**Official DFI LanParty UT P35-T2R Review/Overclock/Guide Thread**

[smee]

Hey guys,
I'm going to be getting this board, but I'm not sure if I should get the one with the heatpiping or just the individual black heatsinks??
I'm going to be watercooling, QX6700 CPU, 8800GT 512MB GPU...
Is it worth spending the extra money to get the board with heatpiping?

[Mav451]

My PWM and NB areas barely heat up during gaming...I'd expect it to be slightly more from something more strenuous. I'm pretty sure my Ultra-D got hotter in both areas in comparison.

But unless I remember wrong, the transpiper didn't exactly lend itself to a significant increase in performance, so I'd just go with the LT version.

[mad_skills]

One 120mm @5V is enough CFM at any place on a mobo, even on a NB or SB.

[~aoe~]

Hey guys,
I'm going to be getting this board, but I'm not sure if I should get the one with the heatpiping or just the individual black heatsinks??
I'm going to be watercooling, QX6700 CPU, 8800GT 512MB GPU...
Is it worth spending the extra money to get the board with heatpiping?

I bought the LT version as I plan to put a water block on the NB. As the LT has no heatpipes, this will make installation easier.

However, if you don't plan to water cool the NB, then I would imagine that the UT version with the heatpipes will provide better cooling for the NB.

[kberguy1]

I have replaced the OEM heat pipe assembly on my motherboard with a Enzotech Sapphire SLI water cooled NB block and an Enzotech SLF-1 solid copper SB heatsink with fan. I have also modified a Thermalright HR-09 U MOSFET Cooler to mount over where the factory had an aluminum block (I believe this is the PWM area). I cut out the thermal tape as per Praz's suggestion in another post, and then used Arctic Cooling MX-2 thermal paste on the raised components, before mounting the MOSFET cooler to the motherboard through the OEM holes in motherboard.

Also note, those two long chips that were inset on the MB from the aluminum block are being cooled with Swiftech MC 14 copper ram sinks, so that should help. Also, I have two 120 mm Yate Loon Fans directing cool air in from the top of my case (across MOSFET cooler, CPU and NB water blocks, and memory slots), and a 120 mm Scythe SFlex SFF21E fan exhausting air just above where the MOSFET cooler and exposed resistors are located.

I believe this setup will cool very well, but there were a couple small items that were under the OEM aluminum block that are no longer covered. I believe they are resistors, but am not certain. My question is this, do I need a heat sink over the couple of resistors which are now open to the air (used to be covered by the aluminum block on top left corner of MB), or will my current air cooling suffice?

I just thought I should warn everyone that mounting the Thermalright heatsink caused my MB to die as soon as it was powered on. I heard a "zap", saw a small puff of smoke, and that was it. Note I used insulating washers on both sides of MB, so am unsure exactly what went wrong...

In any event, I am now waiting for a new DFI X38-T2R, which will be using the STOCK cooling over the PWM area. I hope my CPU/memory/video cards are ok, but as my other computer is a Apple, I am unable to test.

[Praz]

I just thought I should warn everyone that mounting the Thermalright heatsink caused my MB to die as soon as it was powered on. I heard a "zap", saw a small puff of smoke, and that was it. Note I used insulating washers on both sides of MB, so am unsure exactly what went wrong...

In any event, I am now waiting for a new DFI X38-T2R, which will be using the STOCK cooling over the PWM area. I hope my CPU/memory/video cards are ok, but as my other computer is a Apple, I am unable to test.

If you used it as shipped, lack of cooling of the PWM slave chips is why it died. Doesn't take but an instant.

The Type 2 is the one you need. The thermal tape can't be used as shipped. The SMD caps sit higher then the PWM slave chips. The thermal tape needs to be trimmed so that it doesn't cover the caps. Then the tape will also act as a spacer so that the heatsink clears the caps.

[mrcape]

Ouch! That stinks man, good thing you have another board on the way. At least it will serve as a warning for anyone else replacing those sinks. The x48 looks like it has the same set of PWMs there.

[toosas]

cpu-z shows my e8500 is constantly (mostly while idle) changing multiplier to 6x and back to 9.5x? is it normal and how to prevent it?

[~aoe~]

You need to disable EIST in bios if you want to prevent this. It's an energy-saving process that drops your multiplier when the CPU is idle.

[toosas]

thanks

[mad_skills]

And this works for all C2D who have this instruction, not just 45nm cpu's.

[runmc]

I can run 266/667 - 333/800 like crazy. But I can't post at 333/667 That is keeping all other settings the same.

Got any ideas??

DFI LT P35-T2R
E8400
Crucial Tracers 8500

Ron

[mad_skills]

I can run 266/667 - 333/800 like crazy. But I can't post at 333/667 That is keeping all other settings the same.

Got any ideas??

DFI LT P35-T2R
E8400
Crucial Tracers 8500

Ron

Ppl on anand say that with some fsb straps don't work properly with some rams..
What bios are you using?

