**Official ABIT IP-35 Pro Review/Overclock/Guide Thread**

[AstroCreep]

Liquid or powder can be in a heatpipe.

[luihed]

Powder? How will that work

[Pntgrd]

I'd be interested to see if that will help out. I'd be inclined to think "No", but hey - it's the world of computers, I've seen weirder crap happen.

I hooked it up but alas, it made no difference. I tried a run @8x450 @ 1.4325 which gives me 1.36 in Uguru. I bumped all the other voltages up 3 notches except ram which I left at 2.2. Ram was at DDR900 @ 5-5-5-12-2T, under it's rated specs. Same results, core 3 crapped out at just over 3 minutes in Prime. CPU temp was mid 50's in CoreTemp. PMW was @ 61c. I will try reflashing the bios tomorrow night to see if it makes any difference. This is starting to frustrate me a bit (no pun intended).

[cLOUDFAn]

Hi I'm going to get this motherboard soon but out of curiosity I would like to know if the cooling system really uses a heatpipe, I suppose this question is directed to cLOUDFAn unless anybody else is mad enough to saw their heatpipe in half.

Well...I am not mad but I did chop off the stock coolers in order to install HR-05 for NB and HR-05 SLI for SB (yeah I know, it is kinda an overkill)
The reason I cut it off is because I had to keep the stock PWM cooler (couldn't find anything else that fits PWM area)
I did install a 40mm fan over PWM tho
Now I am very happy w/ the temps (all use push pins, pwm 35c/50c idle/load)

[FlimFlam00]

So this is my second board since my first one was borked from the get go.

Anyway, if I make ANY changes in the BIOS my rig won't post. This board is like 4 days old. I was able to load XP and Vista 64. I had to change the USB control in the BIOS to Keyboard over OS. They keyboard would respond at the BIOS splash but not after post like hitting any key to boot from cd.

For some reason my new Vista install went to trash. Now I am trying to boot into XP but can't and cannot even OC. If I make changes in the BIOS, my machine won't post. It just stutters, and the fans and lights flicker and it won't start. It won't start after saving BIOS settings. Now I can enter the BIOS by hitting delete, but when I have to get to the OS selection screen or "Press Any key" screens, it won;t respond even though there is backlighting and power to the KB.

Seems I am kind of screwed, and have been very unhappy with this abit board, my first actual abit. The two versions of the BIOS make no difference. Any suggestions, or a simple oversight by me will be welcome.

[Alik4041]

So this is my second board since my first one was borked from the get go.

Anyway, if I make ANY changes in the BIOS my rig won't post. This board is like 4 days old. I was able to load XP and Vista 64. I had to change the USB control in the BIOS to Keyboard over OS. They keyboard would respond at the BIOS splash but not after post like hitting any key to boot from cd.

For some reason my new Vista install went to trash. Now I am trying to boot into XP but can't and cannot even OC. If I make changes in the BIOS, my machine won't post. It just stutters, and the fans and lights flicker and it won't start. It won't start after saving BIOS settings. Now I can enter the BIOS by hitting delete, but when I have to get to the OS selection screen or "Press Any key" screens, it won;t respond even though there is backlighting and power to the KB.

Seems I am kind of screwed, and have been very unhappy with this abit board, my first actual abit. The two versions of the BIOS make no difference. Any suggestions, or a simple oversight by me will be welcome.

I would RMA the motherboard but not before giving abit's customer support a call.

[luihed]

Well...I am not mad but I did chop off the stock coolers in order to install HR-05 for NB and HR-05 SLI for SB (yeah I know, it is kinda an overkill)
The reason I cut it off is because I had to keep the stock PWM cooler (couldn't find anything else that fits PWM area)
I did install a 40mm fan over PWM tho
Now I am very happy w/ the temps (all use push pins, pwm 35c/50c idle/load)

When I was using water for the nb, I used some OCZ bga ramsinks for the mosfett and they worked really well.... my PWN temp was lower than with the stock heatpipe... I used (8) full sinks and (4) 1/2 sinks and put one on each mosfett with some AS5, then I used a lil bit of crazyglue to stick all the bga sinks together to make one big heatsink.... Since each mosfett has its own sink, contact is perfect.... easily 5c cooler than stock at load....

