SLI Fittings for Asus P6TD-Deluxe

[Roch]

Thanks Wesley, i've fired off an email to Swiftech support.

[wesley]

Thanks Wesley, i've fired off an email to Swiftech support.

No probs. Be sure to post your findings here, will help us know for sure.

Wes

[NaeKuh]

Y

I prefer this type of paralell over the bottom because Pilsy is using a real F paralell vs, the bottom.

Thanks for the help!

Pilsy uses what is called an F paralell.
That means both sides are F's coming together.
A true paralell.

The one above uses pressure on one side to equalibirate the other forcing water to go though both blocks.
It works, but the F will give you more even temps throughout both gpu blocks.

[Roch]

Thanks for the advice, I didn't realise that. The reason for the way i've set it up is purely the shortest and neatest tubing route, will the temps be affected greatly or I we talking a couple of degrees?

[Church]

NaeKuh: Pilsy's variant seems more common across the builds, then your F one. You don't happen to know some test with both of these variants tested?
I wonder also where SLI/CF parallel bridges eg. like EK's one fit among these variants.

[NaeKuh]

Thanks for the advice, I didn't realise that. The reason for the way i've set it up is purely the shortest and neatest tubing route, will the temps be affected greatly or I we talking a couple of degrees?

on the gpu side, you wont miss it.
And it wont make your life happier, unless you want to piss off people with the lowest temps.

NaeKuh: Pilsy's variant seems more common across the builds, then your F one. You don't happen to know some test with both of these variants tested?
I wonder also where SLI/CF parallel bridges eg. like EK's one fit among these variants.

Well, here is my take on it.
Ive tried the F paralell and i like it.
However i dont need it. The advantage of it is 2 bridges for more support.
But i think it just looks messy, and when i need to remove my gpu's it makes things harder for me to get my fingers in.

This type of debate goes all the way back with tri sli paralell nonsense.
Personally i gave up trying to find out who was telling the truth and who wasnt.

Serial = always recomended, you cant mess up, and its what most of us use.
Paralell = recomended when your running multi blocks in the loop. IE. cpu and 2 gpu's.

that has always been my take on paralell.

[Roch]

No probs. Be sure to post your findings here, will help us know for sure.

Wes

Gabe has confirmed they're compatible, thanks Gabe!

on the gpu side, you wont miss it.
And it wont make your life happier, unless you want to piss off people with the lowest temps.

Thanks, will stick to my plan then.

[Biffa]

Well, here is my take on it.
Ive tried the F paralell and i like it.
However i dont need it. The advantage of it is 2 bridges for more support.
But i think it just looks messy, and when i need to remove my gpu's it makes things harder for me to get my fingers in.

This type of debate goes all the way back with tri sli paralell nonsense.
Personally i gave up trying to find out who was telling the truth and who wasnt.

Serial = always recomended, you cant mess up, and its what most of us use.
Paralell = recomended when your running multi blocks in the loop. IE. cpu and 2 gpu's.

that has always been my take on paralell.

F parallel is with the inlet in the top card and the outlet in the bottom?

I'm thinking of going with the inlet and outlet at the top, because then I don't have to mess about with the wacko ghetto config I have because of the PSU space. But its 4 cards so fairly restrictive, would I benefit from the setup I'm proposing?

[NaeKuh]

F parallel is with the inlet in the top card and the outlet in the bottom?

I'm thinking of going with the inlet and outlet at the top, because then I don't have to mess about with the wacko ghetto config I have because of the PSU space. But its 4 cards so fairly restrictive, would I benefit from the setup I'm proposing?

its on the other end in the bottom card.

You have equal branches in both pathways, by going the way philsy has.
Water comes down and is pushed, and collected on the other side while it flows though.

In the other model, you have a reservior (the left side along with the bridge) which gets filled with pressure and then tries to push water equally though both cards.

As i said... your not going to go OMGWOWZERSBBQ off it.
Personally id honestly say serial everything, unless ur running an insane heat load.

Ummm 3 GTX480 would do it, but its not easy to paralell that.
So id go with serial even on that as well.

[Biffa]

As i said... your not going to go OMGWOWZERSBBQ off it.
Personally id honestly say serial everything, unless ur running an insane heat load.

Ummm 3 GTX480 would do it, but its not easy to paralell that.
So id go with serial even on that as well.

I'll be cooling:

4 x GTX470's
i7@3.8
Dual NF200's and mosfets

Here is a mock up of what I thought would work in a parallel loop:


For ease of use it

Still building at the moment, so just formulating the best config I can with the help of all you fine chaps

[Roch]

OK, so I spent yesterday afternoon putting the loop together. It all went in (although a bit of a squeeze to get it all in) and I've left it over night to leak test, 12 hours so far.

what's bugging me now is the noise. The pump is really loud (it's making a "droning" noise) and there's a large water "whooshing" noise every 10 or so seconds.

If I turn the case on it's front the water noise disappears. I've tried filling it up more but it's as full as it can be. I'm concerned i've done something wrong with the way i've set it up, has anyone got an suggestions, i'm kind of panicking .

EDIT: when I put the case on its side the water noise stops completely and the pump quietens somewhat, is this trapped air?

[PiLsY]

Yeah trapped air man. The wooshing noise is air moving around in the rad. Keep tilting, twisting and turning the case and topping up. A small amount of air makes a lot of noise - I doubt its anywhere near as bad as you think .

