New EK 140mm Rads... Just received the photos in my email.

[Waterlogged]

Yeah, sorry, forgot I still had that turned off. Should work now

Thanks, if you haven't noticed it by now. . .YGPM.

[gmat]

Martin: just mount them vertically, so that 140mm sleeve bearing yates can be used without reduction of their life. Unfortunately there are no 140mm fans as good as GTs performance/noise wise+having ball or hydrodinamic bearing :/

I am using 140mm fans with fluid bearings... Actually found a few models.

[JokerCPoC]

I was going to get a TFC Monsta Lite 420 Radiator for My HAF-932 case in January 2011, I measured the case and the rads specs say It should fit between the area where the drive bay is at, provided the holes line up of course, Sure I'd love to use 140mm fans, preferably ones above 90cfm, Ideally at 113cfm, I know above 92cfm, I must be dreaming, But hey, I can dream, So why not?

It's too bad Delta doesn't make 140mm fans, At least I don't recall seeing any in that size.

I did find this one Here to be acceptable for the rad I mentioned, But yes It has 120mm fan mounting holes, But since I have a HAF-932 case, That's acceptable to Me(92.40cfm). For those that have only 140mm fan holes, Here's one and It does 90.04cfm according to Frozencpu.

Oh and I looked up the Noctua NH-D14, Nice looking slow speed fan, It does 110.3 m³/h (almost 65 CFM) according to tweaktown, No thanks, I'll pass on that one, too slow.

[BeepBeep2]

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27361

*runs away and hides*

Specs are wrong, I believe they are 140CFM @ 2800RPM...or 2300RPM there are several versions out there.

[JokerCPoC]

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27361

*runs away and hides*

Specs are wrong, I believe they are 140CFM @ 2800RPM...or 2300RPM there are several versions out there.

Well It's only about 2.5dba higher than the Delta AFB1212SH-PWM 120mm Super High Speed Fan (113 CFM, 46 dBA).

This place Here says 2300rpm on the YL 140cfm 140mm fan.

[Waterlogged]

http://www.yateloon.com/style/conten...=8511&id=38839

[Martinm210]

http://www.yateloon.com/style/conten...=8511&id=38839

Weird..

The Yate site notes the SH model is rated at 2800 RPMs/140CFM, yet PPCS calls them 2000RPM/140CFM


I had some of the Koolance 140mm high speeds a while back I bought there rated at 1700RPM, but they are not even carried anymore.

It seems 140mm fans are a bit of a mystery still, not really sure what is thought of as good. I'm guessing I might try some medium speed yates when I switch over to 140mm rads.

[Church]

Martin: or forget about getting bored with testing and make up another fan roundup but this time with 140mm rads/fans

BTW, has anyone used Yate Loons with ball bearing? In manufacturer specs their noise/performancy is shown as same as for sleeve bearing ones, but is it really so?

[Waterlogged]

Weird..

The Yate site notes the SH model is rated at 2800 RPMs/140CFM, yet PPCS calls them 2000RPM/140CFM


I had some of the Koolance 140mm high speeds a while back I bought there rated at 1700RPM, but they are not even carried anymore.

It seems 140mm fans are a bit of a mystery still, not really sure what is thought of as good. I'm guessing I might try some medium speed yates when I switch over to 140mm rads.

Sometimes, I think the Manu's don't even know what their making. About 7-8 years ago, I bought a bunch of these fans from SVC after I had gotten one with the Asetek water cooling kit I had gotten from FCPU because it was pretty decent. I didn't have any way to check the RPM's on them at the time so I ran on a simple rheo setup I had made. Well, about a year or so later I had gotten my hands on a pretty decent fan controller with RPM readout (Super Flower's version of this) and was shocked to learn that they were spinning @ 3750RPM. I can't really say if the CFM numbers are that far off as well (would like to test them someday) but, I can say that they make a bit more of a racket than 35dBA. They also have a bad resonance vibration from the frame which seems a bit thin for a fan with this much power. If I spent some time reinforcing the frame, they'd probably be half way decent undervolters.

[BeepBeep2]

PPC is wrong.

[Martinm210]

Martin: or forget about getting bored with testing and make up another fan roundup but this time with 140mm rads/fans

The thought did cross my mind, but I'd have to buy a single 140mm radiator and build a whole new test/flow chamber. I do have a cool new HD video camera, just not sure I want to go through that again. I'm interested, but I've done this before and know what I'd be getting myself into this time.....

[Church]

Martin: why single rad? Imho it's worth to buy some larger one that might be used after finish of tests for actual cooling something?
EDIT
Crap. Forgot that larger rad also means buying more fans of each type for test. Though hmm .. does it? As in will 1x140 rad cooling performance differ much from 3x140 but with just one fan and other fan places closed with something to not let air through for airflow loss?

