Help the new kid with his 1st water build!

[SteveRo]

This will be my first water build (long over due actually).
This will go to cool an open case i7 965 (tech station).
My configuration is in my signature.
My (mild) preference for components and questions follow.
Thank you very much in advance for all your help!

[Shlomo]

Fine components, go with 7/16" ID tubing over 1/2" barbs, simple distilled water for coolant with some sort of biocide, unless you want some color. Then go distilled with some pentosin, or some other coolant in a 90% distilled to 10% coolant ratio

[SteveRo]

Excellent - thanks for all the info - what about the nonconductive fluids?

[aspire.comptech]

1/2" i.d. tubing is perfectly fine for his build especially since it's an open tech station and doesn't have any space limitations.

I only recommend worm drive clamps, especially in an open setup where a tube could get snagged easily.

There is no such thing is a practical non-conductive coolant. Everything marketed to water coolers as such is 100% bullshart.

Go for straight distilled water with a silver kill-coil in it.

[SteveRo]

much thanks aspire - 1/2 inch with worm drive clamps - I will need to look up "silver kill-coil" don't know what that is.

[SteveRo]

found it - Silver kill-coil -

[aspire.comptech]

found it - Silver kill-coil -

Thats the one. You put it inside your tubing and the silver it's made out of kills any microbes or stuff trying to grow in your loop.

[OggeOJ]

Excellent - thanks for all the info - what about the nonconductive fluids?

If you get coolant in your computer, you have far more problems than just electrical conductivity. + the fact that distilled water and biocide is far more cheap and performs just as good with a difference of +-1 degree.

Otherwise good components and all.

[SNiiPE_DoGG]

Primochill PRO LRT tubing is what you should get instead of tygon

[aspire.comptech]

If you get coolant in your computer, you have far more problems than just electrical conductivity. + the fact that distilled water and biocide is far more cheap and performs just as good with a difference of +-1 degree.

Otherwise good components and all.

Pure Distilled water will outperform all other fluids save for some of the exotics that 3M makes but cost hundreds to fill a loop.

[NaeKuh]

can i tweek your build?

Swiftech MCP-355
XSPC Res/Top

You only have 2 fans for a quad rad?

Chug the D5 and mcres out of there... (the combo setup above wipes the D5 in head pressure)

Loop order:

Pump ->Cpu ->rad -> pump.


The pump is a res/combo pump.


GTZ is an accelerator class block, using injectors, you need head pressure.

Tubing: 7/16ID 5/8 OD Masterkleer. Dont bother with tygon, if this is your first loop, trust me it wont be up long enough for you to enjoy tygon.
(meaning most first build noobies love to tweek there build, so you will tear it down in 2-4 weeks to tweek it again) <-- been there, and seen it a lot myself.

Clamps: using 1/2OD barbs, zipties dominate on the tubing above..



Trust me on the zipties with that tubing. I run one of the highest pressure systems on this forum, and havent had problems yet.

Id save the more expensive tubing once you decided on your final project and your not gonna touch it for a while. When you buy tubing at 49 cents per foot vs. 3 dollars a foot, you'll understand why i recomend masterkleer when your a first time builder..

[SteveRo]

can i tweek your build?

Swiftech MCP-355
XSPC Res/Top

You only have 2 fans for a quad rad?

Chug the D5 and mcres out of there... (the combo setup above wipes the D5 in head pressure)

Loop order:

Pump ->Cpu ->rad -> pump.


The pump is a res/combo pump.


GTZ is an accelerator class block, using injectors, you need head pressure.

Tubing: 7/16ID 5/8 OD Masterkleer. Dont bother with tygon, if this is your first loop, trust me it wont be up long enough for you to enjoy tygon.
(meaning most first build noobies love to tweek there build, so you will tear it down in 2-4 weeks to tweek it again) <-- been there, and seen it a lot myself.

Clamps: using 1/2OD barbs, zipties dominate on the tubing above..



Trust me on the zipties with that tubing. I run one of the highest pressure systems on this forum, and havent had problems yet.

Thanks so much for the good input - ES is the best!

I already have 2 other ultra kaze that I will take off the noctua for 4x120's

Zip ties would certainly be easy - question tho - I am running an open case. Do I need to worry about snagging one with resulting disaster.

I will need to read up on this combo res/pump

[NaeKuh]

Thanks so much for the good input - ES is the best!

