"V2" Koolance *Dual D-5* Bay Reservoir! (RP-452X2)

[Phatboy69]

The new quicker way to flush, fill, bleed the system.. Makes the bleeding of the Koolance 452X2 sooooo much easier too. Just fill er up and leave it! When done, tip bottle upside down below the fill port and let most excess water flow down. Have cloth handy to catch last few drops remove fitting and plug... Done!!!

[dotslasher]

I have a problem with my new RP-452x2 res.

I'm currently using the following stuff:

EK-Multioption X2 250 res
EK-D5 X-TOP rev.2 for my D5 pump
EK-Supreme HF for my I7
EK-FC5870 V2 for my ATI 5870
XSPC RX360 rad.

With the current setup I have no issues whatsoever.
I'm having a great flowrate, cool temps and a silent system.

But building in the pump and res separately left some room for improvement.
So I was looking for a bay res that could also fit the pump.

After re-building my system with the koolance bay-res I started filling it.
I instantly noticed that eventhough I correctly used the P2 side (it came pre-configured to be used with the P2 side - P1 in and outs were blocked) that when I fired up the pump I could see no water flowing out of the res.

The pump was making a horrible loud sound.
The res was filled up completely, but the pump was drawing air.
I shook the res for a bit, tilted it and then I saw some water dripping into the tubes.

Even though I kept topping up the res, the waterlevel would not drop very fast. No matter which setting I had the pump on.
It still made a loud horrible air gushing sound when it tried to work.

After several hours trying to get the loop filled properly (a very slow process with this res) I still would not get a decent flow. There were so many pockets of air and air bubbles in the loop, it wasn't even funny.
No matter how hard I tried, I could not get the loop filled and bled properly.

I even tried both sides of the tanks (using the separator and without it). Same results. Filling+Bleeding was not working.

I then thought, maybe the loop is too long, but even shortening did not work.
What I also noticed is that the water coming back in the res was just slowly coming in, instead of rushing back in with force.

I can't imagine my pump not being strong enough to power my loop. Or would another pump solve the issues I described above?


I also thought, well maybe I killed my pump when I cleaned it rebuilding the loop so I went back to the previous setup and just took out the Koolance res and put back in my EK tube res.

The results were astonishing: I filled my loop in mere minutes.
Bleeding it was a piece of cake, the biggest bubbles were soon gone and the small ones are now gone as well after a few hours.

I could clearly see the water rushing through my tubes into the res.

So it wasn't the pump's fault, nor the loop's length since I kept everything as it was when I installed the koolance res.

Did I do something wrong with the koolance res?

I hate to have spent 130 euro on this res and not being able to use it.

[NaeKuh]

like we all said, the res has problems purging air once stuck in the impeller.

you need to pulse it, meaning turn it on and off, so u can push water though the loop and make sure your res is full.

This is why we say add a tline.

But that loud noise ur hearing is air bubbles being trapped in the impeller.

[Phatboy69]

@dotslasher: I recommend using the left res for single pump which means putting the pump on the right side when looking at it from the front.

The pump needs water above the intake port to generate enough flow(prime the pump). The intake port is up very high on the right side and hence it is difficult to prime the pump and also to bleed air from the loop. My picture above might seem like a bit of a joke, but having the res constantly full from the bottle made priming and bleeding really simple.

Perhaps you could use your old res in a similiar fashion to provide a higher filling point. Fill the old external res to keep the 452x2 filled to the top. Then when done after a few hours of bleeding, bring the external res down below the 452x2 fill port to drain the excess water, remove the fitting and plug the fill port.

[[XC] Synthetickiller]

@dotslasher: I recommend using the left res for single pump which means putting the pump on the right side when looking at it from the front.

The pump needs water above the intake port to generate enough flow(prime the pump). The intake port is up very high on the right side and hence it is difficult to prime the pump and also to bleed air from the loop. My picture above might seem like a bit of a joke, but having the res constantly full from the bottle made priming and bleeding really simple.

Perhaps you could use your old res in a similiar fashion to provide a higher filling point. Fill the old external res to keep the 452x2 filled to the top. Then when done after a few hours of bleeding, bring the external res down below the 452x2 fill port to drain the excess water, remove the fitting and plug the fill port.

Thank you for this info.

I'll probably be ordering one of these bad boys next week for a single loop w/ only 1 pump.

You just saved me a good 3+ hours for tinkering.

EDIT:

The new quicker way to flush, fill, bleed the system.. Makes the bleeding of the Koolance 452X2 sooooo much easier too. Just fill er up and leave it! When done, tip bottle upside down below the fill port and let most excess water flow down. Have cloth handy to catch last few drops remove fitting and plug... Done!!!

