He will have to run a somewhat dilute glycol solution. I would recommend Propylene Glycol just because of its low toxicity and better heat transfer capabilities than ethylene.
20% or higher glycol in water. 20% is still pretty close to water's Cp. Its a little better than ethylene. ~.96 vs ~.91 You can get it at Tractor Supply, but you'll need to use a corrosion inhibitor with it. If your loop uses all copper its probably not necessary; but it also retards the rate of the breakdown of the glycol. Not like it happens over night, but still....
As far as insulation goes, it depends on your temps and typical humidity inside. Given your temperatures, the water tubes will probably be fine with 3/8" wall insulation. Make sure you size it appropriately for the outside diameter of your tubing. For 0C and above applications with <50% RH, you don't need to use thick walls.
For socket insulation, I am less experienced. Although, eraser material is somewhat dense compared to insulation materials and will transmit heat moreso than the insulation. Though, its less messy than trying to use a foam insulation (polyurethane), I don't like the idea of using it for a 24/7 rig. I'm sure people have, I just don't like the idea.
Dielectric grease is what I would use for any gap coverage in your socket. Using any type of petroleum grease is not a good idea on silicone or plastics. Dielectric grease is designed to protect electrical connections from things like moisture; that is why you use it on your spark plug wire connections and coils in your car; not to mention battery connections. It prevents corrosion of the surfaces as well. Petroleum makes a snack out of it in the long term. There's no excuse not to use D.G. in my book.
I would personally favor the usage of foam insulation at the lowest level. Then I'd be using the Expanded Elastomeric insulation sheets to cover the rest. I'd use thicker wall for the pads just to be save and use a proper adhesive to join the layers. I would build a little "bowl of sorts and fill it well with the P.U. foam. There are different grades of the stuff. It has excellent insulation properties. You just have to make sure you fill all gaps.
That's just one way to do it though. I am sure others have different ideas.
However, I would consider Dielectric Grease MANDATORY. I would not use less than 3/8" wall insulation on the tubing. Finally, on the back side of the motherboard, an insulation pad with a low power pad heater just for safety. It isn't really necessary to use a heater if you have insulated well and don't get too cold, but its good insurance.
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