Project "CUBEIT"

[GeoffP]

Ranker,

Found the link on how to sleeve a cable - here

[septim]

freecableguys instruction are very informative as usual.

[GeoffP]

Does it matter which input you use at the bottom of the EK Reservoir?

I am using the bottom vertical flow hole for out and the bottom horizontal flow hole directly above it for in.

There are two bottom horizontal holes with a small divider between them. In the above in/out config, does it matter which side of the divider the in flow is on?

Hope this makes sense...

[GeoffP]

How long does it take the AS adhesive to set firmly?

I mixed it with a bit less than 1 to 1 with Ceramique.

The ram sinks felt fairly solid, started putting on the tubing, and they still fell off.

Do you have to leave this stuff overnight to harden?

[GeoffP]

Jesus. I didn't even go to those lengths. I just put the AS-A/Ceramique mix directly on top the tape.

How long did you leave the mix to harden before handling the GPU?

I gave it a couple of hours, thought the ram sinks were firmly attached, started putting on my tubing, they all fell off..

Have any of your sinks been knocked off since you stuck them on with adhesive/ceramique?

[ranker]

I found a link on sleeving which was very descriptive - will try to find it for you. I used that information to do the fans on the rad shroud. After that its dead easy to do.

You just need a good soldering iron (with flame adapter for heat shrink shrinking), solder, sleeving, heat shrink, good set of cutters, electrical tape, sharp scissors to cut electrical tape, molex pin removers, bite your tongue and off you go. ALWAYS remember to make a note of the pin-out of ANY cables you remove from a molex connector (or take a photo for visual reference).

I have also purchase some extra wide sleeving which I will be using to help hide some of the power supply cables which wont be needed. Next supply I buy will definitely be modular in design - MUCH better idea.

Once you have done a couple of sleeves, its quite infectious

I've started the work on all of my fans and sleeved them all. Now i'm working on doing a custom job on all of my power connectors. I'm going to remove some and add some connectors to different cables done at custom lengths. I'm a bit worried about the main ATX cable though. If anyone's done it, let me know if I should be careful to watch out for something (so far, i'm going to tag all the individual cables in the ATX cable with #'s so i know the exact order they were in).

BTW, what would you need a soldering iron for? I have one, but I haven't run across a need for it yet.

[InTheFlow]

How long does it take the AS adhesive to set firmly?

I mixed it with a bit less than 1 to 1 with Ceramique.

The ram sinks felt fairly solid, started putting on the tubing, and they still fell off.

Do you have to leave this stuff overnight to harden?

The adhesive stuff can be a bit tricky. At least it was for me. It took me about 4 tries before I had the stuff mixed just right. It is a lot less forgiving of a bad mix than say regular epoxy is.

Make sure that you mix the two equal parts of the adhesive together throughly first. I can't stress the 'equal' & 'throughly' part enough...very important! Then add your other stuff. I'm not sure what the best ratio is but you may have to reduce the amount of Ceramique you use to get a more firm bond.

You might want to experiment on an old circuit board you have lying around. That way you'll know your mix is right. Ideally, you'll want to be able to 'pop' off the sinks with just a little extra force.

And, no...it doesn't take overnight for it to get strong enough to work with. Keep in mind that the sinks will not normally have any force applied to them at all anyway so as long as they stay on when the card is upside down, you should be good.

You may also find these directions beneficial.

EDIT:

I'm a bit worried about the main ATX cable though. If anyone's done it, let me know if I should be careful to watch out for something (so far, i'm going to tag all the individual cables in the ATX cable with #'s so i know the exact order they were in).

BTW, what would you need a soldering iron for? I have one, but I haven't run across a need for it yet.

I don't remember if I had told you this on another thread before or not but if not, I don't recommend cutting your main ATX cable...instead, sleeve it creatively. Think about how you could get the same result you imagine w/o shortening it. That way you could still use the PS on a different build (or sell it) in the future.

If you are insistent on doing it though, learn on an old PS before chopping into your good one.

A soldering iron comes in handy any time you are going to reconnect wires together. For example; wiring several fans together, changing a for pin molex connection down to a 3 pin header connection, or extending the length of a pump's power cable.

[septim]

like he said it, wouldn't recommend cutting up main atx wires, best just fold and use zip ties and tuck somewhere unobtrusive...

geoffp, gud luck on experimenting with AS adhesive. me, i'll stick with superglue...

[ranker]

like he said it, wouldn't recommend cutting up main atx wires, best just fold and use zip ties and tuck somewhere unobtrusive...

geoffp, gud luck on experimenting with AS adhesive. me, i'll stick with superglue...

Yeah, I guess I'll do that then. I figure if two people are gonna save me from myself, i might as well listen.

[GeoffP]

I've started the work on all of my fans and sleeved them all. Now i'm working on doing a custom job on all of my power connectors. I'm going to remove some and add some connectors to different cables done at custom lengths. I'm a bit worried about the main ATX cable though. If anyone's done it, let me know if I should be careful to watch out for something (so far, i'm going to tag all the individual cables in the ATX cable with #'s so i know the exact order they were in).

