Nanofluid tested with three different temperatures on a Q6600

[Main]

From my experiences with nanofluids; if it is not opaque it is not a nanofluid. That is the first thing I look for when someone else claims to have a nanofluid. If I can see through it, it is a bunch of bs..hail satan

oh well

Hope you don't planning $50 for the litre - as the other "nanofluid" costs

[skinnee]

Main, did Ice Dragon send you a sample? Or are you referring to the Fluid XP nanofluid stuff?

I'll also ask again, are you the Main from Hardforum that was banned?

[Main]

Main, did Ice Dragon send you a sample? Or are you referring to the Fluid XP nanofluid stuff?

I was refferring to the fluidxp

I'll also ask again, are you the Main from Hardforum that was banned?

No I'm not

[Sailindawg]

It seems that your nanofluid has a slightly greater ability to absorb heat than distilled water. The nanofluid seems to have a resistance to biologic fouling and seems to perform better as more heat is generated within the loop. For example, having a cpu & northbridge cooled by a 240 rad, then add a vid card. The nanofluid can handle the extra heat generated by the vid card, without compromising cpu/nb temps. Please correct me if I'm wrong on this point.

What is your nanofluids electrical capacitance, conductivity and ability to short out electronics as compared to distilled water? Be great to have a similar liquid to distilled water in regard to heat adsorption capacity that would not short out your kit in the event of a leak.

[Sailindawg]

I have it, have had for about 2 months.
I havent checked to see if there is any staining, will do that maybe in another month or so i guess.

I have the (so-called) clear shistuff, its kind cloudy looking but i just wanted
to try it as its suppose to be good to below freezing as i used it in conjunction
with my phase cooler. Its currently used 24/7 for a HTPC

Its running in my same old Q66, NB, and 2 4770,s all watercooled with 2 ST 220
rads on a ST 355 pump and XSPC res. top in a single loop.

For any one interested in staining i will also post what i find inside after another
month or maybe when HES does his.

That's an interesting set-up. Is the Q6600 a SLACR GO? What's you're voltage on the cpu and what clocks are you running the Q6600 at? What clocks / voltage are the 4770's running at?

Also what are your cpu / vid card temps under 100% load stress?

Thanks.

[Mech0z]

Wonder how long time until the effect wears off, or if its just permanent

[Sailindawg]

Wonder how long time until the effect wears off, or if its just permanent

Are you refering to the nanofluid's ability to absorb heat? If that's what you're referring to, the ability to absorb heat is a physical property of the liquid that is specific to that liquid. It is not a temporary effect.

[sirheck]

That's an interesting set-up. Is the Q6600 a SLACR GO? What's you're voltage on the cpu and what clocks are you running the Q6600 at? What clocks / voltage are the 4770's running at?

Also what are your cpu / vid card temps under 100% load stress?

Thanks.

Both of the 4770,s were overclocked as high as they could go under
ATI tool, 900/1000. I am now running a single 4890 video card
as i gave one of the 4770,s away .

Which was a mistake as the 4770,s in CF outperformed the single
4890 by a pretty good margin

I re-used the same Nano fluid after i swapped out the video cards.
Everything was clean after about 6 months of use.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=242249

[Humminn55]

I'll also ask again, are you the Main from Hardforum that was banned?

Of course he isn't, skinnee.....you know there are TONS of people from Norway that use Main as their handle.




Of course, with both exhibiting the same attitude, typing and writing style, I can understand how one could become confused. LOL!

[Sailindawg]

@SirHeck,

That's interesting. But do you realize that this thread is not about the FluidXP product?

I do like the idea of a fluid for cooling that does have the potential for biologic fouling, can be used for an extended period and has very good heat absorbing properties. I'm currently using distilled water plus Petra's PT Nuke, a cpu block, pump and a 240 rad / res combo. No separate reservoir. I like the simplicity of it, no bling, just very good and simple liquid cooling. The one draw back is pump speed. I have a D5 vario and anything higher than 3, puts a lot of air into the loop. A separate larger res would help to keep the air out of the loop at higher pumps speeds. I recently purchased one of Swiftech's MCR Drive 360 Rads. The slightly higher heat absorption capacity of the nanofluid could help a lot in a very simple loop. Simple in that there is no larger separate res and a smaller volume of liquid coolant.

So far the distilled water loop is fine. After 12 months, there's no fouling, temps are very good and the loop water is clear. Distilled is cheap and readily available where I live. I may have already found the ideal coolant.

[warriorpoet]

@SirHeck,

That's interesting. But do you realize that this thread is not about the FluidXP product?

I do like the idea of a fluid for cooling that does have the potential for biologic fouling, can be used for an extended period and has very good heat absorbing properties. I'm currently using distilled water plus Petra's PT Nuke, a cpu block, pump and a 240 rad / res combo. No separate reservoir. I like the simplicity of it, no bling, just very good and simple liquid cooling. The one draw back is pump speed. I have a D5 vario and anything higher than 3, puts a lot of air into the loop. A separate larger res would help to keep the air out of the loop at higher pumps speeds. I recently purchased one of Swiftech's MCR Drive 360 Rads. The slightly higher heat absorption capacity of the nanofluid could help a lot in a very simple loop. Simple in that there is no larger separate res and a smaller volume of liquid coolant.

So far the distilled water loop is fine. After 12 months, there's no fouling, temps are very good and the loop water is clear. Distilled is cheap and readily available where I live. I may have already found the ideal coolant.

Sounds like you need to add a little water to your loop

[Sailindawg]

Sounds like you need to add a little water to your loop

That's what I thought initially as well. The system is pretty topped with water. What seems to happen with the rad / res combo, at higher pump speeds there is a high degree of turbulence. The built in res of the rad does not have enough time to equalize the higher flow. What starts happening is lots of small bubbles start forming water starts to get aerated.

If I had a seperate res, the res would function to equalize the flow and remove some of the turbulence from the higher pump flow.

To remove bubbles from my loop, I squeeze the hose before the pump to remove bubbles. What has caught my attention with this nanofluid, is the slightly higher capacity to absorb heat than water. This coolant shows potential for a simple loop as I run.

[Jimmer411]

I honestly never thought of it because I had thought that the pumps were all sealed bearings. But, when you mentioned ceramic bearings and water being used as a lubricant I thought about the pump manufacture that is making that set-up must have taken into consideration metal particles in the water; due to tightening of fittings, micro shavings from the block that weren't cleaned out..etc etc..and, for people that just use tap water in their system, eating up the bearings. They would have had to think of a way to get past that. One easy one would be to make the bearing harder than typical metals. That is why I thought that the ceramic bearings are probably harder than the metal. But, again, I will look into that some more.

I dont think this would be any issue in a D5 from what I remember seeing on the inside of mine. The "bearing" is more of a ball on a point. It doesnt move or anything. The impeller of the D5 has an indentation that sits ontop of that ball.

I only use tap water in my system (distilled is pointless) , always have and have never had any problems with my pumps. Ive been known to use prestone antifreeze in small quanitys as well.


Are the temps posted idle temps? Id be interested in seeing some full load results, unless Im blind and missed it.

[ahmad]

I only use tap water in my system (distilled is pointless) , always have and have never had any problems with my pumps. Ive been known to use prestone antifreeze in small quanitys as well.

What...?

Distilled = non-conductive
tap water = conductive

As long as you don't have leaks its fine. You get a leak and you might not survive it.. Besides, its $4 for 10L here and I know its ion free.

[Jamesrt2004]

What...?

Distilled = non-conductive
tap water = conductive

As long as you don't have leaks its fine. You get a leak and you might not survive it.. Besides, its $4 for 10L here and I know its ion free.

see in UK tap water makes sense ass its nearly £20 for 5l

[Jimmer411]

What...?

Distilled = non-conductive
tap water = conductive

As long as you don't have leaks its fine. You get a leak and you might not survive it.. Besides, its $4 for 10L here and I know its ion free.

Distilled eventually becomes conductive and after 5 years Ive never had a leak

[QuietIce]

What...?

Distilled = non-conductive
tap water = conductive

As long as you don't have leaks its fine. You get a leak and you might not survive it.. Besides, its $4 for 10L here and I know its ion free.

The distilled you put in your loop doesn't stay neutral for long. Just a few weeks running across copper and that's gone. Whether it's calcium ions or copper ions doesn't matter. Your equation needs a slight modification to reflect use:

Distilled + copper + time = conductive


The biggest handicap to using tap water is the impurities in it - and this is different depending on where you live. At the least, most of us have to contend with slightly hard water, which will eventually leave calcium deposits throughout the loop just as it does in water pipes. Distilled also tends to be filtered better. If your tap water is virtually pristine then count yourself lucky and use all you want ...

[serialk11r]

Even very good tap water is pretty undesirable if you care at all about aesthetics. Over here in Palo Alto, we have the cleanest water in the Bay Area, which has some of the cleanest water in this country. They take Hetch Hetchy (Yosemite) water distributed to the Bay, which is already very very clean, then they do some extra filtration and treating. When I lived in San Mateo (a bit north of here, where water is supposedly "crappier"), I drank water from the tap when I was thirsty at night and man that stuff tastes great, much better than bottled water IMO lol.

I have that in my loop (even though I don't use it), and all the calcium and other minerals have collected on the tubes. It's VERY ugly. It also likes to precipitate on sinks, and it's really really hard to get off. It doesn't affect performance in a loop since it can only form very thin layers, and the minerals are pretty soft, but if you value your nice looking clear tubes then don't ruin them.

[Waterlogged]

The only reason Jimmer can get away with using tap water is the pacific northwest part of the US doesn't have the old mineral encrusted worn out infrastructure like the over populated cities most of us live in.

[ahmad]

Over time yes, but its conductivity will still be much lower, meaning fewer ppm of any given ions.

For those living in the UK, if distilled is really that expensive there is an alternative. There is this unit you can purchase you can attach anywhere in your house, it contains micro-porous filters that will stop 99% of the garbage in tap water. We used to import the filters from the UK because they are the best in their class, and we were using them for a while to get our drinking water. But because of all the garbage in the water (vancouver island) and all the copper pipes everywhere (not all places have switched to pvc or other piping/tubing) we had to change/clean the filter every 3 days. It was ridiculous!

http://www.jamesfilter.com/doulton.aspx - similar to what I am referring to

Not sure how this would work http://www.jamesfilter.com/berkeylight.aspx

Or you could just install that filter from pts shop in your loop

Sorry for the derailment

[Alexandr0s]

Wait, you're suggesting that instead of using 'expensive' distilled water for like 1 EUR/L which is replaced maybe every year, we use a 200$ filter?

Am I missing something?

Even with the biggest, baddest loop, you'd need 2-3L at most. It'd take you at least 50 year to benefit from your investment.

[ahmad]

Well.. you can share the filter

You can also use the filtered water to rinse your components and even use it for drinking!

James said it costs 20 pounds for 5 litres in the UK..

[Alexandr0s]

Wow, that's expensive. Any local grocery store will sell it for like 2EUR/L here (Netherlands) o.o

[Onoff312]

Lol for distilled water jesus christ man. It costs $1.68 at my local supermarket in Australia for a 2L bottle been using it in my loop for months wiht some biocide no issues.

Well.. you can share the filter

You can also use the filtered water to rinse your components and even use it for drinking!

James said it costs 20 pounds for 5 litres in the UK..

[mariop]

I use deionized water on my system. It is to complete level of car battery's. It costs about R$8,00 a liter (almost US$5,00!!).