I already have 2 other ultra kaze that I will take off the nochua for 4x120's

Zip ties would certainly be easy - question tho - I am running an open case. Do I need to worry about snagging one with resulting disaster.

I will need to read up on this combo res/pump

snagging one?

i wouldnt recomend you picking up your computer from a tubing section..

but that tubing and barb combo, you really dont need any zipties... the zipties is more reinforcement... (i still highly recomend it tho)

As for the TOP, on martin's test, it was the top.

[SteveRo]

snagging one?

i wouldnt recomend you picking up your computer from a tubing section..

but that tubing and barb combo, you really dont need any zipties... the zipties is more reinforcement... (i still highly recomend it tho)

As for the TOP, on martin's test, it was the top.

Regarding the Swiftech MCP 355 and XSPC - Acrylic Reservoir combo - is there a picture of how these attach? I have seen pictures of them together - pretty neat - but I am trying to figure out how they join. Lastly - MCP 335 docts say it has 3/8" barb fittings - how does that work with 7/16 ID, 5/8 OD tubing?

[Conumdrum]

The added pump top for the MCP 355 we are talking about has threaded holes for barbs. So you can put whatever size barbs you want, usually 1/2" OD barbs made for 1/2ID or 7/16ID hose. The barbs are G1/4 thread. The standard barb thread for WC stuff.

Edit: BTW, you can go with MUCH quieter fans on the rad, you won't need those loud ones anymore.

[SteveRo]

regarding the ultra kaze fans - yes, they are loud but as always, i was going to use a fan controller to turn them down to a tolerable db level.

[SNiiPE_DoGG]

I dont see the obsession with ultra kaze's around here, even on a controller they aren't great fans..... better off with a good 25mm or a panaflo for controller use

[SteveRo]

I dont see the obsession with ultra kaze's around here, even on a controller they aren't great fans..... better off with a good 25mm or a panaflo for controller use

The ultra kaze are pretty reasonably priced and available at many retailers - usually < 10$. Panaflo has great reputation, seems like availability is not as good and price?

[warriorpoet]

The ultra kaze are pretty reasonably priced and available at many retailers - usually < 10$. Panaflo has great reputation, seems like availability is not as good and price?

If you're going for pressure the Ultra Kazes are great, if you want reasonable acoustics, the S-Flex series, Kama Flex series or Yate Loon 12SLs (~1200-1350 RM on a controller) are superior. The maximum RPM you want for a quiet setup is around 800-1000 RPM.

Panaflo are incredibly hit-and miss in retail, so be careful.

I usually buy my fans at Performance-PCs because they come pre-sleeved.

[SteveRo]

Much thanks to everyone that helped me with my build. I am most pleased with the results.
965 extreme at full load and max vcore (1.55v as specified by intel) has dropped from 95-100C (throttles at 100C) down to 69C (4.43 max oc hyperthreading off) to 77C (4.24 max oc HT on).
Additional info in my signature links - pics to follow -

[exe163]

Fine components, go with 7/16" ID tubing over 1/2" barbs, simple distilled water for coolant with some sort of biocide, unless you want some color. Then go distilled with some pentosin, or some other coolant in a 90% distilled to 10% coolant ratio

I don't know about you but I find it a pain in the ass trying to get 7/16 masterkleer over plastic swifty 1/2" barbs.

[Eddie3dfx]

i7 runs that hot? Holy crap!

[Deezle]

I don't know about you but I find it a pain in the ass trying to get 7/16 masterkleer over plastic swifty 1/2" barbs.

Try 3/8 tygon over 1/2" fatboy barbs

I don't see 1/2 having any advantage over 3/8 or 7/16 tubing, you're not gaining any performance and sacrificing some leak protection.

[warriorpoet]

Try 3/8 tygon over 1/2" fatboy barbs

I don't see 1/2 having any advantage over 3/8 or 7/16 tubing, you're not gaining any performance and sacrificing some leak protection.

I'll be feeling that particular pain next week

[Groveling_Wyrm]

I don't know about you but I find it a pain in the ass trying to get 7/16 masterkleer over plastic swifty 1/2" barbs.

Using a lubricant that is water soluble, such as KY jelly, makes it a lot easier to get the 7/16" hose on the 1/2" barbs.

Another method is to put the end of the tube in boiling water for a bit then slide it on the barb.

It's a lot easier to deal with than you would think....