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Thread: stained tubing..

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marci
    You read wrong. If getting any buildup using nothing but distilled, you have mixed metals somewhere...

    The buildup most report is the additive separating from the distilled water, or other contaminations... distilled on it's own has nothing to separate down into that can become a buildup etc.

    Plain distilled on it's own in a quality loop (no mixedmetals) = less maintenance.

    Distilled + Additive = additive needs refreshing every xx months (differs from additive to additive) without fail to maintain anticorrosive properties.
    Non-Conductive coolants = collect ions over time becoming conductive unless refreshed every xx months also.
    that was informative
    thanks
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  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aldy402
    your absolutely right but I did have the res full. I waited about 2-3 days and it was still noisy, It drove me crazy because there was no explanation for it but ultimately i think it was just the res. It was a 5.25 acrylic. already ordered a swiftech micro res
    good choice, the sloshing isn't a problem with the micro res and a powerful pump.
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  3. #28
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    Marci is right about the staining/fogging of the R3603 even without additives. I use only distilled and 5 drops of non-alcohol Iodine (biocide) asnd still ghave the problem a few montths later. All copper for me - no metal mixing either. I am about resigned to go with the black or silver stuff recommended earlier.

    Thanks for digging into this Marci.

  4. #29
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    I thought the sound of running water was therapeutic.
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  5. #30
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    I have always suffered with severe clouding. This time was the 3rd time I cleaned the whole loop, and I used zerex this time where I usually haven't... No clouding!... odd.



  6. #31
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    Tygon 2000?

    Quote Originally Posted by Marci View Post
    OK... starting to receive info from SaintGobain's Tech Dept... and word at the moment is that R3603 Tygon is NOT the tubing we should be using... they're still working thru the datasheets to find the perfect tubing for our purposes, but they've already stated that R3603 effectively isn't it, and that with the properties of our typical coolants, yes, it will cloud/stain over time. Adding ANYTHING which contains Glycol will worsen / speed up the staining.

    Bear with me - more info as I get it...
    Tygon 2000 series looks interesting... but dang expensive $5 a foot.
    Maybe I shud bite the bullet and buy a PA120.3 and whichever Tygon formula ends up being the most compatiable with the tax return.
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  7. #32
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    do you mean tygon 2001 Plasticizer Free Tubing?
    http://www.tygon.com/Data/Element/No...00000000001498

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by _G_ View Post
    do you mean tygon 2001 Plasticizer Free Tubing?
    http://www.tygon.com/Data/Element/No...00000000001498
    The ones of interest are: Tygon 2075 or 2275 ... hydrophobic and nonpolar formulation.. sounds yummy.. gotta find me a rich sugarmommy!
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  9. #34
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    2075 & 2275 are the two being mentioned the most in discussions with SaintGobain at the moment...

  10. #35
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    Any updates Marci?

  11. #36
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    I am in hopes of some information before I place my last order for my parts. This topic popped up just as I was getting ready to order my tubing.
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  12. #37
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    2075 & 2275 are the two being mentioned the most in discussions with SaintGobain at the moment...
    Is as updated as it gets right now... have just emailed to see if they've gone any further...

  13. #38
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    Why not use the tygon beverage tubing B-44-3 It's Non-wetting surface permits thorough cleaning and complete drainage and should not absorb anything ! clouding is from the aditives penetrating the surface of the tubing ,If it dose not penetrate/absorb the dye's ect it will not cloud .
    Last edited by Subsider; 03-14-2007 at 05:40 AM.
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  14. #39
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    Why guess? Why not just use what they're recommending for use for our purposes, based on the chemical makeup of the additives that we tend to use frequently?

    Guesswork is the reason everyone's been using R3603 for the past 9 years...

  15. #40
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    This has the potential to change the tubbing issues for good, thanks Marci. Subscribed.
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  16. #41
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    Well this is what I found when I googled the name;
    "ygon® 2075 Ultra Chemical Resistant Tubing offers an unequaled combination of chemical resistance, clarity and flexibility. Tygon® Ultra Chemical Resistant Tubing is virtually unaffected by acids, bases, ketones, salts and alcohols. It's entirely plasticizer-free, eliminating fluid contamination and the premature embrittlement and cracking common with many flexible tubings. Its exceptionally smooth inner surface inhibits particulate buildup and reduces the potential for contamination. Tygon® 2075 Ultra Chemical Resistant Tubing can be sterilized by Ethylene Oxide gas or steam in an autoclave"
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  17. #42
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    Now in what sizes does it come, where can we get it and how much will it set us back?
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  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marci View Post
    Why guess? Why not just use what they're recommending for use for our purposes, based on the chemical makeup of the additives that we tend to use frequently?

    Guesswork is the reason everyone's been using R3603 for the past 9 years...
    Well im not exactly guessing here , this tubing is also used for water based inks used for printing . Ive asked a buddy that actualy use this at his work the answer i got was that the tygon beverage tubing B-44-3 dose not discolor from the water based ink and washes perfectly clean/clear . Now having said this i still not saying its the best choice or that the make up of the coolant and dyes we use wont efect the tubing diferantly than the water base inks . I am say its worth looking further into ! Im looking forward to your final analysis on this and just want to see all possible avenues explored !
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  19. #44
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    Watching this thread. I was thinking of going with the old standby, Tygon R3603, but now I'm reconsidering thanks to Marci.

  20. #45
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    I use tygon R3603, I use nothing but Distilled water in my loop, it has been now 3 months (well about 3 days shy) and there is no clouding on the new bits of tubed used and there is NO growth in my loop.
    I wonder if people having lights inside thier loops effect Growth and/or Clouding? As I have none.
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  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timmay View Post
    I use tygon R3603, I use nothing but Distilled water in my loop, it has been now 3 months (well about 3 days shy) and there is no clouding on the new bits of tubed used and there is NO growth in my loop.
    I wonder if people having lights inside thier loops effect Growth and/or Clouding? As I have none.
    I'm willing to wager people with CCFLs have more problems with algae than those with 'dark' cases. Sunlight isn't really needed for photosynthesis, right? Just any sort of light at all would seem a harbinger of algae growth to me. I think in general it's a wise idea to put a few drops of a biocide in your loop (eg- PT Nuke).

  22. #47
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    What about if someone put in a UV light... To kill the bugs???
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  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timmay View Post
    What about if someone put in a UV light... To kill the bugs???
    Haha, I don't really know what effect UV has on algae growth, although I assume it wouldn't be positive. I mean people with normal, non-UV CCFLs (blue, green, white, etc.) should look into an anti-algae solution if they haven't already.

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zeus View Post
    Now in what sizes does it come, where can we get it and how much will it set us back?
    here in the US 1/2 I.D.Tygon 2075 $ 4.31 FT
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  25. #50
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    Damn, that's ridiculously expensive. I'm going to buy 20 feet of Masterkleer and cry.

    Seriously, what do you guys think of ClearFlex, anyway?

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