The droning noise is likely your pump making the rad vibrate slightly. If you can fix your rad in place with foam blocks it should kill the majority of the noise.

Air bubbles going through the pump sounds like gravel in your loop. The fact that you cant hear this means the air is most likely stuck in the rad. I'd say just use the loop and top it off each day as the last of the air makes its way out. Trapped air doesnt make a huge difference as long as you have good flow.

You can run it with the rad cap undone - itll bleed faster that way. Just undo the cap and place it across the hole to stop dust and crap getting into the water.

[Roch]

Thanks Pilsy, that's sorted it. The water noise has completely gone and the pumps much quieter. I'm mounting the rad with Lian Li Rad Brackets so I might try and rig something else up to reduce the pump noise further, though compared to before it's fantastic.

[Roch]

Fitted and running! Max combustor temp of 47 for the top card and 42 for the bottom one. A problem however, I seem to have a damaged PSU, I kept crashing as soon as I upped the voltage in Afterburner, the screen went blank and had to hard reset, the 24pin ATX plug has two melted pins and blackened a couple of pins in the motherboard socket, do you think the mobo will be ok if I replace the PSU? It's been flaky for a while, I just couldn't nail it down.

[PiLsY]

It "should" be ok but clean those pins up as best you can. What PSU was that?

Temp difference is because the bottom card is getting more flow. As Naekuh explained before you won't get equal flow like that. Temps look just fine though, nice build .

Here's my own little diagram to explain. MS Paint ftw .

[UrbanSmooth]

Great diagram, PiLsY!

[Biffa]

Temp difference is because the bottom card is getting more flow. As Naekuh explained before you won't get equal flow like that. Temps look just fine though, nice build .

Here's my own little diagram to explain. MS Paint ftw .

So I'm thinking I might be in for a truck load of variable temps if I have 4 cards setup like Roch.

[PiLsY]

4 would be pushing it. If you have inlet and outlet on one card temps will increase the further you go from that card. If you had in and out on card 4 then card 1 would be the hottest.

Biggest problem is its easy to get a big air pocket in the card(s) that arent connected as the water is quite happy to go in and out the same card if its not F style. Youre essentially turning the top cards into an airtrap.

[Biffa]

Inlet and outlets on top, say I get all the air out? Still as you get cards further away from the inlet and outlet the cards are going to get warmer I Guess.

Worth a try given the shennanigans I had to jump through to do serial

[PiLsY]

Id say leave the bottom card set up like it is now and set up the top 3 in parallel F. That leaves your inlets and outlets all the same and will reduce a lot of the flow restriction in your loop too. All you need to do is add 2 sli fittings . Card 1 out > Card 2 out + Card 2 in > Card 3 in would be all you need.

What cards are they? Only ask as the bottom one is at least a different pcb. 3 x 470 + 480?

[UrbanSmooth]

I still don't get why people want to do serial when parallel supposedly gives the best temps, etc.

[Biffa]

Firstly, Roch, sorry if I have barged in on your thread

Id say leave the bottom card set up like it is now and set up the top 3 in parallel F. That leaves your inlets and outlets all the same and will reduce a lot of the flow restriction in your loop too. All you need to do is add 2 sli fittings . Card 1 out > Card 2 out + Card 2 in > Card 3 in would be all you need.

What cards are they? Only ask as the bottom one is at least a different pcb. 3 x 470 + 480?

Yes it was 3 x 470 and 1 x 480. With an EK block on the bottom to offset the in/outlets to give me some room to get things connected

But now the 480 is in my other machine and I have replaced the 4th card with a 470, but I have both an EK block and a AquaGrafx block while I decide what to do.

I thought I'd test it and see if I can run it like Roch has, and if not I have one of these ordered on the way from Germany.

I still don't get why people want to do serial when parallel supposedly gives the best temps, etc.

I never even heard about doing parallel until I got on here a few weeks ago.

[Roch]

It "should" be ok but clean those pins up as best you can. What PSU was that?

It was a Coolermaster CM850, not the greatest out there but pretty good. I thought it would have handled the load, I suppose it just goes to show the power these things use overvolted. I've ordered an Enermax Revolution 1250, that should sort it, i'll use a scalpel to scrape the pins out.

Here's my own little diagram to explain. MS Paint ftw .

Thanks for that, you've really been a great help, I was really happy with it (for the time it worked lol) the temps are half what they were which should give me plenty of headroom for better clocks, plus the noisiest thing was the pump as opposed to the two 1700rpm 140mm fans I was running before over the MK13s.

Firstly, Roch, sorry if I have barged in on your thread

No Worries Biffa, although you're making me jealous with that hardware

[Johnny87au]

Firstly, Roch, sorry if I have barged in on your thread



Yes it was 3 x 470 and 1 x 480. With an EK block on the bottom to offset the in/outlets to give me some room to get things connected

But now the 480 is in my other machine and I have replaced the 4th card with a 470, but I have both an EK block and a AquaGrafx block while I decide what to do.

I thought I'd test it and see if I can run it like Roch has, and if not I have one of these ordered on the way from Germany.





I never even heard about doing parallel until I got on here a few weeks ago.

I dont think temps will be even much difference to running them in paralell, if anything dude nothing!, You should compare both though seeming as you're trying out the new paralell setup.. Would be good to see which is hotter n cooler

[PiLsY]

Yeah that PSU shouldve been fine. RMA?