Surethe ones I have are cellphone ( SGSII ) taken though
I'm waiting for my DSLR to charge.
Edit: SLR is on the job
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Surethe ones I have are cellphone ( SGSII ) taken though
I'm waiting for my DSLR to charge.
Edit: SLR is on the job
![]()
Last edited by st0ned; 06-16-2012 at 01:32 PM.
Interesting, looks like they made a special extra deep cut right in the center of the microchannels.
Well I was saving some pics for the review :P But as you guys ask
3 different thicknesses
2 different kind of injection forms, the thiner is also the wider
The thicker is the one coming by default, though I'll be testing the thiner ( and wider ) one 1st as is the on that gives you less bow as I am testing without IHS, as this was the config suggested by EK.
Could you please post picture with jet plate on base? I'm interested how much of the channels is covered by the jet plate. (how long is water forced to flow through channels). Thanks.
Are these produced via wire EM or a slitting saw? Anyone know the width of the fins/gaps?
EDIT: In the 4 pics above, with the tops and blocks. Did you rotate one of them accidentally? O-ring doesn't look like it matches up on the non-acrylic one. That would make the flow lateral instead of vertical no?
Last edited by n00b 0f l337; 06-16-2012 at 02:27 PM.
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If you have a cooling question or concern feel free to contact me.
Well I've the block mounted allready, although I'll leave some pics that may bring some light on that subject.
Sorry I can't help with that I don't have the equipment to mesure them. A normal A4 paper edge will fit but barely.
PICS:
As for the looks, tbh after having it mounted I don't find it bad at all, but that might be just me.
Honestly if they got rid of the circles and offered it in clear acrylic it would be a fantastic looking block.
Last edited by lowfat; 06-17-2012 at 04:31 PM.
The mounting is not the default offered by EK. I'm using my own mounting system on all blocks I test. Also default EK mounting wouldn't fit because I'm direct die cooling and EK screws have "stoppers".
Thank you for the details!
Edit:
In the meantime I read the installation manual on EKīs website. Itīs also explaining some details. Well done. Very nice package with very nice screwing.
@Eddy/tiborr
Just another Plexi-top now (non-CSQ) and you got me once again![]()
Last edited by scamps; 06-17-2012 at 12:15 AM.
0.3mm width, based on below.
Bitspower new cpu waterblock has 33 0.5mm width channels in same area side by side as EK supremecy would have 55 (actually EK supremecy only has 48 channels but have to add 7 to get exact total width of BP 33 channels. (use DAZMODE review video which has exact side by side of both EK supremecy and bitspower and blow it up). So 33/55 x 0.5m = 0.3mm width channels. That assumes width of channels same size as fins, but 1 fin +1 channel = 0.6mm on EK supremecy, if Bitspower published waterblock specs are correct.
EDIT: I wish all manufacturers published specs, ie width of channels/fins and depth channels/height fins (or pins if crosscut). Just from that alone you can get an idea if the block will compete with the best ones. I was going to buy the bitspower, until I read the 0.5mm channels which isnt going to have the surface area to beat EK suphf or Swiftech HD, though dont know height fins. I bought the DT Sniper instead, and tested here, but fins again wider and ? not as tall, hence didnt test as well as Suphf on my rig. Though I much prefer the aesthetics of DT Sniper.
I wonder why all manufactures dont use at least same pin/fin surface area (via fin/pin height and fin/pin number) as best performers like Swiftech HD and EK suphf (or maybe now supremecy). I assume issue is cost? To have deeper channels/taller fins requires more copper, but is milling thinner channels more difficult/costly?
If all blocks start out with at least same surface area as best performers (using less isnt going to get you the crown): ie, base size + same height fins/pins + same number channels ie using 0.3mm or smaller, then any block should compete at highest end, and possibly take crown with best jet plate...but seems as though many aiming for bang for buck ie keeping cost down and just being a degree or 2 from leaders.
I wish more would aim for highest end, to allow for more aesthetic choices at higher end.
Last edited by rge; 06-17-2012 at 06:35 AM.
* My Case Labs STH10 Build Log *
Computer System:
CPU = Intel i7 3770K
MOBO = Asus Maximus V Extreme
GPU = EVGA GeForce GTX 480 @ 880MHz|1760MHz|4200MHz @ 1.125v
RAM = 8GB Dominator GT's
SSD = Samsung 830 Series 256GB
PSU = SeaSonic X-1250W
SC = X-Fi Fatality Pro
CASE = Case Labs STH10
LCD = NEC MultiSync 1970GX 19"
OS = Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit
Watercooling System:
CPU = EK Supremacy Nickel+Acetal
GPU = EK FC-480 GTX Nickel+Acetal
MB = EK-FB Asus M5E Nickel+Acetal
RES = EK-RES X3 250
PUMP = Dual Koolance PMP-450's w/ EK-D5 Dual Top CSQ
RAD = Dual HWLabs SR-1 560's w/Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm Fans
LIQUID = Distilled Water w/Petra's Pure Silver Killcoil
GPU: 4-Way SLI GTX Titan's (1202 MHz Core / 3724 MHz Mem) with EK water blocks and back-plates
CPU: 3960X - 5.2 GHz with Koolance 380i water block
MB: ASUS Rampage IV Extreme with EK full board water block
RAM: 16 GB 2400 MHz Team Group with Bitspower water blocks
DISPLAY: 3x 120Hz Portrait Perfect Motion Clarity 2D Lightboost Surround
SOUND: Asus Xonar Essence -One- USB DAC/AMP
PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX1500
SSD: Raid 0 - Samsung 840 Pro's
BUILD THREAD: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1751610
how are the temps?
