New Mozart TX Dual Loop Build with Lots of Pics

[tiro_uspsss]

DO u mean Tyan/Skulltrail fits on Lian 343B?

no - dont think so, as ST mobos are 12x13 i think.. 343B onl takes 12x9.6...

[mildseven7]

no - dont think so, as ST mobos are 12x13 i think.. 343B onl takes 12x9.6...

Thx

[Sunayknits]

After staring at this case for what seemed like an eternity, I finally came to some conclusions.

I decided to mod the case to support my WC build, and add a couple nice features for cleanliness/simplicity:





Naked case, just for reference




Drive cage mod: original drive mounting on bottom, my new position on top. This keeps the drive away from the radiator/fan assembly, and allows me to hide the wires a lot more cleanly



Fill/bleed ports




Cut an extra 1/2" from the door hangar locations which allows the doors to be removed without taking them off the hinges (why oh why this wasn't done like this stock?)




Drain ports



Installed studs for pump mounting - allows for easy pump removal/maintenance. No need to remove motherboard just to get to the pump



See how it works? Bingo!



Hole cut for reservoir return lines



Another hole for SATA data + power


Next up: radiator/fan assembly test fitting!


Thank you to those complimenting the build. Another thanks to those using my build log to discuss motherboard compatibility LOL KIDDING!

[DavidP]

nice job so far Subscribed.

[Waterlogged]

Nice to see you mounted the one on the MoBo tray you did. I'd have a bad feeling if it were the other way, too easy for rouge air to get trapped in the pump the other way.

As for EATX cases, I'm fairly certain (like 99.92615% certain) the YY-0221 will accommodate such a large board, at least that's the impression I get from mine.

[mildseven7]

Ya, it would be great if the side door can take off easily, i will check your mod method when i got home


BTW, are there any buy/sell category ?

[Scubar]

Looks very good so far, i will be taking notes because i plan on getting this case and modding it for a dual loop wc setup.

Just a couple of questions i would like to ask.

How easy was it to remove the doors ? Im getting the full Alu side panel version and i will need to remove the doors so that they can be painted.

Are the feet removable ? If so what is the total height of the case without the feet. I have 72cm of space under my tabletop that i would ideally like to slide the case underneath. If not i will have to mod my desk abit.

[mildseven7]

Looks very good so far, i will be taking notes because i plan on getting this case and modding it for a dual loop wc setup.

Just a couple of questions i would like to ask.

How easy was it to remove the doors ? Im getting the full Alu side panel version and i will need to remove the doors so that they can be painted.

Are the feet removable ? If so what is the total height of the case without the feet. I have 72cm of space under my tabletop that i would ideally like to slide the case underneath. If not i will have to mod my desk abit.

To remove the panel, you just need to remove the front panel. It is not difficult.

The feet are removable, just one screw

Height is 27.5 inch without feet or 72.2cm with feet. May be u can make it with feet as well

I have 2 rad on back external, now planning the third loop, its not ez tho

[Scubar]

Yea im planning 2 loops and 2 PA120.2s on the back 1 for cpu/chipset and other for gfx.

Thanks for the info should come in handy when i can finally get the case in about a months time when its in stock ( really hard to find the non window version in the uk )

[mildseven7]

Yea im planning 2 loops and 2 PA120.2s on the back 1 for cpu/chipset and other for gfx.

Thanks for the info should come in handy when i can finally get the case in about a months time when its in stock ( really hard to find the non window version in the uk )

I will get the Non window if i can make the choice again. I want complete silence, with the see thru window, i cant install the noise foam.

You may already know the screw hole on the black of case won't line up with thermochill, you need either cut out the whole thing or just make some new holes. Also, if you gonna hang them at the back of case, i would suggest PA120.2 and PA120.3, i mean why not..

[Scubar]

Thats the plan i have in mind. Im going for the non window version and installing a bucket load of noise reducing foam. Having 2 Loops with 2xPA120.2 mounted on the back and repainting the outside of the case.

