Water cooling the Asus Maximus SE X38

[Pete]

I got some info boys!!

http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/produc...38&language=en

Whats that for the Eddy? I don't see how that fit the ASUS Maxium Formualr X38 and allows both slots to be used as the ASUS 3 doesn't let dual slots

Hi Pete!

The copper block is smaller so it fits between the capacitors:

[Talonman]

What are you saying Pete?

We need to add the "EK-NB/SB ASUS 4 - Acetal" to the SB list?

[theystolemyname]

I'm sort of confused about what to do with my q6600 and maximus formula. I have a mcp655 vario and I will be getting a pa120.3 and d-tek fuzion with nozzle kit shortly.

My dilemma is simple; have a loop containing only the fuzion, or add the appropriate EK block for the northbridge. The goal obviously is stability at speeds higher than 3.6 ghz, 24/7.

Will a set of thermalright heatsinks for NB, SB and mosfets (or even the stock heatpipe s) be adequate for 400+ fsb @ 1.5 NB voltage running 24/7? I took the iniative to remove the thermal adhesive on the entire assembly before first boot, replacing it with MX-2. My NB temps are around 50 C at 1.5v using the stock heatpipe assembly.

Will adding the EK-NB S-MAX into the loop have a negative effects on CPU temps? Also, which nozzle is appropriate for a q6600? Obviously, I'd assume the quad nozzle is the right choice here, but I'm not sure how the addition of the ek nb block would factor into the equation.

[Pete]

What are you saying Pete?

We need to add the "EK-NB/SB ASUS 4 - Acetal" to the SB list?

Personly i have no idea, probs safer to ask Eddy that one which i will do now. It too me look like it allows corssfire & SLI as with the ASUS 3 on mine i can't as the 1/2'' EK barb is too cose over the line of the slot

[WFO]

Under my High def audio device it has Microsoft v6.0.6000.16386 for the driver..

Heck, I don't know any more. I am just glad the delay is gone, and my sound card is working.

Are you saying the driver update is totally unrelated?

I think the delay may be related to the SoundMax driver provided by Asus. Vista has drivers which make the sound card functional a on install if the speakers are plugged into the right jack.. I was just saying the Realtek download probably had nothing to do with it. Like you, I'm just happy that long delay is now gone.

[Pete]

Vista is ya problem, why run an os that hapmper everything, oc is worthless on vista but needed to get it to work at all

[Talonman]

I'm sort of confused about what to do with my q6600 and maximus formula. I have a mcp655 vario and I will be getting a pa120.3 and d-tek fuzion with nozzle kit shortly.

My dilemma is simple; have a loop containing only the fuzion, or add the appropriate EK block for the northbridge. The goal obviously is stability at speeds higher than 3.6 ghz, 24/7.

Will a set of thermalright heatsinks for NB, SB and mosfets (or even the stock heatpipe s) be adequate for 400+ fsb @ 1.5 NB voltage running 24/7? I took the iniative to remove the thermal adhesive on the entire assembly before first boot, replacing it with MX-2. My NB temps are around 50 C at 1.5v using the stock heatpipe assembly.

Will adding the EK-NB S-MAX into the loop have a negative effects on CPU temps? Also, which nozzle is appropriate for a q6600? Obviously, I'd assume the quad nozzle is the right choice here, but I'm not sure how the addition of the ek nb block would factor into the equation.

When you get your pa120.3, don't hesitate to add an aftermarket NB block in your loop. Your OC'ed Q6600 processor can only make 200 to 250W's of heat. The pa120.3 can handle 390 to 400W's of heat. I don't think adding in a NB block into a CPU only loop, would move your core temps any higher at all. I have a CPU and NB block in my loop, and have low temps. I intend to add 1 GPU into the same loop, and think I will still be fine.

If you want 3.6GHz+ 24/7, you might be able to pull it off with the stock block, especially with the TIM you added in yourself, but I still would recomend EK NB block. It is a super performer!

Thermalright heatsinks are nice, and I like mine allot, but also believe the stock heat sinks will do fine too...
Users choice in the MOSFET case I think?

You do use the Quad nozzle with a Q6600 processor.

[Talonman]

Personly i have no idea, probs safer to ask Eddy that one which i will do now. It too me look like it allows corssfire & SLI as with the ASUS 3 on mine i can't as the 1/2'' EK barb is too cose over the line of the slot

No update will be done at this time then.

I will just wait until I receive confromation from a member who gave it a try.

[neo_rtr]

Under my High def audio device it has Microsoft v6.0.6000.16386 for the driver..

Heck, I don't know any more. I am just glad the delay is gone, and my sound card is working.

Are you saying the driver update is totally unrelated?

I have the following
Driver Provider: AnalogDevices
Driver Date: 2007-07-11
Driver Version: 6.10.1.6260
Vista 32

Does this helps?

[Talonman]

Vista is ya problem, why run an os that hapmper everything, oc is worthless on vista but needed to get it to work at all

I love Vista, and am receiving updates from Microsoft all the time.

[Talonman]

I think the delay may be related to the SoundMax driver provided by Asus. Vista has drivers which make the sound card functional a on install if the speakers are plugged into the right jack.. I was just saying the Realtek download probably had nothing to do with it. Like you, I'm just happy that long delay is now gone.

Sounds good buddy!!

I am just gald it's gone too. I will relax my position that the driver update solved the problem then.... It's officially a grey area!

