Got my Toshiba chip PCBs in yesterday, will be doing a pair of 3.2s with them when I get enough time to resolder them. Also have some trimmers inbound to make them adjustable. The presoldered PCBs look great, and I can't wait to get my loop back together with them in it.
Sweet! Please keep us updated with how it goes. Good-luck!Originally Posted by Kayin
What are these trimmers you speak of, are they to tap into the PWM functionality of the PCB?
No, I have blue impeller DDCs, and I need them to keep it from frying itself until I get a pair of the Koolance heatsinks for them. The mod has been detailed earlier in this thread.
The Toshiba PCBs are the only ones that will work with newer DDCs.
I have the latest(white) version of DIY PCB mod for Laing.
The question is: Do I have to solder LEDs?
What resistor should I solder to get VSP 3V??
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sorry to dig up an old thread, i just needed some advice. I have a blue pump. It's a mcp355, with tachometer, but the impeler is blue. I thought it was purple. I ordered the repair kit, and was wondering if anyone knew what itmeant when he said it requires a mod to solder two extra wires, in the direction of the pump.
I am an idiot when it comes to this stuff.
I would rather just pay someone to do it for me, at least i can't blow the house up
That sounds like it's referring to the 18w to 36w mod you can do on the DDC3.2s. A quick search for DDC MOD should reveal more information.
HTH
J
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No, I am trying to replace the burned out pcb with one i got from Ebay, that was discussed earlier in this thread.
This has probably been all ready covered but i would like to ask it anyway . Can this board 10W or 18W be soldered on with the IC towards the back/bottom of the pump ?
I read here that it can but i was wondering if there are any problems with doing it that way . I am guessing that it is ok but i am just not sure .I am guessing again that most , if not all of the heat comes from the coils but i would like to put a heatsink on the IC to protect it.
thanks
I believe he means you need to solder on a piece of wire for each lead so that they will reach the solder points on the PCB.sorry to dig up an old thread, i just needed some advice. I have a blue pump. It's a mcp355, with tachometer, but the impeler is blue. I thought it was purple. I ordered the repair kit, and was wondering if anyone knew what itmeant when he said it requires a mod to solder two extra wires, in the direction of the pump.
I am an idiot when it comes to this stuff.
I would rather just pay someone to do it for me, at least i can't blow the house up
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This does not make sense to me. The cover can go on any way you want, so I guess the answer is yes. Do you even have a pump? If so, have you even looked at it and taken the top off?
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Cooling: Thermochill PA120.2 GT AP15 in push, DC3.25/XSPC Res top, Apogee Xt Extreme, XSPC Razor, Coolgate CG-240 GT AP15 in push/pull, MCP35X.
Yes i have 3 of the DIYINHK DDC T1 with kit and i want to put the new Board , not the cover , on with the IC towards the back of the pump .
In other words Not facing the pump . so that i can put a heatsink on the IC
http://www.dazmode.com/_forum/viewto...7851966bab6b72
Last edited by Fluxcore; 02-09-2012 at 05:32 PM.
Hey Flux, good work, i have a question....
Do the wires stick up through holes? I have a PCB and 2 pumps coming, but wanted to get a second pcb, and 2 dead pumps, giving me 4 pumps.
I see that the white pcb has holes, but not 12 holes. Do the wires just kind of reach up and over to reach the contact?
I just folded them over from the outside of the board. The holes are just for the multilayer board so it can make contact with the other layers.
the wires are just long eneff so be careful not to break them.
Got the pcb in today. Ready to start.
couple questions:
Where do the LED's go?
What is this little white piece?
white.jpg
Last edited by Slave1974; 02-21-2012 at 02:38 PM.
Yoy see the 2 holes above the DCC on the board ?
Thats ware the led's go . There are 4 sets of holes .
As for the white thing , mine never came with that .
So I have no idea what it is .
so, just stick the ends on top of those holes, put them through them? Does it matter which hole the short end goes through?
Oh, what does the Pin29, vsp and vref do?
Last edited by Slave1974; 02-21-2012 at 03:33 PM.
got both pumps resurected. I ran into an issue. When I installed the pot on one pump, fired it up, the pump doesn't spin. I looked into the pump (had xspx rest top installed so I could see it), the impeller is just going back and forth. It is clicking, but not spinning.
Before I installed the pot, it spun well. I desoldered it, took it apart, ordered a second PCB.
I wonder if I didn't damage the connection to the controller when I cut the bridge. Maybe it got wet and damaged the motor? Anyone?
Also, does anyone have any idea where these LED's go?
Why you dont ask DIYINHK? Probably you need to know the led polarity(i think short leg is -)i see you have from 2 holes in your 4 corners...you have 4 leds right?The white thing is resistors.
Last edited by chaotic; 03-01-2012 at 01:22 PM.
混沌とした アンモラル
Sorry for pulling up an old thread.
I have This DDC pump:
Does anyone know if the New white PCB kit will work with it? i would very much like to bring life back to the poor thing.
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Why not?Do it!
混沌とした アンモラル
yeah bro either the sanyo or the toshiba will work
Typically when the click-click shifting impeller event happens, it's due to one or more of the coil leads not making good contact or became broken. As for the POT, that could be culprit too. Check both.
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Speaking of bumps, anyone know where to buy a cheap DDC? I can't find them for under MSRP of a new one, even for DDC-1s. Ebay has failed me.
Kayin weve been getting them from various sites other than the bay. How ever we've only had limited success with these PCBs, 50/50. Mahem i getting to old to solder any more lol.
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I suggest PMing the man who posted directly above your post.
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