EK D5 X-TOP Testing Nav's Amateur Style

[Navanod]

Hi everyone,

I know Martin tested this before, but that was a prototype and results were disappointing to say the least.

I also know my equipment and testing skills are nowhere near Martin's, but I shall try my best with what I had.

Tools
Swiftech Microres
Many Bitspower 1/2" barbs
2 Bitspower 1/2" "stubby" barbs (on flowmeter)
EK D5 X top (DUH)
Swiftech MCP655 Vario Pump
Tygon Tubings
Koolance Coolant Flowmeter INS-FM16 (yes, Koolance! )
Koolance Flowmeter Power Adapter (yes, Koolance again! )
Scythe Kaze Master (Silver)
Hose Plugs

First, pictures of the setup!



Koolance Coolant Flowmeter (Bling Bling!)


Koolance Flowmeter Power Adapter


Scythe Kaze Master


Secondly, a brief explaination of the experiment

The Koolance Coolant Flowmeter is a 3/8"ID U-shaped channel. In a loop, thats bad, but in this case, useful!

The Flowmeter Power Adapter effectively allows me to do three things.
1. Convert and output the flow meter's rpm signals into a 3rd party device "readable" rpm signal that is at the same time indicative of actual flow rate. 1rpm = 1ml/min

2. It also allows me to set the size of the tubings used. 1/4" or 3/8"-1/2" (1/2" is still considered 3/8" as the flow meter is effectively only 3/8")

3. Set the bling bling blue LEDs to ON, OFF or Sync with the RPM.
Naturally, I chose to sync

The Kaze Master is the digital display for this experiment.

The use of "stubby barbs" was because normal barb threads do not fit the flowmeter

Methods

The loop was set up first with the stock MCP655 pump as shown above.
Distilled water was poured into the loop and bubbles were allowed to escape fully before any readings were taken.
Once no visible bubbles can be seen (or heard), rpm reading was observed and the min/max recorded. Due to the nature of the Kaze Master, readings are in increments of 30rpm.

http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/ac...01_detail.html

I know the flow meter or the reader or any part of the loop may not be accurate. But by standardizing the loop and only changing the top, I've applied the famous (at least for my Prof) "All else being equal" rulez. Means any variations and errors will mostly cancel each other out.

Readings were taken at increasing speed setting on the pump, with care taken to be as consistent as possible on the 2-4 settings.

Once done, the tubings are carefully removed from the pump and plugged.
I then switch to this!



Was not too happy with the way the tubings got bent but no choice there as I cannot change the length of the tubings. Tried twisting the tubings around and was happy to see that the rpm was not affected by tubing twist.



Last but not least!




Stay tuned for the results!!