BTW, what would you need a soldering iron for? I have one, but I haven't run across a need for it yet.

Used the soldering iron when I joined and extended the fan wires on my rad.

If you are going to modify your power cables, how are you planning on reconnecting the moles pins? Are you using new ones, if so, I would still recommend soldering as well as crimping the on.

[GeoffP]

The adhesive stuff can be a bit tricky. At least it was for me. It took me about 4 tries before I had the stuff mixed just right. It is a lot less forgiving of a bad mix than say regular epoxy is.

Make sure that you mix the two equal parts of the adhesive together throughly first. I can't stress the 'equal' & 'throughly' part enough...very important! Then add your other stuff. I'm not sure what the best ratio is but you may have to reduce the amount of Ceramique you use to get a more firm bond.

You might want to experiment on an old circuit board you have lying around. That way you'll know your mix is right. Ideally, you'll want to be able to 'pop' off the sinks with just a little extra force.

And, no...it doesn't take overnight for it to get strong enough to work with. Keep in mind that the sinks will not normally have any force applied to them at all anyway so as long as they stay on when the card is upside down, you should be good.

You may also find these directions beneficial.

Thanks mate,

I re-stuck them down last night, fitted the cards this morning, no sinks fell off. I was UBER careful though not to hit them at all

Unfortunately I have found that the tubing between the two GPU's is really flattening out.

Can you get cool sleeves for Tygon 1/2" ID 3/4" O/D tubing, or something else that will round out the tubing again?

[GeoffP]

Re-jigged loop photos:

Circled where the tubing is flattening out.

I also relocated the t-piece for the drain tube so it is at the lowest point in the loop.


Not real sure what to do about the flattening tube. The 3/4" O/D tube diameter makes it too thick for Cool Sleeves - I actually don't like the look of Cool Sleeves anyway, but I suppose it is a necessary evil.

I just need to solve this problem, then I can fill 'er up and leak test

[Grinch]

just put some coolsleeves on where the tubing is flattening out...you will be fine..

[[cTx] Nooc]

granted, coolsleeves do look like ass, but they will do the job

[GeoffP]

Can you wind Cool Sleeves on with the tubing already in place, or do you have to unclamp one end and slide it on?
Would rather not frig with the GPU's again at the moment after all the problems with ram sinks.

[[cTx] Nooc]

Can you wind Cool Sleeves on with the tubing already in place, or do you have to unclamp one end and slide it on?
Would rather not frig with the GPU's again at the moment after all the problems with ram sinks.

well sleeves can't just magically "unkink" an already kinking tube. you should use on tubing with its natural bend

[GeoffP]

K, thanks Nooc.

Just talked with PCCaseGear, the Cool Sleeves they have is not suitable for the 3/4" O/D Tygon. They used to get some that was suitable for my application, but the manufacturer no longer makes it.

They said some people have wrapped ordinary wire around the kinks

I might just go for a couple of cable ties for a temporary fix, and start leak testing. Need to get my main pc back up

[ranker]

K, thanks Nooc.

Just talked with PCCaseGear, the Cool Sleeves they have is not suitable for the 3/4" O/D Tygon. They used to get some that was suitable for my application, but the manufacturer no longer makes it.

They said some people have wrapped ordinary wire around the kinks

I might just go for a couple of cable ties for a temporary fix, and start leak testing. Need to get my main pc back up

I have the save problem with my machine. I used a mix of cool sleeve for the SLI bend and some Zip Ties for the crucial spots.

[GeoffP]

I have the save problem with my machine. I used a mix of cool sleeve for the SLI bend and some Zip Ties for the crucial spots.

What tubing r u using?

[GeoffP]

Well, this is interesting, hooked up the power supply to the pump, shorted green & black on the mobo connector, measured 9.9V on the p/supply molex, turned off p/supply, plugged in pump, turned on p/supply - nada nix nothing

Tried adjusting the flow setting from 1 to 5, still nothing.

Tried loading the p/supply with a cd drive, tested drive eject mechanism (worked fine), still nothing at the pump.

Swapped p/supply and redid all the above, still nothing.

Dunno - dead pump?

[Grinch]

can you get your hands on a PSU tester? like this?

http://www.antec.com/us/productDetails.php?ProdID=77203

I use something very similar when I am redoing/refilling my loop.

[ranker]

What tubing r u using?

I'm using a mix of Tygon 2075 and R-3603. All of which are 7/16".

[GeoffP]

can you get your hands on a PSU tester? like this?

http://www.antec.com/us/productDetails.php?ProdID=77203

I use something very similar when I am redoing/refilling my loop.

Hi Grinch,
Not sure what that would achieve.
I am using a voltmeter which shows I have 9.9V at the 4-pin molex when green & black are shorted together - open circuit on green & black gives no volts at 4-pin molex. I think that proves that both p/supplies are ok.

[GeoffP]

I'm using a mix of Tygon 2075 and R-3603. All of which are 7/16".

K, thanks.

[septim]

fitting coolsleeves on tubing before putting on barbs is easiest.
or maybe route tubing differently if possible...
for the moment try your zipties, if it don't work, then you'd really have to redo them tubes...


tap tap tap pump?