** Official ** Gigabyte UD3 P45 Series -- EP45-UD3 / EP45-UD3R / EP45-UD3P

[truehighroller]

as of 2am this morning i was 7.5 hours Orthos stable @3.6ghz 1.35 vcore and 1.30 MCH and vTerm, went to bed and woke up to a pc that had rebooted on me, windows error box said there was a BSOD. looks like the BSOD happened at 7am. i'm not sure what that means for the stability of my OC, to be around 12 hours stable and then have a BSOD. normally i don't have an issue if it can pass 9 or 10 hours.

It's you memory or your north bridge. My guess is your northbridge needs a little bump in voltage. I would try say 1.38 just to be safe and see if it stops. If it doesn't then perhaps your memory needs to be tweaked setting wise.

[truehighroller]

I have a question for any one that can help. I hooked everything back up last night after finishing my water loop setup and letting it run for 24hrs with no leaks with, the motherboard installed I will add. In other words all I had to do was hook up the power supply connections, motherboard , video cards exedra. I then turned it on for the first time and checked again to make sure nothing was leaking and nothing was, went in to the BIOS and stared at the temps for awhile and the temps were at 31C about ten under what i was at with my Thermalright connected. I then went ahead and started setting my settings back to what I had them at for my 4.2GHz over clock and went in and thought about it and set my motherboard to alarm me if my CPU reached over 80c. I then went back and checked the temps again and nothing had moved still 31C. I then said ok cool, saved my settings and rebooted.

I was able to get to windows and went to open Coretemp and was going to run some Intelburntest loops and boom, blue screen. I didn't catch what the blue screen said. I figured it just needed to have the settings set one by one which I have noticed on my UD3P and when it restarted it just sat there. No BIOS screen nothing just darkness. I went ahead and tried getting the motherboard to reset itself by doing what I normally do that works which is to turn the power supply off for about five seconds while holding down the power on button and usually it will load fail safe settings and let me boot without losing my settings that I had set before the issue.

This time though that didn't work it just kept getting stuck in a reboot loop. It would turn on then shut back off then turn back on exedra. I was like , I had to take out my second graphics card to get to the Clear CMOS jumper. I shorted the Clear CMOS pin and turned the power supply off and held down the power button again . I did this for about two minutes.

That didn't do the trick it was still stuck in the reboot loop. Removed my second card to get to the battery did all that good stuff again and put battery back in and the main video card back in and still..... reboot loop. I tried leaving the battery out for about two minutes and clearing the CMOS while holding down the power button again , the whole time with the power supply turned off. I did this a couple of times. I managed to get it to boot one time and the CMOS acted like it had been cleared because I seen the start logo crap had turned itself back on. I then started fiddling with the basic settings floppy exedra and boom everything froze and I couldn't do anything, it locked up in the BIOS screen. I tried clearing everything again and still the looping issue.. Is it the motherboard? I Googled this and found where some person mind you two years ago on a different motherboard but a gigabyte one none the less, mentioned that he had changed his to alarm at 60C and he experienced the same issue as me with this motherboard last night.

The person never did follow up to say what it was he had to do to resolve the issue though, RMA exedra.. Is it my motherboard died or do I just need to clear the CMOS for allot longer to get the issue resolved? I know that it doesn't like all the GTLs settings and everything else set right away and that was my mistake but, did all this came from that or was it something to do with the alarm setting that I set? The temps were fine so... Thank you for your opinion on this one Guys. There is no water that has leaked and the temps were fine keep that in mind.

[zsamz_]

truehighroller chek that you didnt overtighten the sinks
a slight bend in pcb can do it

[truehighroller]

truehighroller chek that you didnt overtighten the sinks
a slight bend in pcb can do it

I was thinking about that one as well. I will try to losen that a little, tonight. I tightened it all the way down . Thank you very much for that one. Anything else I haven't thought about here?

[OC Nub]

After a very bad oc failure I have had my ud3p lock up in bios also. I got tired of taking the gfx card out to get to the battery so I use a large flat head screwdriver to touch the 2 pins to clear CMOS. I usually unplug it for a few minutes also. I had a similar issue and could not get any oc stable, random lockups, everything I tried failed. Started switching out hardware to try and find the problem. Nothing seemed to work, I figured I had killed the board. Took the board out and used my other ud3p and had the same thing again. Turned out to be a corrupted install, formatted and both boards work fine. May not be the same thing that's happening to you but if you have another hdd it may be worth a try.

[truehighroller]

Thank you noob. It made me so pissed after spending so... much time getting everything perfect and then boom issues out the arse.... It took me awhile.... to run all the cables just right and everything grrr. I apreciate the suggestions guys. I am just sitting here at work, thinking about it sitting there in my computer room needing to be benched . If any one else can think of anything else by all means chime in and thanks again. I don't get off work for another 3 hours and then I will be getting anti freeze in my Wifes car and then I will be eating dinner and then kissing them good ngiht and then,,, I will get to look at it again.


