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Thread: **Official ABIT IP-35 Pro Review/Overclock/Guide Thread**

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by K20 View Post
    Hi I'm going to get this motherboard soon but out of curiosity I would like to know if the cooling system really uses a heatpipe, I suppose this question is directed to cLOUDFAn unless anybody else is mad enough to saw their heatpipe in half.

    Mines getting chopped up in the next couple of weeks if I manage to do my mod... If its a real heatpipe there should be some sort of liquid inside right?

    Anybody know if the heatpipe is copper or something else?
    E8400 DFI LP P35T2R Ballistix

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  2. #2
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    Abit ip35 problem

    So this is my second board since my first one was borked from the get go.

    Anyway, if I make ANY changes in the BIOS my rig won't post. This board is like 4 days old. I was able to load XP and Vista 64. I had to change the USB control in the BIOS to Keyboard over OS. They keyboard would respond at the BIOS splash but not after post like hitting any key to boot from cd.

    For some reason my new Vista install went to trash. Now I am trying to boot into XP but can't and cannot even OC. If I make changes in the BIOS, my machine won't post. It just stutters, and the fans and lights flicker and it won't start. It won't start after saving BIOS settings. Now I can enter the BIOS by hitting delete, but when I have to get to the OS selection screen or "Press Any key" screens, it won;t respond even though there is backlighting and power to the KB.

    Seems I am kind of screwed, and have been very unhappy with this abit board, my first actual abit. The two versions of the BIOS make no difference. Any suggestions, or a simple oversight by me will be welcome.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlimFlam00 View Post
    So this is my second board since my first one was borked from the get go.

    Anyway, if I make ANY changes in the BIOS my rig won't post. This board is like 4 days old. I was able to load XP and Vista 64. I had to change the USB control in the BIOS to Keyboard over OS. They keyboard would respond at the BIOS splash but not after post like hitting any key to boot from cd.

    For some reason my new Vista install went to trash. Now I am trying to boot into XP but can't and cannot even OC. If I make changes in the BIOS, my machine won't post. It just stutters, and the fans and lights flicker and it won't start. It won't start after saving BIOS settings. Now I can enter the BIOS by hitting delete, but when I have to get to the OS selection screen or "Press Any key" screens, it won;t respond even though there is backlighting and power to the KB.

    Seems I am kind of screwed, and have been very unhappy with this abit board, my first actual abit. The two versions of the BIOS make no difference. Any suggestions, or a simple oversight by me will be welcome.
    I would RMA the motherboard but not before giving abit's customer support a call.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlimFlam00 View Post
    So this is my second board since my first one was borked from the get go.

    Anyway, if I make ANY changes in the BIOS my rig won't post. This board is like 4 days old. I was able to load XP and Vista 64. I had to change the USB control in the BIOS to Keyboard over OS. They keyboard would respond at the BIOS splash but not after post like hitting any key to boot from cd.

    For some reason my new Vista install went to trash. Now I am trying to boot into XP but can't and cannot even OC. If I make changes in the BIOS, my machine won't post. It just stutters, and the fans and lights flicker and it won't start. It won't start after saving BIOS settings. Now I can enter the BIOS by hitting delete, but when I have to get to the OS selection screen or "Press Any key" screens, it won;t respond even though there is backlighting and power to the KB.

    Seems I am kind of screwed, and have been very unhappy with this abit board, my first actual abit. The two versions of the BIOS make no difference. Any suggestions, or a simple oversight by me will be welcome.

    Go here:

    http://forum.uabit.com/forumdisplay.php?f=48

    Post your problems, list all components.

    Axelia - AX78; 9500 Phenom; 2 x 2GB G.Skill PC2 8000; OCZ 450 ModStream; 250GB WD; Sapphire HD 3450; Thermalright Ultra-120; 239 x 10.5 = 2.5GHz
    Andrea - AW9D Max; E6600; 2 x 2GB G.Skill PC2 8000; Enermax 495; 2 x 80GB Hitachi’s RAID 0; MSI 8500GT; Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme; 378 x 9 = 3.4GHz
    Ipo - IP35 Pro; E4400; 2 x 1GB G.Skill PC2 8500; Corsair VX550; eVGA 7600GS; Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme; 320 x 10 = 3.2GHz
    Idonia - IP35-E; E2140; 2 x 1GB G.Skill PC2 6400 HK; OCZ 450 ModStream; eVGA 7600GS; Lian-Li PC-52; XP MCE/SUSE 10.3; 400 x 8 = 3.2GHz
    Stockard - NF-95; 3200+ Venice; 2 x 1GB OCZ PC3200 Platinum; XP MCE; 240 x 10 = 2.4GHz…That’s NOT Stock anymore! – Now my Wife’s
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    Cary - NF8; 3400+ ClawHammer; 2 x 512MB OCZ PC3500ELDC Gold; XP-90; FSP 400; 219 x 11 = 2.4GHz - Now my Mom’s

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlimFlam00 View Post
    If I make ANY changes in the BIOS my rig won't post.

    Any suggestions, or a simple oversight by me will be welcome.
    What RAM are you using?

    I had/have the same issue with my oldest set of OCZ PC2-8500 SLI that I use for suicide runs & generally abuse but luckily I have several sets so I just change the RAM overclock to where I want to be then slip the old torture able set back in & everything runs fine.

    My old set wont boot @ 1.8v either so again if the CMOS needs clearing I have to change the RAM to a newer set or sometimes I use a 512mb stick of no name cheap 1.8v CL5 PC2-6400 just to boot.

    What I am getting at is perhaps you should try some different RAM & see if it helps.