[Sunayknits]

I will get the Non window if i can make the choice again. I want complete silence, with the see thru window, i cant install the noise foam.

You may already know the screw hole on the black of case won't line up with thermochill, you need either cut out the whole thing or just make some new holes. Also, if you gonna hang them at the back of case, i would suggest PA120.2 and PA120.3, i mean why not..

The loudest parts of this build right now are:

a) WD Raptor - annoyingly loud. Get some Samgung Spinpoints for a quiet build or the new 750Gb drives using perpendicular recording. They are almost as fast as Raptors and much more quiet. I mean seriously you can hear this thing seeking in the other room. When I add 3 more (RAID 1+0) it will be absolutely ridiculous!

b) Fans at full blast. At 1500 RPM, it sounds like an air conditioner, but you can play at 2560x1600 with upwards of 100fps in most modern games. At about 800 RPM, the rig is rather quiet and cooling is sufficient for most tasks.

I decided early on I am going for pure performance with this build so I don't care how loud it is. My work machine, on the other hand is very quiet since it runs 24/7 and runs my home theater as well ...

When you have the fans turned down you can hear the pumps humming along I never would have guessed 20 years ago I'd be building a water-cooled computer??? Sometimes I have to laugh at how far things have come - I mean there are 2 water pumps in my Pee Cee!

[Vargher Warg]

Hey!

I really like this Mozart case of yours! I'm looking forward to follow this build

About the annoying sound from the Raptors!

I bought a mCubed "vertical silence" hhd cooler/enclosure box for my Raptor, and It's quite good.
It's doing a fare job with the sound, but you need to have
a fan nearby pushing fresh air over the heat sinks, since the
Raptor gets hot inside the box.

But I really like how it changed the overall sound in my silent system.

http://www.mcubed-store.com/catalog/...42&language=en

[Scubar]

Not sure why everyone complaining about the raptor. i have the 150GB Raptor Enterprise and its practically silent, i have it in a 5.25 anti vibration adaptor

[Sunayknits]

Not sure why everyone complaining about the raptor. i have the 150GB Raptor Enterprise and its practically silent, i have it in a 5.25 anti vibration adaptor

Well I suppose it all boils down to your tolerance for noise. Or how good/bad your hearing is

I personally find the Raptor extremely annoying and I would never use it for a normal, everyday use computer. For this box, I just don't care since it will only be used for gaming so it doesn't matter.

I guess you could put it in an enclosure and all that, but why bother? Just get a new WD 750Gb drive and it will be quiet with performance equal to or better than a Raptor

[Sunayknits]

Allrighty tighty, here we are installing the radiator and fans in a push/pull configuration.

Just making sure everything is going to fit, before I do any wiring or plumbing ...







Initially I hooked up all 4 fans on the same channel for the upper rad. On the lower rad, I hooked up 2 fans on each controller channel.

I was considering the latter for finer fan control - in other words, you could run just 2 fans (on one half of the rad) for normal day-to-day stuff, then turn up the other side when you wanted to game.

I quickly decided that option had little utility, so I now have all 4 fans on each rad tied together.

Also, a single fan on each rad/fan assembly is plugged into a motherboard fan connector. This allows me to read the RPM for each loop.

I found that using 4 fans on a single channel as opposed to 2 fans on a single channel yields only about 50RPM difference, which further strengthened my opinion that 4 fans on each channel is the best solution.

Not to mention, it's much simpler to operate with only 2 channels instead of 4

[The_Beast]

I don't like the case but you're project is looking good

[mildseven7]

Well I suppose it all boils down to your tolerance for noise. Or how good/bad your hearing is

I personally find the Raptor extremely annoying and I would never use it for a normal, everyday use computer. For this box, I just don't care since it will only be used for gaming so it doesn't matter.

