--- r e f l e X i o n ---

[ipuoL]

nice heavy tools congratulations! I love your work in detail! Go on this way and it would be one of the best 3 i had ever seen

[Wezly]

I'm doing a lot of work with plexi in this build and will in future builds as well.

HA! More like side-project-build

WWWEEEEAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRR....

[dingdong555]

Very nice, I think this will help you heaps. Really loving the campers chair too

[Mabyboi]

Affirmative, Mayboi. Love the new avatar.

WWWEEEEAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRR....

My thoughts exactly ! looking good!

oh... and its Mabyboi....

[Xion X2]

oh, nice work mate!
If that it not top secret info, how much did you already spend for all those tools?

Thanks, GK. I'll PM you the details.

You must have quite the workshop now with all the recent power tool additions to it
They certainly make a difference when it comes to making accurate cuts, especially the router table. Love the clean finish it leaves on plexi.
Coming along nicely mate.

Thanks, Red. Having the right tools makes this stuff a lot more fun; I can tell you that. It opens a lot of doors as to what is possible in a build.

nice heavy tools congratulations! I love your work in detail! Go on this way and it would be one of the best 3 i had ever seen

Thank you, ipuoL. Your feedback is much appreciated, friend. And I do hope that the end product lives up to your expectations. I'll do my best!

HA! More like side-project-build

Hehe.

Very nice, I think this will help you heaps. Really loving the campers chair too

Yeah. I figured since I was camping out in the workshop for days at a time now that I needed a camping chair.

I love those chairs as they're really comfortable. Especially for those with back trouble like I tend to have occasionally.

My thoughts exactly ! looking good!

oh... and its Mabyboi....

Sorry, bud. I knew that.. it was just a late night typo.

Off to have some lunch, then watch a little of the Olympics before heading back over to the shop. Have a great day, everyone!

[voigts]

These are the blades I just got:

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-10-MASTERCRAFT...item53dd33706c

They should leave much cleaner edges than having to use regular saw blades.

[kgtiger]

It's good to see you enjoying your self mate.


However your not being too safe!!!

Please get ride of those damm! gloves when using power tools, you scare me.

If by chance(and God forbid) your wearing your gloves and you slip or just have your hand in the wrong place and the sh@t hits the fan.
The teeth on the saw blade will grab hold of the fabric/leather of the glove and pull your whole hand into the blade as fast as it can look at you.
There will be, no time to react and it will not stop until either your hand jams the blade and stalls the motor
or it cuts through your hand up to the point where the glove stops, only at that point will you be able to pull your are away.
That might well be past your wrist, I am really serious mate.

Look at it this way mate, if you stuff up with NO glove on your hand there is no fabric or leather for the teeth on the blade
to grab hold of and pull your hand into the saw blade, so you loose a finger, no biggy, you have more, right.
It will only cut your skin, I know sounds dumb, but you will be able to pull your hand out, straight away, as the blade will have no hold on your skin.
Because it has already cut it, just like how you can cut into a piece of wood and stop when ever you like.
As long as you don't push the wood towards the blade anymore, there in nothing for the blade to grab and pull on, it just sits there.

I have seen some pretty horrendous thing happen at work over my time, I touched on that with the drill press at Shazzas work log.

I lost the top pads of my two middle fingers on my left hand thanks to a wood plan, luck for me I just touched to top of the blades and it flicked my hand back, but didn't grab it.
In fact it wasn't until I noticed what the wood was suddenly wet, my first thought was that sap coming out of 100 yr old Jarrah.
Jarrah is hard wood from Western Australia and it’s red in colour, so then I looked at my fingers.
The blades had cut off the pads at the tips of my two fingers, ring finger was to the bone and both had lost the tips of the fingernails.
I hardly noticed it, just a quick sharp pain, like a splinter.
After 6 months the skin finely covered the flat spots back up and I got full feeling back in both fingers, you couldn't even tell unless you look real close now.

I pray that all close calls are that easy to fix.


Anyhow!
When cutting on a table saw, yes there is a chance that material can kick back at you.
Mainly with wood that has a twist or a bow in it, and for that reason you should not use it.
It kicks back at you either because it gets jammed between the fence and the blade or it rides up the back of the blade.
The splitter at the back of the blade will stop most of the kick back as it stops the material from touching the back of the blade.