[Martinm210]

Martin: why single rad? Imho it's worth to buy some larger one that might be used after finish of tests for actual cooling something?
EDIT
Crap. Forgot that larger rad also means buying more fans of each type for test. Though hmm .. does it? As in will 1x140 rad cooling performance differ much from 3x140 but with just one fan and other fan places closed with something to not let air through for airflow loss?

My preference is the video method using an anemometer and volt meter with a fan mounted to a single fan radiator. This simulates a good average amount of air restriction imposed on the fan and allows measuring and comparing actual air flow through a radiator. Granted there are different density rads and restriction, I just think lower fan speed is where the majority is so I tried to pick what would be most common. A single fan and single rad should be roughly the same restriction as three fans on a triple rad. You could test with a triple though, it would just mean a lot more fans and $$ is all. If you tested one fan on a triple radiator, you'd really be testing on something very low in restriction which would tend to favor the fans tuned more for open air conditions rather than a radiator where pressure performance matters.

I can buy a magicool 140 for only $29, so it's not a big deal and more economical wasting the money on the test 140 rad rather than 3 fans per test. Considering some fans can be as much as $30 a piece, just one test would already make the radiator purchase worth it even if I would never really use it for anything else.

[WhiteFireDragon]

i think the best compromise would be to make oval shaped holes for the triple and double 140mm rads. for the triple, make oval holes for the two outer fans and the middle slot can just have a normal hole. and for the double, just make oval holes for one of the fans. that doesn't sound too hard does it? the only problem i see with oval self-taping holes would be that the threads would now become a little weaker.

i just bought this NZXT Hades case for all internal WC'ing, and there's a slot on the top for a dual 140mm rad, but the spaces from center to center between fans is 17mm . is 2mm lenient enough to fit 15mm space rads like this EK one?

[Martinm210]

i think the best compromise would be to make oval shaped holes for the triple and double 140mm rads. for the triple, make oval holes for the two outer fans and the middle slot can just have a normal hole. and for the double, just make oval holes for one of the fans. that doesn't sound too hard does it? the only problem i see with oval self-taping holes would be that the threads would now become a little weaker.

i just bought this NZXT Hades case for all internal WC'ing, and there's a slot on the top for a dual 140mm rad, but the spaces from center to center between fans is 17mm . is 2mm lenient enough to fit 15mm space rads like this EK one?

Probably if you drill out the case holes just a touch.

I wouldn't want to see something elongated on the rad. M3 screws are already bad enough for cross threading, prefer M4 by far. If anything it would have to be some of those floating nut things which I wouldn't like much either and probably adds unecessary cost.

Is Hwlabs the only one doing 20mm? What about the Pa140s?

[skinnee]

20mm as well.

[Martinm210]

20mm as well.

Ahh..thanks.

Might be better just sticking with the 20 I guess if both HWlabs and Thermochill have gone down that road..

[WhiteFireDragon]

cam's back?

I wouldn't want to see something elongated on the rad. M3 screws are already bad enough for cross threading, prefer M4 by far. If anything it would have to be some of those floating nut things which I wouldn't like much either and probably adds unecessary cost.

i don't think making it longer by 5mm is that bad is it?

[Martinm210]

cam's back?



i don't think making it longer by 5mm is that bad is it?

No, just would look funny and you would have two sets of holes for part of the fans and not all or symmetrical. Also 5mm may not be enough room to make adjacent threaded holes..that's pretty darn tight.

Sounds like most of the high end rads and cases are following the 20mm spacing, so you're probably better off going that route or just stick with the 15 and expect people to drill/tap their own holes??

[Church]

martin:
20mm fan spacing:
a) rads: HWLabs(measured myself on SR1); Thermochill; Koolance
b) radgrills: Bitspower(here marked as 15mm, but mjtir told that IRL it's 20mm); MNPCtech; iandh's Stealthgrills

15mm fan spacing:
a) rads: Phobya(probably =Magicool,=Nanoxia(clone companies?)); EK Waterblocks; Feser(IIRC discontinued rads)
b) radgrills: custom MNPCtech; maybe +iandh if custom order aswell.

[mjtir]

My Bitspower radgrill has 20mm spacing.
I spend much time opening that area in my case only to find now that many 140 rads would not fit.

[Church]

mjtir: as i wrote, three radmaker rads that were first with 140mm rads fit it (well, maybe Feser Monsta was before HWLabs' GTX, it's hard to check now, but it was made in small quantities and was quickly sold out despite it's not as stellar cooling performance as it's looks/hype).
It's newer rads like Phobya/EK that doesn't fit BP if it really has 20mm fan spacing, both are recently released rads, so i understand why BP chosen 20mm, as that was the only spacing for all rads available when it was designed.