I guess you could put it in an enclosure and all that, but why bother? Just get a new WD 750Gb drive and it will be quiet with performance equal to or better than a Raptor

I hate the HD noise the most cus the noise not in constant, H/L pitch, Long, Short, fast, slow. I put them in a watercooling closure. It's expensive but worth it for dead silence.

[Sunayknits]

I don't like the case but you're project is looking good

Thank you. I'm stoked with how it's turning out.

[Scubar]

I dont suppose you could do me one last favour and measure the distance i have marked out with the yellow line from the center of the top hole on the back to the top of the case. Im hoping that the gap is more then 40mm

[smee]

Sunnayknits, Your build is looking great! but your avatar's freakin me out
Any ways, keep up the good work!

[Martinm210]

I really like these cases, if they made them one fan taller to fit two triple rads, I'd buy one for sure.

Very nice build, all these awesome case builds are making me want to redo my case build.

[Sunayknits]

I dont suppose you could do me one last favour and measure the distance i have marked out with the yellow line from the center of the top hole on the back to the top of the case. Im hoping that the gap is more then 40mm

It's exactly 2 inches, which means about 5 centimeters. This is from the center of the hole to the top of the case. Keep in mind that top of the case is recessed about 5 mm and the metal is a few mm thick ...

[Sunayknits]

Hey guys and girls, haven't had much time lately but here is a small update

These are some photos of the reservoirs I'm using, they are AlphaCool Cape Bullseye reservoirs. I really like how they look and they hold enough fluid to be practical too.

I chose the fancy mounting options and also the 'melvin pipe' which is a tube that extends from the center opening into the middle of the reservoir - it makes bleeding a whole lot easier!

I've decided to start using larger images. Lemme know if you like!


Here you see the res as it comes from the factory - with the pre-installed mounting gizmo (which I don't need).

Closeup of the res. Made of POM (Delrin I think). Also you can see the plastic plug used for adding LED lighting if you wish. I'm thinking about using all 3 plugs, with Red Green and Blue LEDs. I can connect them to a microcontroller and do some crazy lighting effects inside the res ... maybe later!

Another closeup - here you can see the Koolance barb fitting in the center vs. the EK fittings on each side. I fell in love with the Koolance fittings and will replace all the EK fittings when I get around to it.

Assembled into bay holder

Just a cool shot, playing with camera settings

Here you can clearly see the Melvin Pipe in the center

I LOVE LOVE LOVE these Koolance fittings! They're expensive, but well worth it for the level of quality ...

From left to right: EK barb, Koolance barb, EK stubby (useless!), Koolance compression 90 degree. You can also see the notch cut into the Koolance compression fitting at the top, which works great with a quarter to make 'em nice and tight

Can you say FUGLY? These are the EK barbs in the EK blocks. Not only do they look terrible, but the diameter of the thread ends is slightly oversize. This makes them difficult to thread in (have to use a wrench) and when you remove them you have little bits of Delrin (like hairs) on the inside of the blocks. Not good! In contrast, the Koolance fittings thread in easily by hand and fit absolutely perfectly. Furthermore, the threads on the Koolance fittings are shorter so they don't protrude into the blocks as far - particularly important on the copper side of FC 8800GTX blocks. You don't have to use that goofy spacer provided with the block ...

A good closeup of the EK barbs vs Koolance compression. Quality!

I know I'm gushing about the Koolance fittings, but they do have a bad side. They rust very quickly. I left distilled H20 in the system for a week, thinking everything would be ok for such a short period, and found rust inside all the fittings before I could add anti-corrosives. Ever since I changed the fluid I haven't seen any more rust but just be aware - DO NOT run without anticorrosives for ANY length of time

[Sunayknits]

Sunnayknits, Your build is looking great! but your avatar's freakin me out
Any ways, keep up the good work!

Hehe, thanks for the good vibes! I love how that avatar is so sick. I chuckle whenever I see it