[cLOUDFAn]

When I was using water for the nb, I used some OCZ bga ramsinks for the mosfett and they worked really well.... my PWN temp was lower than with the stock heatpipe... I used (8) full sinks and (4) 1/2 sinks and put one on each mosfett with some AS5, then I used a lil bit of crazyglue to stick all the bga sinks together to make one big heatsink.... Since each mosfett has its own sink, contact is perfect.... easily 5c cooler than stock at load....

sounds good
but how do you stick that big heatsink onto mosfet? crazyglue it as well? (I have some AS adhesive left, maybe I will try that)

[Master of None]

So this is my second board since my first one was borked from the get go.

Anyway, if I make ANY changes in the BIOS my rig won't post. This board is like 4 days old. I was able to load XP and Vista 64. I had to change the USB control in the BIOS to Keyboard over OS. They keyboard would respond at the BIOS splash but not after post like hitting any key to boot from cd.

For some reason my new Vista install went to trash. Now I am trying to boot into XP but can't and cannot even OC. If I make changes in the BIOS, my machine won't post. It just stutters, and the fans and lights flicker and it won't start. It won't start after saving BIOS settings. Now I can enter the BIOS by hitting delete, but when I have to get to the OS selection screen or "Press Any key" screens, it won;t respond even though there is backlighting and power to the KB.

Seems I am kind of screwed, and have been very unhappy with this abit board, my first actual abit. The two versions of the BIOS make no difference. Any suggestions, or a simple oversight by me will be welcome.

Go here:

http://forum.uabit.com/forumdisplay.php?f=48

Post your problems, list all components.

[luihed]

I didnt have to use anything cos my board lays flat instead of upright in a case, the as5 is enough to keep them from moving around.... These sinks came with thermal tape and they were very good but I just yanked these from my commando...

http://www.ocztechnology.com/product...s-discontinued

[C-N]

If I make ANY changes in the BIOS my rig won't post.

Any suggestions, or a simple oversight by me will be welcome.

What RAM are you using?

I had/have the same issue with my oldest set of OCZ PC2-8500 SLI that I use for suicide runs & generally abuse but luckily I have several sets so I just change the RAM overclock to where I want to be then slip the old torture able set back in & everything runs fine.

My old set wont boot @ 1.8v either so again if the CMOS needs clearing I have to change the RAM to a newer set or sometimes I use a 512mb stick of no name cheap 1.8v CL5 PC2-6400 just to boot.

What I am getting at is perhaps you should try some different RAM & see if it helps.

CN

[chawks2]

Here is some information on the heatpipe. There used to be a pic in that thread showing the cross section of the pipe itself. If I remember correctly, it was a wet type of foam.

For those who read the thread, the 3 x 13 heatsink does not fit on the mosfets.

[AstroCreep]

I'm curious about the question about using thermal adhesive with Ace's mod.
Ace, why not use some AS thermal adhesive? Maybe it wouldn't be the best of ideas for the NB/SB, but what about the MOSFETS? Would that be any better at cooling? I wouldn't see how, but hey...I don't know. :p

[Ace-a-Rue]

I hooked it up but alas, it made no difference. I tried a run @8x450 @ 1.4325 which gives me 1.36 in Uguru. I bumped all the other voltages up 3 notches except ram which I left at 2.2. Ram was at DDR900 @ 5-5-5-12-2T, under it's rated specs. Same results, core 3 crapped out at just over 3 minutes in Prime. CPU temp was mid 50's in CoreTemp. PMW was @ 61c. I will try reflashing the bios tomorrow night to see if it makes any difference. This is starting to frustrate me a bit (no pun intended).

try everest stability over prime 95...you don't need prime to qualify your system as stable.

[Ace-a-Rue]

I'm curious about the question about using thermal adhesive with Ace's mod.
Ace, why not use some AS thermal adhesive? Maybe it wouldn't be the best of ideas for the NB/SB, but what about the MOSFETS? Would that be any better at cooling? I wouldn't see how, but hey...I don't know. :p

never tried the self-adhesive stuff so i can't say...always used ceramique for my paste of choice since it is totally non-conductive...AS5 can conduct electrical curent if the paste is compressed sufficiently.

[FlimFlam00]

What RAM are you using?

I had/have the same issue with my oldest set of OCZ PC2-8500 SLI that I use for suicide runs & generally abuse but luckily I have several sets so I just change the RAM overclock to where I want to be then slip the old torture able set back in & everything runs fine.

My old set wont boot @ 1.8v either so again if the CMOS needs clearing I have to change the RAM to a newer set or sometimes I use a 512mb stick of no name cheap 1.8v CL5 PC2-6400 just to boot.

