Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 26 to 50 of 85

Thread: ISH Removal for e21XX series CPUs

  1. #26
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    61
    I was checking a e2140 tonight, it was flat. As far as I could tell it was flat, using a razor blade and holding it up to the light, there was no leakage, trying different angles across the top as far as i could tell was flat as.

    I used the same razor on a GPU heatsink i was lapping on the weekend so i know the razor is good. Are all CPU's supposed to be concave or only some. I'd bank on that this one is flat. good temps too, 30's under TT BT idle 56 load.
    Drive it like you stole it

  2. #27
    Xtreme Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    514
    I tried lapping my IHS and if you do it on the sandpaper, you can see that the edges come off first then the middle part.

  3. #28
    Xtreme Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Denmark
    Posts
    365
    Here is a pic of my old X3210 with the IHS grinded of.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	22092007072.jpg 
Views:	1563 
Size:	70.8 KB 
ID:	70313  
    OCTeamDenmark.Com

  4. #29
    I am Xtreme
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Grande Prairie, AB, CAN
    Posts
    6,140
    I tried to remove the IHS from my 2180 today but had no luck. I couldn't even get the razor blades under the 4 corners

  5. #30
    -100c Club
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Slovenia, Europe
    Posts
    2,283
    Heres my E2140.



    Its hard to cut into the rubber sealant because its application is very thin, much thinner than on A64 chips. I have used a fresh razorblade for the action. In order to succed you must cut very low, very near the PCB itself and then tilt the razorblade upwards so you don't cut the traces accidentaly.

  6. #31
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    61
    thats awesome work tiborrr what results are you seeing from the chip without the IHS?
    It looks as though the IHS is not soldered on. Which is a good thing (or bad depending on what your doing with your cpu)
    Drive it like you stole it

  7. #32
    Xtreme Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Boston
    Posts
    553
    i wrecked two e4300's doing this while using a utility knife blade (what a noob)
    Anyway, just take your time, go slow, work at the corners, and make sure your using a RAZOR BLADE (not a utility knife blade which is much thicker.)

  8. #33
    -100c Club
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Slovenia, Europe
    Posts
    2,283
    chatmaster - somehow i haven't had time to test the temperatures after the procedure, since my DFI died, i will try it tommorow with the P5KC i just bought. After the IHS removal i reapplied the lid back on when the chip was in socket (AS ceramique TIM used) and put it under 2-stage cascade. Unfortunately the P5K doesnt show negative temperatures so you will have to wait for a day or two for me to take proper measurements

  9. #34
    Xtreme Addict
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    The Netherlands, Friesland
    Posts
    2,244
    Quote Originally Posted by Nanok View Post
    Here is a pic of my old X3210 with the IHS grinded of.
    That is just damn cool, was it soldered?
    >i5-3570K
    >Asrock Z77E-ITX Wifi
    >Asus GTX 670 Mini
    >Cooltek Coolcube Black
    >CM Silent Pro M700
    >Crucial M4 128Gb Msata
    >Cooler Master Seidon 120M
    Hell yes its a mini-ITX gaming rig!

  10. #35
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Tampere, Finland
    Posts
    33
    Do you think cpu without HS can take Tuniq or Gemin2 or something?

    Wouldn't be bad idea to use some kind of shim with it!

  11. #36
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Holland
    Posts
    25
    I was thinking to remove mine too but instead i was wondering, could a stock intel cooler be on the cpu without the IHS?

    Hope so but im not for sure...... it would realy suck if the stock cooler wont fit anymore

  12. #37
    Xtreme Addict
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    1,674
    you could always remove the lid. http://thetechrepository.com/showthread.php?t=23

    btw, why would u use the stock cooler?

  13. #38
    Xtreme Addict
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    The Netherlands
    Posts
    1,631
    Been there done that... a naked e6600... temps only dropped 3c though... ah well 3c is enough
    lol... This forum requires that you wait 70 seconds between posts. Please try again in 8 seconds.
    *phone rings*
    Friend: Do you have a spare PSU lying around?
    Me: No why?
    Friend: My PSU just blew up, I think the second 8800GTX might have been too much for it to handle
    Me: what PSU was that again?
    Friend: Antec 480w
    Me:........