    CN


    Home / Play Rig Asrock Z87 OC Formula/AC, i7 4770K L310B487, 8GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2666 CL10, BeQuiet Dark Power Pro P8 1200W PSU, 120GB Corsair Force GT SSD, 2 x 1TB WD Sata Drives Mirrored, Palit 680GTX JetStream, Antec Kuhler 920, Windows 10 Pro, Logitech LX700 Deskset, AOC 27" Monitor.

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  6. #6
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    Here is some information on the heatpipe. There used to be a pic in that thread showing the cross section of the pipe itself. If I remember correctly, it was a wet type of foam.

    For those who read the thread, the 3 x 13 heatsink does not fit on the mosfets.
    "The only solid piece of scientific truth about which I feel totally confident is that we are profoundly ignorant about nature...It is this sudden confrontation with the depth and scope of ignorance that represents the most significant contribution of 20th century science to the human intellect."
    -Lewis Thomas, The Medusa and the Snail

    "The best definition we have found for civilization is that civilized man does what is best for all, the savage does what is best for himself."
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by chawks2 View Post
    Here is some information on the heatpipe. There used to be a pic in that thread showing the cross section of the pipe itself. If I remember correctly, it was a wet type of foam.

    For those who read the thread, the 3 x 13 heatsink does not fit on the mosfets.
    You have saved the lives of many heatpipes today.

    If you have de-soldered your heatpipe is it one long one from mosfets - southbridge or 2 short ones from mosfets - northbridge, northbridge - southbridge?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by K20 View Post
    If you have de-soldered your heatpipe is it one long one from mosfets - southbridge or 2 short ones from mosfets - northbridge, northbridge - southbridge?
    I decided against getting crazy with the heatpipe and delved into watercooling. Hopefully, someone has done this mod and has an answer!
    "The only solid piece of scientific truth about which I feel totally confident is that we are profoundly ignorant about nature...It is this sudden confrontation with the depth and scope of ignorance that represents the most significant contribution of 20th century science to the human intellect."
    -Lewis Thomas, The Medusa and the Snail

    "The best definition we have found for civilization is that civilized man does what is best for all, the savage does what is best for himself."
    -Edwin Hubble

    H.E.A.T
    MarioKart FID-0774-5798-8330

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by chawks2 View Post
    I decided against getting crazy with the heatpipe and delved into watercooling. Hopefully, someone has done this mod and has an answer!
    So what, you've watercooled your NB, SB and Mosfets?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by C-N View Post
    What RAM are you using?

    I had/have the same issue with my oldest set of OCZ PC2-8500 SLI that I use for suicide runs & generally abuse but luckily I have several sets so I just change the RAM overclock to where I want to be then slip the old torture able set back in & everything runs fine.

    My old set wont boot @ 1.8v either so again if the CMOS needs clearing I have to change the RAM to a newer set or sometimes I use a 512mb stick of no name cheap 1.8v CL5 PC2-6400 just to boot.

    What I am getting at is perhaps you should try some different RAM & see if it helps.

    CN
    I am using XMS pc8500. I only have two sets at the moment. 2 x 1gb Corsair, and 2 x 2gb Mushkin. I gave a set to a needy friend, but thinking of picking up some Crucials or Gskills this week. I have just been spending money like mad - iPhone, Macbook Pro, 2nd rig, 42" HDTV, etc, and I still have stuff on my "wish list."

    Well I love the features and layout of the board, but have had problems with two of them. It is very quirky, and am much more fond of 680i board at the moment. I may just RMA this board again or get another 680i board, or the DFI p35. Just as long as it works, I am good, because in a short while it is going to be replaced with an X38 or nVidia C72 board.

    Problems the past two weeks:

    My LL a05 build:

    cpu backplate fell behind mobo when install WB (doh!)
    two borked Swiftech pumps (RMA'd)
    bad ip35 board (RMA)
    corrupted Vista64 install
    2nd ip35 - acting really funny

    build for someone else

    rad leak
    rad puncture
    fan cable cut (sliced it cutting a zip tie)
    bad IDE cable (two hours to TS)
    faulty DVD drive

    Are the Hardware God's testing my skills/patience or what? Though some of them were my SNAFU's.

    I am going to read every post in this thread to see if i can glean some settings.

    Thanks guys.

  11. #11
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    Can you guys please tell me how to make a MS Dos USB Flash Drive? I'm trying to flash my bios with Ace's Guide. Really need help on this. Thanks.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alik4041 View Post
    Can you guys please tell me how to make a MS Dos USB Flash Drive? I'm trying to flash my bios with Ace's Guide. Really need help on this. Thanks.
    use this tool to make your USB drive into a bootable drive:

    http://files.extremeoverclocking.com/file.php?f=197
    BIOSTAR TPOWER I45 UNOFFICIAL THREAD

    BIOSTAR TPOWER BOLT MOD FOR HEATPIPE AND HEATSINK

    BIOSTAR TPOWER I45 BIOS FLASHING PROCEDURE

    ABIT IP35 PRO HEATPIPE MOD

    ABIT IP35 PRO BIOS FLASHING PROCEDURE

    IP35 Pro: 9650@4000Mhz, par overclocker; Freezone Elite; 4Gb GSkill DDR-800@DDR-1068 (2 x 2gb); XFX 8800 GTS; Areca 8X PCIe in Raid 0 working at 4x speed; 4-250 Gb (single platter) 7200.10 drives; Giga 3DAurora case with side window.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue View Post
    use this tool to make your USB drive into a bootable drive:

    http://files.extremeoverclocking.com/file.php?f=197
    Thanks. I'm doing your heatpipe mod as I post this Homedepot only had the #4 Galvanized washer. And the #4 bolts are flat head bolts but it'll do. I'm gonna leave the thermal tape on until I receive my MX-2. BTW, do you guys think it's worth the upgrade from a Zalman 9500 to a TRUE?

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