I am going to take out the battery and unplug the power supply and put the clear CMOS jumper on while I am doing all that fun life stuff and loosen that block up a little as well while I am at it and cross my fingers and hope it stops acting up on me. I have an RMA waiting for the motherboard if need be. My friend also has the Q6600 that I sold to him so I can try swapping my CPU with that one to make sure my CPU didn't fry as well while I am it if, the clearing of the CMOS for a couple of hours doesn't work and the loosening of the block doesn't work. God I hope one of those two help. I would hate having to take the motherboard out again.


Another thing that I didn't mention in the book I wrote at first about this issue. I took both memory sticks out and I didn't get any beeps or anything just the same exact rebooting loop issue. I thought that was kind of weird.

[Zucker2k]

Funny you guys are still meddling with clear cmos; I've never had to touch that thing for probably the last two years or so. With this board and some memories, usually, pulling one ram stick can do the trick (no not a voltage thing), but I mostly use the reset swicth; just hit it continually (like 6 times) for very tough situations like yours; that usually forces a hard reset (system shuts off completely, then powers back on) and I'm usually able to go back into bios. If you're running multiple HDs and you find yourself staring at the ICH boot screen, give it some time, usually it takes a while for the HDs to be re-detected. Sometimes, while stuck during post, pressing power-on button for about 5 seconds and forcing a shutdown can do the trick.

Generally speaking, when moving to water, you have to readjust all voltages because as watercooled chips get cooler and usually need less voltage, stuff like NB, ICH, and mosfets suffer because they no longer get secondary air from the cpu HSF. Unless you're actually cooling these, I'll recommend paying attention to those. I also strongly suspect what zsamz said.

By the way, you mean etcetera, not "exedra."

[truehighroller]

...
By the way, you mean etcetera, not "exedra."

Ok, loosened up the block, it made no difference. Cleared the CMOS for 2 1/2 hours with the battery out and the power supply unplugged completely and the power button rigged to stay on while I was running around doing life stuff, that made no difference. Took out one memory stick, made no difference. If I reset the CMOS everything goes back to stock so why wouldn't that stop an issue with voltages? Thanks for correcting my grammar . I had known about the one memory stick issue with some, of the older revs of this board and OCZ memory so I tried that and it made no difference. I honestly think the motherboard is dead at this point. I even eliminated the power button and reset button of having a short by unplugging all the case button cables and just started turning the board on with a screw driver so that isn't it either.

I am going to test another power supply which I have and then another CPU today and that will have eliminated everything at this point down to the motherboard which will then be going back to new egg so they can send me a new one. I had mentioned in some of my earlier post that I thought this board was a little flaky considering how bad the “VDrop, not Vdroop,” was on this board compared to others I have owned. I was looking at traces "etcetera " and noticed that around the CPU traces "where a screw would not, hit from me putting on the block or my old heatsink" I have funky, looking marks on the traces.


I was not able to clean them off and I didn't create these marks myself during installation and I know that for a fact because I would never hit that spot as many times as it would take to make those funky looking marks. Perhaps this board has been flawed from the get go like I said and it just finally had enough. Here is the best PIC I could get of the marks.





It looks as if the PCB had some flaw when it was made.. Bad thing is now “once I have eliminated the power supply and CPU” I will have to take the motherboard out and I am not taking the loop apart so I will have to gently get the motherboard out by going around the loop with it.

[OC Nub]

That sucks man. Is going to be a job getting the board out. When I built this wc setup I mounted everything outside the case, the rad, res and pump to make it easy to switch out hardware.

[truehighroller]

I would have done that but, I didn't want my cats or dog screwing around with the hoses . Here is what I have to get around.




Yes it does suck, bad. Good thing is that I don't have to rerun all my cables or these hoses again or fill the system back up again for that matter Thanks for all the help guys I appreciate it.

[Zucker2k]

What's your pci-e frequency set to in the bios, do you remember?

[truehighroller]

What's your pci-e frequency set to in the bios, do you remember?

Yeah it was 101 or 100 neither seem to make a difference and when I reset the BIOS that should have set it back to 100 I believe.

[andressergio]

Yeah it was 101 or 100 neither seem to make a difference and when I reset the BIOS that should have set it back to 100 I believe.

mate as Zucker2k said i never had to clear CMOS, just turn off PSU wait and back to life even on hard locks---

those look like scratches, i really dont think that can have damage as theboard has a thick resin over it, did you try to clean that part to see if those circuit tracks where affected ?

Cheers
Sergio

[truehighroller]

mate as Zucker2k said i never had to clear CMOS, just turn off PSU wait and back to life even on hard locks---

those look like scratches, i really dont think that can have damage as theboard has a thick resin over it, did you try to clean that part to see if those circuit tracks where affected ?

Cheers
Sergio

Actually if you look at the right side of the Socket right behind the LGA 775 silk screen you see what looks like maybe, paint or somehing all over the traces that iwas what I was refering to. I think the North Bridge just died to be honest. I did the whole PSU thing as well at first because that is what normal works for me as well but, phew not this time around .

[radaja]

before you rma it try firing it up outside of the case.

[truehighroller]

before you rma it try firing it up outside of the case.

That would be very~~~~~~ diffucult at this point. I could pul the pump out and elliminate it as the issue causer "as it causing a short messing with the board". I see where you are going with this though.

[Bootup05]

Could someone tell me the average FSB people are able to reach using a UD3P & a 45/65nm Quad?

I've been told the average is around 475FSB on the P45 platform, but are unaware if the UD3P can do any better than this?

I know it'll depend on my specific board, I'm just looking for a rough guess.

Thanks

[Zucker2k]

Could someone tell me the average FSB people are able to reach using a UD3P & a 45/65nm Quad?

I've been told the average is around 475FSB on the P45 platform, but are unaware if the UD3P can do any better than this?

I know it'll depend on my specific board, I'm just looking for a rough guess.

Thanks

I guess you could start by asking all with 500fsb (+/- 15) to raise their hands up. Frankly, I don't think anyone has bothered to look at the numbers, but if 500 fsb is what you're personally looking for, there's no reason you shouldn't get it; at least it wouldn't be the boards fault.

[andressergio]

Actually if you look at the right side of the Socket right behind the LGA 775 silk screen you see what looks like maybe, paint or somehing all over the traces that iwas what I was refering to. I think the North Bridge just died to be honest. I did the whole PSU thing as well at first because that is what normal works for me as well but, phew not this time around .

yes i was looking to that mate, agree with radaja take it out, i know is a pita but maybe tracks are good and thats just a small scratch, or RMA it

[andressergio]

Could someone tell me the average FSB people are able to reach using a UD3P & a 45/65nm Quad?

I've been told the average is around 475FSB on the P45 platform, but are unaware if the UD3P can do any better than this?

I know it'll depend on my specific board, I'm just looking for a rough guess.

Thanks

UD3P = P45 rev A3 best around 500 fsb here for 24/7 benched till 545 on single loop shared with GTX285

lots of p45 are A2 wich tops out around that, some where lucky and did a bit more.

Cheers
Sergio

[truehighroller]

yes i was looking to that mate, agree with radaja take it out, i know is a pita but maybe tracks are good and thats just a small scratch, or RMA it

Ok well I thought about it more and I will have to take it out at this point any way so, I guess technically it will just take me ten minutes more to test it out side the case any way. I hooked up my other power supply to it today and it did the same thing. I got all Macgyver on it and shorted the pins on my main Power Supply so I wouldn't have to take all those cables off of the hard drives etcetera and just used my other one to plug in to the 24 pin and the 8 pin connectors on the motherboard.

I will start getting the motherboard out tonight and might test it tonight as well out side the case. Then the only thing left is to test the CPU and I'm done with this POS . Hopefully they send me the best damn Motherboard out there for these series if the other test don't work tonight / tomorrow that is .

[radaja]

IM BACKi got my new board and with my e8400 and WCing with an airconditioner
temps are awesome.
i did a quick install today and threw in my E8400 (recently returned from vacation) and used the same settings as before,and everything worked
great.but look at the temps on the cpu.my temp sensors are stuck at 27c and 29c and wont go lower.just a quick run.but i cant wait to see how high
i can take it now that im on water

9x500@4500 ddr1200.
10 min

30 min

stop

[phsinc1]

Guys I need help tweaking my CPU Ref, I'm using Q9550/UD3R, I tried different ref .760,.785,.800 and all passed prime95 fine so I'm not sure which settings I should leave, I feel .800 makes the system more responsive. here is my current settings:



LLC Disabled

[The Viper]

Wow Radaja,amazing results!

Heh does anyone know what are the maximum temps you want on the NB, I have MCHTemp installed and just wandering what to keep temps to.

[truehighroller]

Ok, this is was what it came down to being after all that,




I switched to my old thermalright bracket and now it is working. I think that they should say to push down in the middle on the sticky pad real good so it doesn't short things out right under the CPU.. It had to have been that because I put in my old heatsink and it worked just fine. Then I thought about that sticky pad on the swiftech bracket and pondered so I went ahead and used the Thermalrights bracket instead which has the middle part cut out so it doesn't touch the solder right under the CPU and now it is working again. I dropped a raid drive though so, I am reinstalling Windows right now. That's ok though its working again so I'm happy. Thanks for the advise guys. I will post my results later.