[Boyu]

If you used it as shipped, lack of cooling of the PWM slave chips is why it died. Doesn't take but an instant.

what type HR09 are u suggested to use with this board,HR09S/U?

[Roger_D25]

Interesting runmc, I've never had any problems with the 333/667 although I couldn't even boot on the 1066 straps? With that said I never ran anything accept 266/800 and 333/800 anyway so I suppose it didn't matter. By the way I also run Crucials PC2-8500 along with BIOS 12/24.

kberguy1,
Is there any chance at all that you could post some pictures of your motherboard with the aftermarket cooling and the PWM area so we can see the damage done? I've never pulled my stock PWM heatsink so I'd be curious what it actually looks like under there? On a separate note since getting my DFI UT P35 I've tried a few other motherboards but the build quality of the DFI is very good, even when compared to Asus Blitz Extreme (a board I very much enjoy). I cannot wait until the DDR3 X48 hits the streets!

[runmc]

Ppl on anand say that with some fsb straps don't work properly with some rams..
What bios are you using?

I have run 1/1 with my LP UT P35-T2R motherboard and this ram but now that you mention it, I'm wondering if it has to do with this beta 2008/02/14 bios I'm running. I'm not saying it's the bios fault, but it may be the combination. I'm also running the LT version motherboard ATM. I'm gonna try flashing the bios. I'm at 623 with my ram and I think I'm at the max unless I start loosening it up.

thanks for the suggestion.

[Jupiler]

I can run 266/667 - 333/800 like crazy. But I can't post at 333/667 That is keeping all other settings the same.

Got any ideas??

DFI LT P35-T2R
E8400
Crucial Tracers 8500

Ron

Ron,

I was experiencing the same problem yesterday with the 333/667 strap.
Timings were set at 5-5-5-5-12, the rest at AUTO.

From the moment I changed the Performance level to 7/8 or 9, I got the C1 error and it wouldn't boot at all. This was also the case with every other setting I changed manually (1 at a time)

I changed the strap to 333/800 and had no booting problems anymore. I can change every timing manually without getting that C1 error.

I'm using the Ballistix PC8000 on my UT (bios 0214).

[mad_skills]

I have run 1/1 with my LP UT P35-T2R motherboard and this ram but now that you mention it, I'm wondering if it has to do with this beta 2008/02/14 bios I'm running. I'm not saying it's the bios fault, but it may be the combination. I'm also running the LT version motherboard ATM. I'm gonna try flashing the bios. I'm at 623 with my ram and I think I'm at the max unless I start loosening it up.

thanks for the suggestion.

Perhaps LT version has some issues with the bios straps, the former beta, now latest official perhaps doesn't work with some straps.
For example, when i had 11/07 bios on my UT P35 i couldn't get my cpu above 3.6GHz and when i've put 12/24 on it it went up to 3.8 24/7 no sweat.
Try flashing to the old one or messing up with some other straps.

[vortex240]

Ron
I find it that no matter what version on the bios I use the 333/667 strap only works for me on performance level 7. Along with that I have to set the boot up clock to 200 and make sure you have the proper voltage at the NB and such for your fsb setting.

Wojtek

[WoZZeR999]

I'm having some problems with my mosfet area. I got the HR-09 Type 2 (The one that fits the DFI board), I put some tape on the back end of the HS so it would not short out the SMD's, and I used the thermal tape that came with it. My temps went up a decent amount (5C at idle, more at load), and I did have to play with the tape a little bit to get it to sit flat. I still have the other 'half' of the tape, so should I use that, or does anything think it would work better if I used some MX-2 on the Mosfet chips for a hopefully better contact?

[Praz]

I'm having some problems with my mosfet area. I got the HR-09 Type 2 (The one that fits the DFI board), I put some tape on the back end of the HS so it would not short out the SMD's, and I used the thermal tape that came with it. My temps went up a decent amount

Unbelievable. You're lucky the board is still working. You haven't read any of this thread?

[WoZZeR999]

no, I read most of it. I used 2 tapes. One was normal tape for the SMD's, the other was the thermal tape for the actual chips that the stock HS cools. Did I miss something?

[Praz]

Yes. The SMD components sit higher then the slave chips you are trying to cool. Because of that the thermal tape as supplied will not allow the heatsink to sit flat on the slave chips. By adding more tape to the SMDs you made the situation worse.

[WoZZeR999]

No, I used 1 strip of normal scotch tape. I didn't add any height.

In a bad ascii picture of what I did (I'm not at home right now);
________________
|________________|<- "Magic" or Scotch tape (The thin clear one)
|________________|<- Half (split down long way) of the supplied thermal tape.

View is from what you be the bottom of the block, with each tape on it's own side (not overlapping).

[WoZZeR999]

Since I still have the other half of the thermal tape, should I just try again with that half in hopes of better temps, or should I re-apply some MX-2 to the stock HS and use that.