What I am getting at is perhaps you should try some different RAM & see if it helps.

CN

I am using XMS pc8500. I only have two sets at the moment. 2 x 1gb Corsair, and 2 x 2gb Mushkin. I gave a set to a needy friend, but thinking of picking up some Crucials or Gskills this week. I have just been spending money like mad - iPhone, Macbook Pro, 2nd rig, 42" HDTV, etc, and I still have stuff on my "wish list."

Well I love the features and layout of the board, but have had problems with two of them. It is very quirky, and am much more fond of 680i board at the moment. I may just RMA this board again or get another 680i board, or the DFI p35. Just as long as it works, I am good, because in a short while it is going to be replaced with an X38 or nVidia C72 board.

Problems the past two weeks:

My LL a05 build:

cpu backplate fell behind mobo when install WB (doh!)
two borked Swiftech pumps (RMA'd)
bad ip35 board (RMA)
corrupted Vista64 install
2nd ip35 - acting really funny

build for someone else

rad leak
rad puncture
fan cable cut (sliced it cutting a zip tie)
bad IDE cable (two hours to TS)
faulty DVD drive

Are the Hardware God's testing my skills/patience or what? Though some of them were my SNAFU's.

I am going to read every post in this thread to see if i can glean some settings.

Thanks guys.

[fornowagain]

try everest stability over prime 95...you don't need prime to qualify your system as stable.

Tried Everest before, gets the cpu as hot as Prime blend. Prime small fft's get a lot hotter, at least 8C more on mine.

OCCT or S&M may push it even harder havent tried them on a quad yet, better still folding.

http://www.ocbase.com/perestroika_en/index.php?Download
http://testmem.nm.ru/snm.htm

[MikalCarbine]

Any word on the next official bios release?

[Alik4041]

Just received my IP35 PRO and Q6600 G0 a minute ago! I still have to wait for the 8800GTS to come tomorrow but damn am I excited . I'm going to home depot to purchase the nuts and bolts for the heatpipe mod. You can clearly see that the heatpipe is not seated right. I'll take pics later. Also purchased a 1k ohm pot for vdroop mod. I'm going to purchase some MX-2, but it will take a week or so to arrive so I'll be on AS5 until then. I know the difference is minimal, but I like it. The board looks very promising. BTW, I've been staring at my q6600 in its box and dr00ling ever since I saw it New rig in sig, upgraded from 875chipset (and I thought 250FSB was an achievement ).

[K20]

Here is some information on the heatpipe. There used to be a pic in that thread showing the cross section of the pipe itself. If I remember correctly, it was a wet type of foam.

For those who read the thread, the 3 x 13 heatsink does not fit on the mosfets.

You have saved the lives of many heatpipes today.

If you have de-soldered your heatpipe is it one long one from mosfets - southbridge or 2 short ones from mosfets - northbridge, northbridge - southbridge?

[chawks2]

If you have de-soldered your heatpipe is it one long one from mosfets - southbridge or 2 short ones from mosfets - northbridge, northbridge - southbridge?

I decided against getting crazy with the heatpipe and delved into watercooling. Hopefully, someone has done this mod and has an answer!

[K20]

I decided against getting crazy with the heatpipe and delved into watercooling. Hopefully, someone has done this mod and has an answer!

So what, you've watercooled your NB, SB and Mosfets?

[Soulburner]

I'm curious about the question about using thermal adhesive with Ace's mod.
Ace, why not use some AS thermal adhesive? Maybe it wouldn't be the best of ideas for the NB/SB, but what about the MOSFETS? Would that be any better at cooling? I wouldn't see how, but hey...I don't know. :p

Just use Arctic Cooling MX-1/MX-2.

Just to throw another tidbit of info out there for the searches...the IP35 makes almost perfect contact out of the box. The IP35 Pro seems to sit crooked on the NB though. Not sure why there is a big difference in the quality of the two.

[chawks2]

So what, you've watercooled your NB, SB and Mosfets?

NB is WC, wish I did SB too, but just have the aBIT cooler. Mosfets have RAM sinks on them, PWM temps dont go above 50c.

[K20]

NB is WC, wish I did SB too, but just have the aBIT cooler. Mosfets have RAM sinks on them, PWM temps dont go above 50c.

Yes in the thread you linked to said you were going to watercool your NB and wanted to know how to dismantle your heatpipe so you could use the SB and mosfet parts.

So if you have only the SB part of the stock heatpipe installed then surely must have somehow dismantled it?