[neo_rtr]

To all with WC loop on the Nb, Sb, Mosfets

Is there a proven way for the tubbing that is best for this configuration?

I recall a CPU. mosfet1 , mosfet 2, Nb, SB on a picture.
Then we have the picture on the 1st page (with vga cooling though)

How about Mosfet 1, Mosfet 2, CPU, NB, SB

you know what i mean? best ways to get the tubbing in place without have to give much of the cooling to away from the cpu.

[Pete]

I love Vista, and am receiving updates from Microsoft all the time.

Glad ya do, just don't talk to me via MSN etc, not you personly but i just find it a bore now hacking Vista via MSN.

Anyway Eddy spoke again

[QUOTE=Eddy_EK][QUOTE=Pete]Hey Eddy,

How come a smaller block, why the need. Did the ASUS 3 not fit properly then?

Hi Pete!

It did fit, but the smaller copper allows block to be placed nicer, and smaller copper sets better base for all new chipset blocks that have very near placed obstacles.

There we go, a revsion devlopement with the thought, care and attension to what ever is going to be coming next!

[Talonman]

So we are saying the "EK-NB/SB ASUS 4 - Acetal" is a replacement block for the SB, or NB and SB?

[Pete]

So we are saying the "EK-NB/SB ASUS 4 - Acetal" is a replacement block for the SB, or NB and SB?

SB only, i think Eddy just lists them as it all for god know what reason but SB only and smaller probs to fit bord better, cleaner, nicer looking blah blah

[Talonman]

Thanks Pete.

SB line now reads:
South Bridge - EK-NB/SB ASUS 3, EK-NB/SB ASUS 3 - Acetal, EK-NB/SB ASUS 4 - Acetal, Sixdesign sold by MIPS.


Do you think the EK-NB/SB ASUS 3, EK-NB/SB ASUS 3 - Acetal are discontinued?

[Cptn Vortex]

Quick question guys, how did you remove the stock chipset assembly? I am pretty sure I broke my board trying to get that thing off....My top PCIe slot doesnt work anymore..... It was on as if it was Soldered on there....

[Fitseries3]

are you kidding? mine just fell off when i removed all the screws/pins.

[Talonman]

I have this in the OP:

My advice on the removal of the stock ROG cooling:
It took me a good 10 minutes with the hair dryer, warming the heat sink, before the stock goop let me gently wiggle the ROG cooling free.
Remove the 4 screws and all pins before starting. The entire cooling rig is all connected, and will want to move as 1 big unit.
You will need to make sure to give the SB some heat too. It has to let go at the same time that the NB does.
Never pull up! Just gently wiggle side to side. It will start to move when it's ready. Pulling up can cause your NB'es IHS to come off too. Most of us like it on, and think it works well with waterblocks.
Ware a glove as the sink get's hot with the hair dryer's heat blowing on it.
Mine was coaxed off successfully.
Try to avoid over heating the mobo if possible. Mabey use a towel as a heat shield for the chips?
The stock goop will be semi-molten when it slides free. It is the ideal time to use some acetone to clean the rest off.

That is my advice...

Sorry to hear about your PCIe slot.

[Cptn Vortex]

Cool, I should have come here first...... Ah well. The SB came off easily. I sure didn;t heat the NB up though, that would have been a good idea. I don;t have a hair dryer, nor a heat gun though, so that would not have worked for me. Oh well, had a bad weekend all together, apart from re-doing my whole loop. Got a DFI X38, so I should be putting that in today, and posting my machine (once it is up and running)

Thanks guys, will come in handy soon...

[Pete]

Quick question guys, how did you remove the stock chipset assembly? I am pretty sure I broke my board trying to get that thing off....My top PCIe slot doesnt work anymore..... It was on as if it was Soldered on there....

I just pulled mine off normaly. Nothing fancy. However i did pull the IHS off the X38. I was left with a naked X38. Amazing thing was it still worked naked and i also can put the IHS back if i need to.

I seam to be the only one with a nake X38 working

[E.R]

I just pulled mine off normaly. Nothing fancy. However i did pull the IHS off the X38. I was left with a naked X38. Amazing thing was it still worked naked and i also can put the IHS back if i need to.

I seam to be the only one with a nake X38 working

That make two of us. Never bother to put mine back when it was "glued" to the heatpipe when i took it of.

[Cptn Vortex]

Nice, lucky guys. I also join the lucky club. I had used some Arctic Silver Thermal Epoxy on my Southbridge of my older 680i board. It worked great. But I am selling the board and decided to try and remove the chipset cooler I "bonded" on. Yeah.....totally ripped the whole tiny IHS off that tiny little chip. I am not sure what kind of metal it is, but is sure is shiny.

Anyway, after freaking out, I mixed up a bunch more thermal epoxy, stuck a bunch in where the IHS used to be, then stuck the stock cooler on, and prayed.

Yesterday, I thought I would give the board a try. To my amazement, the thing booted up, got into the BIOS, temps were Great, and all the devices were showing up! I am so lucky!

[Pete]

So there is now 3 of us with working nake X38's? Only 3 i know of!

The IHS is the same as the IHS on a CPU, Nickle plated copper

Might lapp it and re-fit it!

[neo_rtr]

So there is now 3 of us with working nake X38's? Only 3 i know of!

The IHS is the same as the IHS on a CPU, Nickle plated copper

Might lapp it and re-fit it!

I dont follow you here. You all mean that the "chip" it self came out of its socket and then was re-inserted to its socket??