Well guys just to say sorry because the review got a bit delayed ( I should have it ready friday the latest ) because I had to change test methadology ( I hope you like the new one better). I've the Supremacy tested allready but I still need to test the Supreme to compare the Supremacy with.
Just to say I'm impressed with the TIM pattern I can take out of this block, impressive !
oh and btw if you like what I'm doing pls help me out
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I've been an EK customer for a long time. I'm currently using two EK GPU Blocks and a CPU block. I was quite startled to see these new top designs on all the new blocks. They do not look good at all. I have to admit that I've bought EK in the past mostly because I liked the design. The performance and price has always been very good too but it was the design that was most important to me as most blocks are within a few degrees of each other anyway.
With that said I can't see myself buying any EK block with this circle imprint design. It does not look good at all. I'm a loyal customer and I want to give you my money again so please return back to the EK designs that were classy and minimal.
Last edited by CrazyNutz; 06-20-2012 at 06:13 AM.
Sandy Bridge 2500k @ 4.5ghz 1.28v | MSI p67a-gd65 B3 Mobo | Samsung ddr3 8gb |
Swiftech apogee drive II | Coolgate 120| GTX660ti w/heat killer gpu x| Seasonic x650 PSU
QX9650 @ 4ghz | P5K-E/WIFI-AP Mobo | Hyperx ddr2 1066 4gb | EVGA GTX560ti 448 core FTW @ 900mhz | OCZ 700w Modular PSU |
DD MC-TDX CPU block | DD Maze5 GPU block | Black Ice Xtreme II 240 Rad | Laing D5 Pump
Interesting, but I hope they make an all clear acrylic top w/o circles.
Good datas and great pics.
Proud owner of a Lian Li A05NB
Hardware | Intel Core i5 2500K @ 4,2 GHz | ASUS Maximus IV Gene | XFX Radeon HD6970 XXX | Corsair AX 750 | Intel X25-M 80GB Gen.2 | Western Digital Black 2x1TB |
Watercooling | EKWB Supreme HF Cu Nickel | EKWB FC-6970 Ni+Ac w/ black backplate | Swiftech MCP355 w/ Bitspower DDC Ultra Tank | TFC Xchanger 240 w/ pull Scythe GT AP-15 | Tygon R-3603 3/8ID, 1/2OD w/ Bitspower fittings and rotary adapters |
Running Windows 7 Ultmate
god the new EK design is so awful
Hmm, i wonder what would be best ways to get rid of circles? Probably easiest - slap some sticker on top (circles might show a bit through, as they seem recessed and stickers are flexible thing). Probably hardest - to make whole replacement top - especially if from metal. Hmm, or some milling down surface with circles a bit (but will probably make top even less transparent)? Or some thin metallic plate instead of sticker?
If there were custom plexi color tops or custom plated HFs by few shops, maybe something from above can be done by them for Supreme as well, if EK is not willing to make replacement top by itself out of principle?
Step 1). Mill it down
Step 2). Use different grits of sandpaper (i.e. 400 to 2000 grit)
Step 3) Polish with polishing compound, or flame polish
Sandy Bridge 2500k @ 4.5ghz 1.28v | MSI p67a-gd65 B3 Mobo | Samsung ddr3 8gb |
Swiftech apogee drive II | Coolgate 120| GTX660ti w/heat killer gpu x| Seasonic x650 PSU
QX9650 @ 4ghz | P5K-E/WIFI-AP Mobo | Hyperx ddr2 1066 4gb | EVGA GTX560ti 448 core FTW @ 900mhz | OCZ 700w Modular PSU |
DD MC-TDX CPU block | DD Maze5 GPU block | Black Ice Xtreme II 240 Rad | Laing D5 Pump
I tend more to thin metallic plate on top of top - as it's hard to judge how deep those decorative circles are and if milling down won't lessen rigidity of top - thus maybe worsen a bit pressure from top>jetplate>base || thermal contact quality with cpu IHS. Also seems as easy and cheaply to make / easy & not time consuming to use/mount (compared to long & tedious polishing after milling down). Heck, that plate might be even made to have etched in EK's logo in HF fashion![]()
IMHO there is no problem with circles on CPU block... slap on couple 3/4 od compressions, tubing, put this into case and one never see that circles... but one will always remember 'bout it![]()
Noticed images of new full copper and full nickel supremacies. Unfortunately out of luck - these will come with circles too.
Tyborrr: is there any chance for you guys to make optional for extra price (at least acetal) replacement top without those to not have to think out ways to mill circles off by ourselves? Or masking plate as in my previous post? Imho that should make good enough compromise among customer wishes and interests of EK.
P.S.
Are new EK full gpu covers compatible with old SLI bridges?
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