So if you are starting dry, you can just fill a large container like that and use it as a fill/bleed port till there's no bubbles?


I'd really like to get this res, but after re-reading the last few pages, I'm second guessing it.

For a loop w/ 1 pump, 1 res, 1 cpu block (simple, I know), will this be a loop I can leave alone besides toping it off now and again?
(I plan on using both portions of the res.)

[Phatboy69]

Res shouldnt need topping off. I have had mine for a couple months and drained and filled twice now for upgrades to my system. In between it didnt need any work and I wouldnt expect it to either. Its a great product.

[Koolance]

If you're having issues with air in the upper reservoir, our new bleed pipe kit should make things easier. If you already have an RP-402X2 or RP-452X2 (original or revision 1.1), we're sending the kit for free through August! See here for details. Revision 1.2 reservoirs on our website now include this component.

Some pics:





The new acrylic piece links the inlet and outlet together in the upper reservoir, while providing a new copper pipe inlet from the lower tank area. There is a small bleed hole in front of the inlet through the acrylic. I've tried several units now and all have bled in about 5-7 minutes with the pump on max. You should still try to fill the reservoir as full as possible, so tipping the unit so the fill port is high while filling will help. But as the manual for the bleed pipe kit will illustrate, it's fine if there's some air left.

Tim

[Phatboy69]

If you're having issues with air in the upper reservoir, our new bleed pipe kit should make things easier. If you already have an RP-402X2 or RP-452X2 (original or revision 1.1), we're sending the kit for free through August! See here for details. Revision 1.2 reservoirs on our website now include this component.

Some pics:





The new acrylic piece links the inlet and outlet together in the upper reservoir, while providing a new copper pipe inlet from the lower tank area. There is a small bleed hole in front of the inlet through the acrylic. I've tried several units now and all have bled in about 5-7 minutes with the pump on max. You should still try to fill the reservoir as full as possible, so tipping the unit so the fill port is high while filling will help. But as the manual for the bleed pipe kit will illustrate, it's fine if there's some air left.

Tim

Does this effectively replace the lower left serial link acrylic or can they be used together? If it replaces the left acrylic serial link does that mean the rear serial link needs to be moved to the top?

[SkItZo]

Awesome. Cant wait to receive it Great customer service considering you are sending them out free etc.

[Martinm210]

Nice work!!

That should make the right side reservoir much better. Also Kudos on the free upgrade support!

[Expat GriZ]

Tim, will there be a bleed kit for the original 450X2? It has proven to be a b*gger to bleed as well.

[Koolance]

Does this effectively replace the lower left serial link acrylic or can they be used together? If it replaces the left acrylic serial link does that mean the rear serial link needs to be moved to the top?

The serial acrylic piece was originally designed to fit the lower reservoir, so it wouldn't conflict with the bleed pipe if used that way. The serial connector on the back should also go on the bottom inlet/outlet. I think the only reason some customers were using the serial pipe on top was for bleeding reasons, so the new pipe kit should fix that.

Tim, will there be a bleed kit for the original 450X2? It has proven to be a b*gger to bleed as well.

This won't fit the RP-450X2, which has a very different configuration. I've not heard of bleeding issues with that product, though. Both pump inlets/outlets are in the center of the reservoir and it's easy to fill well above them.

Tim

[Phatboy69]

The serial acrylic piece was originally designed to fit the lower reservoir, so it wouldn't conflict with the bleed pipe if used that way. The serial connector on the back should also go on the bottom inlet/outlet. I think the only reason some customers were using the serial pipe on top was for bleeding reasons, so the new pipe kit should fix that.



This won't fit the RP-450X2, which has a very different configuration. I've not heard of bleeding issues with that product, though. Both pump inlets/outlets are in the center of the reservoir and it's easy to fill well above them.

Tim

Im a little bit confused by how the new system works.
From what I can see the new acrylic piece does what my original pickup mod did but it also recirculates most of the water without it going into the res and the small hole at the return port is design to just somehow catch air in the res?

If you have D5s in series with the original serial link in the lower left and the new bleed kit in the right how does more water get into the loop when you've almost created a closed loop with the new bleed kit?

I just want to make sure its safe to run both acrylic serial links at the same time as I just cant see how water flows back into the res with the new bleed kit looking virtually like another serial link, be it with a small air capture hole and inlet tube.

[NaeKuh]

Im a little bit confused by how the new system works.
From what I can see the new acrylic piece does what my original pickup mod did but it also recirculates most of the water without it going into the res and the small hole at the return port is design to just somehow catch air in the res?

Thats a good question.

You would have to remove the serial plug and use both bays to make use of this.

Otherwise the return has nowhere to feed back into except the left chamber.

[Koolance]

Im a little bit confused by how the new system works.

You can join the reservoirs or leave them separate. It shouldn't matter. Let's keep the example that you're using two pumps in series with the 180º pipe connector and this new bleed pipe. The bleed pipe is in the upper reservoir, and the serial acrylic piece is in the lower reservoir (with external pipe on the bottom joining P2/Out->P1/In).

The inlet on back is then P2/In. Flow goes into the top reservoir and back out that same reservoir (P2/Out on back). Then it hits the 180º pipe, and gets sent back in through P1/In. Coolant then enters the lower reservoir, and gets suctioned via the serial acrylic piece back out (P1/Out on back).

The bleed pipe doesn't isolate the upper reservoir inlet/outlets from one another (or the reservoir itself). I also had some doubts when we reached this design since there's still a direct path in the acrylic between the inlet and outlet. It's not the same as attaching a nozzle and hose to one of the openings. But when I cycled a few reservoirs at slightly different coolant levels, they both got quiet right around the 5-min mark.

Unlike the serial connector acrylic piece, the bleed pipe's acrylic isn't sealed by o-ring against the tank wall. When you have air coming in from the top opening, it prefers to float up or get pushed through the small bleed hole in the acrylic (towards the front window). The lower opening going into the pump doesn't recirculate much of this air, so it results in a shorter bleed time.

Tim

[NaeKuh]

lol.. i think i need to see one in person.. :P

But both of my units work great after i bleed them, so do i really want to tear apart my loops?

[[XC] Synthetickiller]

lol.. i think i need to see one in person.. :P

But both of my units work great after i bleed them, so do i really want to tear apart my loops?

+1

Almost all of my bubbles are out (would be 100% gone if I didn't RMA my board). I'd love to get a motherboard block, but tearing this build down scares me lol. Bleeding is just a tedious test of will.

[GhostRiderZG]

Koolance ROCKS! Not bad for a coastie! lol

[Scubar]

Will be receiving my Bleed kit soon hopefully cant wait to see how it works with the serial connector and 180 pipe on the bottom.

[petecario]

Can someone please tell which barbed fittings to use to fill this reservoir up via the front fill ports? I tried some Bitspower ones i had here but they don't screw in all the way, they are too wide to go in all the way and they leak as the o-ring doesn't compress. Anyone know what barbs will screw in all the way for a water tight seal?

[dragonhunter]

Can someone please tell which barbed fittings to use to fill this reservoir up via the front fill ports? I tried some Bitspower ones i had here but they don't screw in all the way, they are too wide to go in all the way and they leak as the o-ring doesn't compress. Anyone know what barbs will screw in all the way for a water tight seal?

I used a beat-up koolance 45 degree barb and it worked perfectly.

[Martinm210]

I used Danger Den/BP fatboy barbs for the funnel work. I also noticed that using a larger funnel works best. If the funnel bottom hole is large enough it will self purge air, if it's small it will tend to struggle with air exchange. Alternatively you could stick a small straw down the funnel as well to bleed air as you fill with water.

[petecario]

Thanks for that but I can't find a store in Aus that stocks them DD barbs. The Koolance ones look they'd also work wouldn't they? http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=521
You would think they would fit being the same brand, might have to get some and try

[Phatboy69]

Thanks for that but I can't find a store in Aus that stocks them DD barbs. The Koolance ones look they'd also work wouldn't they? http://www.koolance.com/water-coolin...product_id=521
You would think they would fit being the same brand, might have to get some and try

I have a couple spare koolance ones lying around that I used. Ask me nicely and I might send you one.
PM me.

[vivithemage]

Im a little bit confused by how the new system works.
From what I can see the new acrylic piece does what my original pickup mod did but it also recirculates most of the water without it going into the res and the small hole at the return port is design to just somehow catch air in the res?

If you have D5s in series with the original serial link in the lower left and the new bleed kit in the right how does more water get into the loop when you've almost created a closed loop with the new bleed kit?

I just want to make sure its safe to run both acrylic serial links at the same time as I just cant see how water flows back into the res with the new bleed kit looking virtually like another serial link, be it with a small air capture hole and inlet tube.

The picture is confusing if you're using serial ... you'll just remove the long plug, and put in the stub so you have both tanks .