  14. #39
    Xtreme Cruncher
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    2,819
    Quote Originally Posted by lowfat View Post
    I tried to remove the IHS from my 2180 today but had no luck. I couldn't even get the razor blades under the 4 corners
    you have to force it in.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Crunch with us, the XS WCG team
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  15. #40
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    California
    Posts
    49
    Did my e2160 today... it wasn't too bad to do. I was more nervous than anything, but once I got into it, I was determined. In the end, the chip survived and is now topless.

    I started off with a standard razor blade, like one used in box cutters or scrapers... but then realized it was too thick. So I broke out a triple blade razor (generic Target brand) and took the blades out. They are perfect for this job. I was able to slide it under one corner and just cut around. Quite simple once I got it under. I think I could do another chip in a matter of minutes now.

    To confirm, my e2160 wasn't soldered to the IHS, they seemed to use the same thing ASUS uses on the NB. Some sort of Thermal Gum/Soft Epoxy.

    As for temperature results... I haven't got that far yet, I am having issued with mounting the heatsink without the IHS, I have come up with a plan, just haven't finished yet. I will update once I have results.


    Current System Specs:

    E5300-R0 @ 4013 Mhz (321x12.5) w/ Scythe Mugen II Cooler
    ASUS p5b Deluxe
    4 x 1gb Corsair DDR2-800 4-4-4-12
    BFG GeForce 8800 GT OC2 Edition @ 742/1728/999 w/ Accelero S1
    Sony AW-G170A (Reflashed to Optiarc 7170A)
    Thermaltake V3 Case
    Enermax Liberty 500w PSU
    2xWD160ABYS, WD2502ABYS, WD3200YS and ST3400620A

    New toy, Q6600 on the way.

  16. #41
    -100c Club
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Slovenia, Europe
    Posts
    2,283
    Yup, i got like 3-4degC temperature drop after reapplying the IHS with some AS Ceramique TIM. Well, better than nothing

  17. #42
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Holland
    Posts
    25
    Quote Originally Posted by Boogerlad View Post
    you could always remove the lid. http://thetechrepository.com/showthread.php?t=23

    btw, why would u use the stock cooler?
    Cuz my optional cooling aint done yet
    And i want to see what i can do with the stock cooler and then every degree lower should help

  18. #43
    Xtreme Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    535
    Quote Originally Posted by TheMysticWizard View Post
    To confirm, my e2160 wasn't soldered to the IHS, they seemed to use the same thing ASUS uses on the NB. Some sort of Thermal Gum/Soft Epoxy.

    How thick does that slop look between the die and IHS? Is it 8800 cooler style thick or ???

    I have a 2180 that I suspect is needing some work such as you are doing.
    C2D E8400 @ 4.4 Ghz
    Asus P5K Deluxe
    Nvidia 8800 GTS @ 648/900
    2GB Ballistix
    Dtek, Swiftech & EK blocks, 2x D5, PA120.3, 2, & 1.
    WD Raptor X 150GB & Seagate 7200.10 320GB
    X-Fi Prelude
    Corsair HX620
    Silverstone TJ07
    Dell 2407 WFP

  19. #44
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    California
    Posts
    49
    Quote Originally Posted by AndyM View Post
    How thick does that slop look between the die and IHS? Is it 8800 cooler style thick or ???

    I have a 2180 that I suspect is needing some work such as you are doing.
    Did you pull the NB cooler off your Asus board? It looks like that... like they applied a square a little bigger than the core that was about 1/32 inch thick.

    Atleast that's how mine looked.


    Current System Specs:

    E5300-R0 @ 4013 Mhz (321x12.5) w/ Scythe Mugen II Cooler
    ASUS p5b Deluxe
    4 x 1gb Corsair DDR2-800 4-4-4-12
    BFG GeForce 8800 GT OC2 Edition @ 742/1728/999 w/ Accelero S1
    Sony AW-G170A (Reflashed to Optiarc 7170A)
    Thermaltake V3 Case
    Enermax Liberty 500w PSU
    2xWD160ABYS, WD2502ABYS, WD3200YS and ST3400620A

    New toy, Q6600 on the way.

