The radiator part of the kit is the same as any MCR ( brass tubes, copper fins ) except for the modified plenums. The block is a low-cost version of the Apogee XT which has a copper base.Originally Posted by jalyst
This reinforces my & magisd's assertions
http://skinneelabs.com/coolants.html?page=4
No need to drink the coolant koolaid hype!
Distilled H2O* + a Biocide like PT_Nuke or Silver Kill coil is sufficient!?
What is the H20-220 Edge's Block & Rad are made from? (is that the only metal in the entire loop?)
Hopefully they're similar metals, as ya'll know Alu/Copper don't fancy one-another
Still, even if they're the same or similar metals e.g. Brass/Copper/Nickel...
I wonder if there's more that can be done to inhibit the corrosion process?
I've seen some mention Hydrx, but it apparently has it's own drawbacks.
Is making sure you have 'decent-ish' distilled or DI water about the only thing you can do?
Anyone got any recommendations for FANS/shrouds?
I want the highest CFM I can get without creating a "blower" for my externally mounted rad.
*de-ionised too, or that's the same thing? ytbd
Even with dissimilar metals there is some amount of controversy regarding galvanic corrosion within watercooling loops. The physics behind galvanic corrosion requires there to be an electrical connection between the metals in addition to the ionic conduction path. I'm not convinced that distilled deionized water is conductive enough for that, so I'm still confused how it's even possible for galvanic corrosion to occur within a watercooling loop. I wouldn't bother with corrosion inhibitor products, and some aftermarket coolants have been shown to create nasty deposits after a while. EDIT: I have no intention on derailing this thread. If anyone would like to discuss corrosion, use a PM
Gentle Typhoon AP15s are excellent fans for radiators given their low noise level. If you want more flow, you'll have to put up with more noise.
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