to 18 watt. Not volts, always 12 volts.
    Gah, sorry about that.

    I'm thinking about Martin's suggestion of putting a switch outside the block in case the 18watt mode makes too much noise.

  12. #37
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    Marting great review as always!

  13. #38
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    how would you add an aftermarket top to this? are the 3/8 barbs removable? I dont get it >_<
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  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzbleach View Post
    how would you add an aftermarket top to this? are the 3/8 barbs removable? I dont get it >_<
    you cant added a top and the barbs are not removable...

    the top is part of the block, and so are the barbs.

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzbleach View Post
    how would you add an aftermarket top to this? are the 3/8 barbs removable? I dont get it >_<
    Quote Originally Posted by evil-98 View Post
    you cant added a top and the barbs are not removable...

    the top is part of the block, and so are the barbs.
    ...but you can remove the "mount/barb" part of the unit and replace it with a standard top.
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  16. #41
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    EDIT:
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzbleach View Post
    how would you add an aftermarket top to this? are the 3/8 barbs removable? I dont get it >_<
    This is only if you plan to dispose of the block portion of the unit. The pump motor is a Laing DDC3.1=Swiftech MCP350.

    So all you have to do is remove the pump motor and add a top and you get this:



    Same thing except you don't have the little plastic feet on the pump motor case, but if you're mounting freely (which most people do to avoid vibration noise), it works fine.

    In addition many people don't know that the Laing DDC 3.1 and DDC 3.2 are the same pump motor. They simply designed it so they can make a 10 watt version or an 18 watt version. To make this difference all they do is solder one contact acros the PCB to get 18watts.

    So in the end, the motor that you get in the unit is the same pump motor everyone on the forum is running when they say DDC 3.2 or MCP355, etc. it's just that it has a slightly different cover and it's currently setup to run at 10watts, but you can change that very easily.

    As far as saving the block base after removing the motor. That would be more difficult. You'd have to make your own pump top, or perhaps it would fit in an old apogee or mcw-60 block top if you had one of those lying around.
    Last edited by Martinm210; 09-27-2008 at 06:50 PM.

  17. #42
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    thanks for clearing that up. Just wondering, without a top and if I added/swapped for a bigger rad, could this incorporate a GPU block into the loop?
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  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzbleach View Post
    thanks for clearing that up. Just wondering, without a top and if I added/swapped for a bigger rad, could this incorporate a GPU block into the loop?
    Oh yeah, it has a fair amount of pumping power in stock trim. Also if you wanted more pumping power you could do the 18watt mod with the stock top, but I'm not sure I'd both doing that unless you just had a bunch of blocks and restriction which isn't likely going to happen. Most of the GPU blocks and radiators are fairly low in restriciton anyway....just make sure you have enough radiator/fan to handle the extra heatload.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kibbler View Post
    Hi Martin, I greatly enjoy reading your reviews. Thanks for putting in the time and effort.

    1 question, in these pics...




    Any corrosion risk?
    stainless of course.
    CEO Swiftech

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by evil-98 View Post

    i already have 2, but one of the fittings broke on one of them
    rma - we replace that even if you broke it .
    CEO Swiftech

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by gabe View Post
    rma - we replace that even if you broke it .
    Cool, thats nice to know Gabe.
    I have two of them but havent broke them...Yet.

    Im always careful when changing tubing or adding something else.
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    ^^^^^All shaken, (from the earthquake) not stirred^^^^^


    Quote Originally Posted by Vapor View Post
    There's a lot less voodoo in watercooling than is assumed
    The only thing future proof in electronics, is the electricity itself.

    Any one who relies on only one source of information is a fool.

  22. #47
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    Gabe,if i put a switch on it to switch from 10-18w,is it ok to switch it from one to the other setting while it is powered up?

    Thanks

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  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post
    EDIT:
    all you have to do is remove the pump motor and add a top and you get this:



    Same thing except you don't have the little plastic feet on the pump motor case, but if you're mounting freely (which most people do to avoid vibration noise), it works fine.
    Haha, nice.

    You can buy the H20-120 kit here in AUS for like $75AUD and an XSPC top for $27.50AUD

    Thats $12.50 cheaper than an MCP350 which we'd pay $115AUD for.. with a better top! and a free radiator
    Last edited by Pub_Randy**; 09-30-2008 at 06:35 AM.
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  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by TI66ER View Post
    Gabe,if i put a switch on it to switch from 10-18w,is it ok to switch it from one to the other setting while it is powered up?

    Thanks

    TI66ER
    Im pretty sure that would work but im also pretty sure that would void youre waranty on the pump part. lol
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  25. #50
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    I want to mount a 120x2 inside my Antec 1200 Twelve Hundred rear fans, paired with an Apogee Drive. What's the right rad to pair with this block? Is a PA120.2 a good match, or maybe a DD Black Ice GT Stealth since it's less stressfull (less passes)? Of course, I could always mod the drive for 18w, assuming it's the right pump and all I need to do is solder the two points together. I would assume at 18w the PA120.2 is no sweat?
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