You are right, you are best to stand on the right side of the blade with a table saw.
But don't push material through with your hands, use a push stick made out of scrap wood.
This will not only keep your hands away from the blade but will also help to stop you from leaning over the blade as to push through the material.

Plus don’t think that guard over the blade will stop your hands either.
It want, it's just cheap plastic and it will break up when something either hits it or will lift up as your hand slides under it.

I don't want to scare the crap out of you so you never use it again, but just give you the heads up that these can bite.


Take the time to ask people that have work with this equipment what the best way to use it and what do you need to watchout for.
There will be locale courses you can take or just buy some book on how to use it.

Have fun with it mate.

Notice that I'm feeding the blade while standing to the right and out of the kickback path. I've heard this is the smart thing to do...

[Xion X2]

Alright, guys. No more gloves with the power tools.

I am extremely careful when working with this stuff.. being very conscious to have my hands/body in the right position, etc. Have read through all the safety manuals and even watched a lot of operational videos, but I do appreciate the concern and advice and will pay heed to it. I did some research, and it does appear that wearing gloves isn't a great idea for sawing or drill press work. I think it's probably ok as long as you're careful, but to lessen any risk of injury I'll take the advice. Thanks.

[mib]

Nice machines you have. I'm dreaming of such a machine shop....

You know safety first in every aspect of life.
Nice work BTW.

[Xion X2]

These are the blades I just got:

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-10-MASTERCRAFT...item53dd33706c

They should leave much cleaner edges than having to use regular saw blades.

Thanks, voigts. Let me know how they work. Do you plan to use them on your miter or table saw?

I think for now that I'm still inclined to use a jig for cutting aluminum. The blade rotation on my table saw spins frontward, and the thought of cutting metal and spinning shards out the front just doesn't seem like much fun to me.

Nice machines you have. I'm dreaming of such a machine shop....

You know safety first in every aspect of life.
Nice work BTW.

Thanks, mib. It's just a basic shop. I'm still building up my tool base, but it's much more than I had just a few months ago.


Right now I'm busy polishing my router skills. This plexi makes a real mess.. I know that much.




Shop-vac to the rescue. There's a vacuum attachment on the back of the router table that's built into the fence, but since I'm not using the stock fence (too short a depth for the shelves that I'm carving) then I can't use it. Which ultimately means that there's a 100% chance of snow any time that I flip the switch on the router with plexi on the table.

Here's some of the work I'm doing. Basically just trying to learn this router to see how clean a groove cut that I can get.



The screws for the SSDs are too short to mount through 1/4" plexi, so I'm using the router to clear away the plexi where the SSDs mount through the back.

I'm also now thinking about just sanding/polishing the edges of the plexi instead of framing it. If I can get it completely transparent (or close) then I may keep it like this as it kind of shimmers in the light.



And.. look, ma! No work gloves! (although I felt naked without them)

[Wezly]

And.. look, ma! No work gloves! (although I felt naked without them)

And look at that thing on the tip of your thumb! It's disgusting. What is that, dust, messed up dead skin? Gross. Put those gloves back on.

[Xion X2]

And look at that thing on the tip of your thumb! It's disgusting. What is that, dust, messed up dead skin? Gross. Put those gloves back on.

Just can't please anyone these days. If I wear my safety gloves, I get a safety lecture. If I take good photos, I need a manicure.

What's a modder to do.

[mib]

@Xion X2

I see that the cut outs are not transparent as plexi is. What I remember to avoid that was to use an oil to cool down plexi.

[Xion X2]

@Xion X2

I see that the cut outs are not transparent as plexi is. What I remember to avoid that was to use an oil to cool down plexi.

Any particular oil that you used? Sometimes I'll use an aluminum lubricant when I'm cutting metal, but I wasn't sure if it was okay to use on plexi or not. Plexi seems sensitive to certain chemicals.

The cut wasn't perfectly clean, either, which caused some cloudiness. I'm still using the Bosch spiral bit which has a sharp carbide tip, and I'm thinking a duller, smoother bit to polish it will help bring back the transparency. I know that sanding it with high grit paper seems to do it, but I don't have high enough grit right now to get it clear. Will buy some 1500 grit tomorrow to try.

[Wezly]

Your pictures and safety procedures are fine; you should know by now that I will always have something to say now that you are putting up progress photos.

May I ask why you cannot use longer screws for the zero G walls? Or is that to route cables? How are you going to deal with the round corners? Won't those show up and refract light, especially when polished?

[Xion X2]

Your pictures and safety procedures are fine; you should know by now that I will always have something to say now that you are putting up progress photos.

I knew you were playin.

May I ask why you cannot use longer screws for the zero G walls? Or is that to route cables? How are you going to deal with the round corners? Won't those show up and refract light, especially when polished?

Finding screws to fit the SSDs has been difficult because they're so small. The only place I've found them is MDPC, and this is as long as they come. I can try locating some, but I actually thought that some nice carving work on the back of the plexi would add some dimension to the piece. It's not necessary that the drives appear as floating from the back since you're going to see the screws, anyway. The effect is meant to be seen from the other side where they show through the windows.

What "round corners" are you speaking of? Not following you here.

[voigts]

I will probably end up using them on both my miter saw and table saw. It will be so much faster to cut aluminum sheets with a table saw than having to use a jig saw. I planning on using an aluminum frame (with wooden exterior) on my next build (I'm going some renders for it at the moment). A table saw makes much cleaner cuts too than a jig saw, and it is a lot quicker and easier than having to use a hand held circular saw. As for the bits of material, you just wear safety glasses and long sleeves. I wear glasses anyway, but when cutting metal, I always wear safety glasses as one little piece of metal in your eye will take you to the doctor/hospital.

I also will be cutting small square pieces for a res, and I've found out the hard way before that when you are making a rectangular res out of rectangular pieces, the less you have to mess with the edges and the squarer you can cut the pieces the better as you can then get good seams.

As for the grooves in your plexi, you may want to consider doing a bit of flame polishing with a small pencil torch. As long as an edge isn't going to be solvent welded (glued), you can hit it with a torch a bit to shine it up quickly. A pencil torch is ideal for small notches like that, and can save a lot of time sanding.

As for tools, I've already accumulated more than I planned. The more you tinker with stuff and build stuff, the more tools you find yourself needing. I've now got a large belt drive table saw, scroll saw, drill press, miter saw, sliding miter saw, orbital sander, belt sander, mouse sander (very handy), sawzall, cordless and power drills, new router with interchangeable bases, variable speed Dremel with bunches of bits, digital calipers, squares, clamps of all sizes from 4'" to 4", etc, etc, and have used all of them except for sawzall in modding. Modding is infectious!

[kgtiger]

Alright, guys. No more gloves with the power tools.

I am extremely careful when working with this stuff.. being very conscious to have my hands/body in the right position, etc. Have read through all the safety manuals and even watched a lot of operational videos, but I do appreciate the concern and advice and will pay heed to it. I did some research, and it does appear that wearing gloves isn't a great idea for sawing or drill press work. I think it's probably ok as long as you're careful, but to lessen any risk of injury I'll take the advice. Thanks.

Hay you, don't mean to bug'ya.

But I get the feeling this is just lip service, I really hope I am wrony.
It's in this comment, I am not sure you really get it.

I think it's probably ok as long as you're careful, but to lessen any risk of injury I'll take the advice.

I had a boss once that said until you get five stitches, you don't know squat.

You might be "extremely careful when working with this stuff".
"Being very conscious to have my hands/body in the right position", this is just basic stuff, common sense, all thou I find common sense in not that common.

Having "read through all the safety manuals and even watched a lot of operational videos" is excellent to hear.

Being alert is good, feeling naked is also good, because it will heighten your senses, may be even to the point of being "very alert".

But it want last, I will bet my right nad, that it want last.
You will become complacent and it what take long, in fact you want even notice it, until something out of the norm,
something outside of your control happens and that’s when the s@at hits the fan and if you have been cutting corners you will pay, big time.
Xion even if you do everything to the highest safety standards all the time, thing will still go wrong.

I will be honest with you, for the first time last night in this work log, I never read each and every post, I just looked at the photos
I never read that Voigts had cautioned you on using gloves, but I am dam glad he did.
10 points to Voigts.

While I am giving you a so called "lecture", I know my kid don't like them either, they'll get over it.

Do you have a mobile phone on you when working in your work shop?

Is it turn on?

Do you have 991 (Your relevant Emergence Number) programmed into speed dial?

Can you get a strong signal everywhere inside the workshop?

Are there people always around you (calling distance from work shop) if you needed to call out for help?


I don't want to give you a hard time mate, I’ve got better thing to do than type this all out with two fingers, but you are playing with fire and those that don't know how to play, get burnt.

If I didn't care about you mate, I would give you a half line caution and be done with it.
Enough said.

Looking forward to your nest update mate.

[Xion X2]

Being alert is good, feeling naked is also good, because it will heighten your senses,

Sorry, Graeme. I draw the line at the gloves, bud. I'm just not willing to saw naked. Just the very thought of it makes me curl into a fetal position.



On a serious note, I do take safety very seriously and certainly appreciate your concern. But I would prefer to continue this discussion through PM going forward to help keep this thread on topic.

Thanks, bud.

[Laine]

To get the cloudiness out of a plexiglass cut, you can torch it with a blow torch.

[Xion X2]

To get the cloudiness out of a plexiglass cut, you can torch it with a blow torch.

Thanks, Laine. Have you experimented with any model in particular that you could recommend?

I haven't used a torch, but I've tried my heat gun and it seems to melt the perspex too close to the point where it finally becomes perfectly opaque.

After some experimenting last night, I've found that going higher than 1000 grit sandpaper will give you the opaque look that you're going for without heat.

[callen_1]

Thanks, Laine. Have you experimented with any model in particular that you could recommend?

I haven't used a torch, but I've tried my heat gun and it seems to melt the perspex too close to the point where it finally becomes perfectly opaque.

After some experimenting last night, I've found that going higher than 1000 grit sandpaper will give you the opaque look that you're going for without heat.

You can try a bernzomatic (the yellow one).

I've used it and it works, just not quite as well a the hydrogen mix the pros use. The finer the tip you can find for it the better, as the
one it comes with has a fairly wide flame (in comparison to the width of the acrylic).

Leave the paper on the acrylic and pass the flame relatively quickly and it'll leave a polished surface. Also, the smoother the original
surface, the quicker it will glass-off. This will also reduce the risk of burning the acrylic so it's a good idea to hand polish with a fine grit
first.

Well, that's my experience anyway. Take it or leave it

[Xion X2]

You can try a bernzomatic (the yellow one).

I've used it and it works, just not quite as well a the hydrogen mix the pros use. The finer the tip you can find for it the better, as the
one it comes with has a fairly wide flame (in comparison to the width of the acrylic).

Leave the paper on the acrylic and pass the flame relatively quickly and it'll leave a polished surface. Also, the smoother the original
surface, the quicker it will glass-off. This will also reduce the risk of burning the acrylic so it's a good idea to hand polish with a fine grit
first.

Well, that's my experience anyway. Take it or leave it

Great info, callen. Thanks. After seeing your workshop skills, I think I'll take it and give the Benzo a try.

The question is.. do I wear...

Won't go there.

[Mabyboi]

Great info, callen. Thanks. After seeing your workshop skills, I think I'll take it and give the Benzo a try.

The question is.. do I wear...

Won't go there.

I think you need the maximum protection...

i think...

you need...

A NANO SUIT!!

[Xion X2]

I will probably end up using them on both my miter saw and table saw. It will be so much faster to cut aluminum sheets with a table saw than having to use a jig saw.

... I also will be cutting small square pieces for a res, and I've found out the hard way before that when you are making a rectangular res out of rectangular pieces, the less you have to mess with the edges and the squarer you can cut the pieces the better as you can then get good seams.

Yeah, I completely agree. That's the first benefit that I noticed of my table saw was how much easier it is to make square cuts now.

Alright, you convinced me, voigts. I went ahead and bought two of those Mastercraft blades for aluminum to try. I hope they work well. I went to my local hardware stores, and, per usual, they didn't have any blades that were made for cutting aluminum.

As for the grooves in your plexi, you may want to consider doing a bit of flame polishing with a small pencil torch. As long as an edge isn't going to be solvent welded (glued), you can hit it with a torch a bit to shine it up quickly. A pencil torch is ideal for small notches like that, and can save a lot of time sanding.

Is your thought that sanding a smooth groove down will keep it from bonding as well as a rough surface? I'd thought of that, yet at the same time since I plan to keep these plexi joins exposed I'd like them as clean looking as possible. Also, do you have a link to the type of torch that you're recommending? I went looking through some tonight but am not sure which one I should get for this type of work.

Thanks, friend.

I think you need the maximum protection...

i think...

you need...

A NANO SUIT!!

That looks like it'd be helpful in the shop, doesn't it?