  20. #45
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    21
    Why would your remove the ISH, with a geminii and 2 120mm fans my E2140 (ES) will hit a load temp of 34C at with a 2.9Ghz overclock

  21. #46
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Holland
    Posts
    25
    Maybe cuz 2.9GHz aint enough

  22. #47
    Xtreme Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    plan3t 3@rth
    Posts
    987
    Quote Originally Posted by STEvil View Post
    place a razor under each edge giving very slight pressure. If it is soldered then it will stay in place. Heat it with the razors under the edges and it will pop off at the correct temperature.

    Keeps you from overheating the CPU.
    stevil is %100 correct,listen to him...
    Stacker830 Watercooled
    windows7 ultimate 64 bit!!!
    heatkiller(rev3) on 2500k@ 4.5ghz 1.35v,8 gigs 2133 ripjaws 1.5v
    Swiftech Mcp-655,1/2in tygon,13x120 sunnons on junk ps,
    (2)triple 120mm rads,Biostar TP67XE(rev 5.2)
    150 gig velicraptor (stable drive) ssds r still buggy!!
    xfi-xtrememusic,klipsch ultras, sen hd-595s
    Evga Hydro gtX 590,co0lermaster-1250 watt,
    24" Sony fw-900 black ops at @ 2304x1440 85hz/85fps SOLID
    G@m3r 4 L1Fe!!

    http://s76.photobucket.com/albums/j1...0VIEW%20ALL--/
    3dmark 11 http://3dmark.com/3dm11/1102387

  23. #48
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    61
    Come on guys im dying to find out what your temperatures are like and if you can break through the FSB walls.

    I got my hands on a second hand e6300 that im planning to lap @ 1.4v its 72*C +
    Drive it like you stole it

  24. #49
    Xtreme Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    London
    Posts
    577
    cant get the blade under any corner

    this is bad. i soaked it in nail polish remover all night, and now im sure its in it too. HAVE to remove the IHS.

    i even tried cutting it under the rubber sealant. no luck. any ideas?
    i7 920@4.34 | Rampage II GENE | 6GB OCZ Reaper 1866 | 8800GT (zzz) | Corsair AX750 | Xonar Essence ST w/ 3x LME49720 | HiFiMAN EF2 Amplifier | Shure SRH840 | EK Supreme HF | Thermochill PA 120.3 | MCP355 | XSPC Reservoir | 3/8" ID Tubing

    Phenom 9950BE @ 3400/2000 (CPU/NB) | Gigabyte MA790GP-DS4H | HD4850 | 4GB Corsair DHX @850 | Corsair TX650W | T.R.U.E Push-Pull

    E2160 @3.06 | ASUS P5K-Pro | BFG 8800GT | 4GB G.Skill @ 1040 | 600W Tt PP

    A64 3000+ @2.87 | DFI-NF4 | 7800 GTX | Patriot 1GB DDR @610 | 550W FSP

  25. #50
    Xtreme Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Denmark
    Posts
    110
    @ LightSpeed

    You should be able to get a really thin shaving-blade under there. It's like trying to cut a hole in a tire with a toothpick at first, so you will need to use a good amount of force. The rubber-glue (black stuff in this pic):



    will be the same on your's, so be really, really carefull not to put the blade in the center where the core is. My first try with this, was on an old celly, and i did manage to break the core in the corners, not realizing what i was doing (untill i heard the crunching sound of the blade scraping the core).

    It's really a matter of having the right tools for this operation. Look in you'r household (or go buy some) razorblades (shaving-blades), of different size and thinkness. Once you get a small blade, just about ½ a mm in under the IHS, then apply upward, and outwards pressure. You should when be able to get some of the black rubber glue out from under it, and it you are lucky, you can get a more solid blade under there (one you can apply more pressure to).

    From there on, it's a matter of patience. You will get it off eventually.

    Remember, that once you can get a blade under the IHS all the way around, you need to heat up the IHS, so the solder between the core and the IHS will let go. You can use a household hairdrier for this operation.

    Good luck!

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •