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Thread: Mountain Mods Extended Ascension Build (stage 5 water) COMPLETE!

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  1. #1
    Chasing After Diety
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    Quote Originally Posted by Waterlogged View Post
    While it's not listed in the Laing manual, I would take great care bleeding the system with the pumps in that orientation as it will allow air to stay in them. The best thing to do would be to unmount the pumps for bleeding so that all the air can be bled out and then remount them only after you are 100% certain all the air is gone and there is little chance of any being reintroduced into the loop.
    outlet should always be pointed up as WL is trying to say.

    Because when you got outlet down, the direction of water is now down.

    This can lead to an air pocket getting stuck in the top portion of your impeller which could allow it to run dry and burn itself out.

    This is why we recommend u possitioning your pump so even if your pump was off, gravity itself could push out the bubbles u had in the pump.


    Also, bro, get a couple of these guys:


    Then mod a new wire from the middle 4 pin molex, to a simple fan header on the other head.

    And then connect the fan header side onto a high powered fan controller.

    This way u can hide all that messy wires below your rad, and only have 2 or 3 each going to one of those nexus junctions and then to its respectable radiator.
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by NaeKuh View Post
    outlet should always be pointed up as WL is trying to say.

    Because when you got outlet down, the direction of water is now down.

    This can lead to an air pocket getting stuck in the top portion of your impeller which could allow it to run dry and burn itself out.

    This is why we recommend u possitioning your pump so even if your pump was off, gravity itself could push out the bubbles u had in the pump.
    I'm running DDC's this way for years and never had air trapped inside (i know cause i have plexi tops). The vortex is so high in the impeller area that i don't think that it'll ever trap air.
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    2nd loop -> Radiator: ThermoChill PA120.3 | Pump: Laing DDC-3.2 with Alphacool HF 38 top | GPU: 2 x EK FC-6870 | Tubing: Masterkleer 1/2" UV


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  3. #3
    barfastic
    Guest
    [QUOTE=NaeKuh;4756069]

    Also, bro, get a couple of these guys:


    Then mod a new wire from the middle 4 pin molex, to a simple fan header on the other head. - What do you mean, cause i was thinking of doing something similar...

    i went and bought 3 of these guys, because i thought i was gonna be using a on/off type fan controller, but i went for a rhoebus style... and now, those things are useless, and i dont really wanna go buy tons of fan splitters. So a more detailed description would GREATLY help me [QUOTE]

  4. #4
    Xtreme Member
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    RE: Sunbeamtech power splitter.

    Thats why I have so many fan controllers, I have them setup for automatic fan control to ramp up fan speeds with temperature load on the water temp. I can only run 2 fans per controller at the mo' and even then the fans dont reach max rpm, only get 1800 out of the 2000rpm max, which is why I want to replace the setup with a TMS-200 that can handle 2amps per channel. The fans normally run at 650rpm with system at idle to keep things quiet and they ramp up to about 1000rpm for a medium load and near max rpm for something like metro 2033 or benching.

    I dont want fans at full RPM all the time!
    Last edited by Phatboy69; 02-23-2011 at 12:02 AM.

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