Swiftech Releases Komodo HD5800 F/C Waterblock For ATI

[irenedakota]

I did, but after reading this and the other thread I have back turned by 1.5 turns. I think I'm going to unmount it and put some washers there (I have some lying around)

[Philwong]

I did, but after reading this and the other thread I have back turned by 1.5 turns. I think I'm going to unmount it and put some washers there (I have some lying around)

Don't. I believe your card should be fine after the correction.

Remounting the block might affect the performance of your thermal pads since they're already compressed. This should not be a problem unless you can achieve the exact screw pressure again.

Phil

[irenedakota]

Don't. I believe your card should be fine after the correction.

Remounting the block might affect the performance of your thermal pads since they're already compressed. This should not be a problem unless you can achieve the exact screw pressure again.

Phil

Forgot about the thermal pads, thanks. Will have to wait for my CPU mounting kit to arrive to test it though

[Babrbarossa]

I unfortunately did not find this thread until I already installed my Komodo on my 5870, and I too ran into the same problem. I recognised the problem with the bracket myself once my initial installation came up dead because of the short, and backed it off- now the monitor gets a signal (no image- the monitor just picks up a signal for a few seconds and then goes black again). I am very confident I installed it properly and I didn't get anything wet so the most likely scenario is that this backplate short did permanent damage. I even tried taking the backplate right off and still dead.

I swore I'd never buy another swiftech block after the seal on my Apogee GTZ started leaking one day and killed two 260s- I don't know what I was thinking getting another one.

Very ticked off right now at Swiftech's shoddy execution of their products.

[Philwong]

I unfortunately did not find this thread until I already installed my Komodo on my 5870, and I too ran into the same problem. I recognised the problem with the bracket myself though and backed it off- now the monitor gets a signal (no image- the minitor just picks up a signal) for a few seconds and then goes black again. I am very confident I installed it properly and I didn't get anything wet so the most liekly scenario is that this backplate short did permanent damage. I even tried taking the backplate right off and still dead.

I swore I'd never buy another swiftech block after the seal on my Apogee GTZ started leakeding one day and killed two 260s- I don't know what I was thinking getting another one.

Very ticked off right now at Swiftech's shoddy QA/QC.

You should try to reinstall the stock HSF and give your 5870 another go. Be prepared to RMA the card if necessary. Good luck.

Phil

[Boulard83]

Juste ordered a Komodo. Hope ill not have any issue !

[Philwong]

Juste ordered a Komodo. Hope ill not have any issue !

You may like to check whether the package include the new GPU plastic washers.

Phil

[Boulard83]

I already have these on hand

[Philwong]

I already have these on hand

Have fun then...

Phil

[dejanh]

Can somebody post a pic of what is supposedly being shorted? Is it on the backside of the card, where the X bracket sits? If it is how come it does not short by default then? I'm not sure I understood the problem from this thread and I'd be curious to see it before I decide to cool my cards with this block.

[gabe]

Can somebody post a pic of what is supposedly being shorted? Is it on the backside of the card, where the X bracket sits? If it is how come it does not short by default then? I'm not sure I understood the problem from this thread and I'd be curious to see it before I decide to cool my cards with this block.

here is the explanation:

the stock heatsink standoffs go thru the pcb, and stick out on the back side of it by 1mm. when you tighten the stock X spring bracket, it sits on the standoffs and is therefore 1m above the pcb.

Since we are not using standoffs that go thu the pcb, when we tighten the x bracket, it comes to mate with the pcb backside. it's not a problem to touch the pcb, since these spots are grounded. but since we are bending the arms of the X spring bracket a tiny little bit more, the end of the arms might be sometimes slightly touching some surface mount components that are close to the grounded holes. it is very subtle, and doesn't happen systematically. It really depends on the height tolerances of said surface mount components. For example, we never had the problems during our validation testing, on several different ATI boards, including 5870, 5850's and 5970's.. this is the reason why it never caught our attention to begin with.

The fix to this problem was very simple: include washers that go under the X spring bracket so that it stays sufficiently above the board to never touch anything. the same result is achieved (without washers) by simply backing off the screws by a turn or two..

[dejanh]

here is the explanation:

the stock heatsink standoffs go thru the pcb, and stick out on the back side of it by 1mm. when you tighten the stock X spring bracket, it sits on the standoffs and is therefore 1m above the pcb.

Since we are not using standoffs that go thu the pcb, when we tighten the x bracket, it comes to mate with the pcb backside. it's not a problem to touch the pcb, since these spots are grounded. but since we are bending the arms of the X spring bracket a tiny little bit more, the end of the arms might be sometimes slightly touching some surface mount components that are close to the grounded holes. it is very subtle, and doesn't happen systematically. It really depends on the height tolerances of said surface mount components. For example, we never had the problems during our validation testing, on several different ATI boards, including 5870, 5850's and 5970's.. this is the reason why it never caught our attention to begin with.

The fix to this problem was very simple: include washers that go under the X spring bracket so that it stays sufficiently above the board to never touch anything. the same result is achieved (without washers) by simply backing off the screws by a turn or two..

Got it. Thanks Gabe. I have a lot of spare nylon washers anyway so if I do decide to go down this route I should be good then. Still waiting for my second HD 5850

[Boulard83]

Just installed my komodo. Using MX-3 as thermal paste.

GPU temp : 39°c under OCCT gpu test after 30+ minutes

My Vreg are at ~70°c but i keept the stock thermal pad. I didnt removed it to use paste as contact and i think the temp are normal as this with thermal pad for the Vreg.

[Badfastbusa]

Just installed my komodo. Using MX-3 as thermal paste.

GPU temp : 39°c under OCCT gpu test after 30+ minutes

My Vreg are at ~70°c but i keept the stock thermal pad. I didnt removed it to use paste as contact and i think the temp are normal as this with thermal pad for the Vreg.

I read at the end of this thread that people were removing the thermal tape and using TIM and getting excellent results:
http://translate.google.com/translat...ate.google.com

[Razrback16]

Just installed my komodo. Using MX-3 as thermal paste.

GPU temp : 39°c under OCCT gpu test after 30+ minutes

My Vreg are at ~70°c but i keept the stock thermal pad. I didnt removed it to use paste as contact and i think the temp are normal as this with thermal pad for the Vreg.

70*C load temps on the vregs are still incredibly good temps. Have you voltmodded the card yet?

[dejanh]

Bah I need my second HD 5850 to be shipped out and then I can put everything together and see what temps I would get on the VREG with the paste instead of the pads.

By the way, Gabe, the first Komodo I received is brand new but kinda beat up. There are scratches on the acetal, loose pieces of metal from machining, and part of the base is not even chrome plated. I do not have a camera handy right now to take a pic but that's pretty iffy QC.

I've already cleaned up the loose metal pieces and the scratches on the acetal are not the end of the world, but the plating, I'm wondering how that one got missed.

[Boulard83]

70*C load temps on the vregs are still incredibly good temps. Have you voltmodded the card yet?

Currently running at 950/1300 with 1.175v. Furmark takes my Vreg a lil high as i told but its still far from bad !

After playing GTA4 for several hours :

Single loop with Dual MCP655, 1x TFC360 and 3x SplitStream shrouded at ~1200rpm.

CPU : ~45°c ( coretemp )
GPU : ~37°c ( AfterBurner )
Vreg : ~55°c ( GPUZ, i think, ill check againg soon )

Ill be doind more testing but my PSU is currently RMAed so im stuck with an old CoolerMaster 650w.

[gabe]

Bah I need my second HD 5850 to be shipped out and then I can put everything together and see what temps I would get on the VREG with the paste instead of the pads.

By the way, Gabe, the first Komodo I received is brand new but kinda beat up. There are scratches on the acetal, loose pieces of metal from machining, and part of the base is not even chrome plated. I do not have a camera handy right now to take a pic but that's pretty iffy QC.

I've already cleaned up the loose metal pieces and the scratches on the acetal are not the end of the world, but the plating, I'm wondering how that one got missed.

We re-machined one of the cavities in a post production operation, reason why it is not plated.

BTW, I found a great product to erase minor surface scratches from the Delrin housing: brake cleaner.. it ever so slightly etches the skin of the Delrin, and gives it a very nice and smooth finish.

[EnJoY]

We re-machined one of the cavities in a post production operation, reason why it is not plated.

BTW, I found a great product to erase minor surface scratches from the Delrin housing: brake cleaner.. it ever so slightly etches the skin of the Delrin, and gives it a very nice and smooth finish.

Brake cleaner is powerful stuff. For anyone who tries this, be sure not to get any on the rubber o-rings or any rubber seals. It's only safe on metals and strong plastics, such as Delrin.

[gabe]

Brake cleaner is powerful stuff. For anyone who tries this, be sure not to get any on the rubber o-rings or any rubber seals. It's only safe on metals and strong plastics, such as Delrin.

am using brake cleaner now... should also mention that ... good room ventilation is needed...

just kidding.. but here is the technique: spray some Brake Cleaner on cloth, and then wipe the Delrin the surface...

[Boulard83]

Heres my block.

[EnJoY]

am using brake cleaner now... should also mention that ... good room ventilation is needed...

just kidding.. but here is the technique: spray some Brake Cleaner on cloth, and then wipe the Delrin the surface...

Haha, yes. And you might want to wear gloves to as it can irritate your skin and you definitely do not want it in your eyes either. Then again, I probably have about a gallon of it in my blood stream from working on cars over the years.

[gabe]

Heres my block.

..and you can see the cavity we re-machined and that is not plated on the left.

[Boulard83]

Im very happy with it Gabe. Install was EZ and straight foward. Ill try it with paste on the Vreg on my next Flush/Refill.

If i do this, i only remove the 2 tape on the extrem left and use paste ? ( MX-3 in my case )

[gabe]

Im very happy with it Gabe. Install was EZ and straight foward. Ill try it with paste on the Vreg on my next Flush/Refill.

If i do this, i only remove the 2 tape on the extrem left and use paste ? ( MX-3 in my case )

that